2011 Toyota Tundra Remote Start Bypass

Have a 2011 Toyota Tundra that my friend wants a Remote Start installed. I need a bit of direction as to which bypass to use. I have confirmed with them that the key is a black key with no G stamped into it. However, all the bypass modules I'm finding state the firmware only works for the 80 bit "G" keys. I'm likely installing a Code Alarm (5150 or 5152) with Flashlogic Bypass (iDataLink) or an Astro RS-623 with DB-ALL depending on what he wants to spend. I've checked the instructions and they all say the same - not compatible with anything other than a "G" key. I know he won't want to give up a key and a D2D intall is much easier anyway. Can anyone here confirm what is needed or what they are using? I assume that it has a factory alram at minimum and requires some type of bypass. Thanks in advance for any help and info.

This is the firmware versions for DB-ALL

Some Toyota 2010 model have a different encryption

types. Please look at your key blade and identify the mark.

A dot “.” means the vehicle must be used with TL1 and can’t work with TL4 firmware.

A “G” means the vehicle is valid for TL4 firmware.

 

Flashlogic FL-Can is also a good choice.    Keep in mind both of these bypasses will require special updater cables connected to the computer to flash to the correct firmware. 

Thanks for the info. I spoke to the person and they didn't confirm the key markings because they only checked the plastic. I'm waiting to hear back. They want a basic start with door lock, so I'll likely be using the less expensive Code and Flashlogic module. I am aware of the need to program the firmware. The dealer I get the bypass modules from sends them pre-programmed, but I have to confirm which firmware for him to load.

Follow up: I confirmed this DOES have the G stamped in it. They didn't look on the shaft. So, this is not a problem with the FL-CAN.

Next question is does anyone know if these vehicles have built in Anti-Grind? The ignition looks to be low current from my initial research and I know the Malibu I got my daughter has a low current ignition with Anti-Grind. It would be helpful information so I know if I need to order a relay kit ahead of time. I alway install anti-grinds in my installs. Thanks again for all the info.

No factory anti-grind on Toyota vehicles but you will still need extra relays for the 2nd IGN/ACC for this truck.

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Jeff
Velocity Custom Home Theater
Mobile Audio/Video Specialist
Morden, Manitoba CANADA

The Code 5150/5152 have built in relays for IGN 1, IGN 2, and ACC (even a spare output for a 3rd IGN, 2nd ACC, or 2nd Start) on the main harness. Why would I need additional relays? The only line I want to interrupt is the starter.

Didn't realize that the Code system had extra onboard relays, not familiar with this system. You would still need a relay for the anti grind unless of couirse the Code has one of those as well like the Compustar systems.

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Jeff
Velocity Custom Home Theater
Mobile Audio/Video Specialist
Morden, Manitoba CANADA

Nope, done quite a few Code systems. Nice little units, but no built in Anti-Grind. The high current output plug has (2) 12V in, (1) IGN,(1) IGN2, (1) ACC, 1 Start and (1) programmable (ACC, Start or IGN 3). I haven't done a low current ignition install before. I see where the Tundra has a (2) 7.5 Amp 12V lines to it, but I planned on using the 12V main at the fuse box (Thick Black Wire). I just want to ensure I can connect the main harness wires to the thinner Toyota Ignition wires without issue. One would assme you could use the two 12V wires at the Ignition harness and that the Remote Start would then not be able to output more current than it's taking in. However, could that possibly put undo load on that circuit. I'm completely comfortable installing the unit, but I was seeking advice here to ensure longeity and avoid any known potential issues. Thanks all for the input.

How are you shop guys wiring them up for Ignition Harness and power?

This is a 5051 which will be used with the Flashlogic FLCAN in D2D mode.  (I may use the 5152 which is the same unit, but adds an extra AUX out and has nicer metal transmitters)

https://www.audiovoxproducts.com/code-alarm/remotestart/?sku=CA5051

Don't mean to hijack your thread, but I have a question on this vehicle that isn't worth starting a new thread.

Buddy of mine has the same truck, he took it to a big time shop.

They told him that toyotas will not lock when they are running. And that he needed to get a $300 locking kit.

He already has power locks, so I can't see why he would need another module.

I think he got screwed over here.

Am I right? Or does he need a special kit for toyota's?

jsolts wrote:

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Don't mean to hijack your thread, but I have a question on this vehicle that isn't worth starting a new thread.

Buddy of mine has the same truck, he took it to a big time shop.

They told him that toyotas will not lock when they are running. And that he needed to get a $300 locking kit.

He already has power locks, so I can't see why he would need another module.

I think he got screwed over here.

Am I right? Or does he need a special kit for toyota's?

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Most bypass modules will control the lock/unlock and arm/disarm features for this truck without additional modules or relays.

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Jeff
Velocity Custom Home Theater
Mobile Audio/Video Specialist
Morden, Manitoba CANADA

That's what I thought. He had the a viper with smartstart installed.

So I'm 95 percent sure it could handle to door locks.

I know I've seen vehicles that factoy the fobs won't work once the vehicle is running, but never lock that won't work.

Sounds like he got ripped off. Even if the bypass didn't control the locks, they could hardwire the lock output directly to the negative trigger. Most new vehicles have a feature where you can't lock the doors when open, while running. However, if you trigger the door lock wire directly, it simulates pushing the lock switch. I'll be getting this vehicle Friday to install and can comment further after I''m done with it. The proper bypass module (I'm using the FL-CAN) should knock down install time because I believe it controls most everything I would other wise need to tap like tach, locks, brake stat, hood stat, factory arm/disarm etc.). I may only have to wire the horn and possible the door lock (I install my units so the lock before start because they have a pulse before start output). The standard 12V outputs will apply to the ignition switch and as per my earlier question, I always use an Anti-Grind. I'm doing the total install for $350 (with all the features). May even throw in defroster output if his truck has the rear window or mirror defrosters. 

Just wanted to ask the other installers where they are connecting their 12V inputs to the Remote Start Module? I see there is a high current wire listed that feeds the fuse box directly, but there are also two 7.5A 12V wires right at the Ignition Harness. The Code Alarm (and most Start Units) have two 12V inputs on the high current plug.  I personally like to use wires coming off the battery. My only concern is overcurrent at the ignition. So, which wires do you guys tap?

Use the 4 guage 1 pin wire going into the BCM/fuse box for your 12 volt input.

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Jeff
Velocity Custom Home Theater
Mobile Audio/Video Specialist
Morden, Manitoba CANADA

Just want to thank all for the input and advice. The install went smoothly and the bypass integrated everything PERFECTLY! Customer is super happy with his new features. Only wish the bypass interface could automatically activate the mirror defroster at a given temp. That would have been the cat's ass! Really pleased with the idatalink/Flashlogic modules. Next up is my daughters 2007 Malibu!