code alarm ca6550 remote start 98 inte
Printed From: the12volt.com
Forum Name: Car Security and Convenience
Forum Discription: Car Alarms, Keyless Entries, Remote Starters, Immobilizer Bypasses, Sensors, Door Locks, Window Modules, Heated Mirrors, Heated Seats, etc.
URL: https://www.the12volt.com/installbay/forum_posts.asp?tid=132703
Printed Date: May 16, 2024 at 12:32 PM
Topic: code alarm ca6550 remote start 98 inte
Posted By: joelr7309
Subject: code alarm ca6550 remote start 98 inte
Date Posted: November 18, 2012 at 10:45 AM
I'm trying to install the remote start on a 1998 Integra Sedan.. Im done with everything and I connected everything. I'm not sure if I connected everything. can some help me what on the list is important to connect off the Code Alarm CA6550.. I'm not sure in I need a Mobilizer on this car.
Everytime I try to start the remote start but it flashes 3 time saying
Remote Start Shutdown Diagnostics
If the remote start shuts down or fails to start, the parking lights will flash one of
the patterns below indicating the shutdown input.
To manually enter diagnostics and view the last shutdown, turn the ignition ON
and press and release the button.
LED FLASHES SHUTDOWN ZONE
3 Flashes Hood Input
Brake Input
4 Flashes Remote Start Valet Mode
7 Flashes Tach not learned / Crank Average not learned
Replies:
Posted By: beegbie
Date Posted: November 18, 2012 at 4:37 PM
First step would be to disconnect your brake and hood wires. See if it helps. Did you ground the neutral safety wire?
Posted By: joelr7309
Date Posted: November 18, 2012 at 4:57 PM
neutral safety wire (-) should I connect this to the Emergency E-Brake?
Posted By: beegbie
Date Posted: November 18, 2012 at 6:20 PM
Nope. You could, but then you would need to set the e-brake whenever using the remote start. Just ground it.
Posted By: joelr7309
Date Posted: November 18, 2012 at 6:38 PM
Ok I tried disconnecting the hood and brake input...
The major problem was to program the TACH while running.. I got it to where I enable the remote start then the all the lights come up ready to firing but no cranking up like I hooked up the main wires wrong.. I connect both pink/white and Pink I'm so close
Weird is when I remote start is enable I put the key in and just start the car. I can remove the key and the cars still running
Posted By: smokeman1
Date Posted: November 18, 2012 at 7:00 PM
Could you list what wires from the remote starter are connected to what wires on the car? It would help us to understand what might be going on.
I don't think you need the pink/white wire for starters. ------------- When all else fails, Read the Instructions
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Posted By: joelr7309
Date Posted: November 18, 2012 at 8:11 PM
Constant 12V+ White Ignition Switch Harness
Starter BLACK/ White
Ignition BLACK / YELLOW
Ignition 2 WHITE/ Black
Accessory Yellow
Tach Blue Distributor
Neutral Safety Wire GREEN / WHITE
Brake Switch GREEN / WHITE
Trunk Pin Green (-)
Parking Lights RED / Green
Hood Pin n/a
Posted By: joelr7309
Date Posted: November 18, 2012 at 8:20 PM
Posted By: joelr7309
Date Posted: November 18, 2012 at 8:25 PM
joelr7309 wrote:
Constant 12V+ White Ignition Switch Harness
Starter BLACK/ WhitePurple with Relay
Ignition BLACK / YELLOW Pink
Ignition 2 WHITE/ Black Pink/White
Accessory Yellow ORANGE
Tach Blue Distributor BLUE from firewall
Neutral Safety Wire GREEN / WHITE E-brake
Brake Switch GREEN / WHITE Disconnected
Trunk Pin Green (-) Door Trigger
Parking Lights RED / Green White
Hood Pin n/a
Posted By: smokeman1
Date Posted: November 18, 2012 at 8:28 PM
Is the Neutral Safety Input connected to the same GREEN / WHITE as the Brake Input? Is this vehicle manual or automatic?
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Posted By: joelr7309
Date Posted: November 18, 2012 at 9:07 PM
smokeman1 wrote:
Is the Neutral Safety Input connected to the same GREEN / WHITE as the Brake Input? Is this vehicle manual or automatic?
AutoMatic and the neutral is connected to E-Brake... BROWN / Red connect peddal BRAKES
Posted By: smokeman1
Date Posted: November 19, 2012 at 7:06 AM
Try connecting the Neutral Safety to ground. What is happening when you try to remote start?
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Posted By: joelr7309
Date Posted: November 19, 2012 at 9:45 AM
when I try to start the RS its turns the lights on but no cranking up. then it trys to start again.. but when I use the key while its doing it..it cranks up and I can remove the key and its still running.. should I take off the
ignition2- pink/white
Posted By: smokeman1
Date Posted: November 19, 2012 at 11:38 AM
Did the wire the pink/white is connected to test out as an ignition?
Try putting a key in the ignition, do not turn it to on. Then try to remote start the car. Does it start? It is sounding like you might need a bypass for this car. Although I can not find any info saying this 1998 needs a bypass. Puzzeling
Did you test and verify all of the ignition wires on the car with a DMM? ------------- When all else fails, Read the Instructions
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Posted By: soundnsecurity
Date Posted: November 19, 2012 at 2:33 PM
if you put the key in the ignition but do not turn it on, then try to remote start the car, does it start? if it starts and runs then you need to install an immobilizer bypass. being an older acura, you will probably be limited to using a "key in the box" style bypass that takes one of your spare keys and hides it inside a box under the dash.
if you run the test with the key in the ignition and the car still wont remote start and run then you probably have a wiring issue. you might have the wires correct so far but you should make sure that there arent any wires in the car that are not listed in a wire diagram. sometimes there will be an extra ignition wire that needs to be powered.
i would also just ground the neutral safety wire instead of having it connected to the E-brake, its your call but its kind of pointless because the car wont start if it is not in park anyway. having it connected to the parking brake is just going to give you more failed starts everytime you dont set the e-brake
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Posted By: joelr7309
Date Posted: November 19, 2012 at 2:53 PM
YOUTUBE VIDEO TO SEE
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vgYuXc_2lcg&feature=youtu.be
I tried with the key just inside and it does the same thing. let me check the wires with my meter to double check.. with the kill which relay have to do with anything in this problem..
85 red - purple
87a- key side cut wire starter
30 - motor side cut wire starter
86- 12volts
85 red - purple
87a- key side cut wire starter
30 - motor side cut wire starter
86- 12volts
Posted By: beegbie
Date Posted: November 19, 2012 at 5:24 PM
Your relay is wired wrong. First just get rid of the relay and put the purple to the starter in the car. If your remote start works, then we will get the relay right using the orange ground while armed.
Posted By: soundnsecurity
Date Posted: November 19, 2012 at 5:49 PM
ok, so the car doesnt start with the key in the ignition. this means that you have something wired wrong or you are missing a wire completely. hondas and acuras are good for having a 3rd ignition wire. every wire at the main ignition harness should be hooked to something, so if you still have unused wires at the ignition harness then you need to use a meter to find out how those wires behave when you cycle the key and then hook those wires to the appropriate outputs from the remote starter.
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Posted By: joelr7309
Date Posted: November 19, 2012 at 6:16 PM
I hooked up everything on the main wire PURPLE-ORANGE everything is hooked. now I'll try to just remove the relay and see if it works. I have a video
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vgYuXc_2lcg&feature=youtu.be
thanks guys
Posted By: soundnsecurity
Date Posted: November 19, 2012 at 6:35 PM
joelr7309 wrote:
I hooked up everything on the main wire PURPLE-ORANGE everything is hooked. now I'll try to just remove the relay and see if it works. I have a video
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vgYuXc_2lcg&feature=youtu.be
thanks guys
i didnt mean that everything from the alarm main harness needs to be hooked up..., i meant that every wire in the cars ignition harness needs to be hooked up. if you have any unused wires on the cars ignition harness then you need to find out what those wires do and hook them to the alarm.
a remote starter works simply by copying what the ignition harness does when you cycle the key to start the car. if a wire has power during a normal start cycle but is not being powered by the remote starter then that is a problem that needs to be fixed. if you have unused wires at the ignition harness then that means they are not getting any power from the remote starter during remote start then that is your problem.
just because the alarm has a certain amount of wires coming from it doesnt mean that your car will have the same amount of wires needing to be powered in order to start and run. sometimes wires need to be added to the remote starter for it to be able to run your car.
also it might not be that you have missed a wire, it could just be that you have an ignition wire being powered as an accessory wire. the difference between an ignition and an accessory wire is that an ignition wire stays powered while you are cranking the starter and an accessory wire will lose power during crank. if you have a wire that tests as an ignition but you have it being powered as an accessory then could also be a reason why your car wont start unless you have the key in the on position.
you cant trust tech sheets and wiring diagrams to be right all the time, you need to test and verify that everything is accounted for and being used the right way. use a meter, test the wires at the ignition harness and verify that everything is getting the power it needs to act exactly like they do when you use the key to start the car.
also the purple starter wire does not hook directly to a relay, it needs to go to the cars starter wire. get the car running before you worry about the starter kill relay. -------------
Posted By: joelr7309
Date Posted: November 19, 2012 at 7:04 PM
okay tried without the relay.... no workie
tried the blue/black ignition 3 option
it say to in install book.. I can hear the relay click but still no crank from starter
relay
86 to jump to pink ign output
87- 12volts
85- blue/black module
30- to vehi 2nd or 3rd ign wire
Posted By: smokeman1
Date Posted: November 19, 2012 at 7:25 PM
This is too simple of a car for a install. No bypass, simple wire set at the ignition. You need to get a DMM and test and verify each wire at the ignition switch. In the down loads section of this site is the install manual for the Viper 5701. In it is a section on how to find and test for the wires you need, 12 volt constant, Ignition, Accessory, and starter. Also test other wires for possible Ignition 2, accesory 2, ect, ect.
Are you soldering the wires or using some kink of crimp device? Scothhlocks? T-Taps?
PURPLE_ORANGE? To What! Relay to 2nd 3rd Ignition? You need to know what you are connecting to. ------------- When all else fails, Read the Instructions
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Posted By: soundnsecurity
Date Posted: November 19, 2012 at 8:02 PM
this is how you should have this wired:
both red wires from alarm to white at ignition harness
pink wire to the BLACK / YELLOW 1st ignition
pink/white to the WHITE/ black 2nd ignition
orange wire to the yellow 1st accessory
purple wire to the BLACK/ white starter
i am not there to look or test so this is assuming that my wiring diagram is correct. IF there are any differences in color or any extra wires at your ignition harness that are not listed above then you need to test that wire to find out what it does and then hook that wire up to an appropriate source based on how that wire acts when you cycle the key.
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Posted By: joelr7309
Date Posted: November 19, 2012 at 9:01 PM
YEa its simple but last I remember the only wire to cut is the starter.. the rest is just T-tap the wire required to match.. weird I feel its a programming or miss match wire together.
Is there a difference. but I'm splicing on the key side not after the main plug connecter like behind the fuse box or plug connector..
Posted By: joelr7309
Date Posted: November 20, 2012 at 2:40 AM
THANKS soundnsecurity for your help let me stick this in my head and use the METER.. This is great information. I'll try tomorrow and hope I have more luck. thanks again
soundnsecurity wrote:
joelr7309 wrote:
I hooked up everything on the main wire PURPLE-ORANGE everything is hooked. now I'll try to just remove the relay and see if it works. I have a video
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vgYuXc_2lcg&feature=youtu.be
thanks guys
i didnt mean that everything from the alarm main harness needs to be hooked up..., i meant that every wire in the cars ignition harness needs to be hooked up. if you have any unused wires on the cars ignition harness then you need to find out what those wires do and hook them to the alarm.
a remote starter works simply by copying what the ignition harness does when you cycle the key to start the car. if a wire has power during a normal start cycle but is not being powered by the remote starter then that is a problem that needs to be fixed. if you have unused wires at the ignition harness then that means they are not getting any power from the remote starter during remote start then that is your problem.
just because the alarm has a certain amount of wires coming from it doesnt mean that your car will have the same amount of wires needing to be powered in order to start and run. sometimes wires need to be added to the remote starter for it to be able to run your car.
also it might not be that you have missed a wire, it could just be that you have an ignition wire being powered as an accessory wire. the difference between an ignition and an accessory wire is that an ignition wire stays powered while you are cranking the starter and an accessory wire will lose power during crank. if you have a wire that tests as an ignition but you have it being powered as an accessory then could also be a reason why your car wont start unless you have the key in the on position.
you cant trust tech sheets and wiring diagrams to be right all the time, you need to test and verify that everything is accounted for and being used the right way. use a meter, test the wires at the ignition harness and verify that everything is getting the power it needs to act exactly like they do when you use the key to start the car.
also the purple starter wire does not hook directly to a relay, it needs to go to the cars starter wire. get the car running before you worry about the starter kill relay.
Posted By: joelr7309
Date Posted: November 20, 2012 at 2:25 PM
OK I got the RS started.. One of my T-taps came loose and was not giving Starter signal..
I removed the Kill Start Relay. but I would really want it on .. does anyone know the diagram of the way the relay should be. I'm I suck with relays
And now since the Purple is T-Tap with the starter. What output wire should I use.. Thank SoundsNSecurity
Posted By: kreg357
Date Posted: November 20, 2012 at 3:03 PM
Starter Kill : Here is a link to a basic Starter Kill circuit : https://www.the12volt.com/relays/page2.asp Top diagram.
You will need a 30/40 Amp SPDT Relay and one 1N4007 diode. Follow the diagram and wire as below :
Relay Pin 85 to CA6550 Orange GWA output wire on the 6 Pin Output harness
Relay Pin 86 to CA6550 Pink IGN1 wire on the 6 Pin Start Harness ( this wire also goes to the vehicles BLACK / YELLOW IGN1 wire )
Relay Pin 30 to vehicle cut BLACK/ White Starter wire vehicle side - also connect CA6550 Violet Starter wire from 6 Pin Start harness
Relay Pin 87A to vehicle cut BLACK/ White Starter wire ignition switch side
Relay Pin 87 is not used - insulate
As you already found out T-Taps and wire crimps don't work well. For reliable operation, you should solder all these
connections. ------------- Soldering is fun!
Posted By: soundnsecurity
Date Posted: November 20, 2012 at 4:52 PM
yea T-taps are probably the worst thing you can use to connect wires. they fall off all the time and when you use them on big wires they tend to cut into the wire and over time can eventually cut the wire. i would definitely try to solder the wires together instead of using a connector .
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Posted By: joelr7309
Date Posted: November 21, 2012 at 6:26 PM
kreg357 wrote:
Starter Kill : Here is a link to a basic Starter Kill circuit : https://www.the12volt.com/relays/page2.asp Top diagram.
You will need a 30/40 Amp SPDT Relay and one 1N4007 diode. Follow the diagram and wire as below :
Relay Pin 85 to CA6550 Orange GWA output wire on the 6 Pin Output harness
Relay Pin 86 to CA6550 Pink IGN1 wire on the 6 Pin Start Harness ( this wire also goes to the vehicles BLACK / YELLOW IGN1 wire )
Relay Pin 30 to vehicle cut BLACK/ White Starter wire vehicle side - also connect CA6550 Violet Starter wire from 6 Pin Start harness
Relay Pin 87A to vehicle cut BLACK/ White Starter wire ignition switch side
Relay Pin 87 is not used - insulate
As you already found out T-Taps and wire crimps don't work well. For reliable operation, you should solder all these
connections.
Ok I tried this and for some reason it didnt work. but the remote start works.. I arm the car and then turn the key.. alarm goes off but you can still start the car while alarm ringing..
Posted By: kreg357
Date Posted: November 21, 2012 at 7:03 PM
Use a DMM to verify the CA6550 Orange GWA signal is present when the system is locked / armed. Also verify it continues its' output when in alarm state.
Use a DMM to verify that relay Pin 86 has +12V with the vehicles Ignition is ON.
------------- Soldering is fun!
Posted By: lucasoil4u
Date Posted: December 13, 2012 at 10:59 AM
I have had to replace igniton harness's because the TTaps started on fire! I would not recommend using them. Remove and Strip,Twist,Solder,Tape with good electrical tape.
Be safe
Posted By: smokeman1
Date Posted: December 13, 2012 at 5:09 PM
WOW... Can't believe it... With all the post on this site about NOT using those on installs.
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