2009 tundra remote start and bypass

Hello,

I have a 2009 Tundra Limited Crewmax. 40 Bit key. I am planning to install one of the following for remote start capabilities:

Python 574 (viper 5704) alarm remote start
or the
Clifford 20.7X or Viper 5501 Keyless remote start units.

What is everyones recommendation for the bypass a
DB-All - (DB-ALL- 401.TL1 v2.19)
FLCAN (firmware: FLC-AL(DL)-TL1)
Idatalink (Firmware:ADS-AL(TB)-TL)

For all of these I would prefer to use DATA as long as it is reliable.

What does everyone recommend. I have heard mixed reviews, but many folks say the idatalink is the best.

With success I would do that same install on our 08 Highlander..

Thanks for your help.

I used to install DEI bypasses (DB-ALL)... that was until they started getting ridiculous failure rates. I got tired of having cars come back so I switched over iDatalink and I doubt I'll ever go back.

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Kenny
Owner / Technician
KKD Garage LLC
Albany, NY 12205

x2 with Kenny.

I used to deal exclusively with DEI for a little while until I also started getting more failed installs with DB-ALLs and some other bypasses from DEI than it was worth.

I switched to idatalink and sometimes Fortin, I've not looked back. I would put idatalink at the top of the list, then Fortin as an alternative.

You can use D2D with either idatalink or Fortin but may require a different data harness to fit the Python system. I would recommend W2W since that always works well and it's easier to troubleshoot later should something not work correctly.

Good Luck!!

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The bypass module all depends on what you can obtain and how much you want to spend. 

The iDatalink ADS TB with the ADS TB TL firmware is the same as the ADs AL CA and cheaper.  However, you
must have access to their WEB site to flash either module ( or a source that can do it for you ).

The DEI PKALL is good and very similar to the Fortin Key-OverRide-ALL. They come pre-loaded and ready to go.

The DB-ALL does a bit more than just the transponder bypass but it too must be flashed with the correct
firmware and is at the high end on cost.

A DEI XK05 flashed with the PKTI firmware is a good option but must be flashed...

The DEI PKTX is good, comes pre-loaded, but pricey.

The iDatalink ADS TB KO is a good module and comes pre-loaded with firmware.

I, personally, have used the above mentioned XK05 w/PKTI firmware on Tundra's.  Easy to install & program
and very reliable.  Availability and cost were my main selection factors.
I have also used iDatlink modules on them and am in total agreement with Kenny & Frank about their superior quality.

Look around for an ADS TB KO and compare it to the Fortin Key-OverRide-ALL or DEI PKALL.

Remember, some of the bypass modules require two working ignition keys to program.  Review the install guides
to be sure.

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Soldering is fun!

I like using the key-override-all or key-override-sl2 both by Fortin on Toyota & Ford 40-bit. I've never had one fail.

After looking into all of the options above and reading the install guides/wiring guides I think I am a bit confused.

Will the XK05 work the same way as above (providing I can find the unit flashed)

If I used the ADS AL CA (similar with DBALL) it will allow connection through CAN BUS which will control almost all the functions of the remote start and keyless entry or am I way off here.   This in 2 way D2D will require the least amount of wiring to be tied into inside of the vehicle also eliminating error (Assuming everything works correctly on the bypass). This leaves connections needed for starter, Ground, +12V. ignition, accessory, CAN High/Low, RX, TX and parking lights.

Using Fortin Key Override All (or PKALL) or ADS TB I will still have to make connections above (minus the CAN High/Low) as well as all other connections

Or am I way off?   Forgive my ignorance, I have installed several alarms and keyless systems many years ago, but have never needed a bypass, so trying to make this as easy as possible.

Regardless what you go with, save yourself the future hassle and just do W2W. Yes it will take approx. 10 min longer prep, but if an issue arises, you have no way of testing anything in D2D. SO you will end up doing W2W anyways but now you have to do it in the vehicle (which is a much bigger PITA). Also, I would stick with the ADS or the Fortin. They are a lot more reliable. If you can find someone to flash the ALCA for you then yes, it will control almost all of your functions (locks, factory alarm, door status, trunk status, hood status, brake status, tachometer,etc) which will make the install a ton easier and will allow for less 'intrusion' on the vehicle wiring.


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Kenny
Owner / Technician
KKD Garage LLC
Albany, NY 12205

So best bet is to do the ADS AL CA. Connect wire to wire from ADS to RS unit. And allow the ADS to control the "functions" Like you say it is a lot easier to bench solder those connections from bypass to RS than do them in the truck.

Thanks everyone! I will confirm my source can flash the ADS with the needed firmware. I think I will get the Clifford 20.7X or Viper 5501(LC3) and utilize the factory alarm.

Decided on the Viper 5704 and the ADS AL CA. All should be here next week for install next weekend. Going to confirm all my wiring locations.   Will post up any questions or concerns that I have during installation and prep. Thanks!

Below is my list of connections. I just wanted another opinion before I dive in. All connections will be tested to confirm before wiring is connected to avoid damage to the system and truck wiring

Truck: 2009 Tundra Crewmax Limited 40 bit key.
Alarm 5704 Viper
Bypass ADS-AL-CA (DBI AL(DL)-TL1

Plan is to do a D2D connection I have read a few good reports with the pre 80 bit key and D2D.

Please take a look and let me know if anything looks way off.

Also only wire needed to be cut is the Dark Green Starter wire correct? or can this be done without cutting it?

thanks!

Only a few updates to your excellent chart.

Parking Light isolation wire is not used.  The guides I saw listed the Tundra (-) Parking Light wire as Tan,
no diode needed.  Also set the Vipers Parking Light internal jumper/fuse to (-), factory default is (+).

The Vipers BLACK/ White Neutral Safety Input wire should go the chassis ground for an auto trans vehicle.

The iDatalink ADS AL-CA bypass module is looking for a (+) Ignition input its' Pink wire.  The Vipers' Ign output on
Pin 10 of the 24 Pin harness is (-). 

The H3 harness with the ADS bypass Pink wire added.  While it shouldn't matter, Ign1 and Ign2 are switched.

1 PINK (+) IGNITION 1 INPUT/OUTPUT        Black @ Ign switch Pin 6 * PLUS*  ADS AL CA Pink (+) Ign Input
2 RED / WHITE (30A) FUSED FLEX RELAY Input       +12V @ thick Black wire @ Fuse Box
3 ORANGE ACCESSORY OUTPUT   Gray @ Ign switch Pin 2
4 VIOLET (+) STARTER OUTPUT (CAR SIDE)          Dark Green @ Ign switch Pin 7  Cut
5 GREEN (+) STARTER INPUT (KEY SIDE)              Dark Green @ Ign switch Pin 7  Cut
6 RED (+) FUSED (30A) IGNITION 1 INPUT            +12V @ thick Black wire @ Fuse Box
7 PINK/WHITE (+) FLEX RELAY OUTPUT      Light Green @ Ign switch Pin 1     *** Viper set to Ign2
8 PINK/BLACK FLEX RELAY INPUT 87A     Not Used
9 RED / BLACK FUSED (30A) ACC/STARTER INPUT         +12V @ thick Black wire @ Fuse Box
10 N/C N/C

A note on the ADS AL-CA bypass module.  Hopefully you are getting it flashed with the DBI AL(DL) -TL1 firmware.  That will allow the D2D connection between the Viper and bypass.  I think that a special cable ( ADS HRN DBI ) might be optional and not included in the package ( unless you get the FLCAN version ).   My recommendation is to perform a Factory Reset on the module and set the Installation Mode to Data Mode ( one blink ) and lock it in, then program the bypass to the truck.

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Soldering is fun!

Kreg357 Thanks for the assistance.

Modified my sheet below for a All alarm points, and a second sheet for only the connections i will make.

I have a couple questions:

1. Do you know the connection harness, wire color and pin for the defrost? (I have auto climate control)
2. I have to confirm, but looks like I need a relay to power my Topper actuator
3. Will a relay be needed to interrupt the auto headlights? Or will I need to program a setting to turn them off if i
4. For the sunroof open/close, Do you know the connection point to auto close/open the sunroof? I can open or close it by holding the key in the door for 3 seconds or more. Guessing I would need to Connect to AUX with a 3-10 second timed output for open. And I would need to do the same for close but link the AUX to arm?

Below shows a total of 25 connections, 4 power can be bundled and 3 ground to be bundled creating effectively 20 total terminations, including plugging in the D2D cord and shock sensor. Not to bad.

The Unit is already flashed to the DBI AL(DL)-TL1 firmware, and it included the ADS HRN DBI cable as well as the standard cable for d2d. Great suggestion for anyone else!   

Here is some info on the Rear Defrost. ( Test to be sure.)
Audiovox info for 2009 Tundra
  Rear Defrost  RED  (-)  A/C CONTROL UNIT

Omega has this info :
  Rear Defrost  GREEN (-)  20 PIN GREY CONN IN DKP PIN #3

Can't help on the aftermarket Topper circuit.  Probably have to test at the switch.

Can't find any info on the AutoHeadlights.  Most people don't worry too much about them.  At night, when the vehicle
is under remote start, they will come on.  If you find a basic (-) signal wire coming from the Headlight connector
that comes on in the Auto position of the switch, you can use a relay and (-) Status Output to open that wire.

Can't find any info on the Sunroof, but if the truck has "total closure" thru the door key, you can program a Viper
AUX output to handle it.  You will need a BitWriter to make changes in that Menu ( or use a 528T module )...

There should be a forum member with access to "AstroChart type" info for those wires, hopefully.   

The Vipers Blue Status Output shouldn't be necessary for the bypass module when going D2D.

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Soldering is fun!