03 silverado diesel/avital 4103/dball

First off, great site! I’ve used search countless times already!

Vehicle: 2003 Silverado 2500HD diesel
Remote Start: Avital 4103
Bypass Module: DBALL

Preparing for D2D install, does everything look correct?
H1/1: ()Factory alarm disarm - N/A
H1/2: ()Factory rearm - N/A
H1/3: (+)Ignition out (to alarm) - Connect to white wire on ignition harness (or brown or pink? Does it matter?)
H1/4: (-)Activation Input - N/A
H1/5: (-)Ground when locked - N/A
H1/6: (-)Horn Output – N/A
H1/7: (-)Trunk Release Output - N/A
H1/8: Ground - To common ground
H1/9: (-) Light Flash – Connect to BCM, gray/black wire, pin B2. Also need to change jumper on remote start to negative.

4-pin satellite harness
1: (-)Status Output – D2D
2: (-) Accessory Output – D2D
3: (-) Starter Output – D2D
4: (-) Ignition Output – D2D

Heavy gauge relay wiring
1: (+) Output to Ignition Circuit – to pink ignition wire
2: (+) Output to Starter Circuit - to yellow ignition wire
3: (+) Output to Accessory Circuit - to orange ignition wire
4: (+) (30A) High Current 12 Input - to red ignition wire
5: (+) Programmable output for accessory or ignition – to brown (or white, does it matter?) ignition wire
6: (+) (30A) High Current 12 Input - to red ignition wire

Door lock harness
1: (-) Unlock output – N/A
2: N/A
3: (-) Unlock output – N/A

Remote start harness (H2)
H2/1: (-) Neutral safety switch input – N/A
H2/2: Tachometer wire – N/A
H2/3: (+) Brake switch shutdown – to white brake pedal wire
H2/4: (-) Hood pin switch - to hood pin switch if used or leave wire disconnected?
H2/5 (-) 200ma 2nd status/rear defogger output - N/A.

DBALL violet / YELLOW to violet pin 2 on OBDII connector.

Finally, I could not find the wire to hook to the wait to start light, so I assume I will have to set the wait to start timer in the remote start programming menu which is 15 seconds (that’s the minimum and it seems long, my truck is taking about 6 seconds for the light to turn off when its 32 degrees out).
I also plan to have the truck’s heated seats turn on when below 32 degrees. This is controlled through the DBALL menu.

Does this all look correct? Any clarification on the H1/3 or Heavy gauge wire number 5?

Thank you in advance!!!

A few updates...

H1/3 - not used ( don't connect to ignition harness )

H3/5 White to Truck White IGN2 - set Avital Flex relay to IGN2.  Must power or transmission issues.
You will need an extra external relay if you want to power the Brown ACC2 wire.  Use (-) Accessory Output
from 4 Pin Satelite harness to control relay.

H2/1 to chassis ground if truck is auto trans.

H2/4 install hood pin and connect wire.  Important safety feature.

Not an Avital user or a big fan of D2D.     Have read of some issues with D2D and Avital...  W2W always works.

-------------
Soldering is fun!

so for the H3/5, I'll connect to the white in ignition harness. The 4103 is default set to ignition (vs accessory), so I'll leave it to default.

Any comments about the wait to start wire? It seems there must not be one with this remote start?

With D2D, I've read similar on here with various bypass modules. Though I havn't read anything using the DBALL bypass using D2D. If I run into issue's, I'll just go W2W. I'm hoping to keep this install as simple as possible.

Not familiar with the Avital 4103 but going by the install guide from the Downloads section, there doesn't appear to be an actual Wait To Start wire, just the programmable wait period, with 15 seconds being the shortest. 

Just a thought on the DB-ALL's Tach output : It may not be generated on a diesel engine, not positive.  Also, some units can not transfer the tach data thru the D2D connection.  So, if you can't get the Avital to successfully Tach Learn, try running a hardwire between the modules.  If it still won't learn, then you may have to go directly to the White tach wire at the instrument cluster.

-------------
Soldering is fun!

Depending in the date code of the avital will determine if it will work D2D. Also some need programmed to operate in D2D vs ESP.

Never Ever Do d2d with avital you will have major issues at sometime! Always W2W lower end units

The Avital 4103 only works in 1-way D2D which means it can send info to the module but can't receive signals back from the module in D2D.

It won't learn tach in D2D. You can (like others have mentioned) go W2W to the DBALL and get tach that way.   The only useful D2D option that Avital will feed to the DBALL is GWR and door locks.

Also, D2D has to be turned on for it to work properly. The red D2D port is defaulted to use with the Bitwriter programmer.

-------------

Okay...you have all convinced me not to use D2D with this unit! Its not much more work anyways. I appreciate all your input!

Going W2W, here is my wiring plan. Look correct?

Vehicle: 2003 Silverado 2500HD diesel
Remote Start: Avital 4103
Bypass Module: DBALL - programmed for my vehicle and turning heated seats on at 32 degrees

Remote Start harness
H1/1: ()Factory alarm disarm - N/A
H1/2: ()Factory rearm - N/A
H1/3: (+)Ignition out (to alarm) - N/A
H1/4: (-)Activation Input - N/A
H1/5: (-)Ground when locked - N/A
H1/6: (-)Horn Output – BLACK / YELLOW wire in steering column
H1/7: (-)Trunk Release Output - N/A
H1/8: Ground - To common ground
H1/9: (-) Light Flash – Connect to BCM, gray/black wire, pin B2. Also need to change jumper on remote start to negative.

4-pin satellite harness
1: (-) 200mA Status Output – to DBALL blue/white, GWR wire
2: (-) 200mA Accessory turn on – to DBALL WHITE/ black, (heated seats)
3: (-) 200mA second starter turn on – N/A
4: (-) 200mA third turn on – N/A

Heavy gauge relay wiring (all wires to truck ignition hraness)
1: (+) Output to Ignition Circuit – to pink ignition wire
2: (+) Output to Starter Circuit - to yellow ignition wire
3: (+) Output to Accessory Circuit - to orange ignition wire
4: (+) (30A) High Current 12 Input - to red ignition wire
5: (+) Programmable output for accessory or ignition – to white ignition wire
6: (+) (30A) High Current 12 Input - to red ignition wire

Door lock harness
1: (-) Unlock output – to DBALL blue wire
2: N/A
3: (-) Lock output – to DBALL green wire

Remote start harness (H2)
H2/1: (-) Neutral safety switch input – Auto trans, so to ground
H2/2: Tachometer wire – to DBALL violet/white (or should I skip DBALL and wire remote start to instrument cluster tach (white) wire?)
H2/3: (+) Brake switch shutdown – to white brake pedal wire
H2/4: (-) Hood pin switch - to hood pin switch
H2/5 (-) 200ma 2nd status/rear defogger output - N/A

DBALL harness
Violet yellow to violet Pin 2 on OBD connector
Red to red ignition wire (same as heavy guage 4 or 6)
Black to chassis ground

The DBALL wiring diagram is asking for a front door status input from the remote start. Where do I hook that up?

Actually the DB-ALL is supplying a Door Status output signal to the R/S unit.  It is used for alarm system purposes.  Your Avital 4103 R/S w/Keyless Entry system does not need it.

-------------
Soldering is fun!

I'm close! But am having a issue. It's hooked up like a have in my last post, and it starts, but dies immediately. I've increased the crank time...no help. I've also changed the engine checking option...changed it to tach..no change. Then I changed it to off. No change. I feel like its a issue with the dball, but I've programmed it like the instructions say. Any ideas?

May be stupid question, but with the system set to tach sensing, did you actually learn the tach signal (iirc it's start the car, press & release programming button then press and hold until the lights flash)

-------------
Kenny
Owner / Technician
KKD Garage LLC
Albany, NY 12205

I have learned the tach signal. Twice actually and the led stays constant like it supposed to when the tach is learned.

I ran the shutdown diagnostics on the remote start and I got error 3 which is low or no rpm, low battery(for voltage and virtual tach modes). I ran these diagnostics immediately after I attempted a remote start, and the truck fired then died immediately(it then tried two more times and also died immediately).

After I ran the shutdown diagnostics, I changed the engine checking menu option to "off". I then attempted to remote start. Truck fired and died immediately. The ignition then stayed on like the truck was running, even though it was not. It did not try restarting.

I'm thinking I'm going to start the truck with the key, then check the tach signal wire voltage at the remote start pin. Anyone know what it's supposed to be? Positive or negative?

Any tips on this issue?
Thanks!

One other thing I should mention...I tested the valet mode.

I started the truck with the key. Then when it was running, I pressed the remote start button, and remove the key. The truck stayed running! This tells me the immobilized is working correctly! So that's great news, but confuses me as to what the issue is!

Have you tried to change the Tach Threshold pin?  Page 26 of the install manual. 

-------------
When all else fails, Read the Instructions
Support the12volt.com Make a Donation

I was just about to post the same thing...except my module doesn't have that! It's listed in my manual, but its not on my module. I must have an older one! I'll be in contact with the seller to get a replacement module.

FYI I did measure the voltage of the tach wire where it connects to the remote start. 5.75v.

The lack of jumper has got to be the problem...

There has to be a workaround you'd think...it's not like this is a new thing.

Are you still using the DB-ALLs' Tach Output?  If yes, you might try connecting the Avital directly to the trucks' White Tach wire at the instrument panel instead.  Then do another Tach Learn and see what happens.

Did the DB-ALL program properly?  Do the power locks work OK thru the Avital?

-------------
Soldering is fun!

Tach wire is going straight to the avital. With the truck running, the tach wire is sending 5.75v to the avital, measured at the avital.

The lock/unlock works great. Also valet mode works (pushing the start button while the truck is running, then removing the key). So I think the db-all is working properly.

Still a little confused.  The Avital uses the Tach signal as an input.  It can get this signal from several places.  Is the Tach signal's source the DB-ALL ( Tach Output ) or the truck itself ( White wire at instrument cluster )?  While it is not a perfect test, a normal Tach wire signal can be checked with a DMM set to 20V AC.  It should read between 1 and 6 volts and rise slightly with RPM's.

Being able to go into PitStop Mode on a vehicle with Passlock2 can be deceiving.   For immobilization purposes, the resistor value is only checked during cranking ( key in Start position ).   I believe Passlock2 disables the fuel delivery system but on some vehicles still allows cranking.  The engine will crank, even start, stumble and die.    PitStop mode will verify the rest of the ignition wires.

-------------
Soldering is fun!

I'm using the white wire in the instrument cluster directly to the avital.

One other thing...
I am not connecting the d2d harness at all since I'm using w2w. Is that correct?

So frustrating...it crank, fires, then something is killing it before it even achieves idle!

The problem is NOT tach related if:

1 - You have the unit set for tach sensing and it will take over when originally started with the key
2 - If tach sensing was shut off and it still starts for a moment then dies.

Usually a tach issue allows the truck to run for a few minutes and dies OR may just crank and crank for a minute then shut off.

This is either an issue with the DBALL learning the code of the immobilizer system OR more likely is the avital is NOT triggering the DBALL when it's about to attempt a remote start. I'm also leaning on this one since everything else is working via the DBALL (locks, etc).

What is the LED doing on the DBALL when you try remote starting?
Is it lit? Flashing? Solid?

Since you have connected W2W, what wire is connected to the DBALL's Blue/White GWR Input (pin 10 of the 10-pin connector)?

-------------

         Times 2 with Frank.

-------------
Soldering is fun!

I have the dball pin 10 blue/white wire connected to the avital 4 pin harness blue 200mA status output. I checked for connectivity and its a good connection.

The dball is flashing green continuously while attempting a remote start. I believe that means the gear is active and normal.

I should also mention when programming the dball, everything went as it should. I connected the 10 pin, (but not the 12 as I have nothing connected to that harness). I held the programming button, then connected the 14 pin. LED turns on orange, I release button and it turns red. Then start the vehicle with key, LED turns green, turn vehicle off and remove key.

Yep that sounds exactly like what it should it do. I'll be honest, I don't use DBALLs anymore due to inconsistent and very frustrating problems with them. I primarily use iDatalink modules.

I have installed on many Silverados including an '06 just this weekend and worked perfectly (i know that doesn't help you). But they are very straightforward installs.

You have 2 ignition wires, 2 Accessory wires, 1 Starter wire and 2 Power wires.

Otherwise, it's the data connection at the OBD II port, pin 2 (violet).

And of course ground, brake, parking lights, horn, etc.



-------------

When I run the shutdown diagnostics of the remote start, I get error 3, low or no rpm. Doesn't that point to the tach being an issue? I will return this remote start module for another that actually has the tach jumper like described in the install manual. (Easier said then done when ordering on amazon).

If the Passlock is preventing start, the remote starter will give you an RPM error since it's being prevented from starting. The Avital has no way of telling that it's the anti-theft stopping it so it thinks it's lack of RPM.

Earlier you mentioned you set the Avital to No Tach Sensing and it still won't start. It's not a tach issue if it won't stay on even with tach sensing off. I don't think it's an issue with the Avital.

I've been wrong before but I have installed tons of Avital 4103s and they are good basic starters. I think the problem is with the DBALL honestly.


-------------

I hear ya...

Just for troubleshooting, if the dball is the problem, shouldn't the remote start work with the key in the ignition? Or would I have to unplug the dball to test that?

This truck uses passlock II which is a resistance-based system via 2 wires.

The DBALL and other modules interact with the BCM directly via the data wire. The key itself isn't a chipped key, so therefore inserting the key in the ignition switch will do nothing for testing the remote starter. Only on transponder based systems will that work, but the passlock system is actually built into the ignition switch not the key. Hope that made sense.



-------------

Understood. I think I am going to return the dball and purchase a idatalink ads-tb. It's only $35 with free shipping from amazon and it looks like I don't have to install different firmware after I receive it ( is that correct?).

Hoping to keep it simple!

You will need to have it flashed with the correct firmware for your vehicle. Depending who you buy it from, they may be able to do it for you at no extra charge.

But if you are able to get it flashed, they work great. However the ADS-TB only controls the Passlock II and not the door locks. If you can get an ADS-DL, and get it flashed accordingly, it will take care of the Passlock and the door locks too.

-------------

In case this thread ever gets referenced in future searches...

The remote start is working! To get it working I ended up ditching the dball, and getting a idatalink ads-dl. Works well wired with D2D. Heated seats aren't turning on...but I'm just happy it's remote starting properly!