Hello, I believe I have the layout of the wiring correct, but would like someone with more experience take a look. Also, I have some assumptions on some of the systems functions. The street rod has a modern EFI engine with auto trans. No electric door locks, hood pin or trunk pin. We are installing a new vehicle harness for American Autowire.
Main Harness, 6-pin connector
Instructions how I'm wiring
H1/1 red (+) 12vDC constant input Constant 12v input
H1/2 Black chassis ground Ground
H1/3 Brown (+) siren output attach to (+) side of siren
H1/4 WHITE/ brn Parking Light Isolation wire not using(?) not sure what isolation wire means
H1/5 white Parking Light output assume the viper controler grounds this wire. Wire according to the "Two wire light flash" in the basic illustration since the vehicle has parking wire going to the front of car and rear of car.
H1/6 Orange (-) 500mA Ground when Armed Output Not used.
Dook Lock, 3-pin Don't have electric locks so don't use any of these 3.
Remote Start, 10 pin Heavy gauge.
H3/1 Pink (+) Ignition 1 input/output Not Used
H3/2 RED / White (+) Fused (30A) Ignition 2/Flex Relay Not Used
H3/3 Orange (+) Accessory output Not Used
H3/4 Violet (+) starter output (car side of the starter) Wire out of igition switch that would go to neutral safety swtch then to starter. Route to this location instead. Can I not route it to through neutral safety as there is a neutral safety input?
H3/5 Green (+) starter input (key side of the starter Route to starter. Allows car to start either via remote or key switch?
H3/6 Red (+) fused (30A) ignition input Power from fuse block to this wire when key is put in the key-on position or start/run
H3/7 Pink/white (+) Ignition 2/flex relay output Not used
H3/8 Pink/Blk (+) Flex relay input Not used
H3/9 RED / Blk (+) Fused (30A) accessory/starter input Not Used
Auxiliary/shutdown/Trigger hanress, 24 pin
H2/1 (-)200mA ign/flex relay Not used
H2/2 (-) Neutral Safety Input Connect to one side of trans safety neutral switch, other side of safety neutral switch goes to ground.
H2/3 (-) 200mA 2nd status/Rear defrogger Not Used
H2/4 (-) 200mA OEM alarm disarm output Not used
H2/5 (-) 200mA Trunk Release Not Used
H2/6 (-) Door Trigger Input (N/C or N/O) Not sure how to wire? Door switch provides ground to courtesy when door is opened.
H2/7 (-) 200mA Doom Lamp supervision output Not sure what to do with this wire or if needed?
H2/8 (-) 200mA Horn honk output Not used since there is a siren?
H2/9 (-) 200mA Status Output Not used?
H2/10 (-) 200mA ign 1 output Not used
H2/11 (-) 200mA Aux 3 output Not used
H2/12 (+) Door Trigger input Not sure how to use with (-) door switch, see above.
H2/13 (-) 200mA Aux 1 output Not used
H2/14 (-) 200mA Aux 2 output Not used
H2/15 (-) 200mA Aux 4 output Not used
H2/16 (+) Brake shutdown Input Wire to brake switch so power is provided to this wire when brakes are pressed down.
H2/17 (-) Hood pin input Not used
H2/18 (-) 200mA Starter output Not used
H2/19 (-) Trunk Pin/instant trigger input Not used
H2/20 (-) Diesel wait to start Not used
H2/21 (-) Remote start/turbo timer Not used
H2/22 (-) 200mA Accessory output Not used
H2/23 Tachometer input wire to tach output of PCM
H2/24 (-) 200mA OEM Alarm Output Not used
Thanks for any input.
Kevin
The way you have it laid out you won't be providing any ignition or accessory power when remote starting. This most likely won't work (unless the ignition is always on).
Also, on an automatic transmission vehicle the NSS typically doesn't have to be wired in, as long as it is working. If you put the tranny in any gear except park or neutral if you can't start the car with the key you should be OK to wire the starter output directly to the starter output wire at the ignition switch. Also, if you can't start the car already with the car in gear you won't need to run the NSS through the tranny switch, just ground it.
Use the (-) door pin input for the doors, don't use the (+).
-------------
Kevin Pierson
This is a case of please read the instruction manual.
-------------
Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.
Kevin,
Ah, right. Using a remote start there has to be power to the EFI engine and electric fuel pump for it to start. Would I use H3/1 (+) ingition input/output to power up the EFI power and fuel pump?
I'm trying to understand how the 2 ways of starting work within this system. To use the key, I would need to disarm the system. This would allow the starter circuit to come in via H3/5 and out to the starter via H3/4. (Opposite of how I mentioned in my first post). Power to the EFI system would via my normal wiring and go through the NSS. Using the remote start, I don't know how it would check that the car is in Neutral? I assume the controller will have to power up the EFI hanress/fuel pump (you made me aware of) and provide power to the starter. Does it power up the starter via H3/4?
howie II,
If there is additional wiring diagrams or better explaination of the wording using the "quick reference install guide" I recieved with the unit, please direct me to it.
Thanks,
Kevin
As an example the H3 functions are all explained in the reference guide, I have one here but you must realise NONE of the leading brands want the man in the street to install, those guides are for pros who know what they are doing.
This isn't protectionism, it's LIABILITY.
Do you have an ignition key on this vehicle?
If so your comments about the injection system are irrelevant.
Also the NSS, auto boxes have an inhibitor switch. If you can only start the vehicle in park or neutral then fine. If not then run the BLACK/ white H2/2 to the NSS, but then I'VE NEVER heard of an auto box without an inhibitor unless you've removed it, in that case dangerous and more fool you.
In fact from your questions I would strongly recommend you get a pro to install this, Kevin P. would probably agree.
-------------
Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.
To simplify what I was saying, the injection and fuel are made "hot" by ignition 1, that is a wire at your ignition switch (or whatever you use to start the car) that goes to 12v+ when the gauges start to work and stays live during cranking and engine run that's your H3/1 pink.
Accessory if you have one goes to 12v+ on the first (or reverse) key movement and "dumps" on cranking, returns on engine run.
Ignition 2 if you have one goes live as ignition one again, "dumps" on crank and returns for engine run.
ACC and Ignition 2 may not be needed for a remote start.
As a practical point, if this is a non-standard body, I would run any ground wires back to the battery.
-------------
Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.
Thanks for the info. I can understand and appreciate the point from the manufacturers.
Kevin