rs suggestions for manual 2004 jeep tj

I just bought a 2004 Jeep TJ with a standard transmission. I am hoping to find a good remote start system, but only need a basic one as I don't have power door locks or anything. A one-button remote I can put in my pocket would be ideal, but anything small is good too. I know I'll need a transponder bypass too, so could use suggestions on a good one (no sacrificing key.) I don't want to spend a ton on a system and not use anything on it either!

Thanks for the help all :)

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For the transponder bypass, look at the Fortin INT-SL+.  Street price about $43, comes pre-loaded with firmware, easy to install & easy to program ( with only one key ) and very reliable.  https://ifar.ca/en/products/flash/int-sl+/

What type of range is needed with the R/S?  A Compustar CM6200 with the RF-1BAM remotes is good to about 800 feet and the remotes are very small.  https://www.compustar.com/remotes/RF-1Bam.php 

There are other high quality systems out there, just make sure it is safe for manual transmission vehicles.

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Soldering is fun!

I was looking at the Compustar one button system, but wasn't sure the big rubber button would last. They do have a metalized version of that remote too though...

Any other brands that are manual trans compatible? I really like the look of the Viper Reponder One # 4203V, but don't think it's compatible.

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Not sure if the Compustar one button metal one is still available. Didn't see it listed on their WEB site.   It was the FM version and had a 300 foot range.

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Soldering is fun!

I emailed these guys to see what they have (like this remote):

https://www.lockdownsecuritycanada.ca/product_p/rf1bam1wtr.htm

I've bought stuff from them before, so hopefully they can help again :)

Anymore suggestions would be great. Any info on that Viper one I mentioned and what I might need to use it?

Thanks :)

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I really like the DEI 4203 (either Python or Viper etc) Responer One units but have gotten conflicting info on if they work with a manual trans.

I emailed someone at Directed and they said it will work as is. but according to the install manual and everywhere I've read online, it says its it wont work! :(

Would I need a DEI 689M if I can even find one, or will it work without?

Any other suggestions on good one-button/small remote units would be great too still please!

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Anyone got  a DEI 689M for sale?

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Didn't realize I had made two posts asking for advice:

https://www.the12volt.com/installbay/forum_posts.asp~TID~132547~PN~1

Fwiw, the Viper does need a 689M (I picked a 689M up on eBay.) But I'm still not sure which system to go with (the Viper Responder One 4203V, or Compustar PRO RF-1WBAM?)

Please repond in the linked post above if you could, no need to have two threads going...

Thanks :)

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The Compustar system ( CM6200s ) is manual transmission safe and does not require the DEI 689M either.

I have installed and also used the Compustar systems with excellent results on manual transmission vehicles.  The one button remotes are small and hold-up well.  Never used a Viper 4203V so I really can't comment or compare the two models. 

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Soldering is fun!

+1 for the compustar. I used to install all DEI units and have completely switched over to compustar. They are fully upgrade-able and hold up very well. The RF-1BAM is a very nice small remote. Also, the compustar MTS ready mode is easier to activate over the DEI. With DEI units, you usually have to press a button on the remote to activate the MTS ready more. With Compustar you just put the ebrake on, take your foot off the brake (you will hear a click). Then when you turn the key off, the vehicle will stay running until you open and close the door. Then it will shut down, lock, and ready mode is activated.


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Kenny
Owner / Technician
KKD Garage LLC
Albany, NY 12205

Both of you guys say the remotes aren't as good as other Compustar ones in this thread:

https://www.the12volt.com/installbay/forum_posts.asp~TID~132361~PN~0~TPN~1

Is that the same system/remotes (I know the brains are different, the one I'm looking at uses the 6200)

Thanks :)

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No, the CS600 system is an entry level unit that comes with its' own remotes.  With CM6200 systems, you must purchase separately the Remote / Antenna Kit.  There is a lot of flexibility with the remote kits.  You can use anything from a one button one-way unit with 800 feet of range, to a 4 button one way kit with 3000 feet, to two-way systems with LCD displays and a mile of range, etc...   Plus you can upgrade easily in the future to  different style remotes.

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Soldering is fun!

Ah, k, I didn't know if the remotes were the same or not, they looked the same. I knew the brains were different :)

Thanks

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I received my unit today and was disappointed to see the remotes do look like the ones I asked about above (silver button/inset), but was told by the place they are the PRO ones, but up here in Canada they still use the silver button/inset in them instead of all black like the USA. I hope they last as they do feel pretty cheap to me even if they are the PRO ones! :(

I got a FTDAS to try, and a mercury switch to use instead of a pin switch as I've had no luck with them. Using a Blade-TB as I have no accessories in the Jeep.

Just need to find some time to get it installed.

Any suggestions or tips would be good. Merry Christmas all :)

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The BLACK/ Orange wire that Directed and others says is ACC1, it reads 12V only in run. Would it be better connected as a 2nd Ign wire? Its for the Air Bag Module, AC/Heater Blower/Blend Door etc...

Probably doesn't matter right? Though, if I set the 'Extended Acc after Ign shutoff 4-08' in the settings (which would be nice in ways), it would keep the blower etc on. Then again, I don't know if the Air Bag Module would like to see the cranking voltage if set as an Ign wire? Hmm... :(

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I'm still looking for input into my question above please on the BLACK/ Orange wire on the Jeep wether it should be ACC as Directed has shown, or IGN as it only has power in Run? 

Finally, a BLACK/ Dark Green wire on the Jeep is also powered in Run+Acc, it goes to the multifunction switch, but I have no idea what it powers on that (combo flasher Ign-on I think.) Think it would be optional as well?

Also there is a WHITE/ Pink wire that is powered in Run+Acc, but is for the radio and front wipers it looks like, optional right?

Directed wiring doesn't even list these last two wires as needed... I love checking stuff that doesn't match the wiring diagrams I get :(

Would it matter wiring the TB-bypass D2D as I dont have power locks/windows etc so dont think there'd be anything to wire up anyway W2W?

Tach signal injector or coil? I have 6 inj wires, 3 coil pack in a rail wires to pick from, probably doesn't matter which I use?...

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Some ACC wires have power only on the run position. What makes it an IGN wire vs an ACC wire is whether it's still powered during crank.

If it's powered during crank, it's an IGN wire. If it turns off during crank, it's an ACC wire.

Everyone is different, but I personally like to power every wire and mimic exactly what the key does when it's turning. Every ACC and especially every IGN wire.

D2D is fine since it's only going to pull power, ground, GWR starter input (if needed).

Tach wire is any uncommon color on any coil or injector. Some coils and injectors have more than 2 wires. But generally only one is not the same, that's the one you want to use. I prefer personally an injector if I can reach it but a coil works great too.

Directwire states -
Tachometer      NOT dk grn/lt grn, dk grn/org      ac      ignition coil or any fuel injector

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What if it powered only in Run, like this BLACK/ Orange wire I'm talking about, if I use it as an ACC and use the delayed option the blower will stay on??

Thanks for the tips on the other stuff too :)

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I'm not too familiar with the options on the Compustar but Directwire does label that BLACK/ Orange wire as an ACC wire. I would test it to be sure though.


12volts      pink/black (30A), red (20A)      +      ignition harness
Starter      yellow      +      ignition harness
Second Starter      N/A           
Ignition      dk. blue      +      ignition harness
Second Ignition      N/A           
Third Ignition      N/A           
Accessory      BLACK/ orange      +      ignition harness
Second Accessory      BLACK/ dk. green and WHITE/ pink      +      ignition harness
Notes: Not required for remote start.

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I just looked thru the manual and realized what option 4-08 is. It's used to keep the Accessories (heat, radio, etc) running after the ignition is shut off. It has nothing to do with starting the vehicle.

It's similar to newer vehicles that have Retained Accessory Power that keeps the radio running after shutting the engine off until you open the door.

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Yes I know, I'm just trying to figure out what I should do with that wire as I mentioned as I'd like to use that option... Also, the other wires if I should use them as Directed instructions don't show them at all...

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I've done installs where Directwire or Audiovox tech states certain ACC wires aren't necessary for remote start and I connect them anyway.

If the factory switch powers them, why shouldn't the remote starter? There are many reasons others would disagree (mainly because it's an added expense to add extra relays), but I personally like everything working when I remote start my vehicle.

If you chose to power those 2 other wires, make sure you use relays to separate them.

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Yes, The remote starts I've done too I've always powered it as the factory does, hence my confusion with this wire.

Anyone know which I should do, IGN or ACC for it?

Thanks :)

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Test it with your meter. If it's powered when you turn the key to crank the engine, set it as an Ignition wire.

If it loses power momentarily when cranking the engine, set it as an ACC wire.

There are often times when Directwire or Audiovox list wires as IGN and they test as ACC wires and vice versa. If no info were available and you had to test all the wires, that's how you know which is an ACC, IGN or Starter wire.



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I've tested it, BLACK/ Orange only has power in Run. Hence my questions.

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Your key switch has 4 possible settings -



I'm referring to the "Start" position. An ACC wire will not be powered when the key is in the momentary "Start" position of the switch. An ACC wire can have power in either the "ACC" or "On/Run" position but NOT in the "Start" position when the engine is actually cranking to start.

The only wire(s) that would have power in the "on/run" position and during crank ("start" position) is an Ignition wire. All others that had power before cranking the engine and lose power while cranking are ACC wires.

Hope that clears up the confusion.

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No confusion, this wire Directed says is the ACC wire, only has power in the Run/On position. Any way to make it work that way?

I want to enable an option as I mentioned to have the ACC stay on after the IGN is shut off like some cars do (for radio mainly. I'd have to add a 2nd ACC wire to power it though.) I can't do that if I use the BLACK/ Orange wire as a ACC, as the climate blower etc will stay on with the Jeep off...

I just realized too I can't make it an IGN either as that would add to much to the cranking draw with it all on :( I wonder if that wire in question can be made to just work in Run like it does from the factory??

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Screw this, I'm not bothering with that option 4-08. It's a manual trans Jeep, and in Reservation Mode it will stay running till I shut the door or however I program it anyways, so its not needed as a friend pointed out today! d'oh!

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