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2011 toyota fj remote start dball issues

Printed From: the12volt.com
Forum Name: Car Security and Convenience
Forum Discription: Car Alarms, Keyless Entries, Remote Starters, Immobilizer Bypasses, Sensors, Door Locks, Window Modules, Heated Mirrors, Heated Seats, etc.
URL: https://www.the12volt.com/installbay/forum_posts.asp?tid=132481
Printed Date: May 05, 2024 at 12:06 PM


Topic: 2011 toyota fj remote start dball issues

Posted By: macewank
Subject: 2011 toyota fj remote start dball issues
Date Posted: October 25, 2012 at 12:49 PM

2011 FJ Trail Teams edition. Installing a Viper 5704 Security+Remote Start system and using a XpressKit DB-ALL bypass module. We have everything hooked up according to the wiring diagrams. Lock/Unlock work on the remote starter, however, we are unable to get the DBALL to program.

The programming instructions for the DBALL say to enter programming mode and get a solid red light (we are able to get this far), then put the key in the ignition and turn it to "ON" (not started, just ON) and the light should turn green after 5ish seconds. My light continues to sit solid red, indicating that the DBALL unit is not receiving the ignition signal.

The truck will start just fine with the key, so thankfully it does not appear that the ECU is at fault. We've triple checked the wiring and everything looks fine, but we're at a loss. We did have to splice the 3 wires that run to the ECU behind the glovebox (I believe those wires were the IMI and and IMO) but I don't see why that would matter.

Does anyone have any ideas?



Replies:

Posted By: macewank
Date Posted: October 25, 2012 at 12:51 PM
macewank wrote:

We did have to splice the 3 wires that run to the ECU behind the glovebox


I should have clarified. We spliced them with some extra wire we had to extend them. The stock wires were too short to run across the vehicle.




Posted By: shortcircuit161
Date Posted: October 25, 2012 at 2:20 PM
First and foremost I would check the firmware and reflash.

Then I would check the IMI and IMO wire connections (they are finicky at times). Also check the CANbus connections. Shouldn't affect programming, but try reversing the 2 IMI connetions.

Are you running D2D? Try W2W and see if it makes a difference.

If all else fails, do what I do, buy an idatalink module. I can't stand DB-ALLs!! posted_image

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Posted By: buddholly
Date Posted: October 25, 2012 at 2:58 PM

Confirm that you have ignition power on both the gray/black and pink wires off the DB-ALL.  Also confirm or even try switching your Can Hi and Can Lo wires.

What symbol does the key have on it?



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Posted By: macewank
Date Posted: October 25, 2012 at 4:14 PM
buddholly wrote:

Confirm that you have ignition power on both the gray/black and pink wires off the DB-ALL.  Also confirm or even try switching your Can Hi and Can Lo wires.


What symbol does the key have on it?




We are running D2D for now. W2W is an option if we can't get this figured out though.

as for the wires: no power on the gray/black or pink, however, when we tied those wires into the actual ignition the dball sucessfully programmed with no sense (orange light). This leads me to believe that the IMO/IMI side of things is functioning properly, but that the issue is actually at the CANbus. Does that sound right?

The key has an L symbol.




Posted By: buddholly
Date Posted: October 25, 2012 at 6:25 PM

Those two wires should be showing ignition power or else the dball will not program.  Do you have them tied in to eachother? 

Try swapping the IMO/IMI wires and seeing if it will program succesfully after that.



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Posted By: macewank
Date Posted: November 01, 2012 at 9:33 AM
buddholly wrote:

Those two wires should be showing ignition power or else the dball will not program.  Do you have them tied in to eachother? 


Try swapping the IMO/IMI wires and seeing if it will program succesfully after that.




Thanks for the suggestion! We're going to tear into this thing again tonight and try to figure out what's going on. You've given us a start point :) Will let you know how it goes




Posted By: macewank
Date Posted: November 02, 2012 at 9:25 AM
got it working!

We verified that the wires (pink and grey/black) did have power, so the device was receiving Ignition correctly. We tinkered with just about everything and could not get the thing to program correctly with D2D. So we went W2W and everything was working.

One thing to note, if anyone digs this one up looking for info. One thing to make sure you do if you go from D2D to W2W.. Make sure you re-flash the DB-ALL and remove all of the senses. We spent about 15 minutes farting around with the thing. First, the starter kept cranking and wouldn't start, then the immobilizer kept engaging and shutting the vehicle off. Bottom line, the D2D senses conflict with the W2W wiring and if you don't shut all of it off nothing will work properly :)

Thanks everyone for the help. Jumped into a toasty truck this morning. Much appreciated!!





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