Printer Friendly Forum Posts - advancedkeys problem

Good day all,

I posted before about issues with my install which consists of the following connected W2W

Viper 5902, DBALL and AK-PSB05

The issue I am having is that the AdvancedKeys has to enable the DBALL so it's negative GWR output is connected to the DBALL status input which is also connected to the Vipers GWR status.

The AdvancedKeys sends the GWR signal when in the ACC, ON (RUN) and START states however what is happening is somehow it is causing my doors to lock everytime is stops sending the GWR (if I go from ACC to ON to RUN and right when it hits ACC again that is where the doors lock) and I want to know if I can stop this somehow. The other issue is if I connect the GWR from the AdvancedKeys to the - keysense as well (per the instructions you cut the keysense wire from the vehicle and connect it to the AdvancedKeys GWR output and leave a chipless key in the ignition to unlock the steering wheel) I can no longer remote start the vehicle, something is causing the GWR to the DBALL to not recieve the ground signal.

Any ideas, should I be using diodes somewhere to prevent these 2 issues?

When using multiple GWRs or when running the GWR to the bypass and keysense, you should always diode isolate to prevent feedback from each to interfere with the other. Also, having no diode on the keysense wire will keep the DBALL active even when running with the key.

As for the locks, check your settings on both the Viper and the AK to see if ignition locking or similar is enabled.

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Ignition locking is disabled on Viper and from the vehicle.

The DBALL is doing the lock when the AdvancedKey push button stops sending the GWR signal when it is not in the ACC, ON (RUN) or START mode, it never unlocks though. It is annoying since when I turn the vehicle off the doors lock me in and I have to unlock to exit. I did find a work around by setting the Viper to Unlock with ignition, this seems to overide the lock that the DBALL is doing.

So what happens is I get in and push the button once for ACC, again for ON and again for START, when I shut off the engine it goes to STANDBY mode when the GWR is not outputing, at that point the doors lock. It also does this if I just cycle through the presses without starting and shuting off the car.

I know what diodes do, I am just not sure which wires and which way to place them. I can test and report back but need to know which wires and which way they should be (the band).

Not sure what you mean about the DBALL staying active, without a diode the way it is now with the key in (blank key no chip) and the keysense connected to the AdvancedKey brain the DBALL never becomes active and I cannot remote start the vehicle (DBALL never becomes active). Without the Keysense wire connected to the AdvancedKey brain and connected to the car only (stock) it does become active in the ACC, ON (RUN) or START mode and I can also remote start the vehicle but I get the annoying key reminder when I turn the vehicle off and open the door when exiting.

Thank you for the reply.

I also tested the lock I am experiencing by running a wire from the GWR by tapping into the wire between the Viper and DBALL GWR and when I connect it to vehicle ground it triggers the door locks.

I got my locks to not lock now when I turn off the car with the advancekeys button by leaving the factory keysense connected as well as connecting the GWR from the AK brain with a diode (band towards factory keysense wire) but now the DBALL stays on even with the turned off. Also the Viper domelight supervision stops working and I get the key warning when exiting, I can live with those if I have tobbut the DBALL staying on I think will drain my battery.

Throwing another idea out there...

What if I totally remove the GWR output from the AK to the DBALL since it is only enabling the DBALL when in the ACC, ON (START) and RUN modes since that is the reason for the locks activating and just use one of the Viper - aux outputs connected to the DBALL status (GWR) wire and set the aux output to latched and link to disarm?

This would enable the DBALL only once when the Viper is disarmed (unlocked), once Armed the DBALL would turn off. This is how I have my headrest DVDs connected. Turn on when disarmed and remain on until armed so they would turn off and disrupt the move when I turnoff the car and started it.

The issue I can for-see is that you will no longer have the immobilizer bypass for the Advanced Keys without the DB-All activated.

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Kenny
Owner / Technician
KKD Garage LLC
Albany, NY 12205

Sorry, going back to my first post.

I can remote start however the factory alarm goes off.

But the DBALL will be active the entire time the Viper is disarmed so the AK should still function.

I don't know DBALL's all that well, but I'm pretty sure they are activated (immobilizer wise) by the Ground When Running which is only active while the remote start function is activated. So as soon as the brake is applied, the GWR goes away and the module becomes inactive. So unless that GWR has a ground signal, the DBALL will not be active (as far as I know). There must be a setting in the DBALL or the remote start that tells the module to lock when the GWR input is lost because I can't think of any cars I've done where the module locked the doors when the GWR was lost...

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Kenny
Owner / Technician
KKD Garage LLC
Albany, NY 12205

Aparrently you know them well enough...

Here is exactly what is happening (please ignore my previous posts as this is the final issue, remote start works and is not setting off the factory alarm in this configuration) and my thoughts on resolving.., Please let me know what you experts suggest, am I approaching this the right way?

This is how the GWR wire is connected between all 4 devices (Viper, DBALL, AK and Vehicle - keysense.

Originally the GWR was connected only to the Viper and DBALL, I spliced the AK GWR (- keysense) wire into the existing GWR between the Viper and DBALL then I spliced another wire in the same place to feed the Vehicle - keysense wire.

Let me explain exactly what is happening with the door locks.

I unlock the car and get in the AK is in READY mode, when I do the following

1. Press the button 1 time for ACC mode (GWR output enabled) it triggers my door to unlock (even though it is unlocked already)
2. Press the button 2nd time for ON mode (GWR still enabled) there is no door lock activity
3. Press the button 3rd time for START mode (GWR still enabled) there is no door lock activity
4. Press the brake and hold button for 2 seconds, the engine shuts off (GWR disabled) and it triggers my door to lock

Seems like when the AK GWR is outputting the signal (enabled) it triggers my doors to unlock and when the A GWR stops the outputting the signal (disabled) then it triggers my doors to lock, this is because the AK stops sending the GWR output only in the READY mode.

Here lies the problem, since I want to get out of the car I have to unlock my doors manually

What I did to correct the unlock trigger from happening. Would like to figure out how to remedy the lock triggering without having to set the Viper to unlock with ignition.

Seems like placing a diode on the AK GWR (- keysense) wire that is feeding the vehicle - keysense (band facing towards AK brain) when I go from READY to ACC mode the door unlock trigger no longer happens however when shutting off the engine the lock is still triggering. Perhaps another diode on the AK GWR wire that is feeding the DBALL?

Or another solution I have not tested is to use the GWR from the AK for only the -keysense wire and to supply the ground to the DBALL by using one of the Vipers AUX - outputs and set it to latched and link it to disarm, this will enable the ground to the DBALL when the viper is Disarmed and keep it enabled until the Viper is Armed. In theory seperating the AK GWR and AK - keysense since this seems to be the issue.

Thank you and I apoprciate all your replies and suggestions.

First of all, as suggested before, you need to diode isolate all 3 of the triggers from each other. Otherwise they will backfeed into each other. Second, I am assuming you used the cut key method for bypassing the steering wheel lock? Did you isolate the key sense and accessory like it shows in the AK instruction manual? How did you connect the door locks from the AK module (or is it strictly the push button start and not the keyless module)? Does the DBALL have any settings that can be changed? If so try to find the "lock after shut-down" and turn that off. Something else to try to help determine if the Viper is causing the doors to lock or if it is the DBALL: try connecting only the AK GWR to the DBALL and temporarily disconnect the Viper GWR. See if the problem continues.

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Kenny
Owner / Technician
KKD Garage LLC
Albany, NY 12205

Also, maybe I missed it, but what vehicle is all of this installed into?

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Kenny
Owner / Technician
KKD Garage LLC
Albany, NY 12205

Installed in an 07 Acura RDX

So far I only diode isolated the keysense wire (band facing towards AK brain)and solved the unlock trigger. I am not sure how to place the other diodes and would need some assistance with that if you could help that would be greatly appreciated.

I did use the key cut method and did isolate the keysense and the accessory wire as per the AK instructions.

Strictly push button. The unlock and lock wires are connected from the Viper to DBALL and then the analog lock and unlock from the DBALL to the car as per the DBALL instructions.

All door locking and unlocking functionality from the Vehicle and Viper have been disabled, I only enabled the Viper Unlock with ignition to override the lock that is happening now due to the AK. At least that way my door unlocks when I turn off the vehicle.

I can replicate the lock/unlock issue by connecting and disconnecting a vehicle ground to the GWR wire with the way I have everything connected now.

I will try what you suggested this evening to see if I can determine if it is the Viper or DBALL causing the issue.

Thank you for the prompt reply!

Correction...

I unlock the car and get in the AK is in READY mode, when I do the following

1. Press the button 1 time for ACC mode (GWR output enabled) it triggers my door to unlock (even though it is unlocked already)
2. Press the button 2nd time for ON mode (GWR still enabled) there is no door lock activity
3. Press the button 3rd time for START mode (GWR still enabled) there is no door lock activity
4. Press the brake and hold button for 2 seconds, the engine shuts off (GWR disabled) and it triggers my door to lock

Even if I do not start the car and just press the button again to cycle to ACC the door locks.

Too add to the keysense bypassing. I had to connect it back to the vehicle. If I bypass the keysense as per AdvancedKeys instruction the factory alarm sets off every time I remote start.

I will try the diode with the factory keysense connected to see if it also stops the unlock like it did with the keysense bypassed and connected to the AK brain.

Aaaargh, another correction also The locks never unlock they are only locking when the push button hits ACC mode.

I have tried diodes on the keysense and Viper status output (band towards brain) and they do not appear to resolve any of the issues I am having.

Updated...

I unlock the car and get in the AK is in READY mode, when I do the following

1. Press the button 1 time for ACC mode (GWR output enabled) it triggers my door to lock
2. Press the button 2nd time for ON mode (GWR still enabled) there is no door lock activity
3. Press the button 3rd time for START mode (GWR still enabled) there is no door lock activity
4. Press the brake and hold button for 2 seconds, the engine shuts off (GWR disabled) there is no door lock activity

Even if I do not start the car and just press the button again to cycle to ACC the door locks.

So it appears something is signaling my doors to lock when the GWR output from the push button brain goes from no ground output to ground output.

That is the first problem

Now the second problem

If I follow AdvancedKeys instructions and bypass the keysense my remote start triggers the factory alarm.

If I leave the keysense connected to the vehicle the factory alarm is disabled (led never blinks) and I can remote start with out the factory alarm triggering.

Of course with the keysense connected like this I get the key warning and I also lose the vipers domelight supervision.

Which side of the cut keysense wire do you have the GWR off the Viper connected to? It should be on the BCM side (NOT the key side). Turn the Viper ignition locks off so we can test without wondering what that is doing. The Viper ignition locks is what is causing the doors to lock when you go to ACC. So it sounds like once you turn that off, everything should function correctly.

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Kenny
Owner / Technician
KKD Garage LLC
Albany, NY 12205

Here is exactly how the GWR wires should be connected.

Viper GWR --> diode (band towards Viper) --> DBALL
--> diode (band towards Viper) --> Keysense (BCM side)

AK GWR --> diode (band towards AK) --> DBALL
--> diode (band towards AK) --> Keysense (BCM side)

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Kenny
Owner / Technician
KKD Garage LLC
Albany, NY 12205

I depined the keysense from the factory harness and have the AK GWR to the wire.

All Viper and vehicle ignition locking has been disabled and it still locks. I only set the Viper ignition lock to unlock since it seems to overide whatever is causing the lock issue so now it unlocks instead of lock when I turn the car off with the push button. I will leave all ignition control locking/unlocking disabled for now to help troubleshooting.

I haven't tried the diodes as you suggested yet but I am confused with them still. 2 of them that you listed do not have anything in front of the --> but I am probably not reading it correctly.

Thank you for helping me out with this, it is driving me crazy.

I wasn't sure if you would get that either. Basically the Viper GWR and AK GWR each get split to the 2 "circuits" (legs) using the diodes. Regardless of whether or not they fix the issue, the diodes should be installed to prevent back feeding. Where did you get the keysense from?

I read up on one of the DBALL install manuals and there are programming options that most likely relate to your issue. There are 2 revalent settings... Ignition locks and the Smart OEM alarm. Take a look through the DBALL manual and try changing both settings to disabled and see if that works.

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Kenny
Owner / Technician
KKD Garage LLC
Albany, NY 12205

I am getting the keysense output from the AK brain as they suggested when I contacted them before the install. They said the GWR - output of the module goes to the DBALL and this wire is the same feed for the keysense to the vehicle. Honestly the module should have 2 Independent outputs if you ask me.

My DBALL has a few probable features but not those. I can send you the install guide if you would like to view it.

What firmware is it? I should be able to view it by that. The AK can have 2 GWR outputs by just diode isolating the 1 output and making 2 outputs. Connect the band side of both diodes together to the AK GWR output then connect one of diodes to the DBALL and the other to the keysense. Diode isolating the GWR output from both the AK and the Viper is the correct way that it should be connected. Connecting it any other way will eventually cause problems whether or not it is the cause of your current issue.

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Kenny
Owner / Technician
KKD Garage LLC
Albany, NY 12205

True however if the AK had a seperate output that didn't switch ground on and off depecding on button mode and supplied a constant ground regardless of button mode then I wouldn't be having the lock issue.

Firmware is HONDA4 for the 2007 Acura RDX, the latest version. It was re-flashed last week. Only thing I can think of is possibly the Trunk option being enabled is interfering due to the Trunk and Doors essentially being one in the same, the doors lock and unlock the trunk. I will disable the 2, 3 & 4 options completely which may resolve the locking issue.

The way I currently have the GWR connected is the original connection which was Viper to DBALL, I then took the GWR output from the AK and soldered into the existing connection were I originally soldered the Viper and DBALL wire, I did the same with the output for the vehicle keysense so essentially all 4 wire are splitting from the middle, kinda like ><

The thing I can't wrap my head around is the factory alarm is being set off on remote start if I do not keep the keysense connected to the vehicle (stock). Once I attempt to connect the GWR to the keysense (BCM side) remote start always sets off the factory alarm, I don't even have the option of installing it as per their instructions. Keeping it connected to the vehicle (stock) then I can remote start without triggering the alarm but I get the key warning and lose the Vipers domelight supervision.

Maybe I'm just misunderstanding you, but a good place for "output that didn't switch ground on and off depending on buttong mode and supplied a constant ground regardless of button mode" would be the chassis ground... which would leave the module activated at all times. Going by your latest test, the GWR is functioning exactly as it should.. it is providing a ground signal whenever the unit is is ACC, IGN, or START/RUN mode... which is exactly what it should be. You don't want it to show ground when turned off.

As I said before, you can't just solder the 4 wires together and expect them not to back feed into each other. You HAVE to use diodes wired up like I posted before... no choice about it. Where did you depin the wire from? It sounds like you are connecting the keysense to the wrong side. Try cutting the wire instead of depinning (can always be soldered back together) and see what side continues showing ground with the key in the ignition. Then connect both DIODE ISOLATED GWR outputs (1 from AK, 1 from Viper) to the wire that does NOT show ground with the key in the ignition.

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Kenny
Owner / Technician
KKD Garage LLC
Albany, NY 12205

I will be working on the diodes soon. Yes the GWR from the AK is working as it should just messing with my lock which the diodes may fixso I will try.

the connector which is at the ignition that houses the keysense wire, that is where I removed the wire and connected the AK GWR to the wire I removed, It can't be the key side. It does do what it is suppose to in the off position I do not get the key warning and my Viper domelight supervision works however if I connect it like this then the remote start sets off my factory alarm although this could also be diode related as I notice the DBALL does not attempt to unlock and lock my doors prior to remote start like it did before the A was installed.

I will update once I have a chance to place the diodes exactly as you suggested.

Thanks again for taking the time to help.

I would also do as I suggested with the keysense. De-pinning isn't the best method anyways because the pin can become damaged and never re-pinned if you ever decided to put it back to factory. Where-as a simple cut wire can always be soldered back together.

Looking at the wire info for that car, the keysense wire should be in the harness connecting to the immobilizer control unit. Therefore, that unit MAY be the 'BCM side' that needs to see the keysense... not what is actually 'producing' the keysense signal.

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Kenny
Owner / Technician
KKD Garage LLC
Albany, NY 12205

With 2, 3 & 4 set to No option in the DBALL programming the locks behave differently. Now the locks unlock and lock when the push button gets to ACC mode and every time it cycles through to ACC mode so the only difference is that it is now unlocking and locking instead of just locking.

It does this only when I have the keysense left as stock. If I remove the keysense wire and attach to AK GWR then it only locks just like before.

I am still a little confused about the diodes. If I have the wiring as described before, all connected in the middle so the wiring would be similiar to an X with one device at each corner, essentially coming out of the Viper and then it branches off to the DBALL, AK and Keysense wire (BCM side) is that proper? something tells me that it's not since you advised to have the diodes act as a branch from the Viper and the AK.

Sorry my brain has taken a huge toll with this AdvancedKey. I am regretting putting this in and beyond frustrated and am just about to go back to using my key. I followed what AdvancedKey has advised to do in regards to the Keysense and GWR and their manual does not specify the use of diodes, even asking them multiple times about diodes they have not told me to use them on any wire. As far as I am aware and I could be wrong but wouldn't the Viper, DBALL & AK have diodes in the units on these inputs and outputs? I would rather install 15 remote start/bypass combos then 1 of these modules.

I will try the diodes and then I have no choice but to bin the AdvancedKey module. I have literally had my car apart for 2 months now and have over 60 hours in just trying to get this module to work without affecting a critical part of the way the rest of the system operates. The rest of my system was working 100% prior to this and only took 4 hours to install with not 1 issue.

Thanks again for all your help, I will try the diodes but honestly I just don't think this AdvancedKey module is worth the headache, frustration and time involved.

Where would the immobilizer control unit be? I am getting the wire from the steering column connector, just under where the ignition cylinder is. Green connector, pink wire with silver band.

Here is what happens when I remove that wire and connect to the AK, it appears to work as normal. I press the button in ACC mode and the dash lights up with the welcome, I switch to ON mode and it stays on, when I switch to standby it is off and I can open the door with no key warning and the Viper domelight supervision also works... However here is the one problem that stops it from being 100%... When I remote start the car the factory alarm goes nuts, what I notice is the Viper is not unlocking and locking the vehicle anymore to bypass the factory alarm. That is what I need to resolve.

The other issue is the door locking everytime I cycle to ACC, I believe both these issues are related (they are both door locks)

If I put the keysense back to stock then I can remote start fine however the lock when cycled to ACC is still there.

Think I understand the diode and wiring now, does this make sense?

X with 1 device at each corner.

Viper connected with diode placed inline (band facing towards Viper)
DBALL connected with diode placed inline (band facing away from DBALL)
AK connected with diode placed inline (band facing towards AK)
Keysense with diode placed inline (band facing away from Keysense)

ground will not flow through the diodes that are placed inline with band towards the device, essentially this allows the outputs to only be an output and inputs to only be an input. No ground being fed where it is shouldn't be fed.

The diode can be placed between the device and where the wire branches, correct? Would something like this work?

\ /
D D
\/
/\
D D
/ \

Wire it just like this for both the Viper and the AK GWR wires.

posted_image

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Kenny
Owner / Technician
KKD Garage LLC
Albany, NY 12205

I know you said exactly like you showed in the pic and I reviewed it and it seems I can also connect like below.

posted_image

This is already how it is connected and I just thought it would be easier since I can access and solder the diodes all in the same location, where I originally soldered all the wires together. I believe this will also provide the same outcome. Am I correct in thinking this?

I just want to run it by you before so diagnosing the problem is not compromised.

Thank you!

In theory that should work, but the double diodes may cause issues. It isn't hard to just cut some wires and solder it exactly how I posted to make sure it will be right. It will be a lot harder to have to go back and re-do it if that method doesn't work...

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Kenny
Owner / Technician
KKD Garage LLC
Albany, NY 12205

Gotcha, I will wire it as you suggested.

Hang on, I am not certain on one thing...

Are we using 2 diodes in total or 4? Are the AK and Viper still sharing a ground like below without a diode between them.

posted_image

Sorry I am a newbie when it comes to diodes.

I think I got it now...

4 diodes in total

AK and Viper are using their own GWR outputs and they are independent of another. My pic above would cause interference between the Viper and AK since the 2 GWR outputs are connected.

Exactly. Each GWR (AK and Viper) have to have 2 diodes so they don't back-feed into each other. Now keep in mind, this still may not fix your current issue, but at the very least it will help prevent future issues. When wires can back-feed into each other, it has a tendency to damage the components.

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Kenny
Owner / Technician
KKD Garage LLC
Albany, NY 12205

Understood. If not then back to the drawing board.

Just odd that other Acura owners as well as other make and models have the same Viper and bypass module and have not heard of any issues like I am experiencing. This is from online reviews of course.

AdvancedKeys sent me this, I haven't tried it yet but does this look like it would resolve my issue with the door locking at ACC mode as well as my remote start not setting off the factory alarm. Remember my alarm was only being triggered when I removed the keysense wire from the vehicle connector and connected it to the GWR from the AK brain. What do you think?

posted_image

Apparently this is required for my RDX and I just found another Acura owner who installed it this way and is not having the issues I am having, this is what he had to say about the relay for the keysense...

"Now that you have made the modded key to bypass the steering-wheel lock we still need to bypass the keysense that our cars have.

This keysense will tell the car that there is still a key present in the ignition and prevent it from locking the doors.

In other words if you leave the modded key in the ignition and walk a way from the car it won’t lock the doors."

That might work as a work around, but I still think you are connecting to the wrong side of the keysense wire which is causing your issue. This will negate that by simply re-connecting the keysense through the relay rather than providing an external ground to the keysense. Did you ever re-pin, cut, and test that keysense wire?

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Kenny
Owner / Technician
KKD Garage LLC
Albany, NY 12205

So I should connect the AK GWR to the side that is on the ignition connector to test.

The wire from the vehicle goes into the connector that is connected to the steering column which is the wire I am using. At that point it terminates at the steering column. I can test the other side and report back.

Connecting to the other side provides a constant ground. Doors do not lock or unlock when cycling the button presses however the factory alarm is triggered and the DBALL does not turn off when the car is off. All the symptoms a constant ground. I definitely as far as I am concerned had the correct side before.

I typed out an entire report on that worked and what didn't connected 3 different ways and for some reason it did not update the site.

Aaaargh

No, before making any connections you should just test with a meter. The keysense wire should show ground when a key is inserted into the cylinder (not turned). Then it should lose that ground when you remove the key. Use the meter to determine which side is showing ground with the key in the cylinder... that will be the key side. The other side is where you want the connection to go.

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Kenny
Owner / Technician
KKD Garage LLC
Albany, NY 12205

It appears as if the relay will resolve the issue. With the Keysense only being activated when the push start module is in the ON/Start/Run modes the DBALL will be activated to allow the AK to start the car.

Question I have here is does the AK GWR still need to be connected to the vehicle Keysense wire AND DBALL GWR? or just have the Keysense supply the ground to the DBALL, seems like they will be performing the same function.

When the car is off the Keysense is disconnected, the DBALL will be powered off, the key warning will not display, the DBALL will Disarm and Re-arm on remote start and the Viper domelight supervision works.

This has been tested by severing the factory keysense.

Only thing I don't know if it will resolve the locking issue everytime the AK ACC mode is cycled through, something tells me it will.

Meant to say something tell me it won't resolve the lock issue.

The key was never removed from the cylinder when testing, you are correct the ground is only there when the key is inserted.

I had already tested the wire, with the key in the ignition and the door open... If I connect vehicle ground to the wire I removed from the connector it triggers the key warning/welcome display in the vehicle.

From what I recall connecting vehicle ground to the connector pin (keyside) it did nothing.

I visited your website, lot's of sport bikes on your lot. Do you ride?

Those are all friends bikes.. most of which I've done work on. My bike is the black Yamaha Stryker.

I must have missed where you had already tested the keysense.. I wanted to check that first because if I recall, the connector where you find the keysense is going into an actual module. One some cars, the keysense in an input to that module instead of an output. Go ahead and try wiring in the relay, it's possible that the ground from the AK is not strong enough to trigger the keysense and therefore the relay will just connect the factory wiring. If you connect the relay, then the AK GWR will only have to be connected to the DBALL.

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Kenny
Owner / Technician
KKD Garage LLC
Albany, NY 12205

Out of curiosity, how did you find my website?

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Kenny
Owner / Technician
KKD Garage LLC
Albany, NY 12205

Dude...

KKD Garage LLC

Got myself a 2002 CBR 929RR (Fireblade).

With the relay and removing the AK GWR output to Keysense removed how would I diode isolate the AK and Viper? same way just eliminate the wire and diode that was going to the - keysense from the AK?

Yes. still use the diode between the AK and the DBALL. That will isolate the AK GWR from the Viper GWR.

I was trying to get an idea what search engines the site showed up on. I just made the site a few weeks ago... lol.

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Kenny
Owner / Technician
KKD Garage LLC
Albany, NY 12205

Google, top of hit list.

Not too shabby. lol...thanks.

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Kenny
Owner / Technician
KKD Garage LLC
Albany, NY 12205

Thanks for all your help. I will place the diodes and test and move on to the relay if the diodes don't resolve the issue.

Either way I will report back.

Sounds good. If it doesn't solve the lock issue, then it is most likely something internal to the DBALL and your only option may be to either live with it or replace the bypass with a different module.

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Kenny
Owner / Technician
KKD Garage LLC
Albany, NY 12205

was thinking the same thing with trying another bypass, I did have an ifortin evo-all but no matter if I chose hood pin normally opened or closed in the Viper it would never detect if my hood was open so I moved to the DBALL.

Not sure what effect if any that the diodes will have but it is a good idea to have them in place. The relay workaround will definitely work for the key warning but I can also just leave the keysense disconnected, I mean what will I gain by having the keysense connected when the ignition is on? right now everything seems to be working right except for the door locking when cycling to ACC mode.

Odd, I was testing with a diode on the vipers GWR wire (in the end nothing changed, removed the diode) went to remote start and it appears I lost my Tach and had to switch to voltage tach mode to remote start the car.

When I try to learn the tach now the Viper is not programming (control center LED never lights solid during learning). Tested the wires and out from the DBALL I am getting around 6 volts at idle however the Viper input is only seeing .20 to .40 at idle.

That's very odd. Is there anything inline (diode, etc) on the tach wire from the DBALL to the Viper. I would try hardwiring the tach since almost every DBALL I've done provided a very poor tach signal.

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Kenny
Owner / Technician
KKD Garage LLC
Albany, NY 12205

Nope nothing in between, only thing I did was move the brain around a bit and messed with the Diode on the GWR input just for testing.

I did reseat the connectors to see if that resolves the issue but no luck. I have had no previous Tach issues since the original install and the AK brain is also connected to the DBALL for tach and it is getting the signal.

I will have to check the tach wire between the Viper and DBALL but it is getting something, just not what the voltage should be at.

Did you see my previous message about the keysense? Why would it be needed when the vehicle is running, what benefit would it be to have it connected over leaving it disconnected from the vehicle key switch my my current AK install?

Most vehicles wouldn't matter (other than dome light functioning with keysense) but I would still connect it to be safe. Just wire up the relay like they show.

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Kenny
Owner / Technician
KKD Garage LLC
Albany, NY 12205

Seems like the factory domelights are working as they should with the keysense severed, must be getting it from the ignition status. I think the keysense in my RDX is just for the key warning from what I am seeing.

I just finished up my advanced keys install on my 04 STi last night. I can't remember if we covered this, but the AK has an ignition lock setting that you may need to turn off. Pull the fuse of the AK unit and then hold the brake in while re-inserting the fuse. The horn should honk twice if the ignition locks are disabled or once if they are enabled. Maybe give that a try? I had no issues with wiring my keysense exactly as they show in the install manual...

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Kenny
Owner / Technician
KKD Garage LLC
Albany, NY 12205

You got the complete kit with passive entry right?

I got just the push button module, I am sure Brian would have told me about that feature if it applied to just the push button module as well. No mention of it in the manual either but I did see it in the complete kit manual. I can try, it won't hurt. I will let you know tomorrow evening if it does work.

I am glad it works fine for you. It just doesn't like my RDX for some reason.

What bypass and alarm/rs combo are you running?

Another odd thing I have noticed is sometimes when the module is enabled if I step on the brake the button doesn't flash and remains solid. If I unlock the doors or lock them or I think if I open and close the door as well then the module will start to flash when I step on the brake.

I haven't messaged Brian from AK again for support, it seems my emails are being ignored, I haven't received a response for a week now and left a few emails.

I have the full AK kit and the Compustar CM6000 Alarm / Remote start combo. What are you using to activate the start enable if you aren't using the keyless entry module? The ignition locks is a part of the keyless entry module.

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Kenny
Owner / Technician
KKD Garage LLC
Albany, NY 12205

I am using one of the - aux outputs of the viper set to output when disarmed (latched and linked to disarm).

When I disarm the output is active, when I arm the output is not active. Same way I connected to my headrest DVD players only I also used a relay to convert switch the - to a + output.

I also have the PKE from DEI which auto unlocks when I am within range and locks when I am out of range. That was part of the original install which I mentioned previously in the thread.

Ahhh gotcha. I'm at a loss for what is causing the locking issues. Any luck with the relay?

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Kenny
Owner / Technician
KKD Garage LLC
Albany, NY 12205

No garage and was planning to tackle it today, we finally have a day that is over 2C but its raining, Argh.

I have all the wiring loomed and taped and have to be outside the car with the door open to get underneath.

I know what is causing the locking. Its overtime the darn AK sends out the - output and stops sending the output to enable and disable the bypass. I was thinking if the diodes don't work to try another - aux output of the viper to enable through bypass on disarm and disable it on arm like I have the DVD's connected. That way they bypass doesn't get enabled and disabled depending on the AK button status.

Tried to diodes, same thing happens.

Tried the aux out from Viper to enable the bypass on disarm and it messes with the lock as well, so now when I disarm the Viper the locks unlock and then lock once the aux output kicks in. I would have to unlock again to get in the car.

Just like I determined already, when the DBALL receives a ground on the status input it locks the doors, and when it looses the ground it unlocks the doors. No way around it except to leave it how it was and set the Viper to ign controlled locking set to unlock.

Or change out to a different bypass module... but you could run into the same thing.

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Kenny
Owner / Technician
KKD Garage LLC
Albany, NY 12205

True. Haven't tried the relay yet, that may do it and will try it in the next few days.

From the sounds of it, the DBALL is set to lock after shutdown and must use the GWR wire to control it.. one would think this would be a programmable option, but from what I can tell it's not. If you decide to give another bypass a try, try the idatalink bypass.

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Kenny
Owner / Technician
KKD Garage LLC
Albany, NY 12205

I tried the Fortin EVO-ALL prior to the DB-ALL and that just was not happening with my hood. Didn't matter what I tried it was always detecting my hood as being closed, I could have ran the hood pin switch but that should have been taken care of by the EVO-ALL, they DB-ALL had no issues.

Maybe next summer I will redo with an idatalink but I am done with this install for now and will use it the way it is. I will just let it do what it is doing, at least I can still use it.

I tried mimicking what the relay would do and it doesn't resolve anything except the key warning, in the end no different than just leaving the keysense wire disconnected.

I think in the end I will sell the AK seeing how emails are going unanswered and go with one of the other push button solutions. I have never had to use any support in the past with practically anything I have installed or owned. AK was prompt and excellent at answering question emails post sale and was above average on after sale support in the beginning and then emails would take 2-3 days for a response and just went down from there to the point of being ignored completely.

That's very odd about the emails. Every single one of my emails to the email on their site has been responded to within a day... 2 at most. I've only had my AK system a few days but I am absolutely loving it so far. It is doing absolutely everything it says it should and is working great. The install instructions I received with mine were very detailed and once I got into it, I had no need for any support... but I had many many questions before getting the unit and a couple prior to installation and they were great with contacting me back quickly.

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Kenny
Owner / Technician
KKD Garage LLC
Albany, NY 12205

I am glad yours is working exactly as it should. Unfortunately I have had my share of questions and issues and they were prompt and I was impressed with their customer service especially in the begining after that they start getting slower to respond until you are just emailing them for nothing so for me it went from the best customer service I have ever experienced to the worst. Started at 10 stars and gradually went down to a big 0. I bet if I emailed them under a different email address today requesting product info I would get a prompt reply.

These are the issues and some appear to be resolvable (is that even a word?)

1. The locking I think it is just the nature of the beast when paired with the DBALL and even then it could be vehicle (firmware specific) so I can't blame the AK for that. I have the Viper set to Unlock with ignition so atleast my door unlocks when I shut the car off.

2. Stepping on the brake is not always detected by the AK, it is very intermittent. When the brake isn't detected by the AK unlocking/locking the doors or even closing/opening the doors then stepping on the brake again seems to activate the AK. This could also be related to the DBALL since that is where I am getting the signal from. I am certain direct to the brake switch would resolve this.

3. Keysense wire looks like it can just be removed from the stock wiring, at least in my vehicle, everything seems to function correctly this way and no need to connect to the AK either (it does say optional in the install guide)

The Viper is also on this wire and when testing the brake with the Viper it always knows when I am on the brake or off.