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2006 town & country, remote starter

Printed From: the12volt.com
Forum Name: Car Security and Convenience
Forum Discription: Car Alarms, Keyless Entries, Remote Starters, Immobilizer Bypasses, Sensors, Door Locks, Window Modules, Heated Mirrors, Heated Seats, etc.
URL: https://www.the12volt.com/installbay/forum_posts.asp?tid=132258
Printed Date: November†30, 2022 at 11:44 AM


Topic: 2006 town & country, remote starter

Posted By: aznmax2k
Subject: 2006 town & country, remote starter
Date Posted: September†24, 2012 at 10:59 PM

Hi all. I have a problem with remote starter on T&C 2006. I don't know what I did wrong or I miss something. The remote start and run for 5 second then shutdown and keep doing it. But if start with the key or drive to to someplace for awhile then I can start it just fine or comeback 3 or 4 hrs later then start it'll start rite away and stay. But not more then 6 or 7 hrs. My setup on this one was CM6200 w blade al & RF-2W9000 do the bypass in type 2 like datalink recommend. Did connect brake and parking light from the control unit and those working just fine. The only one thing I'm confuse about the second starter most the website or in here said I need to install the second starter with relay and resistor but in datalink instruction didn't said that only type 5 use that relay. But I still go with the most recommend and the problem I only have is above like I state. Any suggestion would be appreciated.
Thanks all.



Replies:

Posted By: kreg357
Date Posted: September†25, 2012 at 5:20 AM
Did you use a relay & 180 Ohm resistor connected to the T&C's PURPLE / Brown MUX wire?  According to the ADS AL(DL) CH6 install guide, it handles the Starter MUX control thru Data.  Disconnect that wire going to the PURPLE / Brown MUX wire and see what happens.  For the ignition circuits, all you should need from the CM6200 is an Ignition connection to the Pink/White wire and a Starter connection to the Yellow wire.  ( There is no Accessory wire. )

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Soldering is fun!




Posted By: offroadzj
Date Posted: September†25, 2012 at 5:46 AM
It sounds like its either the 2nd starter wire (what kreg mentioned) or a bad tach signal learn. Did you connect the tach wire? Try relearning the tach and see if that helps. If not relearn the tach again, but with your foot just barely on the pedal (just bring the rpms up a little bit). That way it will learn a slightly higher tach rate which may help with cold starting.

-------------
Kenny
Owner / Technician
KKD Garage LLC
Albany, NY 12205




Posted By: aznmax2k
Date Posted: September†25, 2012 at 10:11 AM
Yes I. Did use a relay & 180 ohm resistor and a diode too. OK I'll try to disconnect that and see what happen then. Oh I use tach less on this one. If I want to use tach then which wire should I connec then. Thanks




Posted By: tommy...
Date Posted: September†25, 2012 at 10:34 AM
https://directechs.com/tech_docs/Document10582-3.pdf



2006 Chrysler Town & Country     DirectWire 2.0 Vehicle Information

Remote Start
Item     Wire Color     Polarity     Wire Location
12 Volts     lt. blue/red (10A)     +     ignition harness
Second 12 Volts  †
Starter     yellow     +     ignition harness
Second Starter     PURPLE / brown     -     ignition harness
The second starter wire is negative trigger thru a 180 ohm resistor. MUST use a relay. Refer to Tech Doc 1083 for wiring information.
Ignition     pink/white     +     ignition harness
Second Ignition     N/A
Third Ignition     N/A
Accessory     NOT required for remote start
Second Accessory     N/A
Third Accessory  †
Keysense     N/A
Data Bus  †
Can Bus High  †
Can Bus Low  †
Can Bus Sw  †
Power Lock     PURPLE / dk. green     -     BCM, white plug, pin 21
Lock is negative trigger thru a 5.3K ohm resistor. Unlock is negative trigger thru a 2.0K ohm resistor. MUST use relays. The BCM (Body Control Module) is in the driver kick panel near the parking brake. It has 5 plugs in it, one 6 pin plug and four 34 pin plugs. Can also use Directed interface modules.
Power Unlock     same as power lock wire
Lock Motor     tan/white     5wi     BCM, green plug, pin 10
The BCM (Body Control Module) is in the driver kick panel near the parking brake. It has 5 plugs in it, one 6 pin plug and four 34 pin plugs.
Driver Unlock Motor     tan/lt. green     5wi     BCM, green plug, pin 28
The BCM (Body Control Module) is in the driver kick panel near the parking brake. It has 5 plugs in it, one 6 pin plug and four 34 pin plugs.
Parking Lights (-)     WHITE/ brown     -     switch or BCM, gray plug, pin 21
The parking lights are negative trigger thru a 2.1K ohm resistor. There is a rest resistance on the wire, so MUST use a relay to isolate away from the switch. See Tech Doc 1082 for wiring information. The BCM (Body Control Module) is in the driver kick panel near the parking brake. It has 5 plugs in it, one 6 pin plug and four 34 pin plugs.
Parking Lights (+)     WHITE/ brn (L), WHITE/ org (R)     +     driver kick, harness to rear
Hazards     WHITE/ dk. blue     -     switch or BCM, gray plug, pin 31
The BCM (Body Control Module) is in the driver kick panel near the parking brake. It has 5 plugs in it, one 6 pin plug and four 34 pin plugs.
Turn Signal (Left)     wht/lt blu (F), wht/dk grn (R)     +     BCM, green plug, pins 1, 2
The BCM (Body Control Module) is in the driver kick panel near the parking brake. It has 5 plugs in it, one 6 pin plug and four 34 pin plugs.
Turn Signal (Right)     WHITE/ tan (F), WHITE/ brown (R)     +     BCM, green plug, pins 3, 4
The BCM (Body Control Module) is in the driver kick panel near the parking brake. It has 5 plugs in it, one 6 pin plug and four 34 pin plugs.
Headlight     WHITE/ brown     -     switch or BCM, gray plug, pin 21
The headlights are negative trigger thru a 790 ohm resistor. There is a rest resistance on the wire, so MUST use a relay to isolate away from the switch. See DirectFax document 1082 for wiring information. The BCM (Body Control Module) is in the driver kick panel near the parking brake. It has 5 plugs in it, one 6 pin plug and four 34 pin plugs.
AutoLights  †
Reverse Light     WHITE/ lt. green     +     BCM, green plug, pin 9
The BCM (Body Control Module) is in the driver kick panel near the parking brake. It has 5 plugs in it, one 6 pin plug and four 34 pin plugs.
Left Front Door Trigger     see notes     -     BCM, white plug
The driver door trigger is purple in pin 6, the passenger door is PURPLE / white in pin 7, the left sliding door is PURPLE / gray in pin 8, and the right sliding door is purple / YELLOW in pin 5. Use all four wires and diode isolate each. Also have to diode isolate from the BCM. Refer to Tech Doc 1076 for wiring information. The BCM (Body Control Module) is in the driver kick panel near the parking brake. It has 5 plugs in it, one 6 pin plug and four 34 pin plugs.
Right Front Door Trigger  †
Left Rear Door Trigger  †
Right Rear Door Trigger  †
Dome Supervision     yellow/brown or yellow/white     +     BCM, white plug, pin 33
The BCM (Body Control Module) is in the driver kick panel near the parking brake. It has 5 plugs in it, one 6 pin plug and four 34 pin plugs.
Trunk/Hatch Pin     PURPLE / orange     -     BCM, white plug, pin 29
A diode must be placed inline on this wire to avoid problems with the dome lights and parking lights. The BCM (Body Control Module) is in the driver kick panel near the parking brake. It has 5 plugs in it, one 6 pin plug and four 34 pin plugs.
Rear Glass Pin  †
Hood Pin     PURPLE / lt. blue (export only)     -     BCM, white plug, pin 30
The BCM (Body Control Module) is in the driver kick panel near the parking brake. It has 5 plugs in it, one 6 pin plug and four 34 pin plugs.
Trunk/Hatch Release     PURPLE / tan     -     BCM, green plug, pin 6
Hatch release is negative trigger thru a 1.69K or 4.7K ohm resistor. MUST use a relay. The BCM (Body Control Module) is in the driver kick panel near the parking brake. It has 5 plugs in it, one 6 pin plug and four 34 pin plugs.
Trunk Release Motor  †
Fuel Door Release  †
Power Sliding Door (Left)     PURPLE / dk. blue     -     BCM, white plug, pin 1
Left power sliding door is negative trigger thru a 1.5K ohm resistor. Right power sliding door is negative trigger thru a 2.7K ohm resistor. MUST use relays. The BCM (Body Control Module) is in the driver kick panel near the parking brake. It has 5 plugs in it, one 6 pin plug and four 34 pin plugs.
Power Sliding Door (Right)  †
Factory Alarm Arm     arms on lock with door open
Factory Alarm Disarm     factory remote only
Disarm No Unlock     with ignition and Sentry Key
Trunk Alarm Shunt  †
Tachometer     NOT BROWN / white     ac     ign. coil pack or any fuel injector
Wait to Start     N/A
Neutral Safety  †
Clutch Pedal  †
Fuel Pump  †
Rear Defroster     dk. blue/white     + latched     driver kick, harness to rear
Mirror Defroster     same as rear defroster
Left Front Heated Seat  †
Right Front Heated Seat  †
Speed Sense     dk. GREEN/ brown     ac     PCM, BLACK/ green plug, pin 32
The PCM (Powertrain Control Module) is behind the driver side headlight.
Brake Wire     WHITE/ tan     +     brake pedal switch
Parking Brake     dk. GREEN / WHITE     -     parking brake switch
Horn Trigger     dk. GREEN/ purple     -     horn switch
Wipers     BROWN / wht (L), BROWN / org (H)     +     windshield wiper motor
Memory Seat 1     PURPLE / brown     -     BCM, green plug, pin 24
Memory seat 1 is negative trigger thru a 6.8K ohm resistor. Memory seat 2 is negative trigger thru a 2.1K ohm resistor. MUST use relays. The BCM (Body Control Module) is in the driver kick panel near the parking brake. It has 5 plugs in it, one 6 pin plug and four 34 pin plugs.
Memory Seat 2     same as memory seat 1 wire
Memory Seat 3     N/A

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M.E.C.P & First-Class
Go slow and drink lots of water...Procrastinators' Unite...Tomorrow!




Posted By: offroadzj
Date Posted: September†25, 2012 at 11:09 AM
It sounds to me like you need to connect the tach wire.
Tachometer     NOT BROWN / white     ac     ign. coil pack or any fuel injector

That should fix your problem. It sounds like when trying to start cold, it isn't cranking long enough to get the car running. Tach is always the best way to connect it.

-------------
Kenny
Owner / Technician
KKD Garage LLC
Albany, NY 12205




Posted By: kreg357
Date Posted: September†25, 2012 at 1:04 PM

The ADS Blade AL with Blade AL(DL) CH6 firmware should supply a good tach signal.  It uses an internal connection between the Blade and the CM6200
with data it pulls off the J1850 Data wire.  The CM6200 comes defaulted for Tach Mode operation ( 2-10 Opt 1 ).  All you should have to do after the Blade is
successfully programmed to the van is the Tach Learn Process.

STEP 1: Start the vehicle with the key. Allow time for the engine to idle down.

( Step 2 not necessary with Blade AL module supplying the Tach signal. )
STEP 2: Test wire and make connection. At idle the tach wire should test between 1 to 4 Volts AC. As the
vehicle RPMís increase the voltage on the meter will also increase. Always solder tach connections.

STEP 3: Learn tach. While the vehicle is at idle, hold the foot brake and activate the remote start function
on the remote control for 2.5 seconds. The parking lights will flash once and the siren will chirp once to
confirm a good tach signal. The parking lights will flash two times and the siren will chirp two times to
indicate the tach did not learn. Two seconds following the two flashes, the number of parking light flashes
will indicate the cause of the error.

If Step 3 does not give the one flash learned signal, then try an external Tach source as listed above previously.



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Soldering is fun!




Posted By: offroadzj
Date Posted: September†25, 2012 at 1:19 PM
Ahh... I missed the part about the blade-al. Kreg is correct, it should supply the tach signal and all you have to do is make sure your programming is set for tach sensing then program the tach signal.

-------------
Kenny
Owner / Technician
KKD Garage LLC
Albany, NY 12205




Posted By: aznmax2k
Date Posted: September†26, 2012 at 11:30 PM
Sorry to respond late. I did remove the starter 2 and test I can start without the relay hookup. And tried to learn tach like kreg said but not successful the parking light flash twice thats mean not learn. So I just go back and try on tactless mode and it still work but after 4 or 5 hrs passed. I tried again the starter not work.I think I have to go with the tach wire then. I'll post that up later. Try to rest now since still got sick.
Thanks all.




Posted By: offroadzj
Date Posted: September†27, 2012 at 6:08 AM
Did you check the programming to make sure you are set for tach sensing mode?

-------------
Kenny
Owner / Technician
KKD Garage LLC
Albany, NY 12205




Posted By: aznmax2k
Date Posted: September†27, 2012 at 7:51 AM

Yes i did check the tach sesing mode and set in tach 2-10 option 1. But i have some good news. This morning i got out to work i tried again and this thing just start right up and only 1 shot. I think last night when i tried to start with my 2 way remote  more than 100 yards from my house the remote show nothing( Something wrong with this remote). I thought it wasn't working but this morning around 6AM I tried on the 1 way remote and work like i wanted. I'll tried again after work and see if it still work and let you all know.

Thanks you all.





Posted By: aznmax2k
Date Posted: September†30, 2012 at 2:37 AM
Thanks Kreg, after took the unit out today and check I found out what I miss last time was select ( Tach output : on ) in the blade. After select both unit and the blade my van can start anytime now without the tach wire to ignition coil. It doesn't matter how long I left it cold.
Thank you all and specially is Kreg for the help.




Posted By: kevmartin64
Date Posted: January†06, 2015 at 3:10 PM
I am also connecting a remote starter to my wife's 2006 Chrysler Town & Country.
I have a Viper 4204V remote start and idatalink AL CA that I flashed for the Viper 4204V. I am using the DBI data port connections between the 4204 and AL CA. Aside from the 12V constant and Accessory to the 4204 and 12V constant to the idatalink AL CA with CH6 connection into the ignition do I need anything else to complete the install? Thanks, Kevin





Posted By: tedmond
Date Posted: January†06, 2015 at 5:46 PM
The idatalink guide will tell you exactly what needs to be connected. Follow that guide

-------------
Ted
2nd Year Tier 1 Medical School
Still installing as a hobby...pays for groceries
Compustar Expert




Posted By: kevmartin64
Date Posted: January†06, 2015 at 8:31 PM
Ted, I connected everything according to the idatalink instruction and can get the doors to unlock and lock but when it came to starting, I can hear the relays clicking inthe Viper 4205 controller but no engine start. Not sure what I did wrong but red on other posts that Chryslers seem to have problrms and some installs need resistors and relays.




Posted By: tedmond
Date Posted: January†06, 2015 at 10:47 PM
did you connect a starter wire and ignition wire to the vehicle?

looks like the guide has changed since I saw it last

-------------
Ted
2nd Year Tier 1 Medical School
Still installing as a hobby...pays for groceries
Compustar Expert




Posted By: kevmartin64
Date Posted: January†08, 2015 at 11:22 AM
Ted, The Viper 4204 remote start 12 gauge harness has an 8 pin connector.I have connected the Red 12V fused ignition 1 output and the RED / Black 12V fused Accessory/Starter input directly to the battery. The remaining wires are not connected. Do I connect the (+) 12 gauge Violet starter output wire to the vehicle starter wire (Yellow) in the ignition harness and also the (+) 12 gauge Pink ignition 1 output to the vehicle ignition wire (pink/white) at the ignition connector. Note that the idatalink ALCA (DBI-AL-CH6) connection is spliced into the vehicle ignition wire (pink/white) in 3 places according to the CH6 guide. Your help is much appreciated.
Kevin




Posted By: tedmond
Date Posted: January†08, 2015 at 12:10 PM
the violet start wire, pink ignition wire needs to be connected to the car.

Make sure you power up the Red and RED / White 12v inputs. I cant recall if there are 3 power inputs. haven't used a viper in sometime

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Ted
2nd Year Tier 1 Medical School
Still installing as a hobby...pays for groceries
Compustar Expert




Posted By: kevmartin64
Date Posted: January†08, 2015 at 12:17 PM
Thanks Ted, I will give it a shot tonight and let you know how it works.




Posted By: kevmartin64
Date Posted: January†17, 2015 at 5:28 PM
Ted, Still no joy with the Viper 4204 and idatalink ALCA for the remote start.
I fashed the idatalink to "other" since there was no 4204 option for the 2006 Chrysler Town & Country. The viper remote locs and unlocks with no problem. When I press the remore start, I can hear the relays clicking but no acivity on the car. The flashing blue LED on the comand module antena flashed 3 times meaning low or no RPM so I guess this is normal until the remote start is working. I have connected the 4204 +12V inputs in the rmote start harness and +12V on the main harness so there is 4 x +12V inputs.
The 4204 violet wire off the remote start harness is connected to the car starter wire in the ignition harness. The 4204 pink wire of the remote start harness is connected to the ignition at the idatalink connection (I tried before the idatalink and after and it makes no difference). This should not me so difficult yet still the engine has no signs of cranking.
Do I need to connect the 4204 Orange accessory output (+) to the car? Thanks for your help.




Posted By: kreg357
Date Posted: January†17, 2015 at 7:57 PM
Possibly a dumb question but did you flash the ADS AL-CA bypass module with the DBI AL(DL) CH6 flavor of firmware.  The ADS AL(DL) CH6 flavor will not work D2D with a Viper.

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Soldering is fun!




Posted By: kevmartin64
Date Posted: January†18, 2015 at 8:52 AM
Yes, I flashed it to DBI for the vehicle. The viper remote works to lock and unlock but no start. Hmmmmn





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