advice on remote start dodge ram

Hello I'm new here, but I thought if anybody could help out on this topic it would be the people at this forum. Anyways on to my problem, I have a 2003 Dodge Ram 2500 diesel, automatic. and I have verified with the dealer using my vin that the truck has no sentry system installed at all on the truck , so I believe no need for the bypass part.

I have installed the python 5104, I also went ahead and ran the two relays for the lock/unlock, and the diode's to isolate the door triggers. Everything seems to be working great. The lock/unlock works fine for the remote, and once I alarm the truck all the doors trigger the alarm just as they are suppose to. Accept for the remote start.

First off there are a few connections that I'm unsure of on the remote start. I put * by all the ones I'm unsure of, the quick reference install guide didn't do a very good job of explaining what these control. Also when I go to try and get the unit in valet mode the , following the instructions the system never chirps when holding the valet controller button.The valet controller is flashing 3 times, and when I hit the remote start button the parking lights falsh 6 times.

H2/1 200ma ignition/Flex relay control output- Dark blue 16awg / at the ignition harness

**Neutral Safety Switch H2/2- I have read I can just ground this , but unsure, because the system also comes with a separate switch with it own harness that it calls a neutral safety switch in the diagram, that says has to be plugged in and switched on.

H2/3 (-)200ma 2nd status/rear defogger output= not used

H2/4 (-)200ma OEM Alarm disarm output= not used(no oem alarm)

H2/5(-)200ma trunk release output= not used (no trunk)

H2/6 (-) Door trigger input= hooked up and working properly

H2/7(-)200ma dome light output= hooked up and working properly

H2/8(-)200ma horn honk output=hooked up and working properly

**H2/9 (-)ma status output= not hooked up (unsure)

H2/10(-)200ma Ignition 1 output= RED / White wire 16Awg/at Ignition harness

H2/11 (-)200ma Aux 3 output Not used

H2/12 (+) door trigger input= not used( door triggers off a (-) input

H2/12 (-) 200 ma aux 1 output= Not used

H2/14 (-) 200ma Aux 2 output= not used

H2/15 (-)200ma Aux 4 output= not used

H2/16 (+) Brake shutdown Input= WHITE/ tan wire/on brake pedal

**H2/17 (-) hood pin input= not hooked up/not sure if these needs a ground or if i can leave it not hooked up?

**H2/18 (-) 200ma stater output= not hooked up( not sure about this one)

H2/19(-) trunk pin= not hooked up

**H2/20= (-)Diesel wait to start= not hooked up/ shows I can't use the wait to start wire/ timer has to be used( does this wire still need to be hooked up?)

**H2/21(-) remote start/turbo timer activation input= not hooked up ( not sure about this)

H2/22(-) 200ma accessory output= not hooked up

H2/23 tachometer input= white green wire at ECM/ Crank sensor wire

H2/24(-)200ma OEM Alarm output= not used/ no oem alarm

REMOTE START

H3/1(+) ignition 1 input/output= Blue 16 Awg wire/ignition harness

H3/2(+) 12vdc constant input for ignition 2 and flex relays= pink/Black wire/ignition harness/verified 12 volts constant

H3/3(+) accessory output= GREEN/ orange wire/Ignition harness

H3/4 (+) starter output Yellow wire/ignition harness to starter

H3/5 (+) starter Input= yellow wire/ignition harness to key side

H3/6 (+) 12 volts constant for ignition 1 relay=RED / WHITE/ Ignition harness/ verified 12 volts constant

H3/7 (+) Ignition 2/Flex relay output=red wire/ignition harness

**H3/8 (+) Flex Relay Input 87a key side( if required of flex relay= not sure?

H3/9(+) 12 volts constant input for Acc and starter relays=BLACK/ orange wire ignition harness/ verified 12 volts

H3/10 =not used


Thanks for any input you might have!!

H2/2 NSS - Just ground it.
The switch it comes with is seperate, plug it in and leave it On.
H2/9 - Leave this unconnected, its used when you have a key bypass.
H2/10 - This is wrong, disconnect this wire. This wire is used to power a relay for another ignition 1 wire. (Could be why you can't remote start)
H2/17 - Leave unhooked, when this sees ground alarm will go off.
H2/18 - Leave unhooked, used to power another starter wire using a relay.
H2/20 - Leave unhooked, just use a delay before starting.
H2/21 - Leave unhooked, don't need this.
H3/8 - Dont need. leave unhooked.

Everything else looks okay make sure you have learned the tach, and have it set to Automatic mode. Also look to see what 6 flashes are?
But before doing anything I would disconnect H2/10

Are you trying to run two accessory wires from the ONE (orange H3/3), from the remote start? If so you need to disconnect one and use H2/22  to drive a relay for the second accessory.

Six flashes from the parking lights is hood pin is active

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"Are you trying to run two accessory wires from the ONE (orange H3/3), from the remote start? If so you need to disconnect one and use H2/22 to drive a relay for the second accessory."

This is true, when doing a similar truck I only powered one of the Acc wires, and left the other one (that powers the stereo) unconnected. As I rather not have the stereo on when the truck is remote started.

Thanks for all the good Intel . I'm gonna go make a few changes now, I'll report by and let you know how it goes.

If 6 flashes is hood pin open, and I deside not to hook this up can I just ground it?

It is a safety feature and should be connected. Not connecting it will allow the car to possibly remote start while someone is working around the engine and cause physical harm. However if you would like to test the unit without the hood pin connected (with plans on connecting it shortly after) then you can leave it disconnected.

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Kenny
Owner / Technician
KKD Garage LLC
Albany, NY 12205

Yes I'm going to hook it up, but just wanted to get every thing work first then go back and make everything look pretty.

I just made all the changes, and I believe I had it wrong before its not flashing 6 times its flashing 7 times. Any ideas as to what 7 flashes means?

I think 7 times means that the shutdown procedure hasn't been performed. (Going from memory)
You need to do manual car shutdown procedure.

I believe you start the car with the key. Then press the remote start button on the key fob. Turn the key off (car stays on). Exit the car, shut the door. Then lock the car, the car will shut off at this point.
Now you can try remote starting.

Did you learn the tach wire? Set the brain to tach mode in programming, and set it to automatic mode by programming?

7 flashes means you have the unit programmed from manual transmission mode but the unit was not activated for manual transmission start. If the truck is auto, go in and change the programming to turn MTS off


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Kenny
Owner / Technician
KKD Garage LLC
Albany, NY 12205

Remote starter is in Manual Transmission Mode Need to change it to Automatic. Your quick should have a chart with three menus as to where it is. I believe menu 3, Item 1, option 2.

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OK that's what I was assuming it was it says 7 flashes manual mode error. I'm not sure how to get to the valet/ programming mode though. The sheet I have says to open a door, turn the key to run then turn the key to off and hold down the valet button and I should get a chirp.I never get that chirp though, so I'm not sure if I'm doing it right or what.

Do you get a flash on the LED on the control center? If so that will correspond with the menu you are in, and also for the item you want within that menu.

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Make sure the door status input is receiving a signal as well as the main ignition wire at the unit.

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Kenny
Owner / Technician
KKD Garage LLC
Albany, NY 12205

The controller led is flashing 3 times, but its flashing 3 times no matter what I do.

The system sees the door input for sure, because when I arm the system, then use a key to unlock and open the door the alarm goes off. I will check the main ignition wire.

jcnance wrote:

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OK that's what I was assuming it was it says 7 flashes manual mode error. I'm not sure how to get to the valet/ programming mode though. The sheet I have says to open a door, turn the key to run then turn the key to off and hold down the valet button and I should get a chirp.I never get that chirp though, so I'm not sure if I'm doing it right or what.

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Tap oncce then hold see if that works, then relaease and tap 2 times to advance to menu 3 and hold. Once you get the 3 led flahes for menu 3 relaease and tap nummber of times for the function you want to change and hold then use remote to change (lock= selection1 or down for multi option, unlock=selection2 or up for multi option)

Well I'm happy to report all is well in remote start land! It ended up. Being the main ignition wire, the only one that I used one of those crap crimp over the top of the wires with out cutting having to cut and strip. Thanks offroad for point that out to check, and thanks to everyone else for all the other good help!

I still have one complanit tho. I was able to set the wait to start feature just fine. But call me picky but it seems like the starter is cranking to long. I wasn't sure how to skip thorough the crank times, so I went in and put it to the factory setting, which is the lowest crank time on the list at .6 sec. But the truck starts get between .3 and .4 and I really hate the thought and hate to hear the sound of the extra run time of the starter. Not sure if it will eventually burn the starter up or not.Any thoughts of shaving a little off the crank time?

The 0.6 Crank time is a maxium limit, setting the Menu 3 Item 2 (Engine Checking Mode) to Tach will limit based on tach input up to the set max crank time.
H2/23 VOILET/WHITE needs to be connected!

NOTE #7; the DIESEL tach wire is a GRAY/BLACK in the BLACK plug at the PCM (Powertrain
Control Module)