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viper 5704

Printed From: the12volt.com
Forum Name: Car Security and Convenience
Forum Discription: Car Alarms, Keyless Entries, Remote Starters, Immobilizer Bypasses, Sensors, Door Locks, Window Modules, Heated Mirrors, Heated Seats, etc.
URL: https://www.the12volt.com/installbay/forum_posts.asp?tid=132024
Printed Date: July 18, 2025 at 5:57 AM


Topic: viper 5704

Posted By: uf-engineer
Subject: viper 5704
Date Posted: August 17, 2012 at 4:25 PM

I installed the 5704 alarm in my 1999 dodge ram. All was working well until I blew a 20 amp fuse supplying 12V via a 10 gauge wire running from the battery to inside the cabin. This 10 gauge wire supplies power to my window module, door relays, dome light relay and alarm brain. After the fuse blew I realized that the alarm was inactive. I thought the other supply lines would power the alarm. I replace the fuse with a 25 amp fuse.

My questions are:
Should I remove the alarm brain from this circuit and solder it to a supply line within the cabin??? Anybody tring to disable the alarm would still have to open the hood triggering the alarm.

Since the incident, I am now getting the following message “alarm report hood open”. I have the gray wire (H2/17 - Hood Pin Input N/c or N/O) tied to the hood pin switch. It is interesting because the truck will remote start just fine. When I open the hood the remote start will not start the engine. If I push the pin down by hand, the engine will remote start but I get the same message.  Any ideas???

Side note. I was going to connect H2/19 trunk pin / instant trigger to the same pin switch but desided not to. I cut the wire short and left it unconnected.




Replies:

Posted By: howie ll
Date Posted: August 18, 2012 at 1:29 AM
Answer to the first question is definitely a yes. Every circuit should ideally have it's own fuse, safer and easier to fault diagnose.
I think you were simply overloading that circuit.
NOT SAFE to simply increase the fuse capacity.
Answer to the second question? Not sure seems more likely an R/S glitch, you appear to have down the right diagnostic approach.
Try a power down and reboot?
Or erase and reprogram your remotes?
BTW if you do connect trunk, remember to diode block both trunk and hood before the join, 1N4004 diodes, bands away from R/S, other wise a faulty hood switch will switch on the trunk light where present, = flat battery.

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Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.


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