acura mdx factory fob with compustar

I friend of mine had a Compustar CM6200 installed in a TL that he removed because the dealer didnt warranty the car with in on. So, basically he gave it to me and I'd like to install it.

I have a 2004 Acura MDX and I would like to install this as only an add-on to the existing alarm. I was thinking of either the panic button or pressing the unlock button three times or hold it down.

From what I read I would need to connect the Aux output to the factory alarm. I'm just not sure which of the three scenarios are possible with the aux output and how do get it done. Also how many of the wires do I need to install?

https://www.compustar.com/dealersupport/manuals/CM6_manuals/CM6200_installV.6.07.pdf

2004 Acura MDX
Compustar CM6200
Compustar RF-1BAM

Might not be as easy as that. 

First you will need a bypass module.  Is there a Blade cartridge installed in the Compustar CM6200?  Is it a
Blade AL or Blade TB?  What year was the TL?  It might be possible to re-use the Blade on your MDX and save a
few bucks.

Second, the MDX probably shuts down the Factory FOB's while the engine is running.  Test it to see if this
happens.  If it does, the Factory FOB's won't be able to unlock the doors after the MDX is remote started.

While you could set it up to remote start from the Factory FOB's Lock command and use a key to open the doors,
if you got the RF-1BAM remote kit ( antenna, harness and FOB's ), might as well install the whole package.
This will give you better range and the ability to control the locks while the engine is running.

At the very minimum, you will need to connect :
CN1 Pins 1 - 5 ( Pin 5 = two wires )
CN2 Pins 2, 6, 11, 15, 16 & 18 ( and maybe Pin 9 to an external relay for ACC2 )
CN4 Pins 4 & 5

Plus 3 wires from the Blade harness for the transponder bypass, if it has the correct firmware loaded on it.

It can get complicated...

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Soldering is fun!

No, there is no Blade cartridge. The slot is empty.

To check the MDX do I turn the car on and try to unlock and lock the car with the FOB?

I was going to install the whole system but the fobs look really cheap.
https://www.firstechonline.com/images/1BAMR.jpg

I don't mind it being complicated as long as it comes out clean.

I'm also open to suggestions.

Trying to wrap my head around the purpose of the blade. Is it used to integrate the alarm to the factory features?

The blade modules are compact data bypass modules. Instead of having to wire and tuck another box, it allows you to keep everything nice and compact. The features on the blade modules are usually the same as the other data modules.

You are going to have to get a bypass module for the vehicle... the blade module is your best bet since you have the remote start module made for it. The blade TB is all you need since it will only do the immobilizer anyways.

As for checking the factory remote, start the vehicle with the key and try to unlock / lock the doors from the fob.

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Kenny
Owner / Technician
KKD Garage LLC
Albany, NY 12205

The system has this attached to the wire harness

https://www.idatalink.com/product/product/product_id/1


https://www.fileden.com/files/2006/6/26/90929/IMG_0975.JPG

https://www.fileden.com/files/2006/6/26/90929/IMG_0977.JPG

https://www.fileden.com/files/2006/6/26/90929/IMG_0976.JPG

With the Blade cover off
https://www.fileden.com/files/2006/6/26/90929/IMG_0978.JPG

The RF-1BAM remotes are light and small but fairly robust.  The nice thing about the Compustar systems
is how easy it is to upgrade / switch to new / different remotes.  Just buy the correct kit, swap the
antenna and program the remotes.

It looks like they used an ADS AL CA instead of the Blade cartridge.  That's fine, just less compact.
What year was the TL?  This is where it can get complicated.  You will have to look up the TL with ADS AL CA
module and check all the install diagrams against the actual current wiring presently on the bypass module
( wires used and going to vehicle connections ) to see what firmware is loaded on the bypass.  Sorry for the
run-on sentence.  The iDatalink bypass modules can be flashed with many different firmwares that can support
many different vehicle platforms.  Having the ADS USB cable and authorized dealer access to their WEB site
would simplify everything.

Additionally, it looks like they used T-Taps for the prior install.    Personally, I prefer to solder all my
connections.  You will have to cut off the connectors and possibly add the correct gauge wire to lengthen
any wires that are not long enough for your vehicles' needs.  They might have used wires you don't need
and/or cut short wires they didn't use ( but you might need ).  I can't tell from the photos, but is the
CN4 door lock harness present?

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Soldering is fun!

I have a lot of experience soldering and plan on cleaning this stuff up. Doing the research first.

I don't see the door harness but I see where it goes.

The TL was a 2007, I believe. This is being installed in my MDX. Do I not need the firmware for the MDX instead of the TL?

I'll probably end up changing out the remotes and using the Compustar ones.

OK.  2007 TL.  Going with that info and the fact that the door lock harness is missing,
we can make some conclusions.  The CM6200 and the ADS AL CA were connected via D2D and
the ADS AL CA was flashed with the ADS AL(DL) HA1 firmware ( or whatever "DL HA" firmware
was current at the time of install.  You can use this ADS install guide to see if the
necessary wires shown in the diagram are the ones that are included in the current runs
to the vehicle.  https://www.idatalink.com/support/get-install-guide/guide_id/8350  See
page 5 for the wiring.  The main difference in D2D R/S only would be the ADS Orange wire
from the 7 Pin connector.  Either way, while the 2004 MDX is not listed, I believe it will
work as a TB ( transponder bypass ) only module.  You would follow this ADS install guide
to make the transponder bypass connections for the MDX: 
https://www.idatalink.com/support/get-install-guide/guide_id/9228  Basically the same wires
currently and you could still use the D2D harness.  A Factory Reset, lock in Install Mode = Data
and then program to the MDX ( Page 9 ).

If you can't find the CM6200 CN4 door lock harness, I might be able to find one and send it
to you. 

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Soldering is fun!

Awesome. How much do you want for the cable?

It was a 2010 Acura TSX, not TL. My mistake.

Ahhh, 2010 TSX.  That puts a crimp in the works.  That car is a CAN vehicle and the ADS AL CA flashed with
the HA3 firmware won't work for your MDX.  If it has the TB HA it would.  Check out this install guide to see
if the wiring matches what you currently have ( mostly the 7 Pin connector ).
https://www.idatalink.com/support/get-install-guide/guide_id/10051

No charge for the Door Lock Harness, I have something that will work and it will only cost me a stamp to send.
PM me your address. 

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Soldering is fun!

Would I be able to use this remote instead of the one I currently have?

https://www./itm/Compustar-RF1WG5900SH-1-Way-4-Button-Car-Alarm-Remote-w-5000-ft-Range-/360512619118?pt=US_Replacement_Remotes&hash=item53f03a026e&vxp=mtr

Which part of the diagram am I comparing. This one?

https://www.fileden.com/files/2006/6/26/90929/ADS-AL%28TB%29%20HA-EN.PNG

Yes, the RF 1WG5900SH will work with the CM6200.  Just get the entire kit.  The kit contains the two remotes, the antenna and the antenna harness,

With the install diagrams, you are trying to determine the firmware that is currently loaded by the actual wiring that was used on the TSX install.  Kinda working backwards, looking for clues like a detective.  If the wires shown on the HA3 install diagram match the wires used, then you can make a good guess what firmware is loaded.

If you have a friendly local install shop that uses iDatalink products and stop by with a dozen doughnuts and the bypass module they might just flash the module with the correct firmware you need for your MDX. 

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Soldering is fun!

I found someone who will flash it for $20. Seems kind of high for a flash. Is this something I can do myself or do I need to buy equipment to do so.

Equipment = ADS USB cable ~$60 plus Dealer access to restricted iDatalink WEB site.

$20 sounds high.  Did you try BestBuy?

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Soldering is fun!

I'll check out Best Buy. The harness arrived today. Thanks for that.