2009 lexus is 250awd remote start

I'm currently installing a viper 4704v + idatalink bypass into my car and I had a few questions:

1) The parking light is supposed to be a RD connector, even though I can't find any type of connector in any of the specs/manuals/etc. I found something that looks similar where it is supposed to be but the diagram an additional row of wires. I guess I could use a light meter to test..

2) Has anyone tapped the door lock/unlock anyone else besides the door? It's a pain to route the wires so I may just have a pro do it for me. I spent an hour and gave up. For the sake of testing ill just run the wire out of the door into the cabin and have it be ugly.

1) "Light meter"? I hope you mean a digital multi meter, as if you start probing around with a standard test light you run the risk of causing serious damage to the vehicle. RD connector? Not sure what that means. You can get negative parking lights at the switch harness, blue wire, steering column.

2) Out of the door? Not advisable at all. What happens if the wire gets cut/shorted/etc? Take your time, run it correctly the first time.

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Installer, IT support, and FFL. I need less hobbies.

Why did you chose to use the idata link?

Twelvoltz wrote:

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1) "Light meter"? I hope you mean a digital multi meter, as if you start probing around with a standard test light you run the risk of causing serious damage to the vehicle. RD connector? Not sure what that means. You can get negative parking lights at the switch harness, blue wire, steering column.

2) Out of the door? Not advisable at all. What happens if the wire gets cut/shorted/etc? Take your time, run it correctly the first time.

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Yeah you're right about the multimeter. I'm only running the wires out of the door into the cabin for testing. Apparently there are connections for lock/unlock in the passenger junction box, going to bust out the multimeter until I find the connections.

I choose the iDatalink because a pro installer that wired up his 08 IS used it and recommended highly.

Overall this has been an interesting experience. Soldering is easy, finding the right wires and wire routing is the hard part lol. I started out with posi taps but then ran out..not sure how I feel about them at this point.

So I finally got this all wired up and working like a champ. The only issue I'm having is tracking down the unlock/lock wires. I found some wires BLACK/ brown in the drivers side fuse box, they are .4V, but when lock/unlock are hit they jump to .5-6V.. they seems to hit 0 when not used for 20 seconds.. Does this constitute the right wires? Also how do you tell which one is lock and which one is unlock? The wires at the door switch are .6V and jump to .7-.8V so wondering about that voltage difference too. I feel like there is some logic here that i'm missing

Lock / unlock wires will go to ground when activating (by turning the key in the passenger door lock). Put the red lead of the DMM to a known 12v constant source and use the black lead to test the wires. You should see 12v only during lock / unlock activation. One wire will be for lock, a different wire for unlock.

Here is the readyremote wiring info for the locks:
Power Lock      brown (passenger door lock switch)      -      passenger dash fuse box, gray 30 pin plug (RJ), pin 7     
Power Unlock      black (passenger door lock switch)      -      passenger dash fuse box, gray 30 pin plug (RJ), pin 10     

However, if the vehicle has a factory alarm, you will have to run into the driver door.

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Kenny
Owner / Technician
KKD Garage LLC
Albany, NY 12205

offroadzj wrote:

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Lock / unlock wires will go to ground when activating (by turning the key in the passenger door lock). Put the red lead of the DMM to a known 12v constant source and use the black lead to test the wires. You should see 12v only during lock / unlock activation. One wire will be for lock, a different wire for unlock.

Here is the readyremote wiring info for the locks:
Power Lock      brown (passenger door lock switch)      -      passenger dash fuse box, gray 30 pin plug (RJ), pin 7      
Power Unlock      black (passenger door lock switch)      -      passenger dash fuse box, gray 30 pin plug (RJ), pin 10      

However, if the vehicle has a factory alarm, you will have to run into the driver door.

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Thanks for the reply! I actually tracked down these wires but was having a hard time figuring out the wiring diagram symbols (first time). Why would I need to run into the driver door? :/

If the vehicle has a factory alarm system that you wish to keep. If it does not have an alarm, or if you don't mind losing the alarm system, you can just use the lock / unlock wires. But if it does have an alarm and you choose to not use it, make sure to put away the factory remotes and do not use them. If it has an alarm and you lock it with the factory remote, it WILL set off the alarm when you try to unlock it with the aftermarket remote. I would personally connect the factory alarm (if present) but I've also gone into many doors so its only a matter of minutes for me to run the wires.

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Kenny
Owner / Technician
KKD Garage LLC
Albany, NY 12205

offroadzj wrote:

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If the vehicle has a factory alarm system that you wish to keep. If it does not have an alarm, or if you don't mind losing the alarm system, you can just use the lock / unlock wires. But if it does have an alarm and you choose to not use it, make sure to put away the factory remotes and do not use them. If it has an alarm and you lock it with the factory remote, it WILL set off the alarm when you try to unlock it with the aftermarket remote. I would personally connect the factory alarm (if present) but I've also gone into many doors so its only a matter of minutes for me to run the wires.

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I see, does this still hold true with a bypass? I installed a idatalink and it disables the factory remote on remote start (couldn't unlock my doors).

Yes. Unfortunately on those, the bypass will only bypass the immobilizer, not the security features (locks, factory alarm, etc). The bypass itself isn't what disables the factory remote, its the vehicle itself. Most factory keyless entry systems are disabled whenever the vehicle is running.

If you want to keep the factory alarm functional, you will have to run wires into the door. You may be able to find a good how-to on removing the door panel online, and I know there is a great how-to on here for running wires through a Molex plug. If you take your time and are careful, it really isn't too difficult to run wires into the door.

If you don't care about losing the factory alarm, then just connect the lock / unlock wires and make sure not to use the factory remote. I'm assuming that car has the smart key... does it automatically lock the doors when you walk away from the car?

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Kenny
Owner / Technician
KKD Garage LLC
Albany, NY 12205

offroadzj wrote:

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Yes. Unfortunately on those, the bypass will only bypass the immobilizer, not the security features (locks, factory alarm, etc). The bypass itself isn't what disables the factory remote, its the vehicle itself. Most factory keyless entry systems are disabled whenever the vehicle is running.

If you want to keep the factory alarm functional, you will have to run wires into the door. You may be able to find a good how-to on removing the door panel online, and I know there is a great how-to on here for running wires through a Molex plug. If you take your time and are careful, it really isn't too difficult to run wires into the door.

If you don't care about losing the factory alarm, then just connect the lock / unlock wires and make sure not to use the factory remote. I'm assuming that car has the smart key... does it automatically lock the doors when you walk away from the car?

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It doesn't, but I don't like the idea of not using the factory alarm lol. I can get the door off easy, its just getting the wires through the rubber grommet which is really tight. I'll look up the guide here, thanks for the help!

Don't use a coat hanger to go through the boot... there are usually quite a few wires in the boot and the coat hanger can easily damage those wires. Go to the hardware store and buy the biggest and stiffest zip tie you can find. Then cut the end off of it and use that to fish the wires through the boot.

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Kenny
Owner / Technician
KKD Garage LLC
Albany, NY 12205

offroadzj wrote:

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Don't use a coat hanger to go through the boot... there are usually quite a few wires in the boot and the coat hanger can easily damage those wires. Go to the hardware store and buy the biggest and stiffest zip tie you can find. Then cut the end off of it and use that to fish the wires through the boot.

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Thanks for the advice, I was able to wire it through in 20 mins! The trick was to remove the boot from the door and then snake it through with the zip tie that i bent a little to help with the curve into the body :)

I pretty much wrapped up my install but my location for the brain won't work at this point. I'm actually thinking about redoing the entire installation in the spring. The wires that viper provides for ignition/power/etc are excessively big and are a little short. I'll rip everything out and redo it with smaller wire which will make the install a little neater. Would 14 gauge be a good choice?

So I 2 issues right now, and once I solve them I'll be done! Can anyone help? :

1) When I remote start the car the drivers door stays unlocked? When I was using the idatalink i got the same behavior when I did a hardwire install, but it went away when I was using D2D. Now that I'm using a evo-all I'm doing hard wired again and the issue is back.

2) When I lock the car from the viper remote it unlocks the door right after. I can hear the factory chirp and the lights blink twice as if I hit the unlock button from the factory remote. This behavior is EXACTLY how the car acts when I hit the unlock on the factory remote. Once I hit the lock on the viper fob again it will lock depending on how long I wait.

Any suggestions? I scoured online but haven't found any help :/

op7ik] wrote:

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So I 2 issues right now, and once I solve them I'll be done! Can anyone help? :

1) When I remote start the car the drivers door stays unlocked? When I was using the idatalink i got the same behavior when I did a hardwire install, but it went away when I was using D2D. Now that I'm using a evo-all I'm doing hard wired again and the issue is back.

2) When I lock the car from the viper remote it unlocks the door right after. I can hear the factory chirp and the lights blink twice as if I hit the unlock button from the factory remote. This behavior is EXACTLY how the car acts when I hit the unlock on the factory remote. Once I hit the lock on the viper fob again it will lock depending on how long I wait.

Any suggestions? I scoured online but haven't found any help :/

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Update: I solved issue number 1, its the remote start safelock option in menu 3. Just have to set it to on and the door locks right back up. Still trying to figure out the second issue though..

op7ik] wrote:

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op7ik] wrote:

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So I 2 issues right now, and once I solve them I'll be done! Can anyone help? :

1) When I remote start the car the drivers door stays unlocked? When I was using the idatalink i got the same behavior when I did a hardwire install, but it went away when I was using D2D. Now that I'm using a evo-all I'm doing hard wired again and the issue is back.

2) When I lock the car from the viper remote it unlocks the door right after. I can hear the factory chirp and the lights blink twice as if I hit the unlock button from the factory remote. This behavior is EXACTLY how the car acts when I hit the unlock on the factory remote. Once I hit the lock on the viper fob again it will lock depending on how long I wait.

Any suggestions? I scoured online but haven't found any help :/

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Update: I solved issue number 1, its the remote start safelock option in menu 3. Just have to set it to on and the door locks right back up. Still trying to figure out the second issue though..

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Update 2: Seems the behavior of the unlock after lock is normal after talking to an installer. It seems to have gone away now that I am using a smartstart module there must of a been an update of some sort. I do have a weird issue where I can remote start my car perfectly on my phone, but when I hit the button again it turns my car off, then turns it back on. Rather odd since I can turn it off fine with my fob. I have a email sent to tech support, wondering if anyone else has seen this.