Printer Friendly Forum Posts - 2012 infiniti g37x, viper 5501

I was able to find the wire colors from https://www.bulldogsecurity.com, but will meter everything before making the connections. I have a Viper 5501 that will be going into my car. That being said I have a few questions...
Bulldogsecurity says that Ignition 1 requires a positive trigger and ignition 2 requires a negative trigger. The Viper installation manual says "Ignition 1" is a negative trigger and "Ignition 2" is a positive trigger. Does it matter if I hook up "ignition 2" from the Viper to "ignition 1" of the car and "Ignition 1" from the Viper to "ignition 2" of the car? The Viper signals both ignition 1 and ignition 2 at the same time during the remote start process, right?

Thanks!

You didn't mention anything about a transponder bypass module. The easiest way
to do this car is with the Fortin EVO-ALL ( or EVO-CAN ) module. It will eliminate
many wires and connections at the BCM. You could re-flash the EVO-ALL with the D2D
( DBI ) firmware for a D2D connection to the Viper but going W2W with the factory
flashed firmware will work well, too. Here is a link to the Fortin EVO-ALL install
guide ( see Connection 5 ) : https://ifar.ca/download/4211/preview.html

The Fortin install guide shows all the necessary connections except Parking Lights,
Horn ( if desired ) and the Viper's required Neutral Safety input.

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Sorry about that...already have an xpresskit db-all.

Thanks

My apologies are in order, too. Don't even look at the EVO-ALL install guide,
it will depress you when you compare it to the DB-ALL install wiring. posted_image

The DB-ALL must be flashed ( via XKLoader2 ) with the correct ( 401.NISS03 v2.00 )
firmware. Follow the Type 1 install diagram. It lists all the necessary connections.

You will need these Viper outputs for the ignition, as shown on Page 5 of the install guide :
Ignition 1 (+)             H3/1 Pink    Thick wire
Starter (+)      H3/4 Violet   Thick wire
Starter (-)     Violet (-) 200mA Starter Output - Thin wire
Ignition (-)    Pink (-) 200mA Ignition 1 Output - Thin wire
Accessory 1 (+)        H3/3 Orange    Thick wire
Accessory 2 (+)        H3/6 Pink/White   Thick wire    ***Programmed for ACC2
   (if necessary for A/C operation during R/S)

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Soldering is fun!

Thanks! Thats kinda how I thought, but just wanted to make sure.

I hate to revive this from the dead, but I have everything hooked up and have two issues.

1) Door UNLOCK and trunk pop is delayed by about 5 seconds, but LOCK is instant. When the doors do unlock, the disarm is working.
2) After I try to remote start the car from the Viper remote, the start instantly fails and says REMOTE START ERROR and flashes the parking lights 8 times. I looked in the shut down diagnostics section and it says this is because neutral safety shut down. I am using the XpressKit DB-ALL, the other functions (unlock, lock, factory arm/disarm, trunk, headlights, ignition status) work...Shouldn't the DB-ALL communicate the Neutral Safety Switch position to the Viper 5501 over D2D or do I have to plug in the neutral safety wire to the Viper brain and ground the wire?

Thanks All!

You need to plug in the NSS switch. A few years back they changed them. There is no need to ground the switch, just plug it in and set it correctly.

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Kevin Pierson

The NSS switch is plugged in and "On". I'll unplug the wired neutral safety switch and try it again.

Thanks!

Still nothing. No matter what I do, I get an error on the remote after starting and 8 parking light flashes. Even with the dball disconnected. Any ideas anyone? The viper was a factory refurbished from eBay, so having a hosed brain is not out of the question.

Verify that the Vipers' BLACK/ WHITE (-) NEUTRAL SAFETY SWITCH INPUT wire is connected to a good
chassis ground source.

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Soldering is fun!

on new vipers there is a neutral safety wire AND a switch that needs to be plugged in to the brain and the wire needs to be grounded. im not using the same bypass on my frontier but there is still a small delay when it locks and unlocks, nowhere near 5 seconds but there is a delay. maybe you need to have a hardwired connection to the lock wires of the car instead of using them through the bypass, this should get rid of any delay.

if you still have problems with your neutral safety then you might need to delete your keypad from the brain and then re-sync them to the alarm. i know it sounds strange but i was having the same problem with my viper 5901 when i installed it, i would get the neutral safety error code even though everything was wired right and that is all i had to do to get it to work.

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I've tried hooking it up with the following combinations:

NSS plugged in, NSS wire grounded and the DB-ALL connected.
NSS plugged in, NSS wire not connected and DB-ALL connected.
NSS unplugged, NSS wire grounded and DB-ALL connected.
NSS plugged in, NSS wire grounded and DB-ALL disconnected.

I'll try to re-pair the remotes and see if that takes care of it. Thanks soundnsecurity!

I deleted all remotes, repaired my remote.
Still bitching about NSS.

Reset all features to default.
I got error code 7 about being in manual mode.
Changed trans mode to automatic.
Complained about NSS again.

I don't know what you all think, but I think its time for a brand new brain NOT from eBay. Thoughts?

Are you sure that the brain is set to automatic?

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That is another problem I've been having with this brain...automatic transmission mode not sticking. I'll set it, turn ignition on to cancel the programming sequence, turn ignition off and then try to remote start it with errors. Go back into the programming menu and the transmission mode is changed back to manual. Would something else have to be done with the NSS if it was in manual mode?

Are you getting to the correct menu? Turn ignition on then Off, Press and HOLD the valet button until you get three hork honks that indicate you are in Menu 3. Release the button then press it once and release, then press and hold.Should get one horn honk for item One. Use the remote lock button to cycle through the options for the that item. It sould only cycle through Option One and option Two. You should get two horn honks for automatic, One honk is manual. When you have it set to Automatic wait 30 seconds for the Viper unit to exit the programing menu.

It can be a tricky sequence to get right, but keep trying.

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Yea, I'm positive I'm in the right menu. Those are the exact same steps I've followed. I'll try your suggestion and wait for the Viper to time out instead of turning the ignition on and then off to exit the programming sequence. Thanks!

No difference. Are there any other features or options I could turn off just to get the damn thing to at least initiate the start sequence?

Wow...re-read over the installation diagram and found out that I had the NSS wire in the wrong pin on the Viper. I'm not sure why, but the plug thats in the 18 pin plug on the unit lists Pin 1, 2, 17 and 18, however, it must be from a different unit as the pin outs do not match the unit. Glad I caught this before giving in and buying a new unit.

Thanks again everyone...now I feel dumb.

you shouldnt feel dumb and im actually impressed that you caught that mix up. my next suggestion would have been to cut the switch off and hardwire the connection thinking the switch might be bad but i guess you have it figured out.

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I did try cutting off the toggle switch and hooking up a different toggle switch. That didn't do it and then I remembered that when I had it hooked up in my car, the ignition was pulsed whenever I locked the car. After looking at the wire diagram the correct way it made sense...I had a wire in what I thought was the Ignition 1 (-) spot on the harness and it turned out to be in the OEM Alarm Arm position. The wire was hooked up to the Ignition 1 (-) on the car. Oops, at least the polarities were the same. Thanks again everyone!

Everything is in (finally) and working...except for one minor annoyance. When I remote start and get in to take the vehicle over, as soon as I press the brake the car dies and I have to start it again. In my last car (2011 Altima with push to start), I was able to remote start, get in and put my foot on the brake and the car would light up "ACC", then "ON" and I could drive away. Am I missing something in the configuration or what here? Thanks all!

Maybe, you should enter the vehicle ( with the KeyFOB ), the START button should start blinking, then press the START button twice and then depress the brake pedal.

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Tried that, start button doesn't blink, the take over works, but leaves the red security light on even after driving off.

Not a big DEI bypass user ( mainly iDatalink ) but..
Did you use the DB-ALL Type 1 install diagram and cut the Security Light wire and connect the DB-ALL
wires from Pin 10 & 11 of the 14 Pin Plug?

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Soldering is fun!