when is interface module required?

I'm ready to purchase a Viper 350 2-way, no remote start. The vehicle is a 2013 Hyundai Accent. It has no factory Immobilizer nor alarm. (Howie will remember our recent discussion, how the US model doesn't have it, but other countries do.).

I visited an alarm store today. They said my car requires an interface kit for the door locks. That it's CANBUS, etc., has to communicate to the brain to control the locks remotely.

Is that true? I'm so used to the common confusion about this car that I imagine they're just looking at one of the interface manufacturer's sites, seeing a module is available (for remote start) and assuming that applies to the US.

If the US model has been neutered by Hyundai, and only has remote door locks, is it as simple as connecting the Viper to the door locks? Or, does it need to communicate to the BCM (or something) using an interface?

Thanks!

I only have info on the 2012 but if the body shape is the same, go to the listed locations and test.
According to my info if you have a BCM,it's located above the pedals, if you aren't sure don't ask the dealer, check using your VIN with your regional Hyundai office for tech. support.
Brown = lock NEG (-)Pin 15, white 39 pin plug in driver's kick panel.
Grey = unlock NEG (-) pin 16 at the same location.
If no BCM you have to add a driver door actuator (another lazy car company saving 50c per vehicle on the production line).
In that case, since I believe the 350 has 2 wire lock out put, use a DEI 451 to power that actuator.
Every other wire you need to access is "analogue" POS or NEG.
So no, you won't need a CAN converter.
The only manufacturer I've ever come across using DATA from a door key was M/Benz from about 2000 on.

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Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

You should find the 12 Hyundai Accent in the Downloads/Manuals section in about 5 mins, search for 2012 Hyundai Accent alarm section.

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Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

howie ll wrote:

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I only have info on the 2012 but if the body shape is the same, go to the listed locations and test.
According to my info if you have a BCM, ...

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Howie, thanks. Yes, my car has the BCM. The BROWN / gray wires you mentioned correlate to the wiring diagram Hyundai provides at hyundaitechinfo.com.

Thanks also for the wiring info you uploaded to the file area. I'll test any wire before using it.

I don't know about the door trigger info in that document. It seems to refer to a pink wire that powers the domelight. I spent some time testing that wire a couple weeks ago (I saw it referenced somewhere else). But, it didn't change state unless the dome light switch was on. (Maybe there is a difference between 2012 and 13.).

Do you recommend people install their own alarms? I'm trying to decide between buying online or going to a local shop and let them install it. I'd like to do it myself and learn more about my car in the process. But, I imagine the end result would be better if a pro does it. I could always dig into what they did (to learn more).

But, when they start talking about using interface modules (when I don't think they're necessary), I wonder if they'd do a better job than I could. :)

Having a new car under warranty for 5-10 years, I think I should have them do it so that, if I have a Hyundai warranty issue, I'd probably be on better footing than if I did it myself.

I'm just trying to weigh all that out right now.

Subject to the quality of your work which is obviously an unknown, e.g. can you solder? Diode knowledge? etc. etc. I see no problem with you doing this yourself.
IMO you've asked the right questions in the right order and double checked everything. Apply that to your work and take your time and you will have no problems.
I don't know whether you already posses a DMM but for this level of work, i.e. no CAN wires and no "unknown" wire probes a bulb tester such as Snap-On CT 42* test light is better faster and more reliable.
Plan the job out, hint, gauge cluster removal on many oriental vehicles gives you access to lots of space, a secure mounting for the brain and stealthy wiring without having to extend anything.
If the LED is separate I usually take that opportunity to drill through the cowl. You won't see it whilst you're in the car but boy is it visible from outside at night though.
It's really all about the P s...proper planning etc.
Ref the door triggers use the bulb tester or meter go to the pink and BROWN / orange wires in the kick,same plug as the lock/unlock triggers.
Place one end on a 12v+ other end on the suspect wire, with a DMM red probe to constant and black to suspect, set to 20VDC, reading should be 12v+ or light on when each door is open, 0v when closed.
If your dome light stays on after closing the door for about a minute or until locked, you won't need dome supervision, like many cars it's inbuilt.
Once you've found the wires diode them together, 2 x 1N4004, bands away from 350 and join to the alarm's green (-) door trigger wire.
*The official line is to encourage the use of DMM s and discourage bulb testers but like most seasoned pros who know where to probe and where and when not to I prefer a bulb tester.
Reasons? The (incandescent) bulb will draw enough to trigger the locks, when testing door triggers you can stand outside the car and see it clearly and instantly, also the bulb acts as a buffer preventing shorts and blown fuses.
All the testing you will be doing on this install relies on the difference between a wire's existing "state" changing from 0v to 12v and vice versa, hence the CT-42 is more than adequate.
Obviously if you were probing CAN or other DATA wires with a "hi" and "lo" state being 1-3v with minuscule amps draw there's a good chance of a bulb tester cooking the circuit, hence the warnings against using one.



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Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

howie ll wrote:

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can you solder? Diode knowledge? etc. etc. ... you already posses a DMM but for this level of work,

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Hi Howie, yes I have a 10meg ohm DMM, can solder, understand basic electrical.

Thanks for the tip about the potential space behind instrument cluster. I'm going to pull it to see what's there.

I commented that I thought the wiring matrix was incorrect about a pink wire (as door trigger). I just tested it and it works perfect for all the doors, regardless of the courtesy lamp's switch setting.

The wiring matrix said a BROWN / orange wire next to it is the driver's switch. But, the pink wire behaves the same way (as any other door) when the driver's door opens. (Not sure when the driver-only trigger would be used for an alarm.).

I also tested the rear hatch trigger (green wire). It works the same. I think I'd tie it and the pink together (with diode isolation) so they all report as "door open" to the alarm. That would leave the alarm's trunk sensor open. I was hoping it would be possible to connect a tilt and glass break sensor to that alarm input which would give me a little more specificity in the 2-way remote's display about what triggered the alarm. (I.e., if it's door open, it would be any of the 5 doors. Trunk open would be one of my add on sensors. Shock would be shock. Hood would be hood.).

The remaining unknown is the lock/unlock wires. I'm going to play with them today.

I'm leaning towards an Autopage alarm. I saw one at the store. The 2-way remote felt more solid to me than Viper's alarms. I like the features, and the manual seemed better.

I'll post a pictorial of my install. I've thought of buying the bare 1-way alarm just to get basic protection sooner. Then replace it with a better 2-way.

Your idea sounds fine except once you load up with extra sensors it's a right PITA to balance them off against each other to avoid false alarming.
IMO a dual zone prox and possibly a shock sensor are all you need.

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Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

howie ll wrote:

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Your idea sounds fine except once you load up with extra sensors it's a right PITA to balance them off against each other to avoid false alarming.

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I'll probably try a proximity alarm as you recommend. (It doesn't hurt to try one and see how it works. It's not a huge amount of money.).

But, I'm curious: what do you mean by "balance them off against each other?" Do you mean the load presented to the alarm's connection? I thought the tilt and glass-break sensors were just binary open/close switches that could be connected in parallel (perhaps a diode on each to isolate one from the other)?

I tested the door lock wires. Short one to ground and the doors lock. (Short the other and they unlock.). I also pulled the instrument cluster to see if I could do it. So, I think I need to choose an alarm.

To be honest, I'm a little put off by Viper. Something rubs me wrong about the way they play up their authorized dealer network -- while selling their refurbs to the unauthorized resellers. I feel like they're talking out of both sides of their mouth. They take this high position that the only legitimate source for their products is an authorized dealer. The authorized dealers run down the online retailers as illegitimate. But, I assume it could only be Viper who's "leaking" those refurb units to this gray market.

That and the way DEI uses 4-5 brands for what is essentially the same alarms. That seems kind of gimmicky.

I know their alarms have a very good reputation. But, I'm leaning towards Autopage.

No, I meant they all end up falsing each other!
I've preached against this so often before and as recently as the last few weeks some one very courteously said "you were absolutely right".
I'm just giving you the I told you so beforehand. check the archives,
As in most things the KISS principal applies.

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Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

howie ll wrote:

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No, I meant they all end up falsing each other!

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You mean a glass-break sensor would cause the tilt sensor to think the car has been tilted? I don't see how that would happen.

Earlier you said:

howie ll wrote:

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gauge cluster removal on many oriental vehicles gives you access to lots of space, a secure mounting for the brain and stealthy wiring without having to extend anything. If the LED is separate I usually take that opportunity to drill through the cowl. You won't see it whilst you're in the car but boy is it visible from outside at night though.

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Is the cowl what is called the firewall in the US? Are you saying you'd have the LED emitting into the engine compartment?

Thanks.

Get real, the cowling is the outer cover of the instrument panel.
I just sat with a customer drinking his tea for over an hour whilst he tried to juggle a shock sensor to correct it, all the time the dual zone prox was triggering off.

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Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

howie ll wrote:

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Get real, the cowling is the outer cover of the instrument panel.

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Oh... good thing I didn't drill that hole in my firewall. :)

I still can't picture where you were suggesting a hole. When you said you take the opportunity (instrument cluster removed) to drill the hole, all I could think of is access to the firewall. If it's the dash, or the visor-like thing shading (cover?) the instrument panel, I can't think of where it would go (in terms of you saying it can't be seen when driving).

howie ll wrote:

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I just sat with a customer drinking his tea for over an hour whilst he tried to juggle a shock sensor to correct it, all the time the dual zone prox was triggering off.

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Ok, I can see how that could happen with those sensors (which seem twitchier to me than tilt and glass break). Wouldn't it help if an inline toggle-switch were added to each sensor so either could be ruled out when adjusting/debugging?

Not trying to say you're wrong. I'm just trying to think through what the issue is. If it's what I think it is, it seems like a switch would improve the problem a lot.(?)

A cover, e.g. steering column, dashboard is cowl or cowling.
Many slope down and towards the windscreen thus install on that reverse slope.
The answer is to install and set up ONE sensor at a time but IMO the glass break is rubbish, the tilt unreliable and extremely prone to falsing.
And of course with a decently* set up dual zone prox, all the others are inside its warn away zone so why bother?
*By decently, trying to make any of these sensors 100% is a lesson in the law of diminished returns and frankly from my point of view no customer can afford to pay me double just to get those sensors to 100%

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Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

Thanks for the explanation about where you would drill the LED hole. It seems like the Accent's dash slopes more inward. But, I'll have to look at it with this new thought. (I was just thinking of putting it down low around the knees.).

I would have never thought the tilt sensor is prone to false alarms. I assumed that's the one thing that would be the most stable (since the car shouldn't move).

I'll try a dual-zone proximity sensor. I wasn't considering that because I assumed it would be prone to false alarms (a cat jumping on the car, a busy street.). But, it would be fun to try one. If it doesn't work out at least I got some experience. It's not like they're expensive.

howie ll wrote:

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The answer is to install and set up ONE sensor at a time but IMO the glass break is rubbish, the tilt unreliable and extremely prone to falsing.

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i love my glass break sensor, ive had one on every car i have. true it can be set off by squeaky brakes or a phone left in your car but i still like it. i also have a proximity sensor iin the center console but i unhooked it because it would constantly warn every few minutes. i had it spliced into the same inputs as the glass break sensor and they seem to not like being hooked together. they are diode isolated but im thinking i may need to hook it to something completely different. i might run the proximity sensor inside my tailgate to protect the cargo area but i think that might be a very bad idea.

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As you can see everyone has their own ideas but the general consensus amongst pros is that too many cooks spoil the broth.

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Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

yup, too many sensors can be very annoying and very hard to set up.

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