2000 prelude r/s manual transmission

Hey Guys,

Going to be installing a Compustar cm6200 and idatalink tb bypass into a 2000 Honda Prelude with a manual transmission on the weekend.

I've done many remote starts, but this will be the first with a manual transmission.

I want to do this 100% properly and i know that the CM6200 is designed for manual transmissions, i just wanted to get some tips from the pro's who have done it many times before.

In addition to the usual install, what else do i need to do for a manual transmission?

I know i need to hook up the door triggers, ebrake wires, and neutral saftey switch.

Are there other wires that im missing. 

I've done some research and seen people say that you need to bypass the clutch, or hook up the ignition wire to a wire on the clutch, instead of the main harness.  I've also seen people say you do not need to bypass the clutch.

If you could clarify that up for me that would be great.

Don't mean to beat a dead horse here and ask something that has been asked before, but this is my first time doing a manual and i want to make sure it's done properly and safely.

jsolts wrote:

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I've done some research and seen people say that you need to bypass the clutch, or hook up the ignition wire to a wire on the clutch, instead of the main harness.  I've also seen people say you do not need to bypass the clutch.

If you could clarify that up for me that would be great.

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Clutch bypass is required on manual trans vehicles that the main starter wire does not go through the clutch. Otherwise the H3 VIOLET starter wire can be hooked up after the clutch for remote start. For Alarm/Remote start you would cut the starter wire after the clutch and hook the H3 Green to the clutch side and the Violet to the starter side.

I don't have the vehicle yet and want to so all my prep in advance.


How do I know if the main starter wire goes thru the clutch?

lurch228 wrote:

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[QUOTE=jsolts]

Clutch bypass is required on manual trans vehicles that the main starter wire does not go through the clutch. Otherwise the H3 VIOLET starter wire can be hooked up after the clutch for remote start. For Alarm/Remote start you would cut the starter wire after the clutch and hook the H3 Green to the clutch side and the Violet to the starter side.

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Lurch - I think you may have thought i was using a Viper Starter, Their harnesses are labelled H1,H2,H3 etc.

I am using a compustar cm6200. They are labelled CM1, CM2, CM3.

Either way, did a bit more looking today and from what i can gather, there is no neutral saftey switch on on either the Vehicle or the R/S.

This R/S unit has a "reservation mode" and is designed for manual transmission. 
It appears all i need to do in addition to the regular install is hook up the door triggers, e-brake inputs, and bypass the clutch.

Same still applies to hooking the starter output wire after the clutch if the starter wire goes through it. Otherwise it's some kind of interlock with activates a relay. and then you will need to bypass the clutch to close the circuit in most cases. But always test first for function.

FInally got the prelude into the shop on saturday and have a couple issues i need some help with.

First Issue -

All the info i can find online says that the preludes have 2 clutch switches, an upper and a lower, and that the clutch should have a BLACK/ blue wire.

Neither switch has a BLACK/ blue wire.

What should the correct wire test when i press in the clutch?

If i take the lower clutch switch and jumper the 2 wires i can start the vehicle without the clutch being pressed in.
Can i take a relay, tap into both lower clutch wires, run 12v to the relay, and use the GWR wire as the ground on the relay and correctly bypass the clutch for starting purposes?

Second issue -

The RS (compustar cm6200 with idatalink blade TB bypass) is installed into the vehicle.

As this is a manual transmission, Reservation mode is required.

When the vehicle is running, i press the foot brake, raise the handbrake, then remove the keys from ignition ---- Vehicle stays running.
When i exit the vehicle and close the door, the engine will shut off, lock the doors, and the remote will indicate that reservation mode is set.

The problem is that when i try to remote start the vehicle, it will go thru the motions like it is going to start, but will not crank. Just stops. Then it will try 2 more times before it times out.

I thought this might be due to the clutch bypass, but i tried it with the Clutch jumpered, and then tried it with me sitting in the vehicle and manually pressing the clutch to the floor.

Still will not start.

What did i miss?

Is the security light flashing when you are trying to remote start it?

Try holding the key next to the ignition switch without inserting it and try remote starting. If it remote starts, the bypass module is either not programmed correctly or is not getting the proper ground when running signal from the Compustar.

Since you were able to put it into reservation mode, it is reading a good tach signal. Since it stays running before you exit the vehicle sounds like you have the ignition wiring correct. It's either an immobilizer issue or clutch bypass issue. Possibly a loose or bad starter wire connection.

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Yes you can use a relay to connect the 2 wires of the clutch switch. The correct clutch switch will be the one that is activated with the clutch all the way at the floor. The other one is used to deactivate cruise control. It sounds to me like you have a clutch bypass issue. Put the ebrake on, take your foot off the brake, remove the key, open and close the door but stay in the car. Push the clutch pedal in without any jumper or anything attached to the clutch wires and try to remote start it. If it starts then you have a clutch bypass issue. If not then you either have an immobilizer bypass issue or an incorrect starter wire. Did you test the starter wire before making the connection?

Also, did the TB go through the full programming exactly as the directions show?

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Kenny
Owner / Technician
KKD Garage LLC
Albany, NY 12205

Thanks for the advice guys. Round 2 with this vehicle begins on sunday.

I did test the starter wire prior to connecting it, and you cant possible screw the TB programming up.

Insert key,
Turn key to on
Wait for light to blink green.
Turn Key Off

Programming Complete

How to i properly test for the correct clutch wire?

Should i have 1 lead of my DMM to 12v and the other to the clutch wire im testing?
Once i press the clutch, Am i correct in thinking i should get a 12v signal on my DMM as this wire should now have ground due to the clutch being pushed in?

I do not want to possibly send 12v down a line and blow something by doing something incorrectly.

jsolts wrote:

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Thanks for the advice guys. Round 2 with this vehicle begins on sunday.

I did test the starter wire prior to connecting it, and you cant possible screw the TB programming up.

Insert key,
Turn key to on
Wait for light to blink green.
Turn Key Off

Programming Complete

How to i properly test for the correct clutch wire?

Should i have 1 lead of my DMM to 12v and the other to the clutch wire im testing?
Once i press the clutch, Am i correct in thinking i should get a 12v signal on my DMM as this wire should now have ground due to the clutch being pushed in?

I do not want to possibly send 12v down a line and blow something by doing something incorrectly.

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The safest thing to test for first is +12v as this will help find any positive wires at the clutch by having the DMM connected to ground, and then probe for the +12v at the switch with the ignition on and then turned to start as some clutch wires won't have any voltage until you turn the key too start and some will with ignition. Once you find the +12v wire if only one then test for the out side with the clutch pressed on the other side, if no +12v at the clutch then check for the ground, and once you think you have found the wires use continutity to verify the wires when the clutch is pressed. A DMM can't send enough voltage, amps, or current to harm anything.

Well turns out I did connect the starter wire to the wrong wire.

Tech sheets said BLACK/ White, I connected it to WHITE/ black.

Connected to correct wire and worked first try.


Another troublesome issue, got a call from my friend and he says that when he put it in to reservation mode, and starts it within a few minutes it will start no problem. However, if he waits more than 20 mins and tries to start it will crank and fail 3 times, then it gives error 8 (no tach sensing)

If it had no tach, it wouldn't have gone into reservation mode.


Is there some system here that is falling asleep?

Depending on the vehicle model and type. May need to pulse the "disarm with no unlock wire" to wake the system up. And if that dosen't work then unlock with lock on start will need to be setup. Or a keysense will need to be wired when R/S is active.

Disarm No Unlock blue - in drivers door

I'm with you on the first 2 options.


How do I run a key sense?

I would try the disarm with no unlock first then the keysense.


None of the wiring lists except audioovox [Key Sense BLUE/WHITE (-) STEERING COLUMN HARNESS] have a keysense listed so you would have to test with the key the wires at the switch to verify the keysense wire and what the polarity is.

Here is the Audiovox wiring list for reference as they can be differenrt than the other lists you can find.

#2102: 2000 HONDA PRELUDE 2DR COUPE WITH 2.2L ENGINE AND AMPLIFIED AUDIO SYSTEM

Security        
WIRE COLOR POLARITY LOCATION
Battery WHITE (+) IGNITION SWITCH HARNESS
Ignition 1 BLACK / YELLOW (+) IGNITION SWITCH HARNESS
Starter 1 BLACK/ RED (+) IGNITION SWITCH HARNESS
All Door Trigger BLACK/ WHITE (-) FACTORY ALARM CONNECTOR ABOVE PEDALS
Trunk Trigger ORANGE / SIL DOT. (-) DRIVERS KICK PANEL
Parking Lights RED / BLACK (+) EMPTY SLOT FUSE BOX OR SEE NOTE
Convenience       
WIRE COLOR POLARITY LOCATION
Headlights-Lo BLUE/RED (-) 8 PIN BLU CONN BEHIND FUSE BOX
Wipers-Lo BLUE / YELLOW (-) AT SWITCH
Remote Start
WIRE COLOR POLARITY LOCATION
Battery WHITE (+) IGNITION SWITCH HARNESS
Ignition 1 BLACK / YELLOW (+) IGNITION SWITCH HARNESS
Ignition 2 WHITE/ BLACK (+) IGNITION SWITCH HARNESS
Accessory 1 YELLOW (+) IGNITION SWITCH HARNESS
Starter 1 BLACK/ RED (+) IGNITION SWITCH HARNESS
Anti-Theft Type RF ACTIVATED SYS.
Anti-Theft Descript TRANSPONDER
Key Sense BLUE/WHITE (-) STEERING COLUMN HARNESS
Neutral Safety BLUE/WHITE (-) GEAR SELECT SWITCH
Tachometer BLUE (-) PASS STRUT TOWER 2 PIN PLUG
Speed Sense BLUE/WHITE (AC) AT ECM
   ECM IS LOCATED BELOW FRONT PASSENGER FOOTREST
Parking Lights RED / BLACK (+) EMPTY SLOT FUSE BOX OR SEE NOTE
Brake Lights WHITE/ BLACK (+) OR GRN/WHT SWITCH AT BRAKE PEDAL
Reverse Lights GREEN/ BLACK \ (+) RELAY ABOVE FUSE BOX
Horn BLUE/RED (-) STEERING COLUMN HARNESS
Modules       
WIRE LOCATION      
Module 1 ABS - LOCATED IN PASSENGER KICK PANEL
Module 2 ECM - LOCATED IN FRONT OF PASSENGER FOOT PANEL.
Doorlocks/Windows       
WIRE COLOR POLARITY LOCATION
Power Unlock BLUE/ORANGE (-) FACTORY ALARM CONNECTOR ABOVE PEDALS
PowerLock BLACK/ WHITE (-) FACTORY ALARM CONNECTOR ABOVE PEDALS
Driver Mtr Unlock LIGHT GREEN/ RED (+) DRIVERS DOOR BOOT
Driver Mtr Lock WHITE/ RED (+) DRIVERS DOOR BOOT
Pas Mtr Unlock LIGHT GREEN/ RED
LF Window Up LF:RED / BLUE
RF Window Up RF:BLUE / YELLOW IN DRIVERS DOOR ONLY
LR Window Up LF:RED / WHITE
RR Window Up RF:BLUE

If the Audiovox wiring list is correct, You need to use a relay to mimic the key being in the ignition by grounding the keysense wire when the R/S is active.