06 silverado w viper 5704
Printed From: the12volt.com
Forum Name: Car Security and Convenience
Forum Discription: Car Alarms, Keyless Entries, Remote Starters, Immobilizer Bypasses, Sensors, Door Locks, Window Modules, Heated Mirrors, Heated Seats, etc.
URL: https://www.the12volt.com/installbay/forum_posts.asp?tid=132992
Printed Date: May 05, 2024 at 6:23 AM
Topic: 06 silverado w viper 5704
Posted By: secretagent420
Subject: 06 silverado w viper 5704
Date Posted: December 16, 2012 at 8:21 PM
i'm a former installer that decided to help out a friend and I'm having some trouble. Everything seems to be working fine except for the remote start. I get no output from either of the starter output wires(nothing on heavy gauge violet or light gauge violet / YELLOW) Ive been testing and trying for the last 6 hours and I'm stuck.
Anybody help?
-------------
I work good, and I work fine, but first take care of head.
Replies:
Posted By: kreg357
Date Posted: December 16, 2012 at 9:24 PM
Did you connect all 3 H3 fused power wires to +12V constant? Red, RED / White, RED / Black
Better yet, list your H3 connections. ------------- Soldering is fun!
Posted By: rauenpc2
Date Posted: December 16, 2012 at 9:39 PM
Just to add in, make sure to test all ignition wires. All the wiring guides show 2 ignition wires, but I just did one a couple weeks ago and it had 3 ignition wires... Without the third ignition wire hooked up the dash showed brake and abs lights while remote started.
Posted By: secretagent420
Date Posted: December 16, 2012 at 10:24 PM
had to call it a night so I pulled it out and returned to stock but ill put the rundown here and hopefully get it in this week.
I used a T harness for the H3 ign harness connections so I wouldn't have to cut into anything, glad I did.
H3/1 PINK -> PINK IGN+
H3/2 RED / WHITE -> RED FUSED 30A CONSTANT 12+
H3/3 ORANGE -> ORANGE ACC+
H3/4 VIOLET -> YELLOW STARTER CARSIDE
H3/5 GREEN -> YELLOW STARTER KEYSIDE
H3/6 RED -> RED FUSED 30A CONSTANT 12+
H3/7 PINK/WHITE-> WHITE IGN 2+
H3/8 PINK/BLACK-> N/A
H3/9 RED / BLACK -> RED FUSED 30A CONSTANT 12+
Note: There are 2 constant 12+ on the ign harness and I am using both of them but there doesn't seem to be a difference.
The alarm has been programmed for automatic
Neutral safety switch is grounded and toggle switch is on
Using an xpresskit DLPK GM bypass module
Working features are
lock/unlock
factory alarm arm/disarm
dome light comes on with unlock, comes on for 3 second on lock
siren is good
haven't tested door triggers or sensors
I was also getting some other strange things happening. Every once and a while I would get a horn honk when arming, but only 1 out of 10 times at the most. The parking lights weren't operating correctly either, only on when the truck was trying to start. The relays in the alarm sounded like they were activating but I'm not seeing any voltage on any starter outputs or ACC outputs when put into R/S mode.
The battery also died on the truck in about two hours after hooking up the alarm. We threw a charge on it and it seemed to hold. I did have some incorrect connections at first but I'm pretty confident everything was correct at the last try. I'm starting to think it's a bad brain but I'll try some more troubleshooting first.
I appreciate the help, this one's got me scratchin my head!
-------------
I work good, and I work fine, but first take care of head.
Posted By: secretagent420
Date Posted: December 16, 2012 at 10:31 PM
figured out the parking light flash problem, jumper fuse wasn't in.
-------------
I work good, and I work fine, but first take care of head.
Posted By: secretagent420
Date Posted: December 16, 2012 at 10:35 PM
The only other wire on the T harness is brown wire that is not T-ed
-------------
I work good, and I work fine, but first take care of head.
Posted By: smokeman1
Date Posted: December 17, 2012 at 6:59 AM
You can test the outputs of the 5704 by disconnecting the H3/1, H3/4, H3/7, and H3/3. Leave the H3/2, H3/6, & h3/9 connected to a constant 12 volt source.
Your DMM, set to 20vdc, and the black probe to ground.
Activate the remote start, with the red probe of the dmm check the voltage output of the H3/1, 3, 4, & 7 wires. You should have 12 volts, give or take, on those wires during the remote start attempt. H3/3 voltage will drop when H3/4 jumps in voltage. Hence Acc power dropping when starter in engaged. If you have no voltage something is broke or not connected correctly.
Not sure what T-Harness is for. Could that be your issue?? ------------- When all else fails, Read the Instructions
Support the12volt.com Make a Donation
Posted By: secretagent420
Date Posted: December 17, 2012 at 9:37 AM
T harness just goes into the ignition harness so that the starter wires dont have to be cut and the factory wires don't have to be stripped at all, just makes it easier to return to stock.
-------------
I work good, and I work fine, but first take care of head.
|