remote start troubleshooting

I've searched the forum but haven't found the answers. I'm having 2 problems I suspect are related. Just want to confirm.

I'm using the DBALL with an Avital 4103. Trying D2D connection. I'm also using the chthd2 harness all in a 2012 Jeep Wrangler (no power doors/windows).

1st problem: remote start works with fob. It starts and runs. I can also stop it with the fob. I've been able to to the valet takeover and remove my key. The problem is that it won't start with the fob again if it sits for 10-15 mins. I had the same problem when I let it auto shutdown after the 12 min remote start runtime. It seems that if I disconnect power from the DBALL harness and reconnect then I can get the remote start working again after cycle a keyed start.

I'm thinking that the Avital isn't staying energized or it's not getting power from the D2D connection after sitting a while.

2nd problem: I'd like to use the rear defroster output on the Avital but I don't get any LED response from the unit when trying to program it. Nor do I get any light flashes when trying to turn the rear defrost function on/off with the fob. I try while it was running via remote start and without engine running.

Where do I go from here?

You either go W2W or scrap that POS and use the idatalink or Fortin equivalent.

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Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

howie ll wrote:

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You either go W2W or scrap that POS and use the idatalink or Fortin equivalent.

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Thanks. I figured I'd have to go W2W.

So I disconnect the D2D, leave the DBALL connected as is with the CHTHD2 harness, connect both 12v+, ground, and ignition wire from the Avital directly to the vehicle? On which side do I connect the ignition wire, before or after the DBALL? Anything else I need to do for a W2W connection?

Look like the ignition from the Avital goes to the 10 pin connecotr and to a connector on the car.  All of the wires listed that are dashes need to be W2W. The dashed lines are not connected if going D2D.  Seeing as you have no power locks, those wires can be skipped.   Tach may not be supported in W2W.

I have used two DB-ALL recently and did both of them W2W and had no problems. I went W2W because of all of the negative issues I have read about D2D.

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I think I'm getting closer. It took be forever to find the W2W wiring diagram. All I had was the D2D version. Makes a big difference!

I ditched the D2D connection and went W2W for all the green on my image. I didn't connect the red. What am I missing? The lock/unlock generates a response but the remote start won't engage at all (no sounds/no lights).

I'm thinking I may need to get the DBALL flashed but would like your help before spending any more money. Thanks in advance!

How about the GWR Status to pin 10?

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if you didnt flash the DBALL then it most likely needs to be flashed. the bypass only works when it is flashed for your exact vehicle, where did you buy the bypass from?

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The GWR wire is connected too (mistake on my image).

The DBALL was flashed prior to purchase and worked sporadically on D2D. May need to be reflashed after switching to W2W.

One odd thing is that the ground from DBALL 10 pin is not connected for W2W but is for D2D?

As it is right now, Is there any flashing light on the DB-ALL?  Anything to indicate it is getting voltage?

Are you still using the CHTDH2 Harness?

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Still using the CHTHD2. When I press lock on the fob the DBALL flashes green and Avital flashes red.

You could have left it d2d . And cut the red wire on the data cable and ran it 12v constant. Would have fixed your problem

The Express kit diagram you posted is different from the one using the CHTHD2 cable, so wireing connections will be different, I am confused.

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