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avital 4103 remote start, 2000 grand prixPrinted From: the12volt.comForum Name: Car Security and Convenience Forum Discription: Car Alarms, Keyless Entries, Remote Starters, Immobilizer Bypasses, Sensors, Door Locks, Window Modules, Heated Mirrors, Heated Seats, etc. URL: https://www.the12volt.com/installbay/forum_posts.asp?tid=133135 Printed Date: July 15, 2025 at 2:57 PM Topic: avital 4103 remote start, 2000 grand prix Posted By: wstanulis Subject: avital 4103 remote start, 2000 grand prix Date Posted: December 30, 2012 at 10:35 AM Putting a Avital 4103 in a 2000 grand Prix 3.8L.
Trying to understand what needs to be done before I really dig in to it tomorrow. I used the12volt about ten years ago when I installed my first RS and I could not of done it without your help, you guys are great!! The RS instructions say that the two red wires on heavy gauge relay 6-pin connector which has a 40A fuse in each wire needs to hook up to 30A high current 12V input. Wiring information for the car shows one constant 12V by the ignition, is it OK to hook up both red wires from RS to this one constant 12V? Looking at the wiring schematic for the car, this red constant 12V wire noted above appears to go from the ignition switch through a 10A fuse (PCM BCM U/H Relay Fuse 10A) then goes to a crank relay which sends power through a 40A fuse. Question is does it matter if these two red wires from RS hook up to the constant 12V on car as soon as it comes out of the ignition switch or after the 10A fuse or after the relay suppling power to the 40A fuse? I'm thinking because this is a 12V input for the RS it should not make a difference as long as it see 12 volts, is this correct? Tach wire, ran tach wire to ignition module, some say to hook up to the PURPLE / white wire and others say hook to the white wire. At the ignition module there are two white wires, I guess one is suppose to go to the tachometer and the other one is suppose to go to the PCM (ignition ctrl in). Question, is it best to hook it up to one of the white wires and does it make a difference to which one or should I hook it up to the PURPLE / white wire. When testing these three wires I was getting about 2 - 3 volts at idal but only fluctuated about 0.01 volts when I increased the RPM up to about 2000 rpm, does this sound correct? The RS has a Satellite 4-pin connector, what is this for? I'm thinking that I do not need this for my install. Thank you in advance for your help and Happy New Year! ------------- Wes Replies: Posted By: kreg357 Date Posted: December 30, 2012 at 11:12 AM There should be two Red +12V constant wires at the ignition harness ( or one Red and one RED / White ). Each is When testing the Tach signa, was the DMM set to 20V AC? DC is no good for a Tach signal. What are you using as a bypass module? The car has PK3. If you go W2W with the bypass module you will need ------------- Soldering is fun! Posted By: wstanulis Date Posted: December 30, 2012 at 9:39 PM Thank you for your quick reply.
When I first worked on this a couple of days ago I checked the tach signal with the meter set on 200AC ( my meter only has a 200 or 600 AC settings), but it only flutuated about 0.01 AC volts when I increased up to about 2000RPM, it did not gradually increase as I was increasing the RPM ..... am I doing something wrong? You mention that I can use the White(ac) on the PMC, what does the (ac) mean? Do you mean to check this wire with meter set to AC? I already ran R/S tach wire to ignition module, I beleive that the one white wire I mentioned in my original post is the same white wire that you mention at the PCM, is this correct? I don't have a problem moving the tach wire over to the PCM but can I hook it up to one of the white wires or the PURPLE / white wire at the ignition module? You asked what I'm using for a bypass module, I'm using the 555GW GM Remote Start Inerface Module PassKey III from Directed. You mention "If you want to power the Brown ACC2 wire with an additional relay you will use the Orange (-) m200 mA Accessory Output wire, too." what do you mean by Brown ACC2. Is this an accessory wire? Where do I find this "brown" wire? Weather permitting I will work on this tomorrow morning, wish me luck. Thanks again. ------------- Wes Posted By: kreg357 Date Posted: December 30, 2012 at 10:05 PM Yes ac stands for AC as in alternating current ( normal U.S. household current is 115 Volt, 60 Hz AC ). The 200 Volt scale might not give a good reading at the typical Tach voltages found in modern vehicles. They are usually between 1 Volt AC and 5 volts AC. Could be tough to see with a rise of only 1 Volt AC with additional RPM's. You should always use a Digital Multi Meter to locate and verify your ignition wires, etc. ( Set to 20 Volts DC ). It is possible that your G.P. has a Brown Accessory2 wire at the ignition switch harness. Hence my mention of the extra relay. The Brown Accedssory2 wire if present might not be necessary during a remote start. ( Check to see if the Heat and AC work properly during a remote start without it connected.) Most DMM's have the ability to read DC voltage, AC voltage and Ohms ( resistance ) with various scales on each. ------------- Soldering is fun! Posted By: wstanulis Date Posted: December 31, 2012 at 12:14 PM I was using my DMM but in the AC this digital meter only has the 200 and 600 volt scale, it does have all of the ohms, DC, etc settings on the meter also but only for the AC setting it only has the 200 and 600 AC settings.
I took out my old DMM which has a 20AC setting and the one whit wire now shows an increase when I increase the RPM, the PURPLE / white wire still did not so I'm using the white .... so the tach I hope is now resolved / hooked up. Just got done hooking up the six wires on the heavy gauge connector, antenna wire is done, next I'm going to hook up the ground, neutral safety switch and brake shutdown. I think I can then place the key in the ignition to try the R/S, is this correct. After testing I will the n hook up the 555GW GM Remote Start Interface Module PassKey III from Directed followed by the hood switch, door locks, horn, trunk release, rear defogger, R/S 4-Pin Satellite harness: You mention that the blue wire will need to be hooked up to the bypass module, what about the three other wires on this connector: Orange (-) 200mA Accessory Output? Purple (-) 200mA Starter Output? Pink (-) 200mA Ignition Output? What should the following wires be connected to? R/S Main Harness 9-Pin connector: Light Green Black (-) 200mA Factory Alarm Disarm Output? GREEN / WHITE (-) 200mA Factory Alarm Rearm Output? Yellow (+) Ignition Out (To Alarm)? WHITE/ Blue (-) Activation Input? Orange (-) 500mA Ground When Locked/Anti-Grind Output? White (+/-) Light Flash Output- Should this one be hooked up to parking lights? Thanks again and I hope you have a great Happy New Year! ------------- Wes Posted By: kreg357 Date Posted: December 31, 2012 at 7:14 PM Orange (-) 200mA Accessory Output? For use with a relay to power the Brown ACC2 wire ( optional ) R/S Main Harness 9-Pin connector: ------------- Soldering is fun! Posted By: wstanulis Date Posted: January 05, 2013 at 12:42 PM Working on R/S today and got the R/S to work.
Now I'm looking to hook up the trunk release, R/S is looking for a (-) signal and supposedly the possible wires I can use from the car is either a "Trunk Release" which is BLACK/ White (+) wire which I guess is no good because I need (-), next is again a Trunk Release" which is Brown (-) at the Keyless entry Module or using the Trunk Pin RED / Black (-)wire at the Keyless Module. So now I'm trying to find this Keyless Module and hook in to either the (-) Brown or (-) RED / Black wire, where is this Keyless module or where else can I find one of these (-) wires. Also, when the doors are looked using the factory remote and then I start the car with the R/S remote the factory alarm goes off. Eventually I will hook up the R/S door locks, will this fix the problem? or do I need to hook up: Light Green Black (-) 200mA Factory Alarm Disarm Output wire and the GREEN / WHITE (-) 200mA Factory Alarm Rearm Output? If I need to hook up these two R/S wires, which wires on the car need to hook up to these two wires? Thank you. ------------- Wes Posted By: kreg357 Date Posted: January 05, 2013 at 1:03 PM Glad to hear the remote starter is working. It's getting cold in the N.E. Here is the Trunk Release info from Ready Remote : If your G.P. didn't come with Factory Keyless Entry ( or you can't find the above mentioned relay / wire ) The G.P.'s Trunk Release is a (+), so you will need a relay to convet the R/S's Trunk Release (-) to the As for the Factory Alarm going off with a remote start, connect the R/S's Disarm Output wire to this wire : ------------- Soldering is fun! Posted By: wstanulis Date Posted: January 05, 2013 at 4:04 PM Thanks for the trunk release relay information brown (-) wire and factory disarm alarm, both work now.
Reference door locks: Hooked up R/S light blue (-) Unlock Output wire to the cars white (-) wire. Then hooked up R/S green (-) Lock Output wire to the cars light blue (-) wire. Did not use tan color car Door Trigger wire. Now with R/S remote, pressing the lock button while the doors are unlocked will not lock the doors, I first have to press the unlock button first followed by the lock button and then the doors will lock. Other then this it appears that the door locks work good. Next problem, using the original factory remote, pressing the lock button two times the horn would beep indicating the doors are locked but using the R/S lock button the horn does not beep. Is there anyway to have the horn beep when locking the doors with the R/S remote? Thanks again for all your help, your making this all possible! ------------- Wes Posted By: wstanulis Date Posted: January 05, 2013 at 5:09 PM I just realized that there is a setting to have the horn beep when locking, I will try to change setting when my son gets home with car.
Still have problem with the door will not lock as noted in my previous post. Thanks. ------------- Wes Posted By: wstanulis Date Posted: January 10, 2013 at 7:55 PM Hello,
We're you able to look in to my question about the problem that I'm having with my door locks noted in my previous emails. Thank you in advance for all of your help! ------------- Wes Posted By: wstanulis Date Posted: January 15, 2013 at 11:04 PM Hello,
Having problems with my door lock and I can't figure it out. I hooked up R/S light blue (-) Unlock Output wire to the cars white (-) wire. Then hooked up R/S green (-) Lock Output wire to the cars light blue (-) wire. I did not use tan color car Door Trigger wire, maybe this is my problem? . Now with R/S remote, pressing the lock button while the doors are unlocked will not lock the doors, I first have to press the unlock button first followed by the lock button and then the doors will lock. What could be the reason why the doors locks are not working correctly, I'm sure I'm doing something wrong but I just can't figure it out. What is the tan color Door Trigger wire for? Am I suppose to use this Door Trigger wire? Would I harm anything with the door locks working as I described above? Thank you. ------------- Wes Posted By: kreg357 Date Posted: January 16, 2013 at 7:02 AM The Door Trigger wire is not needed for the Avital 4103 ( it is not an alarm system or intended No clue as to the lock problem. There are a few tests you could do to try and isolate the problem. First, use your DMM to verify that the 4103 is outputting a (-) Lock pulse every time you press the Second verify the vehicles Lock wire. Do this with the DMM first, then try actuating the vehicles Here is the vehicle ( 2000 Pontiac Grand Prix ) lock info from several sources : Omega Audiovox Ready Remote Bulldog While it shouldn't have changed from the factory default setting, verify that the 4103 is As a last resort, you could try setting the 4103 to double Lock pulse output ( Menu 1, Item 6, opt 2 ) ------------- Soldering is fun! Posted By: wstanulis Date Posted: January 19, 2013 at 11:37 AM Hello,
Sorry for not getting back to you sooner to thank you for your response, you don't know how much help you are giving me, I would not be able to do this without your help...... thank you! Now working on finishing install, hopefully I can finish today, no sport practices today and hoping no other interruptions with my children. Back to doors unlocking problem. I did try the two changes to the settings on the R/S that you suggested but the problem still exists. I don't think that I explained the door lock problem clearly in my previous email but will now try. The following problem exists weather the doors start off being locked or unlocked, the problem still exist. If I first hit the unlock button on the vehicles door and then try to lock the doors with the R/S it will not lock the doors, in this case I first need to hit the unlock button on the R/S followed by the lock button on the R/S to lock the doors. Second thing I realized in trying different combinations of pushing buttons seeing how it may or may not affect the door locks is: If I hit the unlock button on the R/S and then hit the vehcials unlock button and then hit the lock button on the R/S it "will" lock the doors. My conclusion is that if using the unlock button on the vehicles is the last thing I do does not affect weather the R/S lock button will work, it appears that hitting the R/S unlock button anytime prior to trying to lock the doors with the R/S button is what will make it work. This is something my son can live with but still wondering what can cause this and if there is a way to fix this? Will leaving it this way hurt or damage anything? In one of my previous emails I asked about the "Orange (-) 500mA Ground When Locked/Anti-Grind Output" wire and your reply was "Not needed for you application, could be used if Anti-Grind is desire" Question is what is the benefit in using this wire? Would you recommend me hooking up this wire? if yes, what wire does it get hooked up to? Sorry for the long email, hope you understand what I was trying to explain with the door locks. Thanks again and have a great weekend! ------------- Wes |
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