Mazda CX 7 R/S Locks And Disarm

Mazda Cx7  - Compustar Cm6200 and blade TB

When the vehicle remote remote starts the alarm goes off. I think this is due to the factory alarm not being disarmed.
Looking over the forums i found this..

LOCK  GREEN/ red  In driver's kickpanel    - 
   One wire doorlock system. Ground through a 1K-ohm resistor to lock and straight ground to unlock.
 
 UNLOCK  GREEN/ red  In driver's kickpanel    - 
   One wire doorlock system. Ground through a 1K-ohm resistor to lock and straight ground to unlock.

 FACTORY ARM  BLACK/ white  In driver's kickpanel    - 
   One wire security control. Ground through a 1K-ohm resistor to arm and straight ground to disarm.
 
 FACTORY DISARM  BLACK/ white  In driver's kickpanel    - 
   One wire security control. Ground through a 1K-ohm resistor to arm and straight ground to disarm. 
 

Can i run the leads from the R/S (Lock - with resister ,Unlock, Arm - with resister, and Disarm) to the factory wires directly.

Or does each need to be run thru a relay?

And will this provide me with a proper ground? Or do i need to use these as triggers and provide a body ground?

You must use relays to provide a good ground. To hook up the locks and alarm, use the remote starter's disarm output (through relay) to the disarm wire (BLACK/ white). Use the unlock output from the starter to the vehicle's unlock wire (through relay). Use the remote starter's lock output (through relay)to the vehicle's rearm (also locks doors) wire and insert a 1K ohm resistor inline. You won't need the vehicle's lock wire.

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sparky

Use the Lock and Unlock output from the R/S (White 6Pin Connector. Blue - Unlock, Blue/Black - Lock). Wire it straight to the BLACK/ White on the BCM (Lock goes through a 1K ohm resistor), no need for a relay. BLACK/ White controls lock/unlock and arm/disarm. Leave the R/S on the default 0.8 pulse to unlock all doors. Program the R/S to unlock before starting, lock after starting. It's option 1-01, setting 2.

If I'm going this far, I might as well connect the lock wire inline with the resistor and add the lock function to the new fob.

How to I test for correct lock wire? Or just hook it up and try?

jsolts wrote:

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If I'm going this far, I might as well connect the lock wire inline with the resistor and add the lock function to the new fob.

How to I test for correct lock wire? Or just hook it up and try?

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I don't understand what your trying to do here. The BLACK/ white wire on the BCM does lock and unlock along with arm and disarm. One connection for everything. Connect your unlock output from the starter straight to the BCM. Put a 1K ohm resistor on your lock output and tie it to your unlock output wire, or run it to the BCM, same as the unlock.

One that connection has been completed, program option 1-01 to setting 2 to solve the alarm when r/s.

Meter for the correct write while turning the key in the door cylinder.

And you WILL need relays, the lock/unlock out puts don't produce enough current to get past the resistors and this applies to ALL alarm-R/S units with 2 wire NEG (-) lock outputs.
Been there done that.

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Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

Forgive my ignorance.......

When i meter, Red Lead from DMM to 12v and black lead to WHITE/ black?

What should my DMM read when i turn the key in the door?

12V+

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Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

I've done this car, I only used a relay for Lock, with the resistor of course. Unlock went straight to the wire. Same with the arm/disarm wire. I didn't try it with out the relay on lock.
To test, I use an analog multimeter. The lock wire will make the meter's needle move when pressing lock/unlock button on the drivers door panel. It will go to 12volts when unlock is press and probably around 5 volts when lock is pressed. For the arm/disarm wire, you will be testing while turning the key in the drivers door key cylinder outside the car. You will get the same results on your meter as above. 12v for disarm, and about 5 volts for arm.

See, now I've done one and neither lock, unlock, arm, or disarm worked without relays. I have a feeling it's one of the border line ones where sometimes it will work and sometimes it won't. Since you have to put a relay in for lock / arm, you might as well use one for unlock / disarm.

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Kenny
Owner / Technician
KKD Garage LLC
Albany, NY 12205

You might be right flobee, it's just that the first time I did this about 10 years ago on a VW Polo, 1Kohm, I seemed to need relays both sides.

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Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

So OP I actually posted before Kenny but they had to airmail my reply across the pond!
Conflicting advice, all given by experienced installers, Flobee says not needed, Kenny and I say it's needed.
Wire it Flobee's way but have a spare relay in case and let us know!


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Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

Working at a Mazda dealer, 95%+ of my installs are Mazda. With a CM6200, I have NEVER needed a relay for lock/unlock, and NEVER have had a problem.

If you want to use a relay for peace of mind, that's perfectly fine. I'm just saying based on my experience with Mazda, a relay isn't needed.

No relays, so not even diodes to prevent feedback on the wires?

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Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

No relays, no diodes. Straight connection from R/S for unlock. Straight connection trough resistor from R/S for lock. I'll splice the unlock wire into the lock wire, after the resistor of course, so there is one single wire connected to the BCM. Don't need to fool with the GREEN/ red wire on the BCM, just the BLACK/ white.

The BLACK/ white is in the bottom connector on the firewall facing side of the BCM. It's a corner pin on the connector, so it's that much easier to find.

some alarms outputs are just more powerful than others. it has nothing to do with the car's need for a relay.

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This is true. I use only Compustar products. I have heard of issues with Directed remote starters having problems with things like poor/weaker triggers.

Amongst loads of other faults.

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Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

Will the alarm and disarm triggers from the cm6200 to the BLACK/ white also lock and unlock the doors?

Or do I need the RED / green to add that feature to my aftermarket fob?

BLACK/ White will do both ARM/DISARM and LOCK/UNLOCK