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viper 5904 and 2013 toyota tacoma

Printed From: the12volt.com
Forum Name: Car Security and Convenience
Forum Discription: Car Alarms, Keyless Entries, Remote Starters, Immobilizer Bypasses, Sensors, Door Locks, Window Modules, Heated Mirrors, Heated Seats, etc.
URL: https://www.the12volt.com/installbay/forum_posts.asp?tid=132417
Printed Date: April 25, 2024 at 5:24 PM


Topic: viper 5904 and 2013 toyota tacoma

Posted By: jmat72
Subject: viper 5904 and 2013 toyota tacoma
Date Posted: October 18, 2012 at 5:50 PM

Hi All,

Long time lurker, first time poster.  I have searched and researched literally hours on this and this is what I have come up with.  It’s been a while since I have installed an alarm and I want to make sure I have all of the correct connections.  I am assuming the 2013 is the same as the 2012.

I am installing a Viper 5904 into a 2013 Toyota Tacoma Double Cab, V6, Automatic, with a “G” key.  Can you guys review the wiring I have below and let me know if I’ve got it all correct?  I have some questions regarding which connections require relays and also the PKALL bypass.  I downloaded the instructions for the “G” key, I am a little fuzzy on the Data 2 wire and the keysense.

This post was very helpful, but it does not look like I need to use the keysense wire and the tx/rx for the bypass are in a different location.

https://www.the12volt.com/installbay/forum_posts.asp~TID~130004

Also, will the WHITE/ red wire at the ignition switch be enough to power all of the relays, including those on the H3 harness?  The wiring diagram I have says that there is another 12v constant at the ignition switch (WHITE/ blue), should I use that for the relays?

From what I gather I will need a total of 3 relays – horn honk, dome light and starter 2.  And perhaps one more each for the parking lights and piezo siren?

Sorry for the long post, thanks in advance to anyone who reads and responds!

Viper 5904 Connections

H1/1 12v Constant – WHITE/ red - ignition switch, white 8 pin plug, pin 5
H1/2 ground - ground
H1/3 (+) siren – positive of siren, will this support a piezo siren as well, or should this be on a relay?
H1/4 Parking light isolation wire – n/a
H1/5 Parking light output (relay?) – green - headlight switch, white 20 pin plug, pin 18 (Set jumper to negative)
H1/6 Ground when Armed – blue/white - PKALL

H2/1 Ignition/Flex Relay Control Output – n/a
H2/2 Neutral Safety Input - ground
H2/3 2nd status – n/a
H2/4 OEM Alarm Disarm Output – GREEN/ black - driver kick, gray 10 pin plug, pin 8, set to double pulse
H2/5 Trunk release – n/a
H2/6 (-) Door Trigger input – GREEN/ YELLOW - dash fuse box, white 18 pin plug (1F), pin 7 (will this work for all 4 doors?)
H2/7 (-) Dome light supervision – relay- blue - dash fuse box, black 13 pin plug (1E), pin 9
H2/8 (-) Horn Honk Output – relay - GREEN/ red - dash fuse box, white 18 pin plug (1C), pin 10
H2/9 Status Output – n/a
H2/10 Ignition 1 output – n/a
H2/11 Aux 3 output - n/a
H2/12 (+) Door trigger input – n/a
H2/13 Aux 1 output - n/a
H2/14 Aux 2 output - n/a
H2/15 Aux 4 output - n/a
H2/16 (+) Brake Shutdown – blue - dash fuse box, white 13 pin plug (1D), pin 13
H2/17 (-) Hood pin input – hood pin
H2/18 (-) Starter output – relay - BLACK/ white - ignition switch, white 8 pin plug, pin 3
H2/19 (-) Trunk Pin – n/a
H2/20 Diesel Wait to start – n/a
H2/21 Turbo Timer – n/a
H2/22 (-) Accessory Output – n/a
H2/23 Tach input - BLACK/ white - data link connector, white 16 pin plug, pin 9
H2/24 (-) OEM Alarm Arm Output – purple - driver kick, gray 10 pin plug, pin 4

H3/1 (+) Ignition 1 - BLACK/ red - ignition switch, white 8 pin plug, pin 6
H3/2 (+) Ignition 2/Flex Relay input – 12v WHITE/ red - white 8 pin plug, pin 5
H3/3 (+) Accessory Output – n/a
H3/4 (+) Starter Output (car side) - GREEN/ black - ignition switch, white 8 pin plug, pin 7
H3/5 (+) Starter Input (Key Side) - GREEN/ black - ignition switch, white 8 pin plug, pin 7
H3/6 (+) Fused Ignition 1 input – 12v WHITE/ red - white 8 pin plug, pin 5
H3/7 (+) Ignition 2/Flex Relay Output - blue / YELLOW - ignition switch, white 8 pin plug, pin 1
H3/8 (+) Flex Relay input – n/a
H3/9 (+) Fused Accessory/Starter Input – 12v WHITE/ red - white 8 pin plug, pin 5
H3/10 – n/a

Door Lock 3 pin connector is not used

PKALL Connections

Connector 1 – D2D – to Viper 5904

Connector 2
PURPLE / White – Data 1 – Light GREEN/ Black- ECM Behind glove box, SPLICE into Pin 20
Yellow/Black – Data 2 – Blue/White - ECM Behind glove box, Cut wire, ECM Side (??)
Blue/White – Ground while running – H1/6 - blue/white Viper
Green – n/a (Keysense??)
Pink – n/a
Black – n/a
 
Connector 3
Light Green – Same connection as yellow/black…(??)
ORANGE / Brown –  Blue/white - ECM Behind glove box, Cut wire, Car Side (??)
ORANGE / Green – n/a
Brown – n/a

Thanks!

Jason




Replies:

Posted By: kreg357
Date Posted: October 18, 2012 at 5:58 PM

One correction so far :

H1/6 not used.  PKALL Blue/White goes to Viper H2/9.  Status Out = Ground When Running



-------------
Soldering is fun!




Posted By: kreg357
Date Posted: October 18, 2012 at 6:03 PM
If 2013 is the same as 2012, Viper H3/3 Orange should go to WHITE/ Green @ ignition switch, white 8 pin plug, pin 2.

-------------
Soldering is fun!




Posted By: jmat72
Date Posted: October 18, 2012 at 6:07 PM

Wow you are fast, thanks for the corrections!

Here is the link to the PKALL manuals, I am using the Tacoma G Key pdf and that is where I got the wiring for the PKALL.

https://www.xpresskit.com/product.aspx?productid=196

Thanks again,

Jason





Posted By: kreg357
Date Posted: October 18, 2012 at 6:11 PM

For another source of +12V constant power, most Toyota's have a thick gauge wire ( usually White or Black ) at the
front of the fuse box.  It is usually rated at over 100 Amps.

Yes, that is the correct PKALL install guide to use.  Just make sure the PKALL has the latest firmware loaded. ( Ver 4.07 ? )

Here is a link to a WEB site that has photos of the connection location / wires for the bypass module : 
https://www.checkyourground.com/



-------------
Soldering is fun!




Posted By: jmat72
Date Posted: October 18, 2012 at 6:29 PM

Thanks again!





Posted By: kreg357
Date Posted: October 18, 2012 at 6:39 PM

Glad to help.  Bulldog shows the 2009 - 2012 as the same.  If the 2013 is also the same, here is a link to a nice pictorial on a 2010 ( no G key ) :

https://www.the12volt.com/installbay/forum_posts.asp~TID~130004~PN~1



-------------
Soldering is fun!




Posted By: jmat72
Date Posted: October 18, 2012 at 9:52 PM
Thanks for the links. I just checked my PKALL and it is ver 4.06, I hope that is late enough.

I will be doing the install this weekend, so I will report back if the wiring is different. I sure hope not.




Posted By: jmat72
Date Posted: October 18, 2012 at 9:55 PM
At least according to the install sheet, it says firmware 4.0 or higher, so I should be good.




Posted By: kreg357
Date Posted: October 18, 2012 at 10:08 PM

Yes, PKALL Ver 4.0 was the cut-over point.  Anything higher will work.

Please post you results.  posted_image  



-------------
Soldering is fun!




Posted By: jmat72
Date Posted: October 18, 2012 at 10:44 PM
Sorry, last couple of questions on the relays. Do I need them for the parking lights and piezo?

Thanks




Posted By: kreg357
Date Posted: October 19, 2012 at 1:57 AM

Your Viper Parking Light connection to the trucks Green (-) Parking Light wire at the Headlight switch does not require a relay.  Just remember to set the Vipers' internal jumper/fuse accordingly ( think it comes set to positive, if it didn't shake loose during shipping ).  You wouldn't need a relay if you decided to connect to the trucks' (+) Green Parking Light wire at the fuse box, either.

Not sure what the current draw is on your piezo.  Not sure what the max current rating is on the Vipers' siren output either.  Perhaps another forum member has that Viper info and can jump in.



-------------
Soldering is fun!




Posted By: howie ll
Date Posted: October 19, 2012 at 11:04 AM
Fuse not shake out during shipping?
Tell me about it.
Factory Siren should be under 1.5 amps, piezo less.

-------------
Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.




Posted By: jmat72
Date Posted: October 20, 2012 at 10:58 PM

Well, just got done with initial install and all wires are correct.  The imi wires on correct on the pdf from xpresskit, they are different from the ones in the link provided above.

I do have a quesiton.  After starting the vehicle, either remote start or with the key, after shutting it off, the engine makes a weird sucking noise, for lack of a better description.  Any ideas?  The truck seems to be fine, it's just right after shut down, it makes a little extra noise, witch I don't think was there before.

I am continuing to test, right now.

Jason

 





Posted By: jmat72
Date Posted: October 20, 2012 at 10:59 PM

I mean correct as noted above...  Hopefully I connected them all correctly!





Posted By: jmat72
Date Posted: October 20, 2012 at 11:51 PM

Ok, did some more testing.  When the alarm is off and the car is remote started, the doors remain unlocked.  However, if you use the remote to shut down the remote start, the doors LOCK a few seconds after the car shuts off.

I have the ignition lock/unlock set to on in the bit writer menu, but that doesn't seem to work.  I thought that meant the doors lock when the car is startted, perhaps this only works if the 3 pin harness is used?  I didn't use it because I was using the factory arm/disarm. Now that I type this, this makes sense.  However, the doors locking a few seconds after the remote shut down doesn't make sense.  If I press the disarm button on the remote, they unlock and I get the disarm chirp.  I also tried to see if opening the door (had the window opened and unlocked the door) to see if the factory alarm or something would go off and nothing happens.

Last thing I noticed on the remote start is that when I use thre key and turn the ignition on after remote starting, the anti grind works, but the whole truck almost shuts off, it's like it is cutting power to everything like you when you start the car, but it doesn't grind.  I am wondering if this is normal on the Toyota, on my Silverado, when you turn the key, it doesn't do anything.

Regards





Posted By: jmat72
Date Posted: October 22, 2012 at 12:03 AM

Ok, just to close the loop on this for anyone out there doing this on a new Tacoma..

The whooshing/sucking noise is normal, it is the smog pump.  Found that on another forum.

For the record, I ended up using the lock/unlock 3 pin harness and connecting it to the factory arm/disarm wires.  I did not use the arm/disarm wires on the Viper or the loc/unlock wires on the truck.  This solved everything.  Truck remains locked when remote started and they now also lock on ignition and unlock when shut off. I did set the alarm up for that.

Thanks for the help.  The hardest part of the whole install is organizing all of the wires and the brain and finding a place to mount everything.  There is not much room under the dash and with the parking brake, there are a lot of moving pieces to avoid.

Jason





Posted By: imports4life
Date Posted: October 22, 2012 at 10:20 AM
jmat72 wrote:

Hi All,


Long time lurker, first time poster.  I have searched and researched literally hours on this and this is what I have come up with.  It’s been a while since I have installed an alarm and I want to make sure I have all of the correct connections.  I am assuming the 2013 is the same as the 2012.


I am installing a Viper 5904 into a 2013 Toyota Tacoma Double Cab, V6, Automatic, with a “G” key.  Can you guys review the wiring I have below and let me know if I’ve got it all correct?  I have some questions regarding which connections require relays and also the PKALL bypass.  I downloaded the instructions for the “G” key, I am a little fuzzy on the Data 2 wire and the keysense.


This post was very helpful, but it does not look like I need to use the keysense wire and the tx/rx for the bypass are in a different location.


https://www.the12volt.com/installbay/forum_posts.asp~TID~130004


Also, will the WHITE/ red wire at the ignition switch be enough to power all of the relays, including those on the H3 harness?  The wiring diagram I have says that there is another 12v constant at the ignition switch (WHITE/ blue), should I use that for the relays?


From what I gather I will need a total of 3 relays – horn honk, dome light and starter 2.  And perhaps one more each for the parking lights and piezo siren?


Sorry for the long post, thanks in advance to anyone who reads and responds!



Viper 5904 Connections


H1/1 12v Constant – WHITE/ red - ignition switch, white 8 pin plug, pin 5
H1/2 ground - ground
H1/3 (+) siren – positive of siren, will this support a piezo siren as well, or should this be on a relay?
H1/4 Parking light isolation wire – n/a
H1/5 Parking light output (relay?) – green - headlight switch, white 20 pin plug, pin 18 (Set jumper to negative)
H1/6 Ground when Armed – blue/white - PKALL


H2/1 Ignition/Flex Relay Control Output – n/a
H2/2 Neutral Safety Input - ground
H2/3 2nd status – n/a
H2/4 OEM Alarm Disarm Output – GREEN/ black - driver kick, gray 10 pin plug, pin 8, set to double pulse
H2/5 Trunk release – n/a
H2/6 (-) Door Trigger input – GREEN/ YELLOW - dash fuse box, white 18 pin plug (1F), pin 7 (will this work for all 4 doors?)
H2/7 (-) Dome light supervision – relay- blue - dash fuse box, black 13 pin plug (1E), pin 9
H2/8 (-) Horn Honk Output – relay - GREEN/ red - dash fuse box, white 18 pin plug (1C), pin 10
H2/9 Status Output – n/a
H2/10 Ignition 1 output – n/a
H2/11 Aux 3 output - n/a
H2/12 (+) Door trigger input – n/a
H2/13 Aux 1 output - n/a
H2/14 Aux 2 output - n/a
H2/15 Aux 4 output - n/a
H2/16 (+) Brake Shutdown – blue - dash fuse box, white 13 pin plug (1D), pin 13
H2/17 (-) Hood pin input – hood pin
H2/18 (-) Starter output – relay - BLACK/ white - ignition switch, white 8 pin plug, pin 3
H2/19 (-) Trunk Pin – n/a
H2/20 Diesel Wait to start – n/a
H2/21 Turbo Timer – n/a
H2/22 (-) Accessory Output – n/a
H2/23 Tach input - BLACK/ white - data link connector, white 16 pin plug, pin 9
H2/24 (-) OEM Alarm Arm Output – purple - driver kick, gray 10 pin plug, pin 4


H3/1 (+) Ignition 1 - BLACK/ red - ignition switch, white 8 pin plug, pin 6
H3/2 (+) Ignition 2/Flex Relay input – 12v WHITE/ red - white 8 pin plug, pin 5
H3/3 (+) Accessory Output – n/a
H3/4 (+) Starter Output (car side) - GREEN/ black - ignition switch, white 8 pin plug, pin 7
H3/5 (+) Starter Input (Key Side) - GREEN/ black - ignition switch, white 8 pin plug, pin 7
H3/6 (+) Fused Ignition 1 input – 12v WHITE/ red - white 8 pin plug, pin 5
H3/7 (+) Ignition 2/Flex Relay Output - blue / YELLOW - ignition switch, white 8 pin plug, pin 1
H3/8 (+) Flex Relay input – n/a
H3/9 (+) Fused Accessory/Starter Input – 12v WHITE/ red - white 8 pin plug, pin 5
H3/10 – n/a


Door Lock 3 pin connector is not used


PKALL Connections


Connector 1 – D2D – to Viper 5904


Connector 2
PURPLE / White – Data 1 – Light GREEN/ Black- ECM Behind glove box, SPLICE into Pin 20
Yellow/Black – Data 2 – Blue/White - ECM Behind glove box, Cut wire, ECM Side (??)
Blue/White – Ground while running – H1/6 - blue/white Viper
Green – n/a (Keysense??)
Pink – n/a
Black – n/a
 
Connector 3
Light Green – Same connection as yellow/black…(??)
ORANGE / Brown –  Blue/white - ECM Behind glove box, Cut wire, Car Side (??)
ORANGE / Green – n/a
Brown – n/a


Thanks!


Jason





Did you get everything to work right jason? I am using your diagram to make sure i have my connections right. im using the viper 5704 same as yours just without the color display and im also using the pkall bypass as well so this is really helpful to me. Did you need any of the relays you where talking about? If so for which things? Im installing mine into a 2006 toyota/scion tc.




Posted By: jmat72
Date Posted: October 22, 2012 at 10:25 AM

Yes, I got everything working correctly, with the changes made in the following posts.  I did use a relay for the horn, starter 2 and the dome light supervision.  I would search around, I don't think the wiring is going to be the same in a Scion tc.





Posted By: imports4life
Date Posted: October 22, 2012 at 10:50 AM
jmat72 wrote:

Yes, I got everything working correctly, with the changes made in the following posts.  I did use a relay for the horn, starter 2 and the dome light supervision.  I would search around, I don't think the wiring is going to be the same in a Scion tc.





starter2 being "H2/18 (-) Starter output – relay - BLACK/ white - ignition switch, white 8 pin plug, pin 3" right? what relay did you use/ what amperage and everything(can be found at radio shack?)? And im changing the wiring diagrams from your truck to my car but i was talking about the layout of where the wires connect to.




Posted By: imports4life
Date Posted: October 22, 2012 at 10:56 AM
jmat72 wrote:

Yes, I got everything working correctly, with the changes made in the following posts.  I did use a relay for the horn, starter 2 and the dome light supervision.  I would search around, I don't think the wiring is going to be the same in a Scion tc.





also could you tell me where you pkall wires went? you had question marks everywhere on it so im a bit worried about that lol.




Posted By: jmat72
Date Posted: October 22, 2012 at 10:58 AM
I used a standard relay.  Not sure if they have them at radio shack, I would assume so.  I connected it like rascal737 and kreg357 laid in the post I have linked in my OP.  Pin 86 and 87 to 12v, pin 85 to H2/18 and pin 30 to starter wire 2 (BLACK/ white).




Posted By: jmat72
Date Posted: October 22, 2012 at 11:01 AM

If you read the following posts, kreg357 corrected my wiring from the alarm to the PKALL.  As for the PKALL wiring, you can use the link I had in the one of the posts and find your Scion on the list of pdfs (assuming it is supported) and that will tell you how to wire it up.





Posted By: imports4life
Date Posted: October 22, 2012 at 12:11 PM
Last question: on the shock sensor does the green wire connect somewhere or is that for extra sensors?




Posted By: jmat72
Date Posted: October 22, 2012 at 12:25 PM

Doesn't connect to anything.  Don't make the same mistake as I did.  My warn away wasn't working and I just googled it, the green loop needs to be on the sensor side and the loose green needs to be on the brain side.  They should have made the molex unique so it only works one way.  Now I have to get back under the dash and switch them.





Posted By: imports4life
Date Posted: October 24, 2012 at 5:48 PM
for all the 12v wires did you connect it straight to the one 12v source in ignition harness? im a little worried about doing that because the remote start wires are about the same guage as the 12v source and i have like 3-4 to connect to it.




Posted By: howie ll
Date Posted: October 24, 2012 at 6:00 PM
Think logically. If the feed wire is thinner than the R/S wires, it doesn't matter yours will handle the current!
But then if it was much thicker, I'd worry.

-------------
Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.




Posted By: kreg357
Date Posted: October 24, 2012 at 6:01 PM
kreg357 wrote:

For another source of +12V constant power, most Toyota's have a thick gauge wire ( usually White or Black ) at the
front of the fuse box.  It is usually rated at over 100 Amps.


Did you check the front of the fuse box?



-------------
Soldering is fun!




Posted By: imports4life
Date Posted: October 24, 2012 at 8:49 PM
kreg357 wrote:

kreg357 wrote:


For another source of +12V constant power, most Toyota's have a thick gauge wire ( usually White or Black ) at the
front of the fuse box.  It is usually rated at over 100 Amps.




Did you check the front of the fuse box?




yes i did find a big white wire but it was big!! like 1 or 0 guage my wire strippers where to small to cut it lol i guess i will get a razor blade and put the multimeter to it tomorrow and test. should i put a fuse on it before i connect it to that big wire?




Posted By: kreg357
Date Posted: October 25, 2012 at 12:40 AM
That big White wire is already fused in the engine compartment.  If it tests as +12V constant, just strip off some insulation in a convenient place and connect & solder on the +12V power wires from the Viper 5904 ( which are themselves already fused ).  If you do it "hot", just be careful not to ground out your solder, soldering iron, etc and remove the Vipers fuses until the all install connections are finished.  You will need a 140 watt or better soldering gun.

-------------
Soldering is fun!




Posted By: spacejunk
Date Posted: December 20, 2012 at 11:52 PM
So would I be correct to assume a PKALL data transponder is not needed if I am not installing a remote start in a 2013 Taoma?

Thanks!




Posted By: eddiebx
Date Posted: December 21, 2012 at 2:53 AM
That's right, no need for the PKALL with an alarm only install. The PKALL is for transponder bypassing which would not be required if you don't plan to bypass the transponder posted_image




Posted By: spacejunk
Date Posted: December 21, 2012 at 10:02 AM
eddiebx wrote:

That's right, no need for the PKALL with an alarm only install. The PKALL is for transponder bypassing which would not be required if you don't plan to bypass the transponder posted_image


That's great to hear as I drive a stick and always leave it in gear.

Thanks for the prompt response!




Posted By: lucasoil4u
Date Posted: December 21, 2012 at 11:30 AM
Can you tell me what a G key is?




Posted By: eddiebx
Date Posted: December 22, 2012 at 3:40 PM
lucasoil4u wrote:

Can you tell me what a G key is?


Look on the metal stem of your key right near the base where it connects to the plastic. There should be a little G stamped into the metal.




Posted By: toytaco13
Date Posted: January 12, 2013 at 1:55 PM

Can somebody confirm that I am following step by step connections and corrections for this install, and explain to my noob azz how to run the 3 relays used?From what I've gathered on how to run 1out of 3 relays is to relay  viper H2/18(-) Starter Output.So from the wiring diagram Second & Third relays go to h2/7(-) Dome Light Supervison & H2/8 (-) Honk Honk Output.For 2nd & 3rd relay, do i use seperate relays for each and same kind of relay as used for the viper H2/18??I would appreciate if someone can explain it noob style on my confusion with the relays connections, and look over my edited wiring diagram that I gathered from original Jmats post and all corrections made.Thank you in advance!

 

Viper 5904 Connections

H1/1 12v Constant – WHITE/ red - ignition switch, white 8 pin plug, pin 5

H1/2 ground - ground

H1/3 (+) siren – positive of siren, will this support a piezo siren as well, or should this be on a

relay?

H1/4 Parking light isolation wire – n/a

H1/5 Parking light output (relay?) – green - headlight switch, white 20 pin plug, pin 18 (Set

jumper to negative)

H1/6 Ground when Armed – not used

H2/1 Ignition/Flex Relay Control Output – n/a

H2/2 Neutral Safety Input - ground

H2/3 2nd status – n/a

H2/4 OEM Alarm Disarm Output-not used?

H2/5 Trunk release – n/a

H2/6 (-) Door Trigger input – GREEN/ YELLOW - dash fuse box, white 18 pin plug (1F), pin 7 (will this

work for all 4 doors?)

H2/7 (-) Dome light supervision – relay- blue - dash fuse box, black 13 pin plug (1E), pin 9

H2/8 (-) Horn Honk Output – relay - GREEN/ red - dash fuse box, white 18 pin plug (1C), pin 10

H2/9 Status Output – pkall blue/white

H2/10 Ignition 1 output – n/a

H2/11 Aux 3 output - n/a

H2/12 (+) Door trigger input – n/a

H2/13 Aux 1 output - n/a

H2/14 Aux 2 output - n/a

H2/15 Aux 4 output - n/a

H2/16 (+) Brake Shutdown – blue - dash fuse box, white 13 pin plug (1D), pin 13

H2/17 (-) Hood pin input – hood pin

H2/18 (-) Starter output – relay - BLACK/ white - ignition switch, white 8 pin plug, pin 3

H2/19 (-) Trunk Pin – n/a

H2/20 Diesel Wait to start – n/a

H2/21 Turbo Timer – n/a

H2/22 (-) Accessory Output – n/a

H2/23 Tach input - BLACK/ white - data link connector, white 16 pin plug, pin 9

H2/24 (-) OEM Alarm Arm Output – purple - driver kick, gray 10 pin plug, pin 4

H3/1 (+) Ignition 1 - BLACK/ red - ignition switch, white 8 pin plug, pin 6

H3/2 (+) Ignition 2/Flex Relay input – 12v WHITE/ red - white 8 pin plug, pin 5

H3/3 (+) Accessory Output – WHITE/ green@ignition switch white 8pin plug pin2

H3/4 (+) Starter Output (car side) - GREEN/ black - ignition switch, white 8 pin plug, pin 7

H3/5 (+) Starter Input (Key Side) - GREEN/ black - ignition switch, white 8 pin plug, pin 7

H3/6 (+) Fused Ignition 1 input – 12v WHITE/ red - white 8 pin plug, pin 5

H3/7 (+) Ignition 2/Flex Relay Output - blue / YELLOW - ignition switch, white 8 pin plug, pin 1

H3/8 (+) Flex Relay input – n/a

H3/9 (+) Fused Accessory/Starter Input – 12v WHITE/ red - white 8 pin plug, pin 5

H3/10 – n/a

Door Lock 3 pin connector -(factory arm/disarm wires?)? what wires to what factory wires?

PKALL Connections

Connector 1 – D2D – to Viper 5904

Connector 2

PURPLE / White – Data 1 – Light GREEN/ Black- ECM Behind glove box, SPLICE into Pin 20

Yellow/Black – Data 2 – Blue/White - ECM Behind glove box, Cut wire, ECM Side (??)

Blue/White – Ground while running – H1/6 - blue/white Viper

Green – n/a (Keysense??)

Pink – n/a

Black – n/a

Connector 3

Light Green – Same connection as yellow/black…(??)

ORANGE / Brown – Blue/white - ECM Behind glove box, Cut wire, Car Side (??)

ORANGE / Green – n/a

Brown – n/a

*********

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Posted By: jmat72
Date Posted: January 13, 2013 at 5:11 PM
I don't do this for a living, so the details are already fuzzy for me. I did this on my cousin's truck, so I don't have it here to look at.

From what I remember, there was already some wiring done either at the factory or at the dealer for an alarm. There were already t taps on the arm/disarm wires and the door triggers. The door trigger t taps already had them diode isolated, so I didn't have to worry about that.

You need separate relays for the horn honk and the dome light. Elsewhere on the site, there are detailed descriptions on how they should be wired. But, I think earlier in the thread pretty much covered it. If they are both negative, then they would be wired the same. All of the relays are the same type.

I would also mention that cutting the wires at the ECM for the PKALL is not for the faint of heart. There are a million wires there and they are really thin gauge. On top of that, there is hardly any slack, so you can't screw up...

Jason





Posted By: toytaco13
Date Posted: January 13, 2013 at 10:59 PM

Do you remeber why you used a relay for the dome&honk honk?From what I've searched and seen on other similiar installs on Tacomas, no one else used relays for those two, but other post werent the same year car as ours..





Posted By: jmat72
Date Posted: January 14, 2013 at 11:31 AM

I used relays because I don't think the alarm outputs enough to drive the circuits.  You could try not using relays, but you could burn out the output on the alarm if the dome light/horn draw too much current.  At least that is the thought process.  Like I said, I don't do this for a living, just know enough to be dangerous..

Jason





Posted By: cruzs2013sr5
Date Posted: May 03, 2013 at 9:07 PM
kreg357 wrote:

One correction so far :


H1/6 not used.  PKALL Blue/White goes to Viper H2/9.  Status Out = Ground When Running




Would this apply to a Python 574 on the same exact vehicle as well?

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Cruzer




Posted By: howie ll
Date Posted: May 03, 2013 at 9:23 PM
Yes all DEI   52/54/57/59/04 share their wiring and installation.

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Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.




Posted By: bowilson
Date Posted: August 12, 2013 at 7:36 PM
I have a Clifford 5904. It is mirrored off the viper 5904.
I installed it using the directions in this post.
The starter won't engage when I use the remote start.
I am using a omegalink bypass module. OL-AL-MIB-TL5(1.2) Document number 11803.
There are two wires used on this module other than the datalink cable that connects directly to the Clifford unit.
One wire ORANGE / black goes the the immobilizer wire located at the data connector (obd II) located under the dash.Yhe other goes to BLACK/ red Ignition 1 located at the ignition switch. I can crank the truck with the key and use the rmote start to keep the truck running after I remove the key but I cant get the remote start to engage the starter. It will activate the lights on the dash gauges like the key does but no starter engagement. Any help would be greatly appreciated.




Posted By: kreg357
Date Posted: August 12, 2013 at 9:37 PM
See PM

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Soldering is fun!




Posted By: blu1080
Date Posted: September 02, 2013 at 5:56 PM
I have a Viper 5704 and I followed these instructions and everything works great except the remote start. I can start it with the key and push the remote start button to keep it turned on, but it will not turn over on it's own.
There is 12v to the violet wire when the remote start is activated, but nothing happens. I'm using the PKALL and it seems to be working fine, because the truck stays running without the key in it. Even if i leave the key in the ignition the truck will not start with the remote start. Any advice will help thanks in advance!




Posted By: blu1080
Date Posted: September 02, 2013 at 8:29 PM
I got it figured out! Apparently I need to read moreposted_image




Posted By: tacoma13
Date Posted: February 26, 2014 at 10:25 PM
Did this setup require Diodes, like other similar installs?From what I see is H2-6 goes grn / YELLOW, or am not following correctly?

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VP74




Posted By: freqsounds
Date Posted: February 27, 2014 at 7:57 AM
It'd be best to ask this in a new thread. This one's pretty old. If it's older than 30 days, it's resurrection and can get your account disabled -- just a heads up!

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No question is stupid or not worth asking. You were once a noob, right? :)




Posted By: spartacus12.lg
Date Posted: August 04, 2014 at 11:22 AM
I am new to this forum and saw your posting for the install of the viper alarm. I am installing an avital 5303 on the same 2013 tacoma with the g key but am having a problem getting it to crank. I did not understand the wiring for the flex relay. Could you provide a wiring diagram. Also I am using an Xpress kit pkall. You mentioned the wires were at the ecm. Is the connector black. I could not get the pics for the location from the pics provided in the link. Thanks

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spartacus12





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