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viper 5704 and idatalink ads tb in tacomaPrinted From: the12volt.comForum Name: Car Security and Convenience Forum Discription: Car Alarms, Keyless Entries, Remote Starters, Immobilizer Bypasses, Sensors, Door Locks, Window Modules, Heated Mirrors, Heated Seats, etc. URL: https://www.the12volt.com/installbay/forum_posts.asp?tid=132753 Printed Date: May 01, 2025 at 6:28 PM Topic: viper 5704 and idatalink ads tb in tacoma Posted By: riverdogg Subject: viper 5704 and idatalink ads tb in tacoma Date Posted: November 23, 2012 at 3:38 AM I'm planning out my first install of a Viper 5704 and an iDataLink ADS-TB transponder bypass in my 2005 Toyota Tacoma. I've gathered tons of info from searching several threads on the12volt. I've put together how I'm planning on wiring everything but have a few questions that I could really use some expertise on. Thanks!
Vehicle: 2005 Toyota Tacoma Prerunner SR5, 4-door, V6 Alarm: Viper 5704 with remote start Transponder Bypass: iDataLink ADS-TB A) Main harness, 6-pin connector Wire 5704 Color Tacoma Color Tacoma Location ---------------------------------------------------------------------- H1/1 Red WHITE/ Blue (+) Ignition Switch Harness H1/2 Black Ground Chassis Ground H1/3 Brown NA Connects with siren H1/4 WHITE/ Brown NA H1/5 White Green (+) Fuse Box H1/6 Orange Blue/White[on bypass] Bypass B) Door Lock, 3-Pin connector Wire 5704 Color Tacoma Color Tacoma Location ---------------------------------------------------------------------- ? 1 Blue Gray (-) Driver's Kick panel into door 2 Empty ? 3 Green Blue/White (-) Driver's Kick panel into door C) Auxiliary/Shutdown/Trigger Harness, 24-pin connector Wire 5704 Color Tacoma Color Tacoma Location ---------------------------------------------------------------------- H2/1 Pink/White NA H2/2 BLACK/ White Ground H2/3 Blue/White NA H2/4 GREEN/ Black NA H2/5 RED / White NA ? H2/6 Green FL Door: GREEN/ YELLOW (-) ? FR Door: RED / Black (-)? Rear L&R Doors: Pink/Black (-) ? H2/7 BLACK / YELLOW Blue (-) Fusebox H2/8 BROWN / Black H2/9 Dark Blue H2/10 Pink H2/11 WHITE/ Black H2/12 Violet H2/13 WHITE/ Violet H2/14 Violet/Black H2/15 ORANGE / Black H2/16 Brown H2/17 Gray H2/18 Violet / YELLOW H2/19 Blue H2/20 Grey/Black H2/21 WHITE/ Blue H2/22 Orange H2/23 Violet/White H2/24 GREEN / WHITE Replies: Posted By: kreg357 Date Posted: November 23, 2012 at 5:28 AM A few thoughts... Unless you have the ADS USB cable and registered iDatalink WEB site access or a source for a flashed Multi Series A few notes on the Lock and Unlock wires from DEI : Power Lock blue/white (-) driver kick, white 10 pin plug, pin 6 Factory Alarm Arm purple (driver door key cylinder lock) (-) driver kick, white 10 pin plug, pin 4 Remember to set the Vipers internal jumper/fuse to (+) if you go with (+) Parking Lights. H1/6 is not used for the bypass. Use H2/19 ( or H2/3 ). H2/1 Pink/White NA (-) Flex ------------- Soldering is fun! Posted By: kreg357 Date Posted: November 23, 2012 at 5:40 AM H3 harness The vehicle has a Starter2 wire that must be power separately. Use an external 30/40 Amp SPDT relay ------------- Soldering is fun! Posted By: riverdogg Date Posted: November 23, 2012 at 7:24 AM Sorry guys, I messed up my own first post and hit Post New Topic instead of Preview Post before I was ready to post. (Face-palm) So feel free to take a few jabs at me. And thanks to kreg357 for jumping on this and already helping me out!
I'm planning out my first install of a Viper 5704 and an iDataLink ADS-TB transponder bypass in my 2005 Toyota Tacoma. I've gathered tons of info from searching several threads on the12volt. I've put together a chart on how I'm planning on wiring everything but have a few questions that I could really use some expertise on. Thanks! Vehicle: 2005 Toyota Tacoma Prerunner SR5, 4-door, V6 Alarm: Viper 5704 with remote start Transponder Bypass: iDataLink ADS-TB (It’s been flashed with the appropriate firmware) I put a number before each connection I have a question about. Example: (1). Below the chart are the corresponding questions. I hope this way of doing it isn't too confusing. If you notice anything else that is wrong or just plain weird, please chime in about that too. Main harness, 6-pin connector Wire 5704 Color Tacoma Color Tacoma Location ---------------------------------------------------------------------- H1/1 Red WHITE/ Blue (+) Ignition Switch Harness H1/2 Black Ground Chassis Ground H1/3 Brown NA Connects with siren H1/4 WHITE/ Brown NA H1/5 White Green (+) Fuse Box (Viper’s jumper set to +) H1/6 Orange NA Door Lock, 3-Pin connector Wire 5704 Color Tacoma Color Tacoma Location ---------------------------------------------------------------------- 1 Blue GREEN/ Black Driver's Kick panel into door 2 Empty 3 Green Purple Driver's Kick panel into door Auxiliary/Shutdown/Trigger Harness, 24-pin connector Wire 5704 Color Tacoma Color Tacoma Location ---------------------------------------------------------------------- H2/1 Pink/White NA H2/2 BLACK/ White Ground H2/3 Blue/White NA H2/4 GREEN/ Black NA H2/5 RED / White NA H2/6 Green FL Door: GREEN/ YELLOW (-) H2/6 Green FR Door: RED / Black (-) H2/6 Green Rear L&R Doors: Pink/Black (-) (1) H2/7 BLACK / YELLOW Blue (-) Fusebox (2) H2/8 BROWN / Black GREEN/ Red (-) Fusebox (3) H2/9 Dark Blue Blue/White (on bypass) Bypass H2/10 Pink NA H2/11 WHITE/ Black NA H2/12 Violet NA H2/13 WHITE/ Violet NA H2/14 Violet/Black NA H2/15 ORANGE / Black NA H2/16 Brown Blue (+) Brake H2/17 Gray Hood pin switch H2/18* Violet / YELLOW BLACK/ White (+) Ignition Switch H2/19 Blue NA H2/20 Grey/Black NA H2/21 WHITE/ Blue NA H2/22 Orange NA H2/23 Violet/White BLACK/ White (AC) Data Link Connector H2/24 GREEN / WHITE NA *H2/18. This needs to run through a 30/40A SPDT relay and be wired as follows: Relay Pin 85 to Viper H2/18 Violet / YELLOW (-) 200mA Starter Output Relay Pin 86 and 87 to +12V constant with 20 A fuse Relay Pin 30 to Tacoma Starter2 BLACK/ White @ ignition switch harness Relay Pin 87A not used - insulate Remote Start, 10-pin heavy gauge connector Wire 5704 Color Tacoma Color Tacoma Location ---------------------------------------------------------------------- (4) H3/1 Pink BLACK/ Red (+) Ignition Switch (5) H3/2 RED / White WHITE/ Red(+) Ignition Switch H3/3 Orange WHITE/ Green (+) Ignition Switch (6) H3/4 Violet GREEN/ Black (+) (car side) Ignition Switch (6) H3/5 Green GREEN/ Black (+) (key side) Ignition Switch H3/6 Red WHITE/ Blue(+) Ignition Switch H3/7 Pink/White Blue / YELLOW (+) Ignition Switch H3/8 Pink/Black NA H3/9 RED / Black WHITE/ Blue (+) Ignition Switch H3/10 Empty iDataLink ADS-TB Transponder Bypass Wire Bypass Color Tacoma/Viper Color Tacoma/Viper Location ---------------------------------------------------------------------- GWR (-) Input Blue/White Dark Blue Viper, H2/9 Ground Black Black Viper,H1/2 12V (+) Red Red Viper, H1/1 Ignition (+) Input Pink Pink Viper, H3/1 NC Pink/Black NA NC Orange NA NC Grey / YELLOW NA TXCT Gray/Red LtGREEN/ Red Ignition switch, 7-pin, pin 5 NC GREEN/ YELLOW NA Code GREEN/ Red Pink/Green Ignition switch, 7-pin, pin 4 NC Blue / YELLOW NA NC Blue/Red NA ---------------------------------------------------------------------- ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Questions (1) Do I need a relay for the Dome Light Supervision wire (H2/7)? If yes, how would I wire that relay? (2) I’m not sure I need to connect the Horn Honk Output (H2/8). Wouldn’t connecting this just honk the horn in addition to the sounding siren when the alarm is triggered? Should I connect this? (3) Does the Status Output (H2/9) connect to the GWR of the bypass? Or is the Status Output left empty and GWR of the bypass goes to H2/19? (4) I'm thinking the Ignition (+) Input on the bypass and the Viper’s Ignition 1 Input/Output (H3/1) both connect to the vehicle’s Ignition 1 wire. Is this correct? (5) The 12V wire from the bypass as well as H1/1, H3/6, and H3/9 all connect to the same WHITE/ Blue 12 volt constant in the ignition switch harness. I’m assuming the answer is yes, but can I connect these four wires together and then connect them to the WHITE/ Blue 12 volt constant wire? (6) From what I’ve gathered, I need to cut the Starter 1 wire in the ignition switch harness. Then take the car side of the Starter 1 wire and connect it to H3/4. And then take the key side of the Starter 1 wire and connect it to H3/5. I'm fairly certain this is right. I'm just a little apprehensive about cutting my truck's starter wire. I guess I'd just like conformation that this is right. Thank you for your help! Posted By: kreg357 Date Posted: November 23, 2012 at 8:15 AM 1. You may not need Dome Light Supervision. Does the dome light come on with an Unlock from 2. Horn Honk output is optional. You do have an alarm siren. 3. Sorry about that, I saw Blue with no label and thought GWR. ADS GWR goes to Viper (-) Status Output H2/9 4. Yes, you can connect the bypass's Pink Ignition wire to the Vipers thick Pink Ignition which then continues on 5. All four Viper Power wires need to be connected to an adequate +12V source. There are two +12V constant 6. Yes, for Viper Starter Kill, you must cut the vehicles starter wire. However if you don't want this ------------- Soldering is fun! Posted By: riverdogg Date Posted: November 23, 2012 at 1:30 PM Thanks for all the info!
1. Yes, the dome light comes on with the factory FOBs. Because of this, I shouldn't need to connect the Dome Light Supervision, right? 5. Is it possible to connect two wires to one of the 12V constant wires at the ignition and the other two wires to the 12V constant at the fuse box? I'm thinking this might reduce the overall power draw on one wire (i.e. it might be safer). If this is possible, does it make a difference on which wires go to each of the 12V constant wires? Posted By: kreg357 Date Posted: November 23, 2012 at 2:59 PM 1. Yes, Domelight Supervision shouldn't be necessary. 5. Definitely, split the Viper power wires between vehicle +12V constants to distribute the load and make for an easier install. The ADS TB is a good choice. Easy to program and very reliable. Good luck with the install! ------------- Soldering is fun! Posted By: riverdogg Date Posted: November 23, 2012 at 4:54 PM Great! Thanks for the info kreg. You've been invaluable! I'll hopefully start on all of this tomorrow morning and have it up and running tomorrow afternoon.
Posted By: riverdogg Date Posted: November 23, 2012 at 5:51 PM One more quick question before I go to Radio Shack and get my supplies. Are 1 amp diodes good enough for the H2/6 connections to each of the door triggers? I'm thinking a 1 amp like THIS should work. Or do I need a larger diode? Thanks!
Posted By: kreg357 Date Posted: November 23, 2012 at 6:01 PM Yes, they ( 1N4005 ) will work. Actually any 1N400x diode should be OK.
------------- Soldering is fun! Posted By: kreg357 Date Posted: November 23, 2012 at 7:12 PM That diode price is outrageous! For 2 diodes? Most installers buy in quantity, but 2 cents each is a good price for 100 pieces. Think RadioShack also has an assortment pack of 25 diodes containing 1N4001 thru 1N4007 diodes for $2.99. Might need the extra diodes once the family and friends find out you install R/S systems... ------------- Soldering is fun! Posted By: riverdogg Date Posted: November 24, 2012 at 3:12 AM Yeah, I know Radio Shack tends to be pretty expensive for this type of stuff. I figured that out a while back when I bought some resistors. I ended up buy way too many, but at a decent price.
Posted By: riverdogg Date Posted: November 25, 2012 at 3:06 AM I've decided to add two sensors to this system: the 507M Tilt Sensor and the 506T Audio Sensor. It looks like the 506T is plug and play. And the 507M looks easy as well, I just wanted to confirm the connections.
Red wire Any of the vehicle's 12V constant Orange wire H1/6: GWA Blue wire H2/12: Door trigger input Posted By: riverdogg Date Posted: November 29, 2012 at 1:45 AM Completed my first alarm/remote start install and everything works!!
Thanks for your help Kreg! |
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