viper 5701
Printed From: the12volt.com
Forum Name: Car Security and Convenience
Forum Discription: Car Alarms, Keyless Entries, Remote Starters, Immobilizer Bypasses, Sensors, Door Locks, Window Modules, Heated Mirrors, Heated Seats, etc.
URL: https://www.the12volt.com/installbay/forum_posts.asp?tid=131913
Printed Date: June 18, 2025 at 8:50 AM
Topic: viper 5701
Posted By: hybridamp
Subject: viper 5701
Date Posted: July 30, 2012 at 10:25 AM
I've installed several 5900's, with the satellite relay pack, into my previous vehicles with no problems at all. Actually, I found the install manual to be easy and straight forward.
As for the 5701, the on-board flex relay wiring has me a little confused.
I have a simple configuration: 1 Ignition, 1 Starter, and 1 Accessory, so what heavy gauge wires connect to which circuits?
Here is what I believe I have figured out:
Starter
Input - ?
Key side - Green
Car side - Violet
Ignition
Input - ?
Output - Pink
Accessory
Input - ?
Output - Orange
Replies:
Posted By: kreg357
Date Posted: July 30, 2012 at 11:56 AM
Starter
Input - ? H3/9
Key side - Green
Car side - Violet
Ignition
Input - ? H3/6
Output - Pink
Accessory
Input - ? H3/9
Output - Orange
H3/2 is power input for flex relay, with H3/7 as output. ------------- Soldering is fun!
Posted By: hybridamp
Date Posted: July 30, 2012 at 12:01 PM
Thanks! Already started soldering the low voltage connections, how shops can do these installs in a few hours I have no idea; I guess it comes with experience.
Posted By: hybridamp
Date Posted: July 30, 2012 at 12:03 PM
low current I mean't; heat is getting to me, very much need an insulated garage.
Posted By: smokeman1
Date Posted: July 30, 2012 at 12:44 PM
Connect the RED / White, Red, and RED / Black from the heavy gauge harness to the vehicles constant 12 volt source.
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Posted By: hybridamp
Date Posted: July 30, 2012 at 8:19 PM
smokeman1 wrote:
Connect the RED / White, Red, and RED / Black from the heavy gauge harness to the vehicles constant 12 volt source.
Ok, and I got the outputs correct also in regards to colors? Thanks for your help by the way, couldn't figure why the first reply had the same input wire.
I got all my low current wires soldered today except for the tech because I'm going to have to pull my instrument cluster. A few wire colors were reversed from the info I found here (must just be my specific model) which took me a while to figure out.
Posted By: smokeman1
Date Posted: July 30, 2012 at 9:01 PM
What year make and model Vehicle are you working on?
-------------
When all else fails, Read the Instructions
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Posted By: hybridamp
Date Posted: July 31, 2012 at 8:14 AM
03 Nissan Frontier XE-V6, factory keyless entry with no factory alarm.
1st and 2nd Starter were combined in the harness for some reason, makes it easier for me I suppose.
My door triggers (w/ factory dome light delay) were green w/red (drivers door) and red w/black (other 3 doors) instead of what was listed on the color code sheet; diode isolated of course.
My smart entry module wasn't where listed either, instead it was to the right of the steering column directly before the ECM; not above the hood cable in the driver's kick panel as listed. Tested a ton of wires in that location first before hitting the keyless entry and listening for the relays clicking. I guess I should have checked a second source of info first as bulldog had its location listed correctly.
Posted By: hybridamp
Date Posted: July 31, 2012 at 10:35 AM
Don't think the tach wire color code is right neither now that I have the instrument cluster out; what is the method for testing tach with multimeter?
Posted By: howie ll
Date Posted: July 31, 2012 at 11:45 AM
Don't worry some vehicles take data from the engine management to the inst. panel to provide tach and other functions.
Engine management if you can find a list of pin-outs.
Or injectors or coil packs.
On the injectors you will have two wires going to each injector. One wire has a common colour to each, use any of the other uncommon.
To confirm take a DMM, set to 20VAC and place black probe to ground, red to the suspect wire.
With the engine running you should get a reading of 3-5VAC, increasing slightly as you raise the revs.
As a side issue, inst. panel out might give you enough space to mount the brain behind and bring t5he cables down to the different locations, a nice, safe stealthy install.
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Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.
Posted By: hybridamp
Date Posted: July 31, 2012 at 12:46 PM
Cool, thanks for the help, going to start metering out wires now. Tested it using the "virtual tach" and all my wiring so far works great, started right up, all triggers and sensors working beautifully. :) Originally planned to install under the automatic shifter in the center console, but behind the instrument cluster is a great idea also, may have to try and fit it back there.
Posted By: hybridamp
Date Posted: July 31, 2012 at 3:16 PM
Alright; finally done. I went with a stinger external shock sensor since I didn't like the way the on-board sensor performed; maybe it is just me being picky.
Also, is it normal for the brain to get warm after 24min remote start run-time? I never felt one that I previously installed, but this one I did a full run-time test with and happened to put my hand on it to move it for final mounting and noticed it was little warm along with the wiring connector...
Posted By: hybridamp
Date Posted: July 31, 2012 at 8:21 PM
^ I'll start a new thread since it is a new issue.
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