Printer Friendly Forum Posts - 2010 ford fusion heated seats

I am using an audiovox aps901c. The aux line is a neg output. The heated seats trigger is also a neg it is located behind the switch on the dash. When you press the button it sends a pluse and activates the heated seats. Now I have gotten this to work by taking a ground wire and touching the heated seat wire and it turns on. But, I'm needing a relay to do it from the aux channel of the remote start. Anyone have a diagram? Neg switched to a neg pulse?

would this set up work? and would I need a resistor of some sorts on the neg out. I have read a few other ford posts about trucks that have neg seat wires. They say it needs to be a latched output and not a pulsed output. I'm guessing the same would go for the 2010 fusion as well?

Try using a meter to ground it.
If 100 mamps or less is the draw all you need is your aux connected directly.
If you ground it for say 1 second and it stays on, then a momentary pulse is fine.
Otherwise the relay drawing shown is fine but insert a 1N4004 diode across 85 and 86 with the band towards 86, to protect the R/S.
If you want it latched, use a latched relay say Omron G6AK-234P-12DC
Switch on with the aux, off with say a spur from your vehicle unlock or a second aux.
US suppliers in Mouser, Farnell.
Or of course program the aux as latched with ignition.

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Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

G6AK should be G6BK sorry.

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Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

Thank you for your fast reply.. I will try it out this saturday. I am away right now and wont have the time to take the dash apart. I will let your know how it worked out..Also if its above 200 ma when i meter the switch then the relay is a must. I assume thats the 1 amp 1N4004 diode too?

Quite correct ref. the relay.
Yes, I regard it as mandatory.
On relay shut down the coil inductance generates an EMP spike of up to 300 volts. The 1N4004 is rated at 400 volts.
It can and does fry the R/S aux and sometimes lock outputs.
Seen it on the forum after people disregard that advice, "oh my locks etc. suddenly don't work".
At least YOU are listening and asking intelligent questions, the type of person it's a joy to help.
Ask away.

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Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

ahhh... I could see that spike happening in cold weather. Relays have a tendency to wanna stick when they get too cold. You sir have been most helpfull. I have been out of the install scene for about 12 years. This new tech of remote starts are alot nicer compaired to the massive pre-wired relay packs of yester-years. thanks again.

Howie, according to his diagram wouldnt you want the diode with the band toward 85, not 86, since he has +12v on that side. Just a little observation there.

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Absolutely right!
Sorry about that, on my diagrams I always place 86 to the right.
ISO convention of course also nominates 86 as the POS side of the coil, I know I should have looked posted_image

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Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

Ok. I wired up the relay. It clicks. The seat light doesn't light up nor heat up. I metered it from the WHITE/ blue wire (driver seat heater) I get 13.75v I press the button it drops to .022 volts then back up to 13.75 volts. Now if I press the button for the heated seats a bunch then when I do a neg pulse it works but as soon as I shut off the vehicle and remote start it the ground pluse doesn't work. Even if I tap the wire with a direct ground source. Nothing. But as soon as I start playing with the button the ground pulse works again. This WHITE/ blue wire is listed as a neg wire. I put the neg side of my fluke meter on the wire and put my pos to ground and I get a -13.75 that tells me it is a neg wire. What am I missing here? Don't understand why it's not turning on with a neg pulse. Is it a neg break maybe? And if so how can you do that with a relay?

You are testing with the engine running aren't you?
That's the only way it will work.

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Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

Yea. I'm testing with the engine running. But the ground pulse still doesn't work. Even a manual ground pulse doesn't work. It only works unless I play with the buttons a bit. Then it will work. But, As soon as it's tried after a fresh start it will not. Unless you play with the buttons again then it will only work 20% of the time with a manual neg pulse. That's why I think it's a break neg pulse. When the button is pressed voltage drops from 13.75 to .022 I can count to 2 and the voltage jumps back to 13.75. It does this every time the button is pressed.

If you have a spare 5 terminal Bosch/Tycho cube relay, wire as follows:-
Aux to 85.
Constant 12V+, fused 2 amps.
Switch side to 87a
Output side to 30.
Good ground to 87.
Diode, 1N4004 across 85 and 86, diode band to 86, MANDATORY.

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Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

So I would have to actually splice the WHITE/ blue wire. Switch side to 87a and the other side to 30. That should cause a 12v break in that line just as the switch does. Correct?

Yes and terminal 87 supplies the ground at the same time.

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Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

I did it exactly as you described it. And still nothing. The other thing that I just found out is if I cut the WHITE/ blue wire with nothing attached to either end, I can press the heater button and it still comes on. Makes me think that the wire is wrong that is detailed to be the right one.

Never mind. The light for the seat turns off after 5 seconds when not hooked up. And when it's attached per your last detail the button doesn't work either. So i'm guessing that its not a break relay setup either. Any other ideas as to what's going on.

So I went through this troubleshooting it. I went back to just a negative pulse. He is what I have done. 1: remote started the vehicle. 2: manually press the heated seat button. Then turned it off. 3: I trigger the relay manually by clicking it on a ground. The seat turns on with the ground pulse. But it only works with a ground pulse if the seat button was previously used. This is really puzzling me and only makes me want to get it to work even more. Lol

I still can't get the heated seats to work. The ground pulse it needs might need a resistor or something on it. But as far as I can see in all the tech logs about this car and the seats it does not. I really don't want to crack open the button control box and solder stuff in there. I am at a total loss. I have read about other people having problems with this car but no one has figured it out, or they just haven't posted anywhere about it.

The main power to the elements should be controlled by a relay probally under the dash. You can activate a additional relay with a latch at the relays to provide fused direct power to the elements. I have only done a 300m with a simular setup, but should be the same.