Printer Friendly Forum Posts - ads aldl n15 en not programming

I installed an idatalink bypass (ADS-AL(DL)-N15-EN) on a 08 Altima A/T 4 door with PTS. For some reason I can't program it past the step where you select D2D versus hardwired mode.

It's wired to an AutoStart AS-2381FM (see link for manual: https://engines911.com/asdocs/2W_FM_LED_A_M_HD_2381_qg_en_h60s60_110725.pdf)

ADS manual: https://www.idatalink.com/product/product/product_id/1

I am able to select hardwire mode. Then insert the key into the keyport, push the start button twice. According to the instructions the led has to light up solid for two seconds, after which the start button has to be pressed once more. For some reason I can't get the led to light up for the specified two seconds. By the bypass is programmed for my car.

I checked all the wires, below are the results:

Right Side

Immo. Data Vehicle Side - 12V constant

Immo. Data Connector Side - 12V constant

Door Status - 12V constant

Trunk Status - oops forgot

Keysense - 10V when key is inserted

CanH - 2V constant

CanL - 2V constant

PTS - 12V constant

RAP - 10.7V when door closed

Immobilizer Clock - 10V constant

Ignition - 12V in ign. ON

Ground - don't know how to check

Brake Status - 2V constant

Immobilizer Data - 12V constant

Left Side

GWR - 4.3V

Ground - don't know how to check

12V - 12V constant

Lock - 4V

Unlock - 4V

Trunk - 4V

Starter 2 - 0V

E-Brake - not used

Tach - didn't check

Additional info: I used 1N4001 diodes for all negative outputs.

Accessories at R/S - 12V in ACC.

Crank to Brake switch - 12V when activated

Disarm - 4V

Arm - 4V to 0V when activated

Also, there is an existing topic about the install. Search for 08 altima, autostart as 2381tw fm

What could be the problem?

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"Good judgment comes from experience. Experience comes from poor judgment."
-unknown

Sorry, some of these will be dumb questions. Don't want to overlook or assume anything.
(Some might not even be questions, but rather clarifying statements.)

1. The ADS AL CA is flashed with the ADS-AL(DL)-NI5 firmware, guaranteed.
2. You have followed the ADS #9620 Install guide & the Type 1 install diagram exactly as shown
      using the W2W method. This makes hardwired connections for all indicated, mandatory
      connections necessary for your R/S system. Additionally, you adhered to this note on the
     Type 1 diagram : Warning :
    DO NOT CONNECT ANY OTHER
    ACCESSORY, IGNITION OR START WIRE
   FROM THE REMOTE STARTER TO THE VEHICLE
3. All of your connections are soldered and properly insulated.
4. The 1N4001 diode shown on the R/S Ignition Output has the band towards the R/S.
5. You need to have two separate (+) Starter outputs from the R/S for the connections shown in the
    Type 1 diagram. ( You can't just use the R/S's Starter1 output and connect it to both locations shown.)
    You can/did set the 5th Relay via jumper to Starter2 and use it.
6. You only have one factory FOB near the vehicle during ADS bypass programming.
7. Can you list the other places/wires you installed 1N4001 diodes? Don't think I'd put diodes on the CAN wires...

If all of that looks good, have you tried a Factory Reset on the bypass, followed by the Installation Mode
selection ( Standard / W2W two blinks ) and lock-in, then continue on with actual vehicle programming?

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Soldering is fun!

Wow you are quick.

1. Just to be sure I had it re-flashed specifically for my car.
2. Yes, I did everything hardwired as per guide. Regarding the warning, I did connect orange Accessories from R/S to the car. How else is the heat or A/C controlled?
3.Everything is soldered and insulated with shrink tube or tape.
4. The band faces R/S. But the diode is type 1N4007. That's what seller included with the bypass.
5. Starter 1 connects to Brake switch. 5th relay connects to Starter 2 at bypass with R/S jumper set to Starter 2.
6. Only one FOB in the vehicle. Plugged into keyport.
7. All negative outputs be it R/S or bypass have a 1N4001 diode(band facing start side of output. For example: Trunk (-) output at R/S has band facing R/S or PTS (-) output at bypass has band facing bypass.\
All of these have diodes:
Disarm output, Arm output, Trunk output, Unlock and Lock outputs, Door Status output, Trunk Status output, PTS output and RAP output. I think I used a diode on GWR as well. Can't remember. Would have to check.
I reset the bypass multiple times. Get stuck at the point where I have to press the start button twice and wait for the led to light up solid. Waited for a few minutes. Nothing.

Thanks for your help kreg

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"Good judgment comes from experience. Experience comes from poor judgment."
-unknown

Just for grins, temporarily remove the diode on the ADS ORANGE / Black PTS output to vehicle PTS connector ( Keysense wire, too ).

Then do another Factory reset, set Install Mode and vehicle program.

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Soldering is fun!

The bypass works now! Used a wire to bypass the diode, grinned like crazy and was able to program the bypass at the first try.
Does that mean I need to remove the diode permanently?

Something that puzzles me: I can't program the R/S without using a jumper from the brake switch to R/S. For some reason the R/S doesn't get a signal from the bypass when I activate the brake.

Other issues: can't get the remote to pop the trunk, no matter which option I choose under Function 4 - Aux 3/Trunk.
When I try to start using the remote, lights come on solid for a second and then flash six times. At the same time when the flashing starts, driver side window rolls down a tiny bit.
Very interesting starting sequence.

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"Good judgment comes from experience. Experience comes from poor judgment."
-unknown

While it's marked "output", I think some of the wires might also be monitored by the ADS module, too. In this
case the ADS AL CA was watching the PTS button to kick off it's programming sequence and your extra added
diode blocked this. While the Altima Pictorial with the Fortin bypass used diodes on all it's BCM connections,
your install with the ADS bypass module probably doesn't need any diodes other than the one shown. Think I
would follow the Type 1 install guide exactly as displayed ( no extra diodes ).

The only connection I see from the R/S to the Brake is the one wire from the R/S's Starter1 ( thick wire ) to the
vehicles Brake Pedal wire. Don't see the brake pedal being used / depressed during ADS module programming.
That wire is an output only from the R/S and used to make the vehicle think someone is in the vehicle and pressing
on the Brake Pedal to enable an engine start-up. The R/S gets it's Brake input signal from the ADS bypass
module and that would only happen after the module was successfully programmed to the vehicle and only if the
vehicles Ignition was ON.

You can troubleshoot the trunk pop problem by disconnecting the ADS RED / WhiteTrunk Release Input wire from
the R/S and using a jumper wire to briefly apply a chassis ground to it ( ADS RED / White wire ). After the ADS is
properly programmed, that will pop the trunk. Then use the DMM to figure which R/S wire gives a (-) pulse when
the trunk release button is pressed ( should be the Blue wire at Pin 1 of the 12 Pin connector ). Think it's a R/S
programming issue. Mode 3, Function 4 should be either Opt 1 or 3, not the Default Opt 2.

Looks like the six flashes of the Parking Lights during a remote start attempt means the R/S is seeing a Tach
signal before it sees the Ignition wire. The R/S's thick Ignition Output wire is another wire that is also an input
wire at times and monitored by the R/S. The diode is important and should be checked for proper orientation.
If it does have the band towards the R/S, then try replacing it with another diode.

Re - The drivers window coming down. Not sure on this one. Might verify that the R/S Mode 1, Option 4 programming
is set properly.

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Soldering is fun!

I removed all unneccessary diodes and replaced the one at ignition. Haven't had time to troubleshoot the trunk problem yet. Will do tonight.

Back to the six flashes (early tach signal). According to ADS I don't to hook up the tach wire to a coil. Does that apply to w2w as well?

Also, with ign. ON, when the brake switch is activated, the bypass sends only +/-8V to R/S. Is that enough?

Thanks

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"Good judgment comes from experience. Experience comes from poor judgment."
-unknown

The trunk should work OK using the AutoStarts' Blue wire noted above. Just program the AutoStart so the Blue wire is a
one second trunk release output ( Mode 3, Function 4, Opt 1 ).

In W2W mode, the AutoStart gets its' Tach signal from the ADS bypass module. The AutoStarts' Purple Tach Input wire on
the 4 Pin connector goes to the ADS PURPLE / White Tach Output wire on the 10 Pin connector. No connection to the vehicle is
necessary. The properly programmed ADS bypass module will generate a Tach signal from the data it gathers from the cars
CAN wires.

As for the ADS Brake Output measuring 8V DC, not sure. I have never had a problem with the ADS Brake output but I
don't use AutoStart units. With Ultra Start and Compustar units, the ADS Brake signal works fine.

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Soldering is fun!

One step further. Used a jumper wire on the trunk input and voila, it works. I guess the bypass had to see how it's done the first time.
Still having a problem with remote start. Any idea why the R/S is receiving a tach signal too early? Wouldn't that be a bypass issue? What could be a possible fix for that?
I wasn't able to read any voltage on starter 2 so far. Could that be part of the problem?
Thanks for your input kreg!

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"Good judgment comes from experience. Experience comes from poor judgment."
-unknown

The AutoStart should output +12V on the Starter1 ( thick Purple ) and Starter2 ( thick Green ) wires at the same time during
a remote start attempt. Use your DMM to see if that does happen. If Starter2 does not have the output voltage double check
the 5th relay jumper position and the two 30 Amp fuses on the two thick Red wires.

Connect the DMM to the AutoStarts' thick Yellow Ignition wire and see if there is +12V when the ignition key is
inserted and turned to ON.

While it probably is a timing issue with the AutoStart, you could connect the AutoStart Tach wire directly to the Altima
instead of the ADS bypass module. Here is the info from ReadyRemote :

Tachometer PURPLE / White (ac) @ ECM, black 32 pin plug, pin 14
The ECM (Engine Control Module) is in the engine compartment, next to the battery.

Can also go to any fuel injector and use the wire that is NOT Light Green or YELLOW /GREEN.

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Soldering is fun!

kreg, I found the problem!
But first, as per your last reply I checked Starter1, Starter2 and Ignition with a DMM. They are all good.
But I still had/have this brake issue. The R/S doesn't see/receive a "proper" brake signal from the bypass. Even after programming the bypass and ignition being ON.
I always had to use a jumper wire from Starter1 (at R/S [which is connected to the brake switch]) to brake input at R/S. That's the only way I get a brake signal to the R/S.
Figured I would try a remote start with that setup. Voila it worked. Started very smoothly.
Could the bypass be damaged or is it the software on it?
I guess I can keep the jumper wire in place for now. Is that potentially harmful to the whole setup. But that's not the solution.
Help. posted_image

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"Good judgment comes from experience. Experience comes from poor judgment."
-unknown

Never mind. After writing the previous post, I went back to the car. Wouldn't start with or without jumper wire from brake switch to brake input at R/S.
Reprogrammed the bypass and got one successful remote start (this time without jumper wire). After that, nothing worked. Tried reprogramming the bypass, with jumper wire, without jumper. Nothing!
Totally confused.

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"Good judgment comes from experience. Experience comes from poor judgment."
-unknown

This is a bit hard to explain but...
On a standard R/S install ( non-PTS vehicle, no fancy CAN bypass module ), if the remote starter saw a Brake
Pedal depressed input signal it would not attempt or abort a remote start attempt. This remote start type of failure
actually has a diagnostic code ( the Parking Lights flashing 3 times ) with your AutoStart unit.

Your PTS vehicle needs to see the Brake Pedal depressed to allow a remote start.   A bit of a Catch 22. If the R/S unit
used/monitored that same Brake Pedal wire that the Starter1 output wire was connected to, the R/S would "see" the Brake
pedal depressed during cranking and would not allow the remote start.    That is the reason that the ADS bypass generated
Brake Status Output signal is used to supply the R/S with the Brake Status input. Looks like the bypass module uses the
AutoStarts' GWR signal and the Starter2 signal to know when the engine is remote starting/cranking to dis-allow the Brake pedal
depressed signal thru to the AutoStarts' Brake input wire.

Jumping the vehicles' Brake wire to the remote starts' Brake Status input wire defeats the Type 1 wiring and could/should
mess-up the remote start sequence on your PTS car. Obviously iDatalink wrote the NI5 firmware to support PTS vehicles &
made up the install wiring diagram and tested it on many actual Nissan's. If there was an issue, it would have been found and
corrected by now.

Not to sound like an iDatalink shill, but I have total confidence in iDatalink modules and follow their wiring guides and
programming procedures to the letter. ( Don't have that same confidence with D2D yet, so I still go W2W...) Perhaps the
bypass module is bad or damaged. Personally, I would triple check my wiring and connections to ensure they were
all good and exactly as per the supplied diagram, re-flash the bypass module and then set the install mode and program
to the vehicle. Next would be a new bypass module, same procedure.

Your AutoStart unit has some programming to support PTS vehicles, however I think the iDatalink bypass handles
everything on its' own so it is probably best to leave Mode 4, Function 5 at the Default / Disabled setting.

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Soldering is fun!

I kept an eye on the bypass during a remote start sequence. The led turns solid green, red, green again and then off. What could that mean?

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"Good judgment comes from experience. Experience comes from poor judgment."
-unknown

Think blinking Green during remote start is good. Never come across your LED color / blink pattern before. Still think a module reflash with the latest firmware is the best bet ( or even another module ).

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Soldering is fun!

I actually got it reflashed last weekend. Latest firmware 1.4.
I think I will try to hardwire the tach and see if that does anything.

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"Good judgment comes from experience. Experience comes from poor judgment."
-unknown

Progress! I reset the bypass and remote. Reprogrammed both and voila, the car remote starts. But only if the OEM fob is inside the car. Without the fob, the R/S goes through the same starting sequence, except the orange key warning light stays on for the duration of the (unsuccessful)start. I assume it's a key sense issue even though the bypass programmed successfully to the smart key.
What do I do to fix this?
Regarding the early tach error I used to get. I am pretty sure that's because I didn't connect the tach wire to an actual source in the engine bay. But yet did a tach learning or at least did the programming steps for it.

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"Good judgment comes from experience. Experience comes from poor judgment."
-unknown

It's possible that the AutoStart doesn't like the ADS Tach output or that output is bad.

When you Factory Reset the bypass module, did you set the Install Mode to Standard ( W2W, two blinks ) and lock it in?

At this point, does everything else work? Door locks, trunk pop, etc? ( Aside from the smart key proximity issue.)

Think I would put a DMM on the ADS Yellow (+) Keysense Output wire during a remote start attempt. There should be no "bonus" diode on this wire ( it would need to be reversed anyway ). Also verify / test that you have the right Keysense wire ( Yellow at Pin 11 of the keyport plug ).

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Soldering is fun!