2008 silverado remote start

About a year ago i installed a Prestige APS997C on my father's 2008 Chevrolet Silverado. I used an Express kit DB-ALL to handle the data interface, door locks, hood open, brake and Tach input, etc. with an RFLCHGM loop for the security bypass. At the time he bought the truck (Used) he got a key that was not factory but it worked and the remote start worked fine. A few months ago he decided to go to a dealership and have a factory key made, he didn't like the way his worked in the ignition switch. They made the new key and it works fine but now his remote start will not work. The alarm and doorlocks still work but when we try to R/S it chirps the horn, the fuel pump comes on, and then nothing. The remote just flashes "Inhibit". I tried replacing the RFLCHGM loop with a new one with the same result. What else could have gone wrong? Do I need to reflash hte DB-ALL with the latest firmware? Any other ideas?

Inhibit sounds like one of the shutdown wires is active. Check the hood pin wire, brake wire and make sure no other inhibit wires are active. Also, if there is a toggle switch, make sure it's switched to the correct position to allow remote start.

It doesn't sound like an issue with the factory key.

Do all other functions work fine thru the Prestige remote?



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everything else works fine through the remote. The DB-All handles the doorlocks (working fine), the brake shut down wire, the hood pin, and the tach. If the truck is running it will go in to "Pit Stop" mode where you can allow the remote start to keep the truck running and take the key out. Not sure if that would work if the bypass needed to be reprogrammed.

Resetting the bypass is definitely worth a shot. With the flashlogic modules when a dealer scan tool is connected the flashlogic piece goes into scantool avoidance mode and can sometimes drop some of the functions. This is done to prevent an error message being displayed on the dealer scan tool resulting in possible un-necessary work being done (replacing a perfectly good BCM). The truck may be going into pit stop mode if the truck is designed to only read the RF key signal once during initial cranking (with the key). Just another perspective. Good luck on the repair.

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To master and control electricity is perfection. *evil laugh*

Actually come to think of it, I had a car back once because the DBALL lost programming after adding a new key on a Nissan Maxima (not the same car but similar issue). All i did was reprogram the DB-ALL and it was up and running fine again.

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In stereo! That's awesome.

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Thanks guys. I will try reprogramming it this weekend and post back with results either way.

I tried to reflag the bypass this weekend but my computer wouldn't recognize the xmloader2 and I couldn't figure out how to install the VIP software on another comp. I am giving up at this point and just taking to a shop and paying them to fix it.

Update; I haven't yet taken the truck to the shop, I got the express VIP program loaded and was able to reflash the DB-ALL but it made no difference. I did notice that the instructions for the RFLCHGM enclosed in the package seem to have an error. The first page gives directions for a Chrysler install with GM on the second page. For the GM it says to hold the transponder close to the switch and power up the ignition with a jumper wire. At the end it says "programing for CHRYSLER is now complete". The instructions I found online describe a completely different process. They say to make all connections, turn the ignition on for 1-2 seconds, turn off, remove key and within 5 seconds remote start. Can someone verify which is the correct process.

i am still fighting with this thing. i just can't break down and take it to a shop, I want to fix it myself. As I said before, I have reflashed the DBALL but it still wont crank. I also tried updating the DBALL to a newer firmware version which showed a different wiring diagram. After all of this it still will not crank the engine. It powers up the accessory and ignition circuits but it just doesn't crank. The remote start diagnostic shows the reason for shutdown as no tach signal. I have programed the tach, so if it ever does start it should be fine. The "Pit Stop" mode works fine (truck running on key, activate RS, turn switch off, remove key, and truck continues to run) and I can kill it via RS. It acts as if it is not getting a crank signal but I have the same system on my '96 GMC no factory security) so i swapped the brains and it works fine in my truck and my brain acts the same in his. I think the DBALL is OK because it is still controlling the doorlocks, door triggers, hoodpin, and brake shutdown. Does anyone have any idea why it will not crank? Thanks for the help.

to me sounds like dball. are you getting status output signal to dball from the remote start

I'm not sure. How do I tell if I am geting status output? Is that the ground out when running?

the bypass might be seeing an ignition input constantly so even when the truck is not on and running the bypass still sees it as running so instead of starting the truck it will just go into pit stop mode and it doesnt crank the starter.

check the wiring diagrams and see if the bypass has an ignition input wire and check to see if it is wired correctly.

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I have it wired per page 3 of the of this diagram. . The DBALL pink ignition in wire goes directly to the RS ignition out wire.

yes it is the ground out when running

had a similar issue in a 12 silverado which wires same way as your 08. We used DLPK instead of dball but had same issues as you basically. Wouldnt crank but would do a take over from key.

ended up having a bad connection on either the resistor wire or whatever you wanna call it. that resistor wire is what tells vehicle to start through a resistance. i would check the connection on that wire. if i recall that also triggers accessory. is your radio turning on or just the ignition

Yes, the radio is comi g on along with the headlights. I can hear the fuel pump run, everything seems like it is going to start but then no crank.

have u tried putting a key in ignition switch to see if it will remote start then. i would still dbl check connection on rcode wire

I have tried puting the key on the switch but it still will not RS. What does the rcode wire do? I have verified that the two violet wires are going to it per the instructions.

Perhaps it is worth mentioning again that everything was working fine until he took it to the dealership to have a new key made. After that it will not RS. I have replaced the RF loop twice.

that shouldnt have effected it. the r code is what tells vehicle to start via a resistance. it puts a resistance to it to start the vehicle. your issue is with r code wire IMO

there is a pink/black or a pink wire which is rcode and a white wire which is the 5 volt resistance. if you put a 9.6k ohm load accross those 2 wires it should start. this is what the dball is doing to get car to start. i would put a voltmeter on the rcode wire and see what it is doing during remote start. i believe it will read one value for igntiion then another for crank

This truck uses two individual types of antitheft to prevent you from starting it.

It's called PKIII+

It's a combination of a transponder key (chip in the key)

AND

a resistor based ignition switch.

And then they add a factory alarm as if all that mess above wasn't enough (that's the + part).

You need both the key code and the right resistance to start it.

If you hold the key up to the ignition and it won't start, it's because the right resistance isn't being read by the BCM at the same time as it's reading the key code. UNLESS you didn't program the RFLooP correctly. Excuse me for saying but DB-ALLs suck......... sorry had to get that out.

I have put RS in many newer Silverados (08-12) and never had issues with them starting. However, I use idatalink ONLY because of these exact issues with the DB-ALLs.

But, moving along.......

Are you using the correct guide for this installation? I see a different guide for that setup using Firmware - GM6 v2.39 -

New guide updated 122812

The new guide doesn't show you having to use the resistor code wires at all?

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Thanks for the replies. I saw the newer wiring diagram last week and spent several hours last Friday evening rewiring it and updating the firmware. When it was all done it still would not crank and the pit-stop mode would not work either so I put it back like it was to start with, at least it will go into pit-stop mode. I have not rechecked the voltage on the R-code wire since I did the original install a year ago. If I understand the instructions correctly, the R-code wire voltage varies depending on the position of the ignition switch. Is there any chance that the dealership adding a key would have affected the behavior of the R-Code wire? I'm not sure if it is related but I also noticed that the cruise control is not working. I looked for a blown fuse but they all seem to be good.

Adding a key wouldn't affect the resistor code as that's built into the ignition switch. If they replaced the switch too, then it would affect the resistor code.

And it makes sense that pit-stop mode wouldn't work with the new setup, now that I look at it again, since the diode is added to send ignition only towards the remote starter and the DBALL takes care of ignition on the truck. Pitstop mode would only work if the DBALL programmed correctly which also makes sense at to why it won't remote start.

Did you test the passlock wire coming from the ignition harness to make sure you have the correct wire connected to the DBALL?
RED / white is 12v constant
Brown is ACC
Pink for Ignition
Pink/black for Passlock

The correct wire will show different voltages for keysense, ACC, Ign, and crank/start.

Which wire on the Silverado did you connect the DBALL violet/brown and violet/green r.code wires to?


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I just find it strange that the DBALL wouldn't learn or start the vehicle with the new method either (well not really, but....).

If the pit-stop mode didn't work, it sounds like the DBALL isn't programmed correctly or wired correctly.

Did you change the firmware or have someone else do it for you?

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I programed it myself using the Xkloader2.

ok cool. I only asked thinking maybe the wrong firmware was being flashed on there.    

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No, I grabbed the latest firmware and the install diagram from xpresskit.com.

ive never used the dball we have a fleet of 08-12 silverados at work and i use dlpk and never an issue

It has been a few weeks but I am still trying to get this thing working. I know the newer GM vehicles have a factory anti grind, they won't crank if they are already running. I am starting to wonder if somehow that's causing the problem. Any ideas on how to test for that? I also just saw a thread about the newer GM cars with multiplex having issues, also wondering if I could be having an issue like that.

are u sure the dball isnt just a bad unit? i use dlpk with 08+ silverados and never an issue. Have done a number of them for work this past year