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troubleshooting alarm, remote startPrinted From: the12volt.comForum Name: Car Security and Convenience Forum Discription: Car Alarms, Keyless Entries, Remote Starters, Immobilizer Bypasses, Sensors, Door Locks, Window Modules, Heated Mirrors, Heated Seats, etc. URL: https://www.the12volt.com/installbay/forum_posts.asp?tid=133210 Printed Date: June 18, 2025 at 11:05 PM Topic: troubleshooting alarm, remote start Posted By: airwolf_durango Subject: troubleshooting alarm, remote start Date Posted: January 06, 2013 at 9:19 PM Hi all, Replies: Posted By: smokeman1 Date Posted: January 06, 2013 at 9:51 PM I would say chuck it and get something like Viper, Compustart, Code Alarm, but...in order to get an understanding of what was/how it was installed could you list what wires you have conected from the Air Wolf to what wires on the car. List by harness/ color, ect. It gives someone a picture of what to look at or what you have done. Did you test all of the wires on the car? Did you solder them or use some type of quick connector? ScotchLock?? T-Taps?? Also, what type of bypass is being used? Brand/ Model. Is it loaded with the correct firmware? ------------- When all else fails, Read the Instructions Support the12volt.com Make a Donation Posted By: airwolf_durango Date Posted: January 07, 2013 at 7:15 AM Hi smokeman1, Chuck it? lol I paid $225.00 for this thing in 2004. Has it been proven to be a piece of junk since then? Like I said, I cannot find DesignTech on the internet or the remote starter itself so maybe it is a piece of junk. I did however, test and solder all the connections as far as I know but as I said, this is a first for me. I will list the wires, colors and connections later tonight. Hopefully that will show my error. The bypass is another mystery and it was bought in 2004 as well. I cannt find much on it either. It is a PKU-CH. The instructions do not mention firmware. Do I need to download firmware? Is it true that if the bypass was a problem that the car would crank with the remote starter but just not start? That is what I read anyways online and why I am not consentrating my efforts there for now. Thanks for responding. I'll post more tonight. Jim Posted By: soundnsecurity Date Posted: January 07, 2013 at 9:22 AM if you want an easy test to help you troubleshoot the keypad progaming problem, just take the doorpin wire from the alarm, disconnect it from whatever relay circuit you have built, and connect it straight to ground. this will simulate what the alarm wants to see to program the keypad. if it still doesnt program then either another criteria is missing or the alarm itself is at fault.
different cars work differently when talking about the antitheft bypass. some cars wont do anything at all and others will start and run for a few seconds before it dies. try remote starting the car with the key resting in the key cylinder and see if it starts and runs. if it does then you know your problem is with the bypass. id it still does not start and run then you will be looking at a wiring problem, possibly a missed ignition wire. ------------- Posted By: airwolf_durango Date Posted: January 07, 2013 at 9:48 AM Thank you soundand security for your response. I will try groundind the door trigger wire coming from the remote starter tonight. I was wondering though, instead of disconnecting the wire, if I connect my multimeter red test lead to +12V and the other to the door trigger wire while it is connected and the door opened, if all is well, I should see +12V on my meter and know that that isn't the problem? Do you agree? Good info on the bypass behaving differently for different cars....thanks. I did try what you mentioned already about the key. I left the key in the ignition (all the way in, not resting though), and it still did nothing. I wasn't sure if that was a good way to test so you suggesting it confirms that it is. The car has 2 ignition wires but the second one is powered by a (-) output (while running) from a relay in the remote starter. It powers one side of a coil in a relay I installed for the second ignition. I also used it to power a couple of other coils. It is a -300mA output. I assume that it only works when the car is already started though since it is a ground while running output. Does anything sound wrong with how I did it? It is how the manual said to. Could I have picked the wrong ignition wire as ignition 1, I wonder. How would I know? I have the wiring diagrams. Which ignition wire is the correct one to directly remote start to? Do you know? Thanks again for your response. Jim Posted By: soundnsecurity Date Posted: January 07, 2013 at 10:10 AM my info shows there are two ignition wires which are blue and GREEN/ red. it has a note on the GREEN/ red wire saying it should be a smaller gauge wire. normally when they note the wire size it is because there are more wires that are the same color. so yes it is possible that you have the wrong second ignition wire.
also i dont know if having all those relays powered from the ground when running wire is a good choice because those (-)negative outputs are low current, if you exceed their current output then your relays wont activate properly. the ground when running wire should come on as soon as you activate remote start and stay on for as long as the remote starter is active. that alarm doesnt have a dedicated + 2nd ignition output? thats very strange. also the info sheet is showing that you have two accessory wires in that car. they are BLACK/ orange and green. accessory wires may or may not be needed for the car to start and run but usually they are necessary so the computer doesnt throw a trouble code. accessory wires usually power things like the radio and A/C ------------- Posted By: airwolf_durango Date Posted: January 07, 2013 at 10:33 AM I double checked and yes I wired correctly to ign 1 wire which is blue. The second ign wire is connected to that ground while running output and it is called IGN3 output. I used it to power the relay for the 2nd acc wire and for the transponder bypass. It is 300mA. Do you think that I exceeded that? I don't know what the transponder draws but it said to connect it to the "ground while running" output which as far as I can tell is this IGN3 output. I think the relay coils draw about 100mA each. The system has a dedicated output for the ACC1 so I connected to it directly and to ACC 2 thru the IG3 output to my relay circuit.. I am confused by something though. When you say "as soon as you activate the remote start", what does that mean exactly? See I cannot program the remote, as far as I can tell anyways, so how do I activate the remote start? Does providing power to it activate it? When they say "ground while running", do they mean while the car is started by the remote? I think so but since I cannot get it started, my ACC2 and IGN2 have no power until the car starts via the remote. How can I tell if not having the ACC2 powered during start is causing a double code? Thanks, Jim Posted By: airwolf_durango Date Posted: January 07, 2013 at 12:13 PM I was thinking at lunch: If I turn the key to "run", I will be powering the IGN1 wire, which connects to the remote, which should power the relay in the remote that puts out the "ground while running" 300mA output. Right? Or does "ground while running" only apply to when the car has been started by the remote starter? Jim Posted By: pentavolvo Date Posted: January 07, 2013 at 3:16 PM airwolf_durango wrote: only with remote start Posted By: airwolf_durango Date Posted: January 07, 2013 at 3:28 PM Thanks............. So the sequence is that the remote starts your car and then once started, the unit powers the IGN2 and ACC2 wires. This means when I turn the key to run, i should not see ground at the IGN3 output (ground while running pin)? Jim Posted By: soundnsecurity Date Posted: January 07, 2013 at 5:43 PM so you have the 2nd ignition on the durango powered directly from the negative ground while running output? this will not work because all of the ignition and accessory wires require a positive 12v output to work. power your 2nd ignition with a relay and use the ground while running wire to activate that relay. also on some alarms the actual ground while running wire might be called the "status output"
the ground while running gives you a ground when you activate the remote start through the keypad, it has nothing to do with the normal operation of the car with the key. it is usually used to turn on the bypass during remote start and sometimes to activate a relay for any extra ignition wires that need to be powered. you cant use the ground while running to send power an accessory circuit because they behave differently. ignition circuits will stay live when you have the key turned and during crank. accessory circuits are the same except that they lose power during crank and come back on right after you finished cranking the starter. so that could be another problem with your install because as you have it wired the accessory circuits are staying live through the entire start cycle. some cars are not very sensitive to this mistake and others are very sensitive to how the wires are powered up. this is the reason why the wires have different names because they work differently. do you understand what i just explained or do i need to be more detailed? the reason accessory wires turn off when you crank the starter is to make sure there are no unnecessary devices being powered while the starter is trying to turn the engine over, which might cause the starter to be weak. what i mean by "as soon as you activate the remote start" is exactly what it sounds like. when you press the button on the alarms keypad that controls the remote start function. the ground while running output should not be on during any other time. QUOTE "I am confused by something though. When you say "as soon as you activate the remote start", what does that mean exactly? See I cannot program the remote, as far as I can tell anyways, so how do I activate the remote start? Does providing power to it activate it?" how do you know you have a problem with the remote start if you cant activate the remote start? obviously you have found some way to activate the remote start or else you would not be asking questions about how the car is not starting... am i confusing something here? you said you have one remote that is programmed and the other wont program, so you have a way to activate the remote start through the remote that is programmed. the other keypad that wont program is an entirely different problem from your car not starting. please clear this up for me, can you or can you not activate the remote start? whether the car actually starts or not is not important. if you activate the remote starter and it fails to start and run then it still counts as being activated. ------------- Posted By: airwolf_durango Date Posted: January 07, 2013 at 7:19 PM Hi soundandsecurity, I must have misled you. Let me explain better. The ground while running output is labeled IGN3 out and I am using it to power the coil of the relays that power IGN2 and ACC2. This is what the unit says to do.They will only see power when the IGN3 (-) output from the unit is activated or running . IGN1 and ACC1 are like you said, they receive power in run and crank for IGN 1 only. Does that still sound like it is wrong because this part was pretty straight forward to me. I understand your concern if I was directly powering IGN2 and ACC2 but I am only providing a (-) coil output from the remote start for when it sends it. As far as activating the remote start, taking the second remote out of the picture........it seemed to program ok, meaning that it played a melody when programmed like it said it would but since the second one failed, I assumed that it didn't program either. It didn't give a guide to error messages or sounds like the one way transmitter did so I assumed it didn't program. The bottom line is I don't know how to know if I can activate the remote start. I did put the red wire of my meter on the yellow start wire coming out of the remote and I grounded the black wire while pushing the remote start button and there was no reading so that means to me that when pressing the start button, no power is being sent to the starter. Does that mean it is or isn't activated....I still am not sure because I don't really know if the remote programmed. How could I verify that/ Am I correct is saying the remote does not activate since no power goes to the starter when pressing the remote? By the way I installed a starter interupt relay but even if i messed that up (which I am pretty sure I didn't), the yellow wire coming out of the unit show be +12V when pressing the remote button......correct? Sorry for the confusion and thank you for your patience and time. I just checked all my sense lines (door, hood, brake) and they all seem to be wired correctly. With that I have a question that may show my limited knowledge. The brake wire that shows +12V when depressed is wired to the remote and reads +12V when depressed. However if i put the red meter wire on +12V and the black on the brake wire, it reads +12V (undepressed). Is that because it is grounding thru the brake lamp or something. That wire when not depress goes to the open switch and the other end goes to one side of a grounded brake lamp. Posted By: soundnsecurity Date Posted: January 07, 2013 at 8:10 PM is what you installed only a remote starter? meaning does it have buttons to lock and unlock the car? i am asking because that would be the only thing i can think of as to why you dont know if the remote is programmed or not. is there only one button on the remote?
if the remote is programmed then you should get some kind of response from the alarm. you should hear internal relays clicking on and off, if it has an output for the parking lights then you should see them flash when the alarm is responding to your commands. if you say that the brake wire is reading 12v when the brake is not being pressed then that is definitely a problem. the brake input wire should only see 12v when the brake is pressed. the brake wire is used to shut off the remote starter when you are ready to drive the car after remote start. also if you press the brake while the car is remote started then the car will shut off. if the brake wire is showing 12v all the time then this might be why you cant activate the remote start because the brake wire shuts it off as soon as it activates. with what you said now it make a little more sense the way you have it wired but you still need to change the activation source for your 2nd accessory relay because it doesnt need to be on during cranking like the 2nd ignition and could cause problems. ------------- Posted By: airwolf_durango Date Posted: January 07, 2013 at 8:29 PM I did some more checking after re-reading your previous reply and the instructions say to use the ACC (+) 12V output from the remote start unit to power a relay for the ACC2. I assume they mean to power the coil. I did not do this. Mistakenly i powered the (-) side of the coil for the ACC2 relay with the 'gnd while running' output. After re-reading the 'gnd while running' instructions, it says to use this (-) output to power a relay for IGN2. This wire, it says, is connected internally to the IGN1 relay. I did use it to power IGN2 like it says and i used it to power the transponder bypass, like it says but like I said, and you alluded to, I mistakenly used it to power ACC2. I am not sure why that would cause it not to work but I think it is because the ACC wires are on only in run while the IGN wires are on in run and crank. This is what I believe you where trying to tell me. If this sounds right to you, I will proceed to re-wire the ACC2 wire using ACC1 output to power the (+) side of a ACC2 relay coil. I will gnd the other side of the coil and switch +12V from the battery to ACC2 using the relay pins 30 and 87. Let me know what you think and thank you very much. Ii think we (you) got it! I'll know more tomorrow night. Jim Posted By: airwolf_durango Date Posted: January 07, 2013 at 8:35 PM By the way i forgot to mention that the brake wire does not show +12V all the time. It shows that it is grounded with the brake not being depressed. I would think that it should be floating normally but it seems to be grounded thru the brake lamp. In other words, the circuit looks like this: +12V to the one side of the brake switch (all the time), the other side of the switch (which I spliced into) goes to the brake lamp. The other side of the brake lamp goes to gnd. Depressing the pedal completes the circuit and sends +12V to the unit. What i am saying is that if i put a meter on this wire with the red on a known +12V wire and the black on the wire I spliced into (which to me is floating between the open switch and the lamp)................the meter reads +12V. Posted By: airwolf_durango Date Posted: January 07, 2013 at 9:25 PM As a follow up: I didn't want to wait to see if rewiring the ACC2 relay fixed the problem so i did a quick fix a few moments ago. I then went thru the program method for the remote followed by trying to start the car with it and nothing happened. The door lock and unlock buttons on the remote don't do anything either. i also noticed after making sure my key started the car still after these changes that it started hard and the gages (miles to empty) was going crazy. I unhooked the relay for now. Not sure what happened. Posted By: soundnsecurity Date Posted: January 08, 2013 at 6:14 PM if you are starting to have problems with your car then i would uninstall the alarm and return the wiring to factory. it honestly sounds like the alarm has something wrong with it, the keypads wont program for some reason. it could be a problem with the input circuits like the doorpin or maybe a problem with the antenna circuit. either way now you have car problems, so are you willing to sacrifice your car for a $200 alarm?
------------- Posted By: airwolf_durango Date Posted: January 08, 2013 at 6:36 PM I hear ya but I want to run one more test since I discovered the battery is low on the car. One last question......since this remote start sat around for 9 years, is it likely that the relay contacts within the unit have oxidized or frozen up? Just curious. I may take it apart and poke around some.
Posted By: airwolf_durango Date Posted: January 08, 2013 at 9:05 PM Well I have failed with this task that I took on. I just blew up the unit on the bench poking around. I had run out of options anyways since I bought this 9 years ago from a company that is no longer in business. I learned a lot, that's for sure and I enjoyed the effort... My question to the forum is a recommendation for a remote start that I could put in this ones place that is not too expensive. It should be easy to wire in at this stage. in any case, thanks for all your help. Jim Posted By: smokeman1 Date Posted: January 08, 2013 at 10:17 PM Viper 5301, Python 580, Clifford 1.3x are the ones I use. I have bought several refurb ones from E-Bay and have had no issues. All are 2 way remote start system. I sure other can give you their choices and opinion. I know there are people out there that despise the DEI stuff.
------------- When all else fails, Read the Instructions Support the12volt.com Make a Donation Posted By: airwolf_durango Date Posted: January 09, 2013 at 7:11 AM Thank you Smokeman.........I'll check those out. Posted By: airwolf_durango Date Posted: January 09, 2013 at 8:26 AM smokeman1 wrote: Hi Smokeman1, I check out your recommendations very quickly and noticed that people sell refurbished units of them. What are your feelings and expereince with those, if any? Also what do you mean by DEI? The viper 5301 comes in a DEI version and a couple that don't say that. I'm not sure what that means and my google attempt came back and said it means "of god"....lol Thanks Posted By: soundnsecurity Date Posted: January 09, 2013 at 9:26 AM DEI is the company that makes Viper, Python, and Clifford among other brands. since they are made by the same company they all work and install the same way. the difference is how they look and some might have features or options that the others dont. DEI alarms are pretty installer friendly so its a good choice for someone who is new to alarms. i stopped installing DEI products when i left my last shop to open my own so i have limited hands on experience with their new stuff although i do have a viper 5901 remote start alarm in my own truck and i havent had any major issues with it other than the temperature sensor is stuck on 95 degrees.
------------- Posted By: airwolf_durango Date Posted: January 09, 2013 at 10:05 AM Thanks for the info SoundandSecurity. Have you ever used refurbished stuff?
Posted By: smokeman1 Date Posted: January 09, 2013 at 10:55 AM SoundnSecurity is correct on the units being the the same, but with a different name. I have used several of the refurb units. I have one in my work truck for three years and a Viper 5701 in my daughters 2006 Ford Focus for over three years with no issues. There are on warrenty for these units from the manufactor. You may find some that state non 18 pin. It doen't mean much. Older units have a 7 pin harness. 18 pin units combine three harness into one, and the latest versions have a 24 pin harness. But the all connect the same. These are designed to installed by the pros and install info form DEI will be NONE. There is enough info and help from this site to help you get it installed. ------------- When all else fails, Read the Instructions Support the12volt.com Make a Donation Posted By: airwolf_durango Date Posted: January 09, 2013 at 11:33 AM Ok great, I appreciate the offer to help. I have to imagine that not much is going to change in regards to the relays I installed to isolate my 2nd IGN and 2nd ACC or the door triggers and lock diodes and resistors that i added. Refurbished sounds like a plan.............thanks for the verification. Posted By: airwolf_durango Date Posted: January 09, 2013 at 12:19 PM I got the go ahead from the wife to spend some more money on a refurbished remote start based on the conversations we have had here. If you don't mind, I have a couple of more questions: The transponder bypass that I installed was also bought in 2004 and is not supported by anyone so I am going to junk that as well. The car is a 2002 Durango 4.7 with the grey keys. Any suggestions for a particular new bypass and thoughts on getting a keyless one over one that requires a key. Also something that keeps weighing on my mind is that I cannot get verification if this car was made with a factory alarm. There is an arm/disarm wire and by using different resistors it could be used to lock and unlock if there was an alarm. I don't see an alarm box under the dash nor does it test as if there is one. I can lock the door with the factory remote and open it with a key or reach in the window and open it. I called Dodge but have not gotten a response. I assume that all the harnesses have the disarm/arm wire but all cars don't have the alarm. Any help on further verification of this. Thank you Posted By: smokeman1 Date Posted: January 09, 2013 at 3:20 PM Roll down the drivers window, close the door and lock it with the factory keyfob if you have one. Wait a few min, reach in the open window and open the door. If the horn honks and lights flash, factroy alarm. If nothing, I would try it all again and wait for 5 min or so. Bypass, I would look at Fortin INT-SL+. One key needed for programming, no key required for operation. ------------- When all else fails, Read the Instructions Support the12volt.com Make a Donation Posted By: airwolf_durango Date Posted: January 09, 2013 at 3:38 PM Ok thanks...........I'll try it again and wait like you said. I'll check out that bypass as well..thanks. Posted By: airwolf_durango Date Posted: January 09, 2013 at 5:41 PM smokeman1 wrote: Ok, i tried it like you said and no alarm.......but.........i finally got a hold of our dodge dealer and they plugged in the VIN and it came back that it has a forced entry alarm but not an alarm for breaking a window. I don't know how to verify that and I am assuming that the method you described simulates a broken window. If I didn't fry the unit I have, I could have just unhooked the door lock/unlock trigger and added the arm/disarm trigger with the appropriate resistors. Maybe I can have someone check th eunit to see what fried. It could be just a protection diode. So with this knew info, and keep in mind the people at Dodge admittingly don't even understand what a forced entry alarm is so I am still skeptical, would the car not being disarmed cause the lack of remote to unit communication and activation I was experiencing? I would imagine so and it kind of explains why I couldn't unlock the doors with the remote since they are part of the arm/disarm trigger. Thoughts? Posted By: smokeman1 Date Posted: January 09, 2013 at 5:48 PM I would go with you don't have an alarm
------------- When all else fails, Read the Instructions Support the12volt.com Make a Donation Posted By: airwolf_durango Date Posted: January 09, 2013 at 6:34 PM smokeman1 wrote: This issue has plaqued me from the start and now I have Dodge confirming that is has one and yet no sign of one...except that the car has an arm/disarm wire which also triggers the locks. There has to be a way to test that wire (ground it) to see if something happens. It is a negative trigger. Frustrating. Posted By: soundnsecurity Date Posted: January 09, 2013 at 8:22 PM whether or not your car has a factory alarm is not really a big issue. if the arm and disarm wires also control the locks then just use those wires as the locks. if you in fact do have a factory alarm then it will arm and disarm with the new alarm.
if you decide not to do that and just use the other lock wires then its still not a big deal but you might accidentally set off the factory alarm occasionally if you lock the car with the factory keypad and then unlock the car with the new alarm keypad. still not really a big deal. its not like the alarm wont work at all if you happen to not use the factory disarm. ------------- Posted By: smokeman1 Date Posted: January 09, 2013 at 8:29 PM The following is from the DB-ALL bypass programming instructions: Roll down the drivers side window...close the door...lock the car with either the lock button on the OEM key fob or use the key in the door lock...WAIT 30 seconds...when the red light on the cluster starts to blink, open the door from the inside... Alarm triggered? Vehicle is equipped with a OEM Alarm...OR...Alarm not triggered. Vehicle is not equipped with an OEM alarm. Maybe look in the owners manual that came with the car for information on the alarm as to what and how it works or what should happed if the OEM alarm is triggered. Most of the OEM alarm I have delt with would flash the lights and blast the horn on and off. If those things are not happening, most likely you do not have a OEM alarm. Just because someone on the phone says you have an alarm in a vehicle does not mean it is correct. ------------- When all else fails, Read the Instructions Support the12volt.com Make a Donation Posted By: airwolf_durango Date Posted: January 09, 2013 at 8:41 PM soundnsecurity wrote: So you are saying that a remote start will start a car with the factory alarm armed? That throws me a little but regardless, like you said, it can't hurt to just use the arm/disarm wire to lock and unlock. Posted By: airwolf_durango Date Posted: January 09, 2013 at 8:48 PM smokeman1 wrote: I hear ya but a couple of things don't add up. For one the dealer used my VIN to verify that it has an alarm and secondly my wife said that a couple of times, after dropping off the car to be serviced, she 'scolded' for locking the door with the remote but only leaving them the key. So even though i cannpt replicate that alarm, it just adds to my doubts and makes me wonder if maybe when I programmed the transponder bypass that I messed with it.........or something. All aside, if it doesn't matter then it is a none issue but like i said in the post above, that seems odd to me. I don't doubt anyone here, it just seems odd. This remote is a security system as well. Posted By: soundnsecurity Date Posted: January 11, 2013 at 12:55 PM what i mean by it not mattering if you have a factory alarm or not is because once you have the new alarm installed then you wont be arming the factory alarm anymore because you wont be using the factory keypad anymore. otherwise you still should be able to disarm the factory alarm with the key. by turning the key either in the door lock cylinder or the ignition switch, one or the other will disarm the factory alarm.
still, to be safe, just use the factory arm and disarm wires instead of the normal lock and unlock and it will eliminate any possibility of the two alarms conflicting with each other. its not as hard as you are making it out to be. ------------- Posted By: airwolf_durango Date Posted: January 11, 2013 at 1:21 PM soundnsecurity wrote: Thank you for the clarification. I plan on trying that tonight. As i said earlier, I thought I blew up the unit poking around on the bench but it seems that I was able to repair what I did. This gave me a chance to bench test the onboard relays and the ground while running out. They all work just as they should. This doesn't mean the RF portion of the board was ever good or if the remote itself is good but at least it tells me the relays were not stuck because of sitting around for 9 years. I have a test to see if the remote is transmitting, which I will try for ha-ha's if I cannot talk to the brain unit after wiring the arm/disarm. I'm told that if I connect my current meter in circuit with the remote battery and press the button and it reads a draw, that the remote in hand is trying to communicate but the board isn't responding. This kind of stuff interest me and is my motivation more so than saving money. I'll let you know how wiring the arm/disarm works when i try it and thanks again for all your help. Posted By: airwolf_durango Date Posted: January 12, 2013 at 9:33 PM In spite of checking my wiring, i found out today that i managed to connect my door pin switches to (+) input into the remote brain. SInce the door pin switch grounds when the door is opened and the procedure for programming the remote to the brain requires an open door, it wouldn;t sync up. i swapped the wires and it programmed and subsequently started! Exciting stuff........ The transponder bypass from 9 years ago does not work though so in order to start it and keep it running, a key has to be in the ignition. i'll have to order a new one. I have a new problem though. i can only lock the doors with the remote. I cannot unlock them so the alarm is getting activated when i open the door after unlocking it with the factory remote. i'm confused and will put off diagnosing the problem until I put a new transponder bypass in. i am hoping that it has something to do with it. If anyone has any thoughts, i'd appreciate them. Could the lack of a transponder bypass affect the unlock. This car has one wire, triggered thru 2 parallel resisitors to seperate relays where the coils are controlled by the ground signal made from the remote brain when you press the lock/unlock key. i has only one key. All in all today was a success. Posted By: airwolf_durango Date Posted: January 12, 2013 at 11:25 PM smokeman1 wrote: Hi smokeman1, I was checking into the INT-SL+ and was wondering why it 'Allows control of electric door locks, factory alarm, parking lights, heated seats, tachometer output, etc '? Do I have to rewire all I did or is this just an option? Curious as to why it is an option to have the bypass unit control door locks, etc? Thanks |
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