viper 5204 in a 2000 mitsubishi mirage

I am trying to install this in my car but the install manual I found is less help than I thought. I have the wire diagram for the car from this site but I am having a hard time merging the two into one cohesive process. Any help would be great. I can post the 5204 wire break down as well as the 2000 mirage if needed. Thank you

H1/1_RED-white H1/1_BLACK-ground(Auto Trans H2/2_BLACK/ White)H3/1_PINK-BLACK/ white H3/2_RED / WHITE-BLACK/ white H3/3_ORANGE-blue/white H3/4_VIOLET-(cut)BLACK / YELLOW H3/5_GREEN/ (cut)BLACK / YELLOW H3/6_RED-white H3/7_PINK/WHITE-blue/black H3/8_PINK/BLACK-n/a H3/9_RED / BLACK-white

This should be easier to follow.

• H1/1_RED        white        12v
• H1/2_BLACK     ground chasis (Also for Auto Trans H2/2_BLACK/ White)
  
  
• H3/1_PINK       BLACK/ white Ignition
• H3/2_RED / WHITE       BLACK/ white Ignition
• H3/3_ORANGE       blue/white Accessory
• H3/4_VIOLET       (cut)BLACK / YELLOW To Starter
• H3/5_GREEN       (cut)BLACK / YELLOW Keyside
• H3/6_RED       white 12v
• H3/7_PINK/WHITE       blue/black 2nd Ignition
• H3/8_PINK/BLACK       n/a
• H3/9_RED / BLACK       white 12v

Thank you. I will go through my pre-install check with this info. It will be of tremendous help.

Try to get as much as you can if there are any specifics post back. Most people get lost with the H3 wiring especially the Flex relay for the second ignition. Which it is already set to in the unit.

Well alarm is up and running. Have not tested remote start yet. Problem is that the unlock function is working fine. The lock is not. As soon as I touch the wire the locks go crazy and do not work in either firectuin . With only unlock connected to light GREEN/ black, I have no issues, only unlock works obviously. The lock wire is hot, maybe needs to be reversed polarity?

There are 3 basic system types:
“Type A” Door Lock Test (Most GMs and most Chryslers)
Probe both of your door lock wires going to the door lock switch these wires are usually located in
the driver’s kick panel, attach one end of your test light to a good chassis ground. Using the vehicle’s
door lock controls, activate the lock then the unlock testing both wires one at a time. If the test
light illuminates when you probe the lock and the unlock wires your vehicle has a “Type A” door locking
system. Make sure to mark which wire is lock and unlock.
“Type B” Door Lock Test (Most Imports, some newer Fords)
Probe both door lock wires going to the door lock switch these wires are usually located in the driver’s
kick panel. Attach one end of your test light to +12V using the vehicle’s door lock controls activate
the lock then the unlock testing both wires one at a time. If the test light illuminates when you probe
the lock and the unlock wires your vehicle has a “Type B” door locking system. Make sure to mark which
wire is lock and unlock.
“Type C” Door Lock Test (Most Fords, some Chryslers, GM Trucks)
Using your test light probe both the lock and the unlock wires usually located in the driver’s kick
panel. Attach one end of your test light to ground probing both wires one at a time while locking and
unlocking the doors with the driver’s side switch (usually the master switch). The test light should
illuminate in both switch positions. Now attach one end of your test light to +12V constant, probe both
wires one at a time again. The light should then illuminate again only in reverse order. This tells you
that you have a “Type C” reversing polarity system. Make sure to mark which wire is lock and unlock.

Sounds like you need to verify lock type with the above post, but I would lean towards a type c reverse polarity. If the lock wire reads +12v when switch is pressed.

The problem seem to be the viper alarm. One wire the unlock is 0v when dormant, 500mv when button pushed. The lock wire is always 500mv. So when I connect it to the vehicle it causes the locks to lock and then the alarm unlock no longer works and the vehicles button do not either

The problem seem to be the viper alarm. One wire the unlock is 0v when dormant, 500mv when button pushed. The lock wire is always 500mv. So when I connect it to the vehicle it causes the locks to lock and then the alarm unlock no longer works and the vehicles button do not either

The unlock function works when it is the only wire connected. And when connected to vehicle lock wire it locks the doors when unlock button is pushed. I can figure out how to change the output of the viper lock wire to match the unlock.

Also other then the door monitor, tach and dome light, do I need to connect any other wires from H2 harness?

The locks in the 2000 Mirage should be Type B (-).  You should be able to connect the Viper 5204 lock output
wires ( Green and Blue ) directly to the correct vehicles wires.  Info below from Ready Remote and Bulldog :
 
Power Lock       lt. GREEN/ black  (-)      in White Plug @ bottom of the fuse box  
Power Unlock   blue/white  (-)   in White Plug @ bottom of the fuse box

Assuming you have factory power locks ( not after-market ).

To locate, test and verify these wires, set your DMM to 20V DC, connect the Red test lead to +12V constant and the
Black test lead to the suspect wire.  When the suspect signal is present, the DMM will read +12V.

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Soldering is fun!

Yes on H2 wire connections...

H2/1 PINK/WHITE (-) 200mA IGNITION/FLEX RELAY CONTROL OUTPUT         Not Used
H2/2 BLACK/ WHITE (-) NEUTRAL SAFETY INPUT              Chassis Ground if Automatic Transmission
H2/3 BLUE/WHITE (-) 200mA 2ND STATUS /REAR DEFOGGER OUTPUT         Not Used
H2/4 GREEN/ BLACK (-) 200mA OEM ALARM DISARM OUTPUT     Not Used      
H2/5 RED / WHITE (-) 200mA TRUNK RELEASE OUTPUT              Not Used
H2/6 GREEN (-) DOOR TRIGGER INPUT (N/C* OR N/O)       
H2/7 BLACK / YELLOW (-) 200mA DOME LIGHT SUPERVISION OUTPUT
H2/8 BROWN / BLACK (-) 200mA HORN HONK OUTPUT   Optional
H2/9 DARK BLUE (-) 200mA STATUS OUTPUT      Not Used
H2/10 PINK (-) 200mA IGNITION 1 OUTPUT            Not Used
H2/11 WHITE/ BLACK (-) 200mA AUX 3 OUTPUT                 Not Used
H2/12 VIOLET (+) DOOR TRIGGER INPUT        
H2/13 WHITE/ VIOLET (-) 200mA AUX 1 OUTPUT                 Not Used
H2/14 VIOLET/BLACK (-) 200mA AUX 2 OUTPUT      Not Used
H2/15 ORANGE / BLACK (-) 200mA AUX 4 OUTPUT             Not Used
H2/16 BROWN (+) BRAKE SHUTDOWN INPUT                   GREEN (+)  @ SWITCH ABOVE BRAKE PEDAL
H2/17 GREY (-) HOOD PIN INPUT (N/C OR N/O)                 Viper supplied hood pin  -  important safety item
H2/18 VIOLET / YELLOW (-) 200mA STARTER OUTPUT     Not Used
H2/19 BLUE (-) TRUNK PIN/ INSTANT TRIGGER INPUT (N/C OR N/O)                GREEN/ red  (-)  at light in trunk
H2/20 GREY/BLACK (-) DIESEL WAIT TO START INPUT                 Not Used
H2/21 WHITE/ BLUE (-) REMOTE START/ TURBO TIMER ACTIVATION INPUT    Not Used
H2/22 ORANGE (-) 200mA ACCESSORY OUTPUT   Not Used
H2/23 VIOLET/WHITE TACHOMETER INPUT ON THE 1.5L ENGINE, USE THE WHITE WIRE AT THE DISTRIBUTOR. 
ON THE 1.8L ENGINE, USE EITHER BLACK / YELLOW OR BLACK/ GREEN WIRE AT IGNITION COIL.
H2/24 GREEN / WHITE (-) 200mA OEM ALARM ARM OUTPUT          Not Used

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Soldering is fun!

I agree. I verified the wires and they were correct and factory installed. I think the viper alarm should not have a constant 500mv on lock wire.

What color is the lock wire on the vehicle that you tried to hook too noticed that the 2000 wiring on this site list it as blue/white for door lock but also lists driver lock as blue/red. If you are getting continuity on the lock wire from the Viper you mave have a bad or stuck ondoard relay. You did use diodes with the strip side towards the viper. If the relay is stuck you can pull the power from the viper and see if it resets, also rapping on the brain with something blunt (no power)like a handle of a screw driver may release it, and if not replacing the relay or sending it back are the only options left!

I believe it was blue/white, but i did not use a diode. I see why that would be a good idea by preventing reverse current flow into the unit. I will see if the brain is the issue. Thank you

Once again, many conflicts in the wiring guides. 

Info from Audiovox :
 Power Unlock    BLUE/WHITE  (-)           IN A WHITE PLUG NEAR VEHICLE FUSE PANEL  
 Power Lock        LIGHT GREEN/ BLACK  (-)      IN A WHITE PLUG NEAR VEHICLE FUSE PANEL

Info from Omega :
 Lock        BLACK/ RED (-)           AT DOOR LOCK CONTOL MODULE BEHIND DRIVER DASH
 Unlock    BLACK/ BLUE (-)         AT DOOR LOCK CONTOL MODULE BEHIND DRIVER DASH

Use a DMM to locate and verify...

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Soldering is fun!

When hooking up (-)negative triggers for door locks direct it is best to diode to protect not only the viper but the oem module as well.

Thank you all for all the help. Upon further inspection the cars lock wire sends a ground to the module to lock the doors. The viper alarm is sensed ad a ground therefore causing the doors to lock and stay locked. I will tryand use a transistor. When the lock button is pushed a .7 volt signal is felt. Thus should be bought to gate a transistor and allow the ground to be felt by the wire triggering the lock fuction. I will post tommorow if it works.

Then The viper lock relay is stuck closed or has failed try the rapping I suggested to see if it lets go. Otherwise replace relay or unit.

For a little update to all who helped me. The alarm is in the car and the locks finaly work. I ended up using a transistor as a switch so that the .7 volt signal from the alarm wire would trigger the ground to be felt on the wire therefore triggering the locking mechanism. Thank you for all the help.