2008 altima with ultra start

HI everyone! I'm installing my third remote start, and I'm afraid I have some newb questions. I'm installing a Ultra Start 1272xr Pro and a Fortin Evo-all on a 2008 Nissan Altima. I've done some searching, but to no avail. My first question, on the remote start(RS), on the thicker gauge wires, the green wire states it is a Heater Output that is 0v when key is off, 12v in ACC and IGN positions, and off during start/crank. I though this might connect to a accessory wire, but when I test those wires according to my diagrams, all show 0v off,12v in ACC,and 12v while it runs. Where does this wire go? Also, on the same harness, the green wire says it is a selectable output. Either as a 2nd ignition, ACC or Start output. Does this need connected? My wiring diagram shows I have one positive Ignition. The other is a negative. Thanks for any insight!

You have chosen are "unique" vehicle for your 3rd install.  Unique in the fact that it is a Push To Start and uses CAN data for a lot of functions.   The good news is that the EVO-ALL does most everything for you.  Just follow the EVO-ALL install guide.  Here is a link :  https://ifar.ca/download/4211/preview.html

You will not be using / connecting the U1272's Accessory all.  If you are going W2W ( I would ) the U1272s' (+) Starter wire goes to the EVO-ALL only, not to the car.  Basically follow the EVO-ALL Type 5 install guide.  There are a few U1272 connections not shown, like the Parking Lights and horn.  Those would be connected in the usual manor.

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Soldering is fun!

Thanks for the quick reply! Yes, it's unique, I'll give you that. However, I have followed the Type 5 install, I have a wiring diagram from this site, plus a diagram from Fortin's own site. I have all the wires connected in for the Fortin, such as the PTS, the OBD port, Brake switch, and key port. On the RS, I have the 12v, Ignition, parking lights, horn, and ground connected. All that is left are these pesky 16 gauge green (heater output), and white(Selectable output/2nd ignition) I cannot for the life of me figure what to do with them. The harness has 6 wires. 2 of them are red and fused-that is my 12v. I have them connected. The blue is ignition- I have that connected. Yellow is starter output-I have that connected. What are the other 2 for?

Actually, I just reread your post 3 times, and looked at the Fortin diagram. So, all I need is to connect the 2 red wires for 12v, the ground, and the blue ignition wire? The diagram shows the ignition wire goes to the yellow ignition wire on the Fortin through a 1A diode, and then to car? That's it? What about the yellow starter wire on the RS?

Yes.  From the U1272 6 Pin heavy gauge ignition harness you would have the two Red fused power wires going to +12V constant.  The Blue
Ignition1 wire goes to the EVO-ALL Yellow wire and also thru a 1N400x diode to the vehicles Ignition wire.  The thick Yellow wire goes to the
EVO-ALLs' RED / Blue wire.  As I mentioned, I would go W2W and make all the necessary connections from the U1272 to the EVO-ALL shown in
dashed lines.  Those connections include :

U1272 Signal        EVO-ALL Altima
9 Pin harness
Pink       Brake           Black
Blue/White       Tach             Pink
RED / White        Trunk Release       Yellow/Black
WHITE/ Blue       Horn           blue/white or blue/orange (-)  @ horn switch, gray 8 pin plug, pin 8        
GREEN / WHITE   Hood Pin    Pink/Black (if Factory pin present, otherwise install supplied hood pin )

Parking Light/Ground
White (+)         Parking Light (+)        RED / blue (+)     @ dash fuse box, white 10 pin plug, pin 8
Black   Ground   Chassis Ground

Lock harness
Green   Lock          Purple
Blue      Unlock      PURPLE / White

Bypass harness
WHITE/ Violet     GWR          Dark Blue     
Red       +12V          Red   \    On 4 Pin harness, cut
Black     Ground     Black /    See page 3 Without DataLink

Ignition harness
Blue thick         IGN1         Yellow      plus thru 1N400x       RED / black  @ BCM, black 40 pin plug, pin 11    or   @ Green (+) wire @ Pin 8 of OBD2 connector
Yellow thick      Starter     RED / Blue
Red x 2 +12V            WHITE/ black (40A)     @ BCM, black 3 pin plug, pin 1

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Soldering is fun!

Thank you x 10! I mad all the necessary connections. Now, I'm caught up trying to program the Evo-All. I get to step 6, which is wait for the blue LED to flash after I've started the car, but it never blinks. I have figure that out. Anyone have experience with the Evo-All, in particular with programming?

Yeah, I got the evo_all programmed. However, now the RS won't do anything. I have 12v coming in, and good ground. But if I push buttons on remotes, absolutely nothing happens. Thoughts?

Hey kreg357, thanks for all the help. Question-on your wiring, pertaining to bypass(Datalink)harness-I am confused. In order to program the evo-all, I have to use the Datalink. Is it ok to have the Datalink plugged in, and still connect all the wires you mentioned above?

The 4 Pin Datalink connector is still used but, after the modification, only for power and ground.  That is the W2W mode of connection.  You can use the U1272's
bypass connector for power and ground as shown above and follow the EVO-ALL install guide on page 3, "Without Datalink" harness modification instructions
to make the connections ( also mentioned above ).

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Soldering is fun!

Gotcha. The harness has 3 connectors. One that goes to the evo-all, and one that goes to the RS, but there is a 4 inch pigtail that comes off that. I have everything connected, I will just snip the other 2 wires on that harness. As I mentioned, I got the evo-all programmed, but the RS isn't doing anything. Fuses ok, power ok, ground ok. Just seems dead. The other 2-3 starters I've installed were a breeze. This one has me baffled.

Think that EVO-ALL 4 Pin D2D harness has one side for the the EVO-ALL plug and the other side has a connector for Fortin DataLink / ADS Datalink or DEI DBI.  You choose the plug that fits your R/S's D2D port.  In your case you cut them off and connect the Red wire to +12V and the Black wire to ground as shown on Page 3 for W2W mode.

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Soldering is fun!

I really appreciate all your help. I have done all the necessary connections, rechecked my connections, followed everything. Evo-all is properly programmed, but I still can't figure out why the RS doesn't work. When I push any of the RS remote buttons, nothing happens. The whole thing acts like it's dead. When I start the car the conventional way, the evo-all lights up yellow, so I know it's reading something. I'm at a loss. I hope the whole unit is not a dud. Anyone have other ideas to trouble shoot these?

A few things to try with the U1272. 

1.  Assuming that you have the U1272 connected to the correct wires on the Altima, when you plug
in ( one of ) the two fuses on the Red power wires, the horn should beep.

2.  When you press the U1272 Unlock button the Parking Lights should flash twice and the horn should
beep twice.  You will also hear internal relay clicking from the U1272.  If neither U1272 FOB does this,
check the antenna and its' harness connections.  Perhaps the FOB's aren't paired to the brain.  Every
system I have used has this pairing already done but it is possible that yours doesn't.  Pairing is pretty
easy, just follow the instructions in the install guide on Page 8.

3.  If the U1272 is connected properly to the horn and parking light wires, the first time you started the
Altima ( after the EVO-ALL was successfully programmed to the Altima ), it should have done a Tach Learn
automatically and indicated this by two horn beeps and two flashes of the parking lights.  If the car was
started before the EVO-ALL was programmed ( and incapable of outputting a Tach signal ) then you should
have gotten 4 beeps / flashes and will have to do a Factory Reset ( bottom of Page 9 ) on the U1272 to
switch back to Tach Mode.

4.  Another test you can do to verify the EVO-ALL is :   Disconnect the 2 wire Door Lock Harness from the
U1272 and use a jumper wire to apply a brief chassis ground to either wire, Green should lock the doors
and Blue should unlock them. 

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Soldering is fun!

1) I did not get a horn beep when I inserted the fuses

2) Nothing happens when I push the buttons. I did think that it was a pairing issue, but I can't enter the program feature, since nothing is happening.

3) When the evo-all was done programming, it did sound the horn(can't remember seeing the lights). Then, I shut sown the car, per instructions, and tried starting with the U1272, and got nothing.

4) I will try that. I tested the red 12v wires at the harness that plugs into the U1272, and there is power. I used the ground I have it grounded to, and all is well.

There are a couple of possibilities in this situation.  It could be a bad antenna or antenna harness, a bad
brain or wiring problems. 

Lets start off with a few basic tests.  Here is a photo of a jumper cable used for testing.

First verify your horn and parking light wires in the Altima.  The horn wire will test as a (-) when the horn
button is pressed.  If you are sure you have the correct wire, verify it by briefly touching a jumper wire,
connected to chassis ground, to it.  The horn will beep.  The Parking Light wire is a (+) and will show
+12V when the Parking Lights are turned on.  If you are sure you have located the correct wire, connect
a fused jumper wire, connected to +12V constant, to the Parking Light wire.  The Parking Lights should
come on.

Pull the two fuses from the U1272's Red wires and do a continuity test on both.  Then re-insert them
( listen for the horn beep ) and verify +12V at the two pins with the Red wires on the 6 Pin connector at
the brain.  If the horn does not beep, it could be a bad U1272. 

If the horn beeped when the fuses were installed, press the unlock button.  Verify that the FOBs' Blue LED
lights up ( bad battery if no LED ).  If you get no response, try doing the remote pairing procedure.  If that
fails at Step 2, it could be the antenna or harness ( or even the brain ). 

Do you have a spare U1272 system to use for further testing?

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Soldering is fun!

I verified all is working. I deduced it to a bad 1272. Plugged another in, all is good! Everything worked as usual, but when I programmed the car to not honk the horn all the time, the RS is not responding to the remotes! ARGHHHHH! I tried reprogramming (twice), and nothing. I says they are reprogrammed, I get the horn and light confirmation, but nothing. It worked, now it doesn't.

Hmmmm, are you soldering all of your connections and insulating with heat shrink tube or Scotch Super 33+ electric tape?

Did you solder on a terminal ring to the U1272s' Black Ground wire and secure it to the clean metal of the chassis with a screw or bolt?

Maybe a Factory Reset on the U1272 is in order.

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Soldering is fun!

Ah ha, figured it out. After finally getting everything to work, I was making sure the program button/valet was ok. The button was sticking the whole time! So I unplugged the spare unit, plugged in the original, and it worked. I can't believe I went through all that for a sticky button. Lesson,(and many others) learned. I really, really appreciate your help, and hopefully this thread can assist someone else with a push to start system, or a 1272 system.. BTW, all connections are soldered and heat shrinked or taped properly. Thanks a ton!

All right!  Good job and just in time for the winter. 

Those clear antenna's can be an issue.  The button is recessed and sometimes hard to use during programming.  They aren't sealed ( weather tight ) so be careful when spraying Windex to clean the windshield...

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Soldering is fun!