’08 dodge caliber viper 5204/evo chr t2

Hello everyone!  It’s been a few years since my last posting.  I’ve previously (successfully) installed two other RS/Alarms with the generous help of the cool folks on this forum.  I’m installing a Viper 5204 with Fortin EVO-CHR T2 on a friend's 2008 Dodge Caliber Automatic.  I've never used a Fortin Bypass but was recommended the product by someone on this forum.  After some research getting the wiring diagram for this car and reviewing the wiring connections for both Viper and Fortin products, I’ve deduced that the connections are as follow below.  Any help you can provide would greatly be appreciated.

Note: I’m only using the Pink Ignition 1 Input/Output wire from the RS H3 Harness (Heavy Gauge) because the Fortin Instructions specify that if this vehicle does not have a (+) Starter wire in the ignition plug (harness), to follow “Connection C” in the installation manual.  Connection C calls for the Ignition 1 wire from the RS to be connected to the Fortin Yellow Wire and not to the vehicle. 

Thank you in advance.

Main Harness (H1), 6-pin connector    
H1/1  RED  (+)12VDC CONSTANT INPUT ------> To Car Battery fused
H1/2  BLACK  (-) CHASSIS GROUND  ------>To car ground (new ground)
H1/3  BROWN  (+) SIREN OUTPUT ------> To siren of Viper 5204
H1/4  WHITE/ BROWN  PARKING LIGHT ISOLATION WIRE - PIN 87a of onboard relay ------> NOT USED
H1/5  WHITE  PARKING LIGHT OUTPUT  ------>To Car WHITE/ Violet Pkg Light Wire in driver kick panel
H1/6  ORANGE  (-) 500mA GROUND WHEN ARMED OUTPUT ------> To  (-) While Running on Evo-Chr
   
H2 Harness, 24-pin connector   
H2/1  PINK/WHITE  (-) 200mA IGNITION/FLEX RELAY CONTROL OUTPUT  ------> NOT USED
H2/2  BLACK/ WHITE  (-) NEUTRAL SAFETY INPUT ------>  To car ebrake status on Evo-Chr
H2/3  BLUE/WHITE  (-) 200mA 2ND STATUS /REAR DEFOGGER OUTPUT------> NOT USED
H2/4  GREEN/ BLACK  (-) 200mA OEM ALARM DISARM OUTPUT------> NOT USED
H2/5  RED / WHITE  (-) 200mA TRUNK RELEASE OUTPUT  ------> NOT USED
H2/6  GREEN  (-) DOOR TRIGGER INPUT (N/C* OR N/O) ------>  Door Status on Evo-Chr
H2/7  BLACK / YELLOW  (-) 200mA DOME LIGHT SUPERVISION OUTPUT------> NOT USED
H2/8  BROWN / BLACK  (-) 200mA HORN HONK OUTPUT------> NOT USED
H2/9  DARK BLUE  (-) 200mA STATUS OUTPUT ------> NOT USED
H2/10  PINK  (-) 200mA IGNITION 1 OUTPUT------> NOT USED
H2/11  WHITE/ BLACK  (-) 200mA AUX 3 OUTPUT------> NOT USED
H2/12  VIOLET  (+) DOOR TRIGGER INPUT------> NOT USED
H2/13  WHITE/ VIOLET  (-) 200mA AUX 1 OUTPUT------> NOT USED
H2/14  VIOLET/BLACK  (-) 200mA AUX 2 OUTPUT------> NOT USED
H2/15  ORANGE / BLACK  (-) 200mA AUX 4 OUTPUT ------> NOT USED
H2/16  BROWN  (+) BRAKE SHUTDOWN INPUT ------. To Brake Status on Evo-Chr
H2/17  GREY  (-) HOOD PIN INPUT (N/C OR N/O) ------>  To Hood Status on Evo-Chr
H2/18  VIOLET / YELLOW  (-) 200mA STARTER OUTPUT------> NOT USED
H2/19  BLUE  (-) TRUNK PIN/ INSTANT TRIGGER INPUT (N/C OR N/O) ------>  To Trunk on Evo-Chr
H2/20  GREY/BLACK  (-) DIESEL WAIT TO START INPUT------> NOT USED
H2/21  WHITE/ BLUE  (-) REMOTE START/ TURBO TIMER ACTIVATION INPUT------> NOT USED
H2/22  ORANGE  (-) 200mA ACCESSORY OUTPUT------> NOT USED
H2/23  VIOLET/WHITE  TACHOMETER INPUT ------>  To Tach on Evo-Chr
H2/24  GREEN / WHITE  (-) 200mA OEM ALARM ARM OUTPUT------> NOT USED
   
   
Remote Start, (H3) 10-pin connector    
H3/1  PINK  (+) IGNITION 1 INPUT/OUTPUT ------>  To Yellow wire on Evo-Chr (as per Fortin Install instructions)
H3/2  RED / WHITE  (87) FLEX RELAY +12V INPUT (30A FUSED)------> NOT USED
H3/3  ORANGE  (+) ACCESSORY OUTPUT------> NOT USED
H3/4  VIOLET  (+) STARTER OUTPUT (CAR SIDE OF THE STARTER KILL)------> NOT USED
H3/5  GREEN  (+) STARTER INPUT (KEY SIDE OF THE STARTER KILL)------> NOT USED
H3/6  RED  IGNITION 1 +12V INPUT (30A FUSED)------> NOT USED
H3/7  PINK/WHITE  (30) FLEX RELAY OUTPUT (car side of ign, acc or starter wire)------> NOT USED
H3/8  PINK/BLACK  (87a) FLEX RELAY INPUT (key side of ign, acc or starter wire if needed)------> NOT USED
H3/9  RED / BLACK  ACCESSORY/STARTER RELAY +12V INPUT (30A FUSED)------> NOT USED
H3/10  NC  No Connection------> NOT USED
   
Door Lock, 3-pin connector    
1 BLUE  (-) 500mA UNLOCK OUTPUT ------>  To Unlock Status on Evo-Chr
2 EMPTY------> NOT USED
3 GREEN  (-) 500mA LOCK OUTPUT ------>  To Lock Status on Evo-Chr

That is a very easy car with that bypass. The T-harness makes it even that much easier. Everything you have listed appears correct at a quick glance. The only connections (other than the t-harness) to the vehicle are the parking lights and 12v constant to the battery (FUSED).



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Kenny
Owner / Technician
KKD Garage LLC
Albany, NY 12205

Thanks for the quick response, Kenny.  One thing I noticed was that the Yellow wire from the EVO-CHR unit is a very thin gauge wire as compared to the PINK (+) IGNITION 1 INPUT/OUTPUT wire coming out of the H3 RS harness.  These wires, for obvious reasons, are much heavier gauge.  Any issues with connecting these two wires together considering they are different gauge sizes?  Also, any gauge/fuse size recommendations on 12V Constant to the battery?

Thanks again for your help.

No, as far as I know, the EVO-Chr ignition is just a sensing input to know when the remote start sends power to the ignition. As far as the power to the battery, most starters come with a 30amp relay. That is more than likely overkill for this application, but as long as you have the correct sized wire, it won't hurt it.

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Kenny
Owner / Technician
KKD Garage LLC
Albany, NY 12205

From what I can see on the Evo-Chr installation instructions if your not using D2D you will need to hookup the Starter wire of the 5204 to the Lt.Blue/Black on the Chr

offroadzj wrote:

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No, as far as I know, the EVO-Chr ignition is just a sensing input to know when the remote start sends power to the ignition. As far as the power to the battery, most starters come with a 30amp relay. That is more than likely overkill for this application, but as long as you have the correct sized wire, it won't hurt it.

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GREAT!  Thanks for the recos.  Working on it tomorow morning.  Should be farily straight forward.

rjkboyle wrote:

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From what I can see on the Evo-Chr installation instructions if your not using D2D you will need to hookup the Starter wire of the 5204 to the Lt.Blue/Black on the Chr

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Yup.  I had that highlighted on the instructions sheet and forgot to include it on my write up above.  Thanks for catching it.  :)

I've made all my connections, (soldered) as written above but the car won't turn over. I can lock/unlock, arm/disarm, with fortin bypass connected. However when I attempt to remote start, I get nothing. The viper brain box clicks 7 times.

The only wires I have connected from the H3 harness are as follows:

H3/4 VIOLET (+) STARTER OUTPUT (CAR SIDE OF THE STARTER KILL) ------> to lt blu/blk (+) starter wire of Evo-char

H3/1 pink ignition input output ------> yellow wire of Evo-char

I feel like I need to connect other h3 harness wires but don't know which. Can someone please help me?

Your help is greatly appreciated.

Thx

Seven blinks on the Vipers means you are still programmed for Manual Transmission.  Change Viper Menu 3, Item 1, Option 2 for Auto Trans.

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Soldering is fun!

Thanks for the reply. I tried to get into the menu by opening the door, turning the ignition on, then back off, holding control button for three seconds .... As per the instructions but I don't get any chirps to indicate what menu # I'm in. The valet light just turns on ad says on.

What am I doing wrong?

Also, Am I using the correct starter output wire to the evo chr?

Yes, H3/4 Violet (+) Stater ( thick wire ) goes to the EVO-CHR Light Blue/Black (+) Starter Input ( thin wire ).

Can't help too much with the Viper programming ( I use the BitWriter ).  As long as the EVO-CHR is programmed properly to the vehicle, it should output the Door Trigger EVO-CHR Green wire to Viper H2/6.  Hopefully the EVO-CHR outputs an Ignition signal on the Yellow wire to the Viper H3/1.  You could check to see if this happens with a DMM while cycling the ignition key OFF to ON ( and also test the Door Trigger output wire with the door open & closed ).

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Soldering is fun!

Not sure if it's the same but I know the avitals you need to press unlock on the remote before you can get into programming mode

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If i Can't Install it    I Don't need it   Joe

kreg357 wrote:

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Yes, H3/4 Violet (+) Stater ( thick wire ) goes to the EVO-CHR Light Blue/Black (+) Starter Input ( thin wire ).

Can't help too much with the Viper programming ( I use the BitWriter ).  As long as the EVO-CHR is programmed properly to the vehicle, it should output the Door Trigger EVO-CHR Green wire to Viper H2/6.  Hopefully the EVO-CHR outputs an Ignition signal on the Yellow wire to the Viper H3/1.  You could check to see if this happens with a DMM while cycling the ignition key OFF to ON ( and also test the Door Trigger output wire with the door open & closed ).

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So no other wires from the H3 harness? If that's the case, all my connections seem to be correct.

The problem may be in the viper unit from a programming standpoint. I just need to figure out how to get it in programming mode.

chev104275 wrote:

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Not sure if it's the same but I know the avitals you need to press unlock on the remote before you can get into programming mode

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Great! I'll try that. I got to work once. But can't seem to get III again, even after trying for an hour. Damn DEI.

Ok. Got into e programming mode - had the doors locked with OEM key fob. DOH!

Still no remote start! Seven clicks from VIPER box.

Can it be the H3/4 violet starter output is the incorrect wire?

Look in the Viper manual. The seven clicks are the parking lights diagnostics. Watch the lights to see how many times they flash (most likely 7) then look in the troubleshooting section to see what corresponds to the number of light flashes. That will tell you what is causing it to not start. I am thinking that it is possibly in manual mode... but it's been a while since I've dealt with DEI

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Kenny
Owner / Technician
KKD Garage LLC
Albany, NY 12205

offroadzj wrote:

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Look in the Viper manual. The seven clicks are the parking lights diagnostics. Watch the lights to see how many times they flash (most likely 7) then look in the troubleshooting section to see what corresponds to the number of light flashes. That will tell you what is causing it to not start. I am thinking that it is possibly in manual mode... but it's been a while since I've dealt with DEI

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I programmed it to automAtic but now it clicks 8 times with no start. 8 clicks mean neutral safety shutdown. Checked the the BLACK/ white neutral safety wire from viper and it is connected to the fortin embrace status wire. Is this incorrect?

I also check the neutral safety switch for continuity and its good. Yes this switch is connected to viper brain and in the ON position.

I'm stumped!!!!!

Again thanks so much everyone's help. Any other ideas?

Make sure the neutral safety h2/2 stays grounded throughout the remote start, check with DMM. Also have you programmed the chr? Or are you leaving key in the ignition while trying to remote start?

rjkboyle wrote:

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Make sure the neutral safety h2/2 stays grounded throughout the remote start, check with DMM. Also have you programmed the chr? Or are you leaving key in the ignition while trying to remote start?

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The H2/2 neutral safety input is connected directly to the fortin bypass. So is the H2/17 hood pin and the H2/19 trunk, for that matter. I know these need to see ground before the RS will start. But I though connecting them to the fortin was doing just that. At least that the way the instructions had it.

Should I remove there's from the fortin and ground directly?

I ahve programmed the chr. Tried remote starting with the key in the ignition and no luck either.

When I DMM qptest the NS wire, connected to the fortin bypass, it reads 12v.

Testing method: blk lead from DMM to ground, red lead from DMM to NS wire. Is this incorrect?

I cut the H2/2 NS wire from the fortin and took it to ground. 8 clicks went away.   Car still doesn't start. Viper units clicks to attempt to start and nothing. It does this three times before it times out. Even tried RS with key int the ignition, still nothing.

m109ner wrote:

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I cut the H2/2 NS wire from the fortin and took it to ground. 8 clicks went away.   Car still doesn't start. Viper units clicks to attempt to start and nothing. It does this three times before it times out. Even tried RS with key int the ignition, still nothing.

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That testing method is fine, that wire was causing the eight flash problem, 12v on that wire will prevent it from r/s.

Are you getting any light flashes now? Maybe try setting it to tach mode and programming the tach wire. Then try to do a pit stop. Start the car with key. While running, press the remote start button, then turn off key and see if car stays running.

rjkboyle wrote:

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m109ner wrote:

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I cut the H2/2 NS wire from the fortin and took it to ground. 8 clicks went away.   Car still doesn't start. Viper units clicks to attempt to start and nothing. It does this three times before it times out. Even tried RS with key int the ignition, still nothing.

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That testing method is fine, that wire was causing the eight flash problem, 12v on that wire will prevent it from r/s.

Are you getting any light flashes now? Maybe try setting it to tach mode and programming the tach wire. Then try to do a pit stop. Start the car with key. While running, press the remote start button, then tturn off key and see if car stays running.

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No flashes. The viper box attempts to initiate start but the starter doesnt ever engage. It does this three times and cancels out.

It's already in tach mode.   I also have 12v from the yellow ignition wire from chr. Just doesn't seem to want to engage the starter wire.

Wow this was supposed to be the easiest install, from what I've read. However, I've spent two days working on this set up.   :)

Hey There,

I installed a remote starter in my wifes 2008 dodge caliber last year using the same fortin EVO CHR with T2 harness.
You are correct it one of the easiest installs you will do, but it can be frustrating when it doesent work.

I installed a compustar in her car, so it will be a bit different, but hopefully what i have to offer will be some help to you.
Please note - i installed a 2way starter so she will know when it starts. 
I DID NOT WIRE UP THE PARKING LIGHTS ON PURPOSE AS THEY WOULD SHINE DIRECTLY INTO A NEIGHBOURS WINDOW WHEN SHE STARTS HER CAR.

Here's what i did. (You do not need to cut or splice into any factory wires)

I connected the T2 harness as shown in the manual.
Then i connected the fortin to the remote start using the d2d cable.
Connect the ignition wire from the remote starter to the yellow ignition wire on connector 2 from the fortin.
Pop the hood and take a length of wire and run it from the 12V wire on the remote starter directly to the battery. (this is only temporary so just go out the door.)

Now that you have connected the remote starter to 12v and to the ignition, you can now enter program mode
Program your remotes to the brain as per directions in the install manual.

Try to remote start.
Once it starts successfully, you can remove the 12v from the battery and remote starter. And you can disconnect the ignition wire from the remote starter from the yellow ignition wire from connector 2 on the fortin. 

Note - you will not be able to re enter program mode without reconnecting the ignition and 12v wires.

In the end all you need it the T2 harness to go from the vehicle to the fortin, and the data2data wire to connect the fortin and the remote start.  i did not need any other wires on the remote start (except for the antenna)

This is not the ideal install as it does not allow you to re enter programming mode, nor do the parking light come on when you start the car, however this is what i did on my wife's Caliber.

Some people on the forums may not agree with the way i did the install, but there are reasons why i did it the way that i did it.

Hopefully this helps you out.

If you have any questions just ask!

Just to be sure you are using the H3/4 wire (Starter side) for the starter wire.

How did the pit stop work? Did it?