2005 envoy ignition

Hi all ,Just got a call from a customer that I installed a compustar r/s into her 2005 gmc envoy about 2 years ago. first of all the battery seems to be almost dead as she gets the infamous clicking when trying to start the vehicle with the key. But now she says she cannot turn the key in the ignition all the way to the off position. Apparently a GM tech told her that this was probably caused by feedback on the ignition switch from the remote start module.

Just wondering if anyone has come accross this or if there is any validity to this theory. Any help or suggestions would be greatly appreciated

Yep, another knowitall GM tech. Seriously doubt it...

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Mike M2
Tech Manager
CS Dealer Services

thanks for the reply Mike. I too had my doubts but thought I would put it out there just in case. I guess I could always unplug/remove the r/s to see if the key can then be removed

Being that the vehicle is 7 years old and probably on the original battery that can explain the condition of the battery.

In regards to the ignition not turning all the way to the off position, the shift lock solenoid actuator may be faulty. See the wiring diagram for circuit details.

Shift interlock circuit

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This information is provided only as a reference.
All circuits should be verified with a digital multi-meter prior to making any connections.

I did an install a few weeks ago on a 04 Buick Regal (GM vehicle) who's battery also died. The client was doing other electrical work on his car as I was installing a remote starter and kept the dome lights on while he worked.

Long story short, as I was testing wires, I noticed voltage dropped under 11v and I attempted to start the car with the key and it wouldn't. I tried to shut off the ign switch and the key stayed stuck with the keysense "dinging" and couldn't pull the key out immediately.

I turned the key a few times and finally it released. I'm thinking it may rely on having enough battery power to allow the solenoid to release.

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X2 with Frank.
As for the GM mechanic, he's playing the "blame the alarm" game to reduce your credibility.

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Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

howie ll wrote:

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X2 with Frank.
As for the GM mechanic, he's playing the "blame the alarm" game to reduce your credibility.

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Similar issue on a Grand Prix with dead battery... X3

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M.E.C.P & First-Class
Go slow and drink lots of water...Procrastinators' Unite...Tomorrow!

In response to what 91stt said, I think he is on the right track with the shift interlock solenoid. I have replaced a few of them. Check for a hole in the lower steering coloumn cover. It will line up with an emergency release. Gently press a round punch or similer tool to release the key.

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thetopinstaller

shortcircuit161 wrote:

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I did an install a few weeks ago on a 04 Buick Regal (GM vehicle) who's battery also died. The client was doing other electrical work on his car as I was installing a remote starter and kept the dome lights on while he worked.

Long story short, as I was testing wires, I noticed voltage dropped under 11v and I attempted to start the car with the key and it wouldn't. I tried to shut off the ign switch and the key stayed stuck with the keysense "dinging" and couldn't pull the key out immediately.

I turned the key a few times and finally it released. I'm thinking it may rely on having enough battery power to allow the solenoid to release.

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Same here!

I have a 2000 Cadillac Deville that I don't drive every day, and recently when I went to start it, the battery was dead.

I also was unable to remove the key until I hooked up jumper cables from another car.

P.S. Anytime a customer says that a mechanic or dealer says my installation caused something, I just ask them to get it in writing. The "technicians" who decide who's at fault without looking at the car, are usually not articulate enough to defend their diagnosis in writing even when they try.

In the early 90s I was doing a carphone install + audio in a 190 Mercedes.
The heater failed and the local Mercedes dealer blamed my install with a nice bill.
I refused to pay and insisted on an independent audit.
The audit asked how my wiring, six inches from a Bowden cable could cause any damage.
Naturally I heard no more.
The point is car dealers don't know it all, if you sensibly challenge them (if you feel you're in the right), they will back down.

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Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

Another point for the OP. 2 years ago?
Surely if it was down to you the problem would have occurred before two years.

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Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

You are correct, It needs battery power to release and or to turn to off. Stupid setup!