positive terminal smokin hot
Printed From: the12volt.com
Forum Name: Car Security and Convenience
Forum Discription: Car Alarms, Keyless Entries, Remote Starters, Immobilizer Bypasses, Sensors, Door Locks, Window Modules, Heated Mirrors, Heated Seats, etc.
URL: https://www.the12volt.com/installbay/forum_posts.asp?tid=131977
Printed Date: May 17, 2024 at 9:34 AM
Topic: positive terminal smokin hot
Posted By: dougielv
Subject: positive terminal smokin hot
Date Posted: August 08, 2012 at 8:22 PM
I have a 2005 nissan titan.I have noticed the positive terminal gets so hot it melted the protective cover.It gets so hot you cant even touch it.There are no charging issues.
Replies:
Posted By: i am an idiot
Date Posted: August 08, 2012 at 9:26 PM
Resistance = Heat. Wire too small, or loose connection at the battery. I can only assume that the problem is at the battery.
Posted By: dougielv
Date Posted: August 09, 2012 at 10:02 PM
All connections are tight,on the titan the post splits,only one side is hot.450 degrees,other side 160
Posted By: howie ll
Date Posted: August 10, 2012 at 1:26 AM
Are you running any aftermarket amps or other added high power consumers?
Also your last post seems physically impossible if the two sides are joined, conductivity transfer.
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Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.
Posted By: oldspark
Date Posted: August 10, 2012 at 2:08 AM
The terminals may be tight, but are they clean?
Take both off and rub with steel wool or fine sand/emery paper etc where the terminals contact the battery posts.
Note - negative always disconnected when working on the +ve!
Posted By: dougielv
Date Posted: August 10, 2012 at 5:23 PM
yes its a brand new battery.On the post there are two fuseable links,only one is hot.And yes I do have hifonics zeus amp,and a 4 farad cap.It is still hot even when disconected
Posted By: oldspark
Date Posted: August 10, 2012 at 5:44 PM
Obviously that circuit is the problem.
If that flink powers the audio & cap, it may be that your cap is faulty, but you'd be better of with a 2nd battery in its place and use a normal automated battery isolator circuit. That's assuming it is a high-power amp and that you have appropriate wiring (eg, the Big-3 etc).
Otherwise is your amp on? But that suggests an undersized flink and cabling.
But no matter what, assuming all contacts are clean, then as IAAI wrote, the wiring is too small for the load. That means the "distribution" including flnks, terminals, cables etc.
So unless there is a fault, you need to fit appropriately side distribution.
And the flink or fuse etc should be rated so it normally caries no more than ~70-80% of its rated current. (And the cable shall not be rated lower than the fuse.)
Fuses running near there rated current are usually too hot to touch.
Posted By: howie ll
Date Posted: August 11, 2012 at 2:27 AM
X 2 with Oldie, I've been meaning to suggest the same but couldn't express it. Previously both IAAI and myself pointed out out too small a cable and was there an amp?
Please don't say yes to this but is the amp permanently on or is it remote switched via the head unit?
Mind you if constantly on your flat battery would have told you by now.
-------------
Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.
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