Printer Friendly Forum Posts - viper alarm triggers 5 mins after r start

2009 Nissan Sentra base, no factor keyless or alarm.

Viper 5701v

DLPK Module

The viper alarm module was installed w2w and works perfect.

Added DLPK for key transponder for remote start operation.

Car starts fine but after abut 4-5 mins of running, the alarm will sound and car shuts off.

About Install

I could not get the dlpk to program with just the High/Low bus wires to cars computer.

I had to hook up the DLPK status wire and ignition wire. I unplugged the viper modules door lock harness after dlpk because it was double locking/unlocking.

Car starts up perfect and runs well but after a few mins the alarm is triggered and it shuts down. Not sure where to go from here since it starts and runs for a few mins.

One thing that I did when installing the Alarm module that may be questionable was to only use the one accessory wire to drive accessory 1 and 2 one the Nissan. I did diode. isolate the wires and also checked for current draw and it was 80ma.

The first thing I would do is separate that single connection to both ACC wires.
The Viper system has a Pink Ignition wire, Pink/White 2nd IGN/2nd ACC (selectable) and an Orange ACC1 wire.
Depending on how you tested the current draw for that 2nd Acc wire or even the primary Acc wire, I doubt it's only going to pull 80mA when everything is running. Those small gauge wires are often rated at 10 amps or close to it. That may not have anything to do with why it's shutting off, but the manufacturer separated them for a reason. I would keep them separate.

The instructions for the DLPK show the GWR (status) and ignition wires have to be connected along with the CANbus wires to program correctly.
It shows 2 places to grab the CANbus wires but it needs ignition to know when to start programming.

Also, check that you have a solid ground connection and move it to another spot if necessary.

Check the install manual and run a shutdown diagnostic.

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shortcircuit161 wrote:

The first thing I would do is separate that single connection to both ACC wires.
The Viper system has a Pink Ignition wire, Pink/White 2nd IGN/2nd ACC (selectable) and an Orange ACC1 wire.
Depending on how you tested the current draw for that 2nd Acc wire or even the primary Acc wire, I doubt it's only going to pull 80mA when everything is running. Those small gauge wires are often rated at 10 amps or close to it. That may not have anything to do with why it's shutting off, but the manufacturer separated them for a reason. I would keep them separate.

to cont. side note from issue...

I know sounds strange about the acc wires. I tested them car on/off and switched on all acc and it would not draw more than 80ma. I even used two meters. Something I noticed is that when you +12v the acc wires you could hear relays clicking on and off under the dash. Seemed like the wires I taped into just activate relays. I will rewire them into the on board viper relays. thanks for the info

I'm reaching here I know but if you connected a door trigger does this vehicle have any processor sleep issues?
The other point as SS pointed out if you connect the ignition that should override the alarm during R/S anyway.
Also X 2 about separating the ACC wires you might be getting some feed back.
A case in point, some POS Peugeots (and thank your Gods you don't get that rubbish in North America) have 2 x ignition 1.
On R/S you have 2 relay isolate them because they are both normally live whilst cranking and if you have the alarm on during remote start it will immediately trigger the alarm.

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Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

Good Point Howie on the door trigger. In looking at the manual for the DLPK, it handles door, trunk and hood trigger via data.

How are these connected? Are they connected from the Viper to the car or to the module? or both? If you connected the trigger wires to the module, it's possible something could be falsing causing the alarm to trigger?

Is this wire connected to anything? -
H1/10 WHITE/ BLUE (-) REMOTE START/ TURBO TIMER ACTIVATION INPUT

I would definitely run a shutdown diagnostic and see what it's showing is getting triggered.

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shortcircuit161 wrote:

Good Point Howie on the door trigger. In looking at the manual for the DLPK, it handles door, trunk and hood trigger via data.

How are these connected? Are they connected from the Viper to the car or to the module? or both? If you connected the trigger wires to the module, it's possible something could be falsing causing the alarm to trigger?

Is this wire connected to anything? -
H1/10 WHITE/ BLUE (-) REMOTE START/ TURBO TIMER ACTIVATION INPUT

I would definitely run a shutdown diagnostic and see what it's showing is getting triggered.

Turbo timer not connected.

Everything was wired directly to the viper module. I was told by viper that I could use the DLPK just for the transponder and that was the plan but didn't work.

Once I hooked up the two wires to the vehicles computer for hi low data I started to get double locking, so I disconnected the door locking wire from the viper module.

The door 'trigger' wire is still connected to viper module and not DLPK

Maybe there is some stray current interfering with the DLPK lock - and Viper trigger -

There is not a trunk or hood trigger connected to any module other than the hood safety switch to prevent starting with open hood and that is wired directly to viper module.

I am checking right now to see what zone is triggering the alarm. it happens about 5 mins into the remote start cycle

howie ll wrote:

On R/S you have 2 relay isolate them because they are both normally live whilst cranking and if you have the alarm on during remote start it will immediately trigger the alarm..

I used diodes to keep the signals separated.

Is the Viper connected D2D or W2W to the DLPK?

If D2D, try W2W and see if that helps.

The more I think about it, sounds like the hood trigger is being tripped somehow. It's the only input that the alarm and remote starter share in common.

Try disarming/unlocking the Viper system and try remote starting it. Does it still shut off after about 5 minutes? Does the alarm sound that time? If the hood input gets triggered, it would sound the alarm since it thinks the hood is being tampered with. At the same time, the hood switch is a shutdown input for the remote starter. If you are by chance running the DLPK via D2D to the Viper, it could be falsing a hood pin trigger. Make sense?

Try going W2W from the DLPK to the Viper and temporary disable the hood pin switch. Arm the system and try it again.

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Have you joined the pink to ignition yet?

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Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

Or simply disconnect the hood pin then try and see if the alarm triggers. If not make hood pin longer.

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Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

howie ll wrote:

Or simply disconnect the hood pin then try and see if the alarm triggers. If not make hood pin longer.

Hood pin checks out and no issues.

Diagnostic said code 10 which is a generic "alarm triggered"

New symptom

Remote start works without any triggering of alarm BUT I get an extra chirp when arming the system plus the 2 way remote give a one beep error tone.

Also the dome light is staying on for 20 seconds after arming. ( It would normally go off instantly before DLPK was hooked into system).

I am thinking I have a door that is grounding. ? ?

I checked all doors and they are not grounding out.

Car was remote stated again this morning and the alarm sounded after running for 5 minutes.

Ran the shut down diagnostic and it showed code 4, 5, and 10

I am assuming that the code 10 is from the remote starting this morning "alarm triggered"

While the code 4 remote shut down and code 5 brake shut down are from when the vehicle was driven yesterday, with no problems.

So it seems that the alarm will trigger 5-6 mins into start routine when the engine is ice cold, but the alarm will not trigger on a warm engine remote start.

Starting to think something is defective.

Is the Viper connected D2D or W2W to the DLPK?

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And I'm still waiting for the OP to tell us whether or not ignition is connected.

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Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

shortcircuit161 wrote:

Is the Viper connected D2D or W2W to the DLPK?

DLPK is d2d wired.

howie ll wrote:

And I'm still waiting for the OP to tell us whether or not ignition is connected.

Both

DLPK module pink ignition wire is connect to vehicles yellow (+) ignition wire

Viper module heavy gauge pink ignition wire is connect to vehicles yellow (+) ignition wire

Something the OP said about not happening when warm. Dry joint or bad connection?

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Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

That could be Howie. That would be my first thought too. The triggering alarm part is what gets me. Can't confirm though without trying W2W from the DLPK as I suggested a few replys ago. There are issues with some cars sending hood pin updates via D2D on some modules and the R/S thinks the hood is being opened and therefore triggers the alarm and shuts down the R/S.

I'm not 100% sure that's the answer, but I have seen this in the past on some D2D installs. Remedy (if that's the problem) is to connect W2W from bypass to Viper or reprogram the bypass to ignore hood pin signals via the CANbus.

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My whole point through this thread is either a faulty sensor door trigger, hood etc. Or something such as the aforementioned possible bad joint is telling the unit there's no ignition feed.
Soldering onto those by-pass wires can also be a PITA, they are extremely thin with a minimal number of strands. One tug and they come apart.

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Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

howie ll wrote:

My whole point through this thread is either a faulty sensor door trigger, hood etc. Or something such as the aforementioned possible bad joint is telling the unit there's no ignition feed.
Soldering onto those by-pass wires can also be a PITA, they are extremely thin with a minimal number of strands. One tug and they come apart.

-I checked all of the joints and they are soldered, tight and have no resistance measured in the connection.

-The hood pin, all four door triggers, and trunk trigger were all tested and show no grounding issues.

Everything worked correctly before the DLPK sans R\S

After installation of the DLPK, the dome light stays on for 20 seconds after arming (would goof before as soon as you arm the system), I get a second chirp when arming indicating it is bypassing a sensor. Also the 2 way remote has to be unlocked before arming. The 2 way remote would auto unlock once you shut the car off, prior to DLPK.

I am ready to just pull the DLPK and try a different module. I wonder if maybe there is a bad connector on the module itself? Frustrating.

A second chirp when arming means an entry point (door, hood, trunk) is open when arming.

A second chirp after hitting lock twice means zone 2 was bypassed and every press of the remote thereafter bypasses another zone with the siren chirping that many times.

Have you tried (or can you try) W2W with bypass to Viper instead of D2D? The DEI bypasses can work ok when they feel like it but too many issues with them is one reason I use strictly iDatalink or Fortin bypasses.

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shortcircuit161 wrote:

A second chirp when arming means an entry point (door, hood, trunk) is open when arming.

A second chirp after hitting lock twice means zone 2 was bypassed and every press of the remote thereafter bypasses another zone with the siren chirping that many times.

Have you tried (or can you try) W2W with bypass to Viper instead of D2D? The DEI bypasses can work ok when they feel like it but too many issues with them is one reason I use strictly iDatalink or Fortin bypasses.

I'll try w2w. it's just connecting the d2d cable directly to power and no other changes? the manual isn't clear.

That's correct. You can also just cut the blue and green wires from the D2D harness since the red and black already get power and ground from the Viper unit thru the D2D plug. Make sure you unplug the D2D cable from the viper unit to remove power from the bypass before cutting the wires.

You then need to reprogram the unit so it knows that it's no longer connected in D2D.

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shortcircuit161 wrote:

That's correct. You can also just cut the blue and green wires from the D2D harness since the red and black already get power and ground from the Viper unit thru the D2D plug. Make sure you unplug the D2D cable from the viper unit to remove power from the bypass before cutting the wires.

You then need to reprogram the unit so it knows that it's no longer connected in D2D.

Did w2w, reprogrammed and the alarm hasn't triggered during R/S in 6 tries.. I think the problem has been solved!

A BIG thanks to you guys for all the help!!

Very cool! Glad to hear it's working. Ironically, I had an issue with D2D last night that made me think of this post.

I installed a Crimestopper RS4-G3 on a 2004 Jeep Grand Cherokee (super easy vehicle) and used an INT-SL+ from Fortin which is similar to the DLPK. The Crimestopper can go D2D with Fortin or iDatalink modules. Install went flawless until about 5-8 minutes of it running. It would keep shutting down!! posted_image

I thought maybe it was a tach issue since I took it from the module. I went direct to an injector, relearned tach and it still would shut off after a few minutes (not the full 20 minutes).

I rewired everything W2W and reprogrammed, worked great after that. posted_image

I love the idea of D2D but as many here can tell you, it's not very reliable to the point that we can bet our life on it. W2W all the way for me now!

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