04 silverado remote start

I have searched everything I can to the best of my ability and have been unable to come up with an answer to my problem.

This is a Viper 5104 alarm w/ remote start.

2004 Chevrolet 2500 Duramax Diesel


Initially when I tried to use the remote start it would flash at me 7 times, which meant "After performing Remote Start
command - MTS not enabled" So I then when through the programing process to set it in Automatic Transmission Mode.

Then it flashed at me 8 times instead of starting, that meant that the toggle switch was off, but it was on like its supposed to be. So I grounded the "Nuetral Saftey Input" wire.

Then it would act appropriately and give a confirmation chirp, then the dash would only partially light up and the glow plug light would flicker. I didn't like that so I disconnected the wait to start wire and changed the programming to a 15second delay.

Still no start and the instrument cluster does not fully light up like the truck has full/complete power.






Here is how I have the remote start harness wired in:

H3/1 PINK (+) IGNITION 1 INPUT/OUTPUT Pink Wire @ Ignition Harness
H3/2 RED / WHITE (87) FLEX RELAY +12V INPUT (30A FUSED)Did not hook this up
H3/3 ORANGE (+) ACCESSORY OUTPUTOrange Wire @ Ignition Harness
H3/4 VIOLET (+) STARTER OUTPUT (CAR SIDE OF THE STARTER KILL)Yellow Wire (cut in half) to starter
H3/5 GREEN (+) STARTER INPUT (KEY SIDE OF THE STARTER KILL)Yellow Wire (cut in half) to key
H3/6 RED IGNITION 1 +12V INPUT (30A FUSED) There are 2 red 12v constants in the ignition, I hooked this to the one of them
H3/7 PINK/WHITE (30) FLEX RELAY OUTPUT (car side of ign, acc or starter wire)Did not hook this up
H3/8 PINK/BLACK (87a) FLEX RELAY INPUT (key side of ign, acc or starter wire if needed)Did not hook this up
H3/9 RED / BLACK ACCESSORY/STARTER RELAY +12V INPUT (30A FUSED)Did not hook this up


Then in order to power the second ignition wire I added a relay that is wired like this:

85- Pink Ignition Wire
86- Ground
30- Red Constant 12v from Ignition Harness (not the same as the one used for H3/6 above
87- White Ignition Wire


Any Ideas???

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-Chris

Where is it grounded at. Why did you hook up second ign that way. What bypass are you using. How is that wired up.

I just found the brown wire that is a secondary accessory power.

I manually gave this 12 volts after activating the remote start function and the cluster fully lights up like it supposed to. So I know that I need to add another relay to give this wire power as well (would it be a bad idea to just add it to the relay i already added for the secondary ignition wire???)

After a few momments it never tries to start then eventually the locks will cycle, the alarm chirps, and the radio will come on (not all at once)


What am I doing wrong here?

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-Chris

The unit is grounded to the cross beam that is mounted underneath the dash. Its raw steal and bolts to the chassis in several locations. Should be a good ground.

How else are you supposed to hook up the second ignition? Thats the why I understood it to be needed to be done.

I didn't get any kind of bypass. The truck doesn't have a transponder style key so I was under the impression all I needed was an interface for the door locks. So I bought a DLI-GMJ witch is a Databus Doorlock Interface made by PAC.




I am by no means an alarm installer, but I am a very well to do technician and race team crew. I didn't think that this alarm stuff could be this complicated.



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-Chris

H3/2, 6, and 9 to Red 12 volt on vehicle.

H3/4 and 5 look ok

H3/1 to Pink Ignition 1

H3/7 to White Ignition 2

H3/3 to orange Accessory 1

Accessory 2 needs a relay from???

Does this 5104 have a 18 or 24 pin harness?  One of those wires should be a 200ma accessory to drive the relay for your accessory 2.

Link to Bulldog: https://www.bulldogsecurity.com/bdnew/vehiclewiringdiagrams.asp

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Has a 24pin harness.



Hmmm, so you are saying i need to:

hook 2, 6, & 9 all to constant 12 volt?

I need to remove the relay i installed for the white second ignition and hook it to pin 7?


Hook up a relay to the brown second acc. wire that is energized from the wire for acc. turn on that comes out of the 24 pin connector?

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-Chris

Am I going to need to get a bypass as well as the door lock module I bought?

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-Chris

You should have a Passkey II or III system on your truck which is part of the key cylinder not a transponder. So you will need a DEI Xpresskit XK01 (which provides data override on all GM Passlock II and Passkey3 type (J1850) immobilizer systems), or compatible bypass from Fortin or the like.

H3/7 is defaulted as Ignition 2.... H3/8 on the Heavy gauge Harness is the only wire you not use.

Out of the 24 pin harness is H2/22 Orange, this iis the wire you want to trigger a relay for your Accessory 2..It is a 200mA (-) trigger and not to be connected directly to the vehicles accessory. 

Look in the Relay Section of this site for converting a negitive to positive.    https://www.the12volt.com/relays/relaydiagram8.html

As Lurch228 stated, you will need a bypass. H2/9 (-) status output will be one of the wires needed for that to work. Don't forget to do Tach Learning.

Fortain Site: https://ifar.ca/en/vehicles/chevrolet/silverado/2004/

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ok, the RED / black wire needs to be hooked to the other red 12v constant at the ignition harness. this is the input for the accessory and starter circuit, without this you are only powering the ignition wire, this is why your dash doesnt completely light up.

you can keep your 2nd ignition relay wired the same way except you should change your 86 ground to the "status/ground when running" wire from the alarm so that the relay can only activate during remote start. you could also have used the flex relay to power the 2nd ignition, the RED / white determines the polarity of the pink/white and you can program this wire to operate as the ignition or accessory or starter. the pink/black wire wont be used but it is part of the flex relay circuit but it is only used when the wire being powered needs to be isolated from the vehicle during remote start.

for diesels i always use a timer rather than the wait to start input, its just so much easier. the only way i would hook up the wait to start is on an old pre-95 deisel because once hey get so old the glow plug heater time can have wild differences depending on the temp and how long it has been sitting. the tach wire on the other hand is a must on most diesels because the cranking time will also vary greatly from season to season.

it is also pretty important to not use just one of the red 12v constant wire to power the remote starter, you need to use both to distribute the current evenly just like it is meant to be used when you start normally with the key. if you only use one 12v feed then you risk throwing codes and having weak starts because all of the current is being pulled through a single wire.



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Oh yet again, always connect the thick red, RED / white and RED / black.
Incidentally for soundnsecurity I did a 2012 Mits diesel truck this week and I left it as gasoline, 3 seconds wait. In the UK climate no problems. I pulled tach off an injector but without testing or looking too closely I'm pretty sure there was a wire on pin 9 of the data socket, just like Toyota and BMW.

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Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

What ever bypass you get try to get one that does override and door locks so you only have to wire 1 module not 2. It's easier to track any problems if only 1 module is installed. I know you already got the PAC but I would suggest that you take it back or sell it online, and stick to one.

X 2 with Lurch.

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Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

howie ll wrote:

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Oh yet again, always connect the thick red, RED / white and RED / black.
Incidentally for soundnsecurity I did a 2012 Mits diesel truck this week and I left it as gasoline, 3 seconds wait. In the UK climate no problems. I pulled tach off an injector but without testing or looking too closely I'm pretty sure there was a wire on pin 9 of the data socket, just like Toyota and BMW.

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yea all newer diesels can usually be left alone without using a delay timer but i still use maybe a 10 second delay just because i dont want to have it come back as soon as the weather changes.

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I discussed this with the customer. He is aware of what I've done for convenience and knows how to program the change from gasoline to diesel.
Don't forget with our climate we don't normally get more than 5 days a year in London and the South East when you might have extreme cold, i.e. below 0f.

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Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

Louisiana weather changes daily, we will have 90 degree temperatures and then have a cold front come through that drops the temp down in the 40's and then a week later it will be back in the 80's, i hate our weather...

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Try michigan weather we have on occasion 60 degree swings in 24 hours.

Ouch and I moan about the drizzle.

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Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

Ok, so I just ordered the Fortin INT-SL+

When it comes in I'll completely rewire the system to how Smokeman1 reccommended.

Thanks for the help guys.




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-Chris

Today
70°F/49°F

Monday
47°F/29°F

Tuesday
38°F/27°F

Howie how's this for an average change?

Mon 53/47
Tue 56/40
Wed 52/36
Thu 52/44
Very gradual, thus a temperate climate even though we are as far north as Calgary 51N. we have the Gulf Stream to thank for our mild winters (except when we get a Northerly "gift" package from Siberia).

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Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

Quick easy question for you guys.

I am installing a Viper 5104 alarm w/ remote start in my 04 Silverado 2500 Diesel.

I bought a door lock interface and then found out I actually needed a bypass as well for the remote start to work.

So I am scraping the door lock interface and bought a Fortin INT-SL+

There are 2 ways to install it, with and without a datalink.

Whats the datalink? which way do I need to install it?

I don't want any fancy doodie, I just want the keyless and remote start to work, nothing else.

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-Chris

I am dumb, figured out what it was.

I don't know if the viper has a data link connector on it.. I'll take a quick look but I'm going to assume it does not and hook it up the standard way...

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-Chris

Hi Chris,

The Viper does indeed have a D2D connector on it.  However, while you could find a D2D harness to make the connection, there is a language difference between the standard Factory programmed Fortin bypass module ( DataLink ) and the Viper ( DBI ).

W2W mode is the best way to make the connections between the two units.  Do it on the bench, prior to install and everything will work and the install will be neat.

Kreg

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Soldering is fun!

I just went ahead and did it the hard way... haha, thanks.

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-Chris

I thought I had everything figured out but now have one last issue.

I am installing a Viper 5104 alarm w/ remote start in my 04 Silverado 2500 Diesel.

Truck starts then immediately shuts off. Now I know this is because of the passlock system and the bypass isn't doing its job.

I programmed it exactly the way it tells you to and it seems to work fine. Light comes on, then blinks and then shuts off (with proper inputs in between)

I hooked it up according to the directions from their website.. but nothing in their diagram mentions hooking any wires to the 2 wires in the steering column for the passlock. Does it get all this information from the obd2 connector?

Also, in the wiring it shows to hook the door trigger wire from the alarm to the bypass, but the alarm is only triggered by the drivers door and then the drivers door will no longer trigger it until you start it and shut it off.

According to the INT-SL+ directions I can also get my tach signal from this unit. Thats the way I have it hooked up, and it seemed to program fine.

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-Chris

The Fortin INT-SL+ handles the Passlock2 thru OBD2 Data.  No Passlock2 wire connections necessary.

Two thoughts on this issue.

1.  Does your "Tach programmed fine" statement mean that the Viper Tach learn process gave a successful completion signal?   While the install guide indicates that the properly programmed module will provide a Tach signal, other manufacturers bypass modules ( iDatalink ) state that the Tach signal is only generated on non-DuraMax engines.  Might want to check with Fortin to see if the INT-SL+ will provide a Tach signal with your diesel engine.

2. If you went W2W ( hardwired all wires ), verify that the Vipers Blue (-) 200mA Status Output wire is connected to the INT-SL+ Blue (-) While Running wire.

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Soldering is fun!

When I say it programmed fine, I mean it gave a single confirmation flash which is supposed to mean "an analog signal has been programmed" as opposed to 2 flashes which mean "a d2d signal has been programmed"

Yes the blue status wire is hooked to the blue (-) when running wire from the int sl+

Also forgot to mention that with it running I can activate the remote start and remove the keys, I don't know if that is relevant or not.

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-Chris

Should I try pulling the tach signal from the back of the cluster instead?

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-Chris

Being able to do "Pit Stop" mode is a good sign. 

Yes, I think trying another tach source and re-learning the Viper Tach is a good idea. 

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Soldering is fun!

BINGO!

Swapping the tach signal to the cluster and relearning it fixed it.

I guess I'll just add all the door triggers w2w and diode insulate since the module isn't handling all 4 doors... You know if this is a common thing?


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-Chris

I primarily use iDatalink bypass modules.  The few INT-SL and INT-SL+ modules I have used were in R/S w/Keyless entry installs ( no alarm ) so I wasn't even using the Door Status signal.  I do know on some other GM vehicles, the bypass modules can only monitor the front doors and the rear doors must be hardwired.  You situation with only the drivers front door being monitored and then for only one cycle is strange.  Maybe it has to do with the version of firmware loaded on the INT-SL+ ( I usually use the FlashLink cable to re-flash the latest version just prior to install ).   Perhaps a call to Fortin Tech Support is in order.  They are very good and might have info on or a solution for your problems.

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Soldering is fun!