viper 5902 in 1999 ford explorer

I am installing a Viper 5902 in my 1999 Explorer XLT 4D and am thoroughly confused. I have installed systems before in the past but it has been years since. I have gotten several "wiring diagrams" from different placed on the web that have all varied which is kinda the reason I am confused. I have tried connecting everything to the best of my understanding but the only thing I can get the system to do is set off the "panic" and get the interior vehicle temp! So any help in the with this will be greatly appreciated!

-------------
NExtelmike

A few thoughts :

Your Explorer requires a transponder bypass for the remote start to work.  What
bypass module did you use / install?

Look up DEI Tech Tip 1076 for the proper door pin wiring for the Viper alarm.

It would be a great help if you listed each of the Viper harnesses and the actual
connections to the Explorer.

As always, the wiring guides and just that, only guides.  It is necessary to
locate and verify each wire with a Digital Multi Meter prior to making any
connections.

-------------
Soldering is fun!

Hello kreg357,

I have used DEI's 555P Bypass Module I didnt really want to give up a key. This is how i have everything connected at the moment and it has me completely stumped. I know the Explorer has 2 stage unlocking but i dont really care about keeping that feature.


Remote Start Heavy Gauge Connector (10Pin)    
# Comments  Viper        Explorer
H3/1 (+) Inginition 1 INPUT/OUTPUT     Pink  Ignition Harness (Lt. GREEN/ Purple       

H3/2 Fused 30amp Ingnition 2 / Flex Relay input 87     RED / White      12 volt Constant

H3/3 (+) Accessory Output Orange        Ignition Harness (BLACK/ Lt green)

H3/4 (+) Starter Output (Car side of starter kill)  Violet  Cut RED / Lt Blue. Violet to Starter Side

H3/5 (+) Starter Input (Key side of starter kill) Green Cut RED / Lt Blue. Green Key Side

H3/6 (+) Fused 30amp Ignition 1 Input (12V battery)        Red 12 volt Constant

H3/7 (+) 30/Flex Relay Output    Pink/White    Not Used    

H3/8 (+) Flex Relay Input 87A      Pink/Black    Not Used

H3/9 (+) Fused 30amp Accesory/Starter Input RED / Black    Drk. Blue/Lt. Green

H3/10 NO CONNECTION      NONE  NONE
       
Main Harness Connector (12 Pin)    
# CommentsViper      Explorer
H1/1 (-) 200 mA AUX/Trunk  RED / White   Not used
H1/2 (+) 12VDC        RED      Yellow 12V
H1/3 Siren Output Brown   Red wire from Siren
H1/4 Parking Light Issolation Wire      WHITE/ Brown  ?????
H1/5 Chassis Ground  Black    Grounded
H1/6 (+) Door Trigger Input   VioletBLACK/ Lt. Blue @ driver kick panel
H1/7 (-) Trunk Pin/ Instant Trigger        Blue       Not Used
H1/8 (-) Door Trigger  Green   Not Used
H1/9 (-) 200mA Dome Light Supervision Output  BLACK/ White Connected to pin (85) of relay with 12V at pins 86 & 87 and Black and Lt. Blue from drivers kick panel @ pin 30
H1/10 Remote Start/ Turbo Timer Activation input  WHITE/ BLue  Not used
H1/11 Parking Light Output     WhiteWHITE/ BLack @ headlight Switch

Door Lock (3 Pin)     
# Comments Viper     Explorer
1 (-) 500mA Unlock Output        Blue Pink/Lt Green
2 Empty     
3 (-) 500mA Lock Output        Green    Pink / YELLOW
    
Auxilary/Shutdown/Trigger Harness (18 Pin)    
# Comments Viper        Explorer
H2/1 (-) 200mA OEM Factory Alarm Disarm Output        Lt. GREEN/ Black Drk GREEN/ Purple @ Drivers kick Panel

H2/2 (-) Aux 4 Output      ORANGE / Black Not used
H2/3 (-) 200mA OEM Alarm arm Output GREEN / WHITE Not Used
H2/4 (-) 200mA Aux 2 Output Violet/Black Not Used
H2/5 (-) 200mA Aux 3 Output WHITE/ Black   Not Used
H2/6 (-) 200mA Aux 1 Output WHITE/ Violet RED / White on 530T window Module

H2/7 (-) Diesel Wait to Start Grey/Black     Not Used
H2/8 (-) 200mA Horn Honk Output   BROWN / Black        Yellow/Lt.Green @ Steering Harness

H2/9 Tach Input Violet/White  Tan / YELLOW @ pin 48 on PCM

H2/10 (-) 200mA Status Output  Dark BLueBlue on 555P Bypass Module
H2/11 (-) 200mA Flex Relay Control Output        Pink/White Not Used
H2/12 (-) 200mA Accessory Output        Orange Not Used
H2/13 (-) 200mA Starter Output  Purple Not Used
H2/14 (-) 200mA Ignition 1 Output Pink     Not Used
H2/15 (-) Hood Pin Input (N/C or N/O)      Grey   Conn to Hood Pin
H2/16 (-) 200 mA 2nd status/ Rear Defogger      Blue/White??????
H2/17 (+) Brake Shutdown Input  Brown Green @ Brake Pedal
H2/18 (-) Neutral Safety Input BLACK/ White Grounded


-------------
NExtelmike

H3/2, H3/6, and H3/9 all to 12 volt constant.  Yellow Wire according to Bulldog.

You might have a 2nd accessory BLACK/ Light Green, if so connect H3/7 to it.  H3/3 to Gray / YELLOW.

Test and verify all wires with a digital MiltiMeter

https://www.bulldogsecurity.com/bdnew/vehiclewiringdiagrams.asp

-------------
When all else fails, Read the Instructions
Support the12volt.com Make a Donation

What Mr Smoke says and...

H1/4 is not used for your application.  Make sure the Vipers Parking Light
Fuse/Jumper is in the (+) position.

You could set the Viper to control your Rear Defroster using the H2/16 output
and some option programming.  Here is the info from Omega :
    Rear Defrost  Dark BLUE/ORANGE (-)     AT REAR WINDOW DEFOGGER SWITCH
Not sure if it's just a pulse or a latch.  Test to find out.

While the directions are a bit vague, here are the connections for your 555PW bypass :
1 Red        constant +12V + battery
2 Black        chassis ground
3 Blue (-)              Viper (-)200mA Status Output
4 Green      not used
5 Yellow/Black    immobilizer data Pin 3 Grey/Orange
6 Yellow   not used
7 Brown      immobilizer sync Pin 4 WHITE/ Green
8 Pink      ignition (car side) **cut Pin 2 (usually BLACK/ White or Blue)
9 Pink/White       ignition (key side) **cut Pin 2 (usually BLACK/ White or Blue)
10 Orange          not used

The PATS transponder connector is about 8 inches down the steering column from the
ignition switch.  Look for a  white 4 Pin connector with WHITE/ Green at Pin 4 and
Grey/Orange at Pin 3.

-------------
Soldering is fun!

Thanks for all the help and taking the time to respond.. Thank you Kreg357 for the Bypass configuration I pretty much had that one figured out it was pretty easy. I have tried the configuration according to what Smokeman1 stated and according to the bulldog website and that configration does not work, when the battery is reconnected the brain goes haywire and tries to start the truck and wont stop until the power is completely disconnected. I also thought i had the OEM alarm disarm wire found but apparently not and i cant seem to find it there are several Drk GREEN/ Purple wire and none of them show any power when unlock is pressed.. so i am still where i was yesterday...I mean i cant even get the locks to work the light to light or flash nothing only the Temp in the truck and Panic work..... i am soooo frustrated...

-------------
NExtelmike

That trying to remote start when power is first applied might be normal for a Viper.
Maybe a heavy-duty Viper installer can clarify this on a 5902.

H3/1 PINK (+) IGNITION 1          GREEN/ Purple @ Main Ignition connector
H3/2 RED / WHITE (+) FUSED (30A)        Yellow @ Main Ignition connector
H3/3 ORANGE (+) ACC OUTPUT          Gray / YELLOW @ Main Ignition connector
H3/4 VIOLET (+) STARTER OUTPUT (CAR SIDE)       RED / Light Blue @ Main Ignition connector   \   cut
H3/5 GREEN (+) STARTER INPUT (KEY SIDE)           RED / Light Blue @ Main Ignition connector   /   cut
H3/6 RED (+) FUSED (30A)       Yellow @ Main Ignition connector
H3/7 PINK/WHITE (+) FLEX RELAY OUT         BLACK/ Green @ Main Ignition connector ***
H3/8 PINK/BLACK (+) FLEX RELAY 87A           Not Used
H3/9 RED / BLACK (+) FUSED (30A)      Yellow @ Main Ignition connector
H3/10 NC (no connection)         Not Used

*** Set Viper Flex Relay to ACC2.  Menu 3, Item 8, Option 2

To locate the correct Disarm wire ( and the Lock & Unlock wires ), use this method:
DMM set to 20V DC, Red lead to +12V constant, Black lead to suspect wire.  When the
correct wire is pulsed, the DMM will go to +12V.  In the case of the Disarm wire, try
using the key in the door to unlock and watch the DMM for the +12V pulse.  Might have
to use the passenger door cylinder or the Factory Remote.  Try to find the harness
as it comes into the kick panel from the door.  Just be glad you don't have a GEM
module to deal with. 

 

-------------
Soldering is fun!

Okay.... soooo I have hooked H/3 harness as listed above and anytime the H3/9 is connected to constant 12V the starter engages and wont stop trying to start the truck, but none of the dash lights come on like the when you would have the key in the "on" or "run" position it just tries to start. Also now i can hear the door locks in the Brain "clicking" but nothing happens until the lock or unlock buttons are pressed on the door then the doors lock or unlock depending on the button pressed but it doesnt stop it just keeps going.. Thank you for the method to find the OEM alarm disarm wire i believe i have found it.. but still no parking light or lights flashing and i have also lost the communication to the remote all it says now is "out of range" and wont do anything. The remote displays a unshaded lock and every now and then will flash "valet" but i can't get the control button to respond to anything to (i guess) disable valet mode it just has a faint blue glow that is one steady...i know this isnt rocket science i have never had this much trouble before... Thank you again for taking the time to assist me i have posted in other forums and no one ever replies so thank you....

-------------
NExtelmike

If it starts cranking right away, are you able to step on the brake to disengage the remote start action? Shouldn't start if the hood pin is installed and working properly.    Just asking not trying to be insulting, have you used a DMM to check and verify the wires at the ignition? 

Is the 5902 new or used?  Maybe a relay is stuck in the brain causing the cranking.

https://www.the12volt.com/installbay/forum_posts.asp?tid=124311&KW=smokeman1

Link to some info on doing my sisters 2003 explorer

-------------
When all else fails, Read the Instructions
Support the12volt.com Make a Donation

I have tried hitting the brake pedel after connecting H3/9 and it continues to crank the starter... no insult taken i have verified the Ignition wires.. the 5902 is brand new i was thinking the same thing about a relay being stuck in the brain but it only does it randomly meaning when it starts i unhooked H1/2 from 12V and waited a min or so and reconnected it and it had stopped but like 5 mins later out of no where it started again i had not touched anything as i was on the phone at the time..i will check out the link you provided... i have done couple of these in the past but its been a while but none have been this frustrating...

-------------
NExtelmike

That is pretty odd. I'm leaning toward a bum unit. Without a second one to try and see if the same results occur I am out of ideas.

-------------
When all else fails, Read the Instructions
Support the12volt.com Make a Donation

i still think i have or dont have something connected right. i had everything except the remote start working on thursday of last week and i unhooked it to run the wire to their "permanent" homes and it has not worked since so i think i am missing something just dont know what it is... i dont think its a burnt unit because everything is connected with the battery disconnected... grrrr lol i wish i knew what i am doing wrong.. But thanks for your help though Smokeman1!

-------------
NExtelmike

If you disconnect the starter output wire H3/4 Violet does it show 12volts on it??

Maybe time to step back and recheck all of the wiring with the DMM.

-------------
When all else fails, Read the Instructions
Support the12volt.com Make a Donation

Without H3/6 hooked up H3/4 has steady 12V when i connect H3/6 the brain starts clicking like crazy and H3/4 has flickering 12V...

-------------
NExtelmike

H3/4 should not have any voltage on it until the remote start is activated.  I just bench tested a Pyton 872 to confirm this. Wiring for this is the same as your 5902.  With H3/2, H3/6, and H3/9, connected to 12 volt source, no voltage on the Violet starter output wire.

-------------
When all else fails, Read the Instructions
Support the12volt.com Make a Donation

So what does that mean? Do i not have something grounded somewhere? How do i fix this?

-------------
NExtelmike

This is the issue i am having now is if H3/1 (pink) is not connected to 12V H3/4 has pulsed 12V which continues to crank the starter... on a positive note i got the parking lights to work but still no door locks or anything from the command center... i really appreciate your help Smokeman1

-------------
NExtelmike

Pink H3/1 should NOT be connected to a 12 volt source, it gets connected to the ignition 1 wire on the car.

I am thinking you have some wires crossed.

-------------
When all else fails, Read the Instructions
Support the12volt.com Make a Donation

12 Volt constant Yellow on Explorer         Red, RED / White, and RED / Black H3/2-H3/6-H3/9 

Ignition 1 Light GREEN/ Purple    Pink  H3/1

Accessory    Gray / YELLOW         Orange H3/3

Starter wire Cut  RED / Light Blue         Green to H3/5 to Key side of cut wire,  Violet H3/4 to starter side of cut wire

Ignition 2        BLACK/ Light Green          Pink/White  H3/7

From your last comment pink not connected to 12 volts tells me you have connected the wires incorrectly.  You need to verify the wires with a DMM

-------------
When all else fails, Read the Instructions
Support the12volt.com Make a Donation

Times 2 with the Smokeman.  Verify and test everything.     Below from earlier post..........

H3/1 PINK (+) IGNITION 1         GREEN/ Purple @ Main Ignition connector
H3/2 RED / WHITE (+) FUSED (30A)                     Yellow @ Main Ignition connector
H3/3 ORANGE (+) ACC OUTPUT           Gray / YELLOW @ Main Ignition connector
H3/4 VIOLET (+) STARTER OUTPUT (CAR SIDE)    RED / Light Blue @ Main Ignition connector \ cut
H3/5 GREEN (+) STARTER INPUT (KEY SIDE)    RED / Light Blue @ Main Ignition connector / cut
H3/6 RED (+) FUSED (30A)      Yellow @ Main Ignition connector
H3/7 PINK/WHITE (+) FLEX RELAY OUT   BLACK/ Green @ Main Ignition connector *** Set for ACC2
H3/8 PINK/BLACK (+) FLEX RELAY 87A   Not Used
H3/9 RED / BLACK (+) FUSED (30A)       Yellow @ Main Ignition connector
H3/10 NC (no connection) Not Used

-------------
Soldering is fun!

Thank you guys for all the help i am slowly getting this thing figured out its hard when i have to drive this vehicle everyday.. but okay i have connected H3 as listed above but still no remote start... i think its because i have to change the setting from manual trans to auto... but i get no status LED on the valet switch to change anything and no flashing from it on lock or unlock so that is confusing.. I have the lock and unlock working with siren chirps the 530T works as it is supposed to minus the drivers window i have to figure out how to interface with the relay on the truck for the "one-touch" drivers window down..UGH I have no clue how to do that i know where the relay is tho.. i also have constant 12V @ H1/11 for the parking lights so when it is connected to the parking lights on the truck they just come on and stay on...no flash just constant..the fuse it set to (+) on the brain.. do the jumpers on the back of the brain have anything to do with anything (vertical or horizontal) there are two of them and are for something D2D??    You guys have been a HUGE help with this i just want to say thank you again!!

-------------
NExtelmike

1. When you try to remote start, do you get any clicking from the brain or flashes from the parking lights? Is so How many flashes from the parking lights?

2. What exact place or wire did you connect H1/11 to on the vehicle??

3. What brand of bypass are you useing if needed?

-------------
When all else fails, Read the Instructions
Support the12volt.com Make a Donation

Is anything connected to H1/4?  It is not used in your application.  Just insulate the end of the wire.

Think I would connect the Viper Tach Input, Violet/White, to a good tach source and do a Tach Learn.  Ensure you are programmed for Auto Trans, then try a remote start.  Might have to program the Viper to Tach Mode, also.

-------------
Soldering is fun!

Smokeman1 when I press the remote start button i get nothing from the Brain no clicking no lights flashing nothing...H1/11 is not connected to anything at the moment because it has constant 12V (causes parking lights to stay on constant 24/7) unless the truck is running with the key but i had it connected to the WHITE/ black wire at the headlight switch which is the parking light wire... the Bypass i am using is DEI's 555P for Fords..

Kreg357 no H1/4 is not connect to anything i have it tied up because it is not used...i have the Tach wire connected to a Tach source which is pin 48 @ PCM and the wire is tan / YELLOW... i have tried to program for auto trans but i am unable to do so because i have not response from the command center (it does nothing no LED when armed or unarmed) valet mode the LED should stay on but it wont come on at all..   

Do either of y'all know how to interface the 530T with the onboard relay in the truck for driver's "one-touch" down feature? I have the passenger window working correctly but the drivers window has nothing until the 530T is interfaced with the on board relay....i know the location of the relay just not sure which pins to connect what too...

-------------
NExtelmike

Wouldn't worry about the 530t at this point.  What does your remote tell you after you try to remote start. Possibly your remote is not paired to the starter brain.

If you meter the H1/11 it is showing 12 volts?!   I think you have a defective unit.

-------------
When all else fails, Read the Instructions
Support the12volt.com Make a Donation

Hey guys, sorry I haven't replied and updated y'all my internet has been down but is back now ovb.. I want to say THANKS again ya'll have been awesome there is no way i could have figured this out without ya'all.. okay so i ended up buying another unit i bought the 5704 and bought the xpresskit bypass (much easier to use than the one i had) and have it hooked up and i have the remote start working, doors lock and unlock, lights flash and siren emits chirps.. but i cant not seem to find the OEM alarm disarm wire the wiring diagram i have says it's (darkGREEN/ purple) in the drivers kick panel but there are several of those there i am not sure which one to use they all have very low voltage during unlock and lock but it does not disable the OEM alarm.. so i am still having to use both factory and viper remotes UGH.. and I am not sure how to get the dome lights to come on with unlock either unless i use the factory remote..i have tried connecting the Dome light supervision wire H2/7 to the dome light wire (BLACK/ light blue) in the explorer but it doesn't work... I also still am unable to figure out the 530T i have the passenger window working like its supposed to but i dont know how to connect to the relay of the drivers window to bypass the factory "one-touch down" right now it wont do anything the factory relay just clicks.. I am slowly getting this thing put in.. Thanks to y'alls help!!

-------------
NExtelmike

Okay I have everything working except the dome light supervision H2/7 BLACK / YELLOW i think i have to use a relay but i am not sure how to wire it!? Can you please help???

-------------
NExtelmike