Printer Friendly Forum Posts - 2005 malibu maxx 2way car alarm

hello, and thank you for letting me use your forum...

i'm hoping for a quick response as i need to get my wifes car put back together as she says it has been long enough.

To begin I have a spy 5000m 2 way car alarm I purchased online about 6 months ago. I am posting here as I can not figure out the engrish instructions. I contacted the seller he said sorry he don't offer tech support and good luck. Can not contact the manufacturer as it is in Singapore. And no alarm guys around or near where I live will touch it. They rather sell me something else that they know how to install and i cannot spend money on new system and i wouldn't feel comfortable pawning this system off on someone else lol.

ok theese are the wires for the alarm manual as follows:

eighteen terminal plug:

aux channel 3 neg output(300mA) / yellow-blue
aux channel 1 neg output(300mA)/ yellow-black
parking brake neg input / orange-violet
door neg input / blue-black
hood neg input / orange-grey
/ R1 engine temp sensor
carbody(-)     / black
trunk neg input/ orange-white
door pos input / blue red
tach wire      / grey-black
pos output siren/ grey
engine lock neg output(300mA)/ black-white
pos output marker lights (7a)/ green-yellow
pos output marker lights (7a (7a)/ green-black
12v power sully 15 amp fuse/ red
aux channel 4 neg output (300mA) / blue
CAS bypass neg output(300mA) black-red
CAS state neg output(300mA) black-yellow
aux channel 2 neg output (300mA)/ yellow-red

Six Terminal engine starting plug connection:

ignition starting pos output no 1 / yellow
ignition starting pos output no 2 / green
starter pos input (to 50/1 ignition lock contact)/black-white
12v power supply (30 amp fuse) / red
starter activation pos output ( to starter)/black-yellow
CAS enabling pos output/ blue

Connection of six terminal central lock connector:

NO locking relay contact NO / green-white
NC locking relay contact / green-black
NC unlocking relay contact / blue-black
locking relay bridging contact / green
unlocking relay bridging contact / blue
NO unlocking relay contact / blue-white

Now I have the XK06-pkg7 install guide found here:

https://www.bypasskit.com/manuals/420_XK06180_H00_S00_D00_I_EN.pdf

ANd my car diagram found here:

https://www.commandocaralarms.com/wiring/2004-2007/chevrolet/malibumaxx/479.html

or here

https://www.the12volt.com/installbay/forum_posts.asp~TID~85886

I have been using this info and i get no where.. SO i completely pulled it out and now would like if someone would be kind enough to help me out. Just tell me what wire goes where PLEASE and THANKYOU

your forum friend,
WIlliam

The first thing you need to do is to relate what you've written with respect to your alarm next to the instructions for your vehicle.
If you look up your vehicle on the vehicle wiring section you will find a better description.
Write what you think goes where.
We might be able to take it from there.

-------------
Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

Thank you for a reply I noted the info next to wire below

madmaxx2005 wrote:

hello, and thank you for letting me use your forum...

i'm hoping for a quick response as i need to get my wifes car put back together as she says it has been long enough.

To begin I have a spy 5000m 2 way car alarm I purchased online about 6 months ago. I am posting here as I can not figure out the engrish instructions. I contacted the seller he said sorry he don't offer tech support and good luck. Can not contact the manufacturer as it is in Singapore. And no alarm guys around or near where I live will touch it. They rather sell me something else that they know how to install and i cannot spend money on new system and i wouldn't feel comfortable pawning this system off on someone else lol.

ok theese are the wires for the alarm manual as follows:

eighteen terminal plug:

aux channel 3 neg output(300mA) / yellow-blue ** dont use
aux channel 1 neg output(300mA)/ yellow-black ** dont use
parking brake neg input / orange-violet    ** lt blue wire on bcm 1
door neg input / blue-black      ** i think use this one diode isolate
hood neg input / orange-grey ** car has factory hood pin
/ R1 engine temp sensor   **dont know
carbody(-)     / black      ** ground
trunk neg input/ orange-white ** car has trunk pin too
door pos input / blue red   ** dont use
tach wire / grey-black ***Through firewall to injector
pos output siren/ grey   *** through firewall to siren or to horn wire
engine lock neg output(300mA)/ black-white ** dont know
pos output marker lights (7a)/ green-yellow   ** to parkight pos wire
pos output marker lights (7a (7a)/ green-black ** to parkight pos wire
12v power sully 15 amp fuse/ red   12v contant red on bcm 3
aux channel 4 neg output (300mA) / blue    ** dont know/dont use
CAS bypass neg output(300mA) black-red **** dont know
CAS state neg output(300mA) black-yellow **** dont know
aux channel 2 neg output (300mA)/ yellow-red Dont know/dont use

Six Terminal engine starting plug connection:

ignition starting pos output no 1 / yellow   **pink wire bcm
ignition starting pos output no 2 / green *** dont know
starter pos input (to 50/1 ignition lock contact)/black-white****dont know

12v power supply (30 amp fuse) / red ***red bcm
starter activation pos output ( to starter)/black-yellow***dont know
CAS enabling pos output/ blue *** dont know

Connection of six terminal central lock connector:

NO locking relay contact NO / green-white ** dont know
NC locking relay contact / green-black   ** dont know
NC unlocking relay contact / blue-black ** dont know
locking relay bridging contact / green   ** dont know
unlocking relay bridging contact / blue ** dont know
NO unlocking relay contact / blue-white ** dont know

Now I have the XK06-pkg7 install guide found here:

https://www.bypasskit.com/manuals/420_XK06180_H00_S00_D00_I_EN.pdf

ANd my car diagram found here:

https://www.commandocaralarms.com/wiring/2004-2007/chevrolet/malibumaxx/479.html

or here

https://www.the12volt.com/installbay/forum_posts.asp~TID~85886

I have been using this info and i get no where.. SO i completely pulled it out and now would like if someone would be kind enough to help me out. Just tell me what wire goes where PLEASE and THANKYOU

your forum friend,
WIlliam

Good Luck with this one. Need better wire descriptions for this units install.
Here is my best guess.

aux channel 3 neg output(300mA) / yellow-blue NU
aux channel 1 neg output(300mA)/ yellow-black Program for Trunk Release BROWN / WHITE (-) @ TRUNK RELEASE SWITCH or BCM, C1, 72-PIN GRAY PLUG, PIN 71
parking brake neg input / orange-violet                Parking Brake LIGHT BLUE (-) BLUE PLUG BCM
door neg input / blue-black          GRAY/BLACK (-)(DRIVERS) and TAN/WHITE (-)(PASSENGERS)
             Diode isolate all 4 into one       LIGHT BLUE/BLACK (-) and LIGHT GREEN/ BLACK (-) all @ BLUE PLUG IN BCM
hood neg input / orange-grey     Hood Pin supplied with kit
/ R1 engine temp sensor               ???
carbody(-)     / black         Chassis Ground
trunk neg input/ orange-white      Trunk Trigger ORANGE / BLACK (-) BLUE PLUG IN BCM
door pos input / blue red NU
tach wire      / grey-black               Any wire NOT PINK (AC) @ ANY FUEL-INJECTOR
pos output siren/ grey     To supplied siren
engine lock neg output(300mA)/ black-white ??? Starter Kill ???? NU
pos output marker lights (7a)/ green-yellow       BROWN (+) IN DRIVERS KICK PANEL or BCM, C3, 42-PIN RED PLUG, PIN A7
pos output marker lights (7a (7a)/ green-black              NU
12v power sully 15 amp fuse/ red          +12V constant RED / BLACK (+)   @ BCM, C3 RED 41-PIN PLUG, PIN D1
aux channel 4 neg output (300mA) / blue            NU
CAS bypass neg output(300mA) black-red         To XK06 Brown wire
CAS state neg output(300mA) black-yellow        NU
aux channel 2 neg output (300mA)/ yellow-red    NU

Six Terminal engine starting plug connection: One of these should be an Accessory Output

ignition starting pos output no 1 / yellow                     PINK (+) @ IGNITION SWITCH HARNESS or BCM, C4 LT. GRAY, 68-PIN PLUG, PIN D3,
ignition starting pos output no 2 / green         ??? Is this output selectable for Accessory
starter pos input (to 50/1 ignition lock contact)/black-white ??? +12V constant RED / BLACK (+)   @ BCM, C3 RED 41-PIN PLUG, PIN D1
12v power supply (30 amp fuse) / red            +12V constant RED / BLACK (+)   @ BCM, C3 RED 41-PIN PLUG, PIN D1
starter activation pos output ( to starter)/black-yellow             To XK06 Orange
CAS enabling pos output/ blue    ??? BROWN (+) @ IGNITION SWITCH HARNESS or BCM, C4 LT. GRAY, 68-PIN PLUG, PIN C8
Assuming this is the Accessory output

Connection of six terminal central lock connector: One wire (-) resistance system.

NO locking relay contact NO / green-white         Chassis ground
NC locking relay contact / green-black
NC unlocking relay contact / blue-black
locking relay bridging contact / green      white (-) driver kick or BCM, gray 72 pin plug (C1), pin 66
unlocking relay bridging contact / blue     white (-) driver kick or BCM, gray 72 pin plug (C1), pin 66
NO unlocking relay contact / blue-white thru 1.5K ohm resistor to chassis ground

-------------
Soldering is fun!

oh and the bypass kit dont know where the brown ground when running wire would go, i believe i hook the other correctly

i will try this will post back if all is ok. Thank you so much for a response

Might help if you post a picture of the 6 Pin connector. Seeing it, the gauge of the wires and the location of any fuses would be of assistance.

-------------
Soldering is fun!

Theese setting worked!!!!!! woot and big thanks to you!!!!

my wife is so happy, and says BIG /huggs

kreg357 wrote:

Good Luck with this one. Need better wire descriptions for this units install.
Here is my best guess.

aux channel 3 neg output(300mA) / yellow-blue NU
aux channel 1 neg output(300mA)/ yellow-black Program for Trunk Release BROWN / WHITE (-) @ TRUNK RELEASE SWITCH or BCM, C1, 72-PIN GRAY PLUG, PIN 71
parking brake neg input / orange-violet Parking Brake LIGHT BLUE (-) BLUE PLUG BCM
door neg input / blue-black       GRAY/BLACK (-)(DRIVERS) and TAN/WHITE (-)(PASSENGERS)
             Diode isolate all 4 into one       LIGHT BLUE/BLACK (-) and LIGHT GREEN/ BLACK (-) all @ BLUE PLUG IN BCM
hood neg input / orange-grey Hood Pin supplied with kit
/ R1 engine temp sensor                     ???
carbody(-)     / black                Chassis Ground
trunk neg input/ orange-white    Trunk Trigger ORANGE / BLACK (-) BLUE PLUG IN BCM
door pos input / blue red       NU
tach wire      / grey-black        Any wire NOT PINK (AC) @ ANY FUEL-INJECTOR
pos output siren/ grey To supplied siren
engine lock neg output(300mA)/ black-white    ??? Starter Kill ???? NU
pos output marker lights (7a)/ green-yellow       BROWN (+) IN DRIVERS KICK PANEL or BCM, C3, 42-PIN RED PLUG, PIN A7
pos output marker lights (7a (7a)/ green-black NU
12v power sully 15 amp fuse/ red       +12V constant RED / BLACK (+)   @ BCM, C3 RED 41-PIN PLUG, PIN D1
aux channel 4 neg output (300mA) / blue        NU
CAS bypass neg output(300mA) black-red      To XK06 Brown wire
CAS state neg output(300mA) black-yellow        NU
aux channel 2 neg output (300mA)/ yellow-red    NU

Six Terminal engine starting plug connection: One of these should be an Accessory Output

ignition starting pos output no 1 / yellow                  PINK (+) @ IGNITION SWITCH HARNESS or BCM, C4 LT. GRAY, 68-PIN PLUG, PIN D3,
ignition starting pos output no 2 / green       ??? Is this output selectable for Accessory
starter pos input (to 50/1 ignition lock contact)/black-white ??? +12V constant RED / BLACK (+)   @ BCM, C3 RED 41-PIN PLUG, PIN D1
12v power supply (30 amp fuse) / red       +12V constant RED / BLACK (+)   @ BCM, C3 RED 41-PIN PLUG, PIN D1
starter activation pos output ( to starter)/black-yellow             To XK06 Orange
CAS enabling pos output/ blue       ??? BROWN (+) @ IGNITION SWITCH HARNESS or BCM, C4 LT. GRAY, 68-PIN PLUG, PIN C8
Assuming this is the Accessory output

Connection of six terminal central lock connector:   One wire (-) resistance system.

NO locking relay contact NO / green-white        Chassis ground
NC locking relay contact / green-black
NC unlocking relay contact / blue-black
locking relay bridging contact / green    white (-) driver kick or BCM, gray 72 pin plug (C1), pin 66
unlocking relay bridging contact / blue white (-) driver kick or BCM, gray 72 pin plug (C1), pin 66
NO unlocking relay contact / blue-white thru 1.5K ohm resistor to chassis ground

Cool. A warm car on a cold morning is a wonderful thing. A happy wife is even better. posted_image

-------------
Soldering is fun!

thick gauge wire fuse farthest from conector

i jumped to conclusion, it starts but only runs 30 seconds or less, why could that be?

kreg357 wrote:

Cool. A warm car on a cold morning is a wonderful thing. A happy wife is even better.

Tach? Bypass?

Did you connect the Tach wire to the F.I.? Is there a Tach Learning procedure that must be done?

Did you connect all the wires on the XK06 as per the PKG7 diagram? Did it program properly to the MAXX ( Page 3 Section c )?

-------------
Soldering is fun!

I will recheck Tach wire
everything else is the way diagram says

kreg357 wrote:

Tach? Bypass?

Did you connect the Tach wire to the F.I.? Is there a Tach Learning procedure that must be done?

Did you connect all the wires on the XK06 as per the PKG7 diagram? Did it program properly to the MAXX ( Page 3 Section c )?

Some remote start units require a specific Tach Learn procedure to teach the remote starter what to look for and what represents a running engine. So besides connecting the Tach wire, you must do something to allow the remote starter to learn the vehicles' Tach signal. Here is the procedure for a Compustar CM6200 remote starter ( example only, your system will be different ) :

Learn tach by: (1.) Starting the vehicle with the key, (2.) Press and hold the foot brake, then (3.) Activate the
remote start sequence - one chirp and parking light flash indicates that the vehicle tach signal has been
successfully learned. Three chirps and three parking light flashes indicate that the control module failed to
see a proper tachometer signal.

Did this XK06 w/PKG7 programming happen correctly? This procedure allows the bypass to learn the Passlock2 / immobilizer signals.

1) Connect module , LED turns on for 2 seconds, then goes off.
2) Press and hold the programming button, LED comes on.
3) Start vehicle by key, LED will flash 3 times.
4) Release program button. Module is programmed.

-------------
Soldering is fun!

Thanks Kregg, I thought I'd watch some telly here.

-------------
Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

ok dumb question, dont think i hooked it to injector, so... where would this wire be on 05 malibu maxx lol cant seem to find and running outta daylight

kreg357 wrote:

Some remote start units require a specific Tach Learn procedure to teach the remote starter what to look for and what represents a running engine. So besides connecting the Tach wire, you must do something to allow the remote starter to learn the vehicles' Tach signal. Here is the procedure for a Compustar CM6200 remote starter ( example only, your system will be different ) :

Learn tach by: (1.) Starting the vehicle with the key, (2.) Press and hold the foot brake, then (3.) Activate the
remote start sequence - one chirp and parking light flash indicates that the vehicle tach signal has been
successfully learned. Three chirps and three parking light flashes indicate that the control module failed to
see a proper tachometer signal.

Did this XK06 w/PKG7 programming happen correctly? This procedure allows the bypass to learn the Passlock2 / immobilizer signals.

1) Connect module , LED turns on for 2 seconds, then goes off.
2) Press and hold the programming button, LED comes on.
3) Start vehicle by key, LED will flash 3 times.
4) Release program button. Module is programmed.

How many cylinders?
One for each on top of cylinder heads on fuel rail.
Two wires to each, one colour common to ALL.
You need ANY ONE of the uncommon colours.
Test as follows.
Set DMM to 20VAC not DC.
Then black probe to ground, red probe to suspect wire you should get a reading of 3-5VAC, increasing slightly if you rev up.
All you need to do now is to go back to your original install guide and see what it says about programming tach.
Now you see why we are loathe to get involved with these "unknown" brands.

-------------
Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

yes i doand i will never make that mistake again.

if my tach wire goes under hood then i have to pull my intake off cause my injectors are faceing down wards under that

is there another solution to this tach wire or is this only way

howie ll wrote:

How many cylinders?
One for each on top of cylinder heads on fuel rail.
Two wires to each, one colour common to ALL.
You need ANY ONE of the uncommon colours.
Test as follows.
Set DMM to 20VAC not DC.
Then black probe to ground, red probe to suspect wire you should get a reading of 3-5VAC, increasing slightly if you rev up.
All you need to do now is to go back to your original install guide and see what it says about programming tach.
Now you see why we are loathe to get involved with these "unknown" brands.

there is ONLY 1 injector i can get to without pulling intake off and it has 2 wires one pink one brown... could i connect to that brown wire or it would have to be different injector?

madmaxx2005 wrote:

yes i doand i will never make that mistake again.

if my tach wire goes under hood then i have to pull my intake off cause my injectors are faceing down wards under that

is there another solution to this tach wire or is this only way
howie ll wrote:

How many cylinders?
One for each on top of cylinder heads on fuel rail.
Two wires to each, one colour common to ALL.
You need ANY ONE of the uncommon colours.
Test as follows.
Set DMM to 20VAC not DC.
Then black probe to ground, red probe to suspect wire you should get a reading of 3-5VAC, increasing slightly if you rev up.
All you need to do now is to go back to your original install guide and see what it says about programming tach.
Now you see why we are loathe to get involved with these "unknown" brands.

The brown, pink is the common colour don't use.
Test: Pink should go to 12VDC with ignition on.

-------------
Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

I bet spark plug changes are a joy, mines a crossways (FWD)4 cam V6, the back three are covered by the induction gear PLUS wiring air inlet, breathers, wiring (about 8 plugs) and throttle linkage plus only platinum plugs at $11 each.

-------------
Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

does the tach wire lead inside car somewhere to hook to it there? or does it have to be connected at injector?

Go for the injector. It will be the most reliable source.

-------------
When all else fails, Read the Instructions
Support the12volt.com Make a Donation

i cant for the life of me get through the firewall gromets and then now my blue light for my alarm isnt doing anything

Try using a piece of metal coat hanger to get through the grommet.

-------------
When all else fails, Read the Instructions
Support the12volt.com Make a Donation

ive tried that. and a screw driver to make a hole there is some thing not allowing me.. also do you know what would be makeing alarm led not
respond anymore?

I will repeat, now you know why we loathe getting involved in these unknown brands.
You've either dislodged a power or ground.
Dislodged the LED lead.
Failed LED.
Fried the unit.

-------------
Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

Please be very careful using any sharp tools when trying to pass a wire thru a firewall grommet that has existing wires or harnesses.

-------------
Soldering is fun!

Tell me about it. My Citroen adventure cost the company insurance $9000.

-------------
Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

Good lesson to learn, "Never work on Citroens"! Drilling holes can be worse...

-------------
Soldering is fun!

Actually, on a predecessor sister car, Peugeot 106 (think Chevys and Pontiacs)I managed to drill a fuel line on TWO separate occasions!

-------------
Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

ok so i am leaveing an update hooked tach wire up...

when i start it sometimes it stays running and set for run time 20 minutes other ties it runs for 30 seconds and shuts down

what could be possibly causing this any ideas...

Double check all your connections, especially the chassis grounds. As a matter of course, all connections should be well soldered and properly insulated. Aside from that, there is the slightest possibility that your imported R/S unit is not of the highest quality... posted_image

-------------
Soldering is fun!

Slightest? How many hints do you need madMaxx?
Sorry but I did hint at that probability earlier.

-------------
Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

Maybe as Howie and Kreg imply that this not being the highest quality unit, you might want to trash can the whole thing and get a more reliable unit to avoid issues days or months or hours from now. You have it all open, just a matter of swapping units and wire harness.

-------------
When all else fails, Read the Instructions
Support the12volt.com Make a Donation

i will check my grounds and all my wires. i plan on soldering connections but want to make sure it all works before makeing it more perminant. I would switch it out but wifey dont want me to spend the money lol says i best figure it out or she is going to duel me in a game we play called everquest and kill me lol... she is a cleric and im a warrior lol

Bin it or the wife's going to kill you

-------------
Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

Nice one Howie....

-------------
When all else fails, Read the Instructions
Support the12volt.com Make a Donation

Well , i hope everyones turkey day was great.

At this current time I am now haveing a hard to get the remote start part of said alarm(trash) to even start. so now im back to the drawing board. If someone could re look over page 1 of this post maybe soething is left out (or not) just curious as to why it was doing what it was and now it wont start at all, without useing the key

ok so i reviewed everything from this post, double and triple checked connections, now unless im a total retard, (id like to think im not but thats up for debate lol) the remote start should work properly... but at this point dash lights com on and alarm box just clicks ( no start what so ever at this point) and led light does not blink or even respond to presses of the valet switch. doors will lock and unlock still and alarm works but no led reponse nor and remote start, cant even get into programing mode like i was before, Please any help would be great ..

Thankyou

Unfortunately, I'm not familiar with your R/S unit and can't find an install guide ( even a
poorly written one ) to use as reference. With other systems that I've installed before, there
are quirks or sequences that must be followed during install. Things like : program to Tach Mode,
do the Tach Learn procedure, then try a remote start.

The good news is the locks and alarm work OK. The fact that the R/S portion seem to be working for
a while and then stopped would suggest a wire connection came loose or is faulty or intermittent

There is a possibility that the heavy gauge wires from the 6 Pin starting plug are not exactly
correct. Due to the poor wire description and lack of any documentation, ther were several wires
that I wasn't positive about ( marked with ??? ).

ignition starting pos output no 1 / yellow        PINK (+) @ IGNITION SWITCH HARNESS or BCM, C4 LT. GRAY, 68-PIN PLUG, PIN D3,
ignition starting pos output no 2 / green         ??? Is this output selectable for Accessory
starter pos input (to 50/1 ignition lock contact)/black-white ??? +12V constant RED / BLACK (+)   @ BCM, C3 RED 41-PIN PLUG, PIN D1
12v power supply (30 amp fuse) / red             +12V constant RED / BLACK (+)   @ BCM, C3 RED 41-PIN PLUG, PIN D1
starter activation pos output ( to starter)/black-yellow To XK06 Orange
CAS enabling pos output/ blue              ??? BROWN (+) @ IGNITION SWITCH HARNESS or BCM, C4 LT. GRAY, 68-PIN PLUG, PIN C8
                 Assuming this is the Accessory output

These two highlighted wires above are possibly wrong. Other than that, everything looks OK. While
the XK06 looks like it is programmed properly, it can be difficult to troubleshoot / test the Passlock2
immobilizer system effectively.

-------------
Soldering is fun!

check back in a few ima type out whta manual says for wire description

Six Terminal Central Block Connector

Red Wire(No.4)- power "+" from +12V, connect to possitive battery contactor

Blue Wire(No.2)- car alarm system (CAS) activation control output, connect to CAS contactor of ignition lock.

Yellow Wire(No.5)- ignition supply output No.1 connect to ignition lock terminal

Green Wire(No.6)- ignition supply output No.1 with programmable algorithm

Black-Yellow Wire(No.1)- power output to starter. connect to starting relay. If starter locking is required, cut standard wire connecting ignition lock with starter

Black-White Wire(No.3)- input controlling starter activation from ignition lock. Used only if it is necessary to lock starter and prevent its accidental turning during remote engine preheating, connect to 50/1 contactor of ignition lock.

Connection of Eighteen-terminal Central Block Connector

Red Wire(No.4)- power"+" from +12V, connect to positive battery contactor.

Black Wire(No.9)- power "-", securely to car body

Green-Black Wire(No.10)- connect to flash lights or direction indicators lamps

Green-Yellow Wire(No.11)- connect to flash lights or direction indicators lamps

Grey Wire(No.13)- positive siren control output.

Blue-Black Wire(No.17)- connect to door button switches, which upon door release contact to frame.

Blue-Red Wire(No.7)- connect to door button switches, which upon door release contact to +12V.

Orange-Grey Wire(No.18)- connect to trunk button switches contacted to frame in case of trunk release. should not have trunk light. .

Orange-White Wire(No.8)- connect to hood button switches contacted to frame in case of hood release.

Yellow-Black Wire(No.15)- negative output of auxiliary channel No.1.

Yellow-Red Wire(No.5)- negative output of auxiliary channel No.2.

Yellow-Blue Wire(No.14)- negative output of auxiliary channel No.3.

Blue Wire(No.2)- negative output of auxiliary channel No.4.

Black-Yellow Wire(No.4)- negative output of alarm state, The output is activated upon protection mode enabling.

Black-White Wire(No.12)- negative output of alarm state,May be used to lock engines with normally-opened(NO) or normally-closed(NC) operating algorithm.

Black-Red Wire(No.3)- negative output of alarm state,The output is activated upon activation of turbotimer and engine starting. May be used in starting mode to restore blocked engine circuits.

Orange-Violet Wire(No.16)- negative ouptut of parking brake or pedal state.

Grey-Black Wire(No.6)- engine work control input.

Are you connections to the ignition wires soldered or some sort of T-Tap or Scotchlock?

-------------
When all else fails, Read the Instructions
Support the12volt.com Make a Donation

smokeman1 wrote:

Are you connections to the ignition wires soldered or some sort of T-Tap or Scotchlock?

I didnt cut wires if not needed. i strip part of wire then feen new wire through existing and then wrap around.. if that anwsers your question. once i know it all works and wires are correct them i will soder and make perminant

any luck with theese to from my description

ignition starting pos output no 2 / green    ??? Is this output selectable for Accessory
starter pos input (to 50/1 ignition lock contact)/black-white ??? +12V constant RED / BLACK (+)   @ BCM, C3 RED 41-PIN PLUG, PIN D1
12v power supply (30 amp fuse) / red        +12V constant RED / BLACK (+)   @ BCM, C3 RED 41-PIN PLUG, PIN D1
starter activation pos output ( to starter)/black-yellow To XK06 Orange
CAS enabling pos output/ blue       ??? BROWN (+) @ IGNITION SWITCH HARNESS or BCM, C4 LT. GRAY, 68-PIN PLUG, PIN C8
                  Assuming this is the Accessory output

Well here is what I think they mean. There are several wires that I can't figure out. Is there any
programming options listed?

Six Terminal Central Block Connector

Red Wire(No.4)- +12V constant power

Blue Wire(No.2)- car alarm system (CAS) activation control output, connect to CAS contactor of ignition lock.

Yellow Wire(No.5)- (+) ignition1 output

Green Wire(No.6)- (+) ignition supply output No.1 with programmable algorithm *** need more info - possible Flex relay? Programmable?

Black-Yellow Wire(No.1)- (+) starter ( motor side - if Starter Kill is used. Like Viper Violet wire )

Black-White Wire(No.3)- Starter 87A ( key side - if Starter Kill is Used. Like Viper Green wire )

Connection of Eighteen-terminal Central Block Connector

Red Wire(No.4)- +12V constant power

Black Wire(No.9)- Chassis Ground

Green-Black Wire(No.10)- Parking Light output or direction indicators lamps ??? not sure of Polarity

Green-Yellow Wire(No.11)- Parking Light output or direction indicators lamps ??? not sure of Polarity

Grey Wire(No.13)- (+) siren output

Blue-Black Wire(No.17)- (-) Door Status Input

Blue-Red Wire(No.7)- (+) Door Status Input

Orange-Grey Wire(No.18)- (-) Trunk Release output

Orange-White Wire(No.8)- (-) Hood Pin input

Yellow-Black Wire(No.15)- (-) aux1 output

Yellow-Red Wire(No.5)- (-) aux2 output

Yellow-Blue Wire(No.14)- (-) aux3 output

Blue Wire(No.2)- (-) aux4 output

Black-Yellow Wire(No.4)- (-) Ground When Armed

Black-White Wire(No.12)- negative output of alarm state,May be used to lock engines with normally-opened(NO) or normally-closed(NC) operating algorithm.

Black-Red Wire(No.3)- (-) GWR Turbo timer ???

Orange-Violet Wire(No.16)- (-) Parking Brake input

Grey-Black Wire(No.6)- Engine Sensing ??? Tach input

Do you have a name, make, model number that we might be able to find an install manual somewhere on the WEB?

-------------
Soldering is fun!

it is just a SPY 5000m 2way car alarm this is the box right here. they got one on ebay. i looked on box, control module, for a model or serial number and no luck

ive looked everywhere lol for a better one, and nothing, it always points me back to the motorcycle version of this . forgot to put link in my last post. here it is https://compare./like/160922817262?var=lv<yp=AllFixedPriceItemTypes&var=sbar

Here are some links to the Chinese manufacturer & product :

https://car-alarm-kingsley.en.made-in-china.com/product/celnbjoUnDVi/China-Two-Way-Car-Alarm-C1S-806-.html

https://www.made-in-china.com/productdirectory.do?subaction=hunt&mode=and&style=b&word=C1S-806&isOpenCorrection=1&comProvince=nolimit&code=0

Still can't get to an online install guide.

-------------
Soldering is fun!

kreg357 wrote:

Here are some links to the Chinese manufacturer & product :

https://car-alarm-kingsley.en.made-in-china.com/product/celnbjoUnDVi/China-Two-Way-Car-Alarm-C1S-806-.html

https://www.made-in-china.com/productdirectory.do?subaction=hunt&mode=and&style=b&word=C1S-806&isOpenCorrection=1&comProvince=nolimit&code=0

Still can't get to an online install guide.

the one you posted dont look like mine..

just in case i can not get this figured out what is a good alarm/ remote start 2 way alarm with like 4 aux channels and 2 lcd screen remotes, perferably color display

Tough question. Most major brands have only one 2way remote included with their systems. The other included remote is a 1way remote, no display. Of course you can add another 2way remote but that will cost extra.

The other issue is number of AUX outputs. Most systems have door locks and trunk release plus two other AUX outputs ( Compustar ). Newer, top shelf Viper systems have 4 AUX outputs.

The biggest issue will be price. While your system was probably under $100, Compustar and Viper systems will cost around $300.

-------------
Soldering is fun!

kreg357 wrote:

Tough question. Most major brands have only one 2way remote included with their systems. The other included remote is a 1way remote, no display. Of course you can add another 2way remote but that will cost extra.

The other issue is number of AUX outputs. Most systems have door locks and trunk release plus two other AUX outputs ( Compustar ). Newer, top shelf Viper systems have 4 AUX outputs.

The biggest issue will be price. While your system was probably under $100, Compustar and Viper systems will cost around $300.

ok this is the alarm i have https://www.amazon.com/LCD-Remote-Start-Series-SPY-V2/dp/B004IUQNUY

im not gonna worry about price, cause obviously i got what i paid for, so this time I want to do it right,, sujestions based on the features I gave, would be apreciated..

and btw thank you for trying to help.. it is very nice