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remote starter shift stuck

Printed From: the12volt.com
Forum Name: Car Security and Convenience
Forum Discription: Car Alarms, Keyless Entries, Remote Starters, Immobilizer Bypasses, Sensors, Door Locks, Window Modules, Heated Mirrors, Heated Seats, etc.
URL: https://www.the12volt.com/installbay/forum_posts.asp?tid=132744
Printed Date: May 16, 2024 at 4:01 PM


Topic: remote starter shift stuck

Posted By: voltswagon
Subject: remote starter shift stuck
Date Posted: November 21, 2012 at 6:05 PM

Vehicle name:     2005 Colorado CC I4
Remote Starter:  Bulldog 500 Delux 2 way paging
Bypass Module:  Xpresskit PLJX

Got the car to start remotely.
Tested starter kill by pressing brake, works.

What doesn't work is, Can't shift to D or any gear with key to "ACC" or "ON"
Noticed that when engine starts, no dash no radio no anything is on which it should be.
Everything work as normal by using the key. Everything lights up.

So what wires controls this function, accessories wire is already hook up from RS to IG.

Bulldog and expresskit tech was very helpful until now.

posted_image

posted_image



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Dont Drive and Text, but
Do Text Then Drive



Replies:

Posted By: lurch228
Date Posted: November 22, 2012 at 12:21 AM
Verify that H1/6 is hooked to and putting out (+)12v when remote started. And check the Remote starter 20amp fuses. If fuse is good and no (+)12v output on H1/6 then you probally have a bad internal relay in the unit.

Audiovox
Accessory 1 BROWN (+) IGNTION HARNESS
   WILL ALSO BE WHITE/ BROWN DEPENDING ON WHERE YOU CATCH THE WIRE

Directwire
Accessory WHITE/ red + ignition switch, green 6 pin plug, pin 1


Bulldog
ACCESSORY /HEATER BLOWER 1

WHITE/ RED to BROWN (+)

@ IGNITION SWITCH, PIN 1 or BCM, GRAY PLUG, PIN B7, SEE NOTE #2
NOTE #2: The BCM is located in the Passenger Kick Panel.




Posted By: voltswagon
Date Posted: November 22, 2012 at 10:30 AM
yes verified h1/6 out 12v when remote start
yes verifies accessories out 12v when key start
no accessories out 0v when key takeover with brake kill
yes verified connection between them good contact
all 4 fuse from brain are intact.

tested with volt/ohmeter.

Now you're probably confused as I am.

-------------
Dont Drive and Text, but
Do Text Then Drive




Posted By: lurch228
Date Posted: November 22, 2012 at 2:46 PM
Sounds like a MUX issue with the vehicle Verify that the PLJX wires are not swapped to the vehicle Second Starter and then try resetting and re-programming the PLJX to the vehicle or course you will need to disconect the PLJX (-)brown from the remote start to do this. IE Repeat STEP 2 for PLJX.

Second Starter WHITE/ blue (resistor code), wht/yel (5V reference) mux ignition switch, green 6 pin plug, pins 4 and 5
Ignition WHITE/ green + ignition switch, green 6 pin plug, pin 3   
Second Ignition N/A       
Third Ignition N/A       
Accessory WHITE/ red + ignition switch, green 6 pin plug, pin 1   
Second Accessory same as second starter       
Keysense same as second starter     

Aslo try this:
TECH NOTE:
If experiencing trouble programming, try: A) Turn key to the ignition position, press on brake and place transmission into gear.
B) Now turn key to start position and release, continue with step “B” of previous programming.




Posted By: voltswagon
Date Posted: November 22, 2012 at 5:17 PM

That's what I thought. 
I'd Contacted Xpresskit Tech, they said the purpose of the PLJX is to make it starts, which it did so it's not the module.

Here's what I'm confused about.  Its says:
System preset to overide the following ion passlock tyep use on: Saturn ION, Colorado, Cobalt, Canyon, Pursuit
In the picture attached, it was jumped Vertical and but manual said to jump Horizontal(passlock1).  Also, I've read somewhere here that Colorado is passlock2.
Right now, I have it set at passlock1(the way it came), I will change it to Vertical per manual and see.

posted_image



-------------
Dont Drive and Text, but
Do Text Then Drive




Posted By: lurch228
Date Posted: November 22, 2012 at 5:33 PM
The jumper is for timing settings for the different types of systems, as each has a different requirement as to when the different resistences need to be seen for the MUX. The MUX resistence uses the single wire to control multiple circuits. IE Keysense is one resistence, Starter 2 is another, and Second Accessory is yet another. Which the vehilce BCM controls via relays.




Posted By: voltswagon
Date Posted: November 22, 2012 at 6:00 PM
Thanks for helping me trouble shoot this.  The tech from Bulldog and PLJX was stomped.  I'll try it tomorrow to reprogram the module.  I have to work tonight(yes, Thanksgiving).  So you agree, I should try the jumper on the first top picture?

-------------
Dont Drive and Text, but
Do Text Then Drive




Posted By: lurch228
Date Posted: November 22, 2012 at 6:29 PM
Yes it's required to operate correctly with you security system. Which is why you aren't getting the proper resistence on the MUX(Blue) data ECM side for the Accessory turn on.




Posted By: voltswagon
Date Posted: November 23, 2012 at 10:01 AM
Wooh Hoooo! That was it. Just the wrong jumper. Retailer must of mess with the jumper prior to shipment or it was customer return because it wasn't set to default as it suppose to.
Also, I didn't even had to connect the RS acc wire. I might just use that for other output.

Thanks again LURCH228!

Now the main part is done. I can hook up the other options, lights and door and whatever is available.

-------------
Dont Drive and Text, but
Do Text Then Drive




Posted By: lurch228
Date Posted: November 23, 2012 at 1:03 PM
Good to hear that it works now. It's very important to follow all instructions and setting to the letter or you will have issues like yours. That why it's so important to read then read again and double and tripple check all wiring settings and jumpers especially the jumpers with the DEI stuff. And it will work right the first time and avoid these issues the majority of the time.





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