kib bypass module

If we use the KIB bypass module, can we start the car with a transponderLESS key?
It just seem possible.  If it is, I can remove the chip and put in the bypass module for remote start and also use non transponder key.

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Dont Drive and Text, but
Do Text Then Drive

The KIB type transponder bypass module is usually connected and controlled ( turned on ) by the R/S system. 

While you could set it up to be "turned on" by a toggle switch ( hopefully well hidden ) and use a plain key to start the vehicle, it would compromise vehicle theft security a tad bit.

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Soldering is fun!

That's the R/S status output correct?

kreg357 wrote:

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 controlled ( turned on ) by the R/S system. 

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How about removing the whole chip, glue/tape/hide to the cyclinder?  Eliminate the whole module thing.

So if i decide to try the KIB with toggle it should look like this.

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Dont Drive and Text, but
Do Text Then Drive

No, not exactly.  PM sent.

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Soldering is fun!

Thanks for the PM Kreg.  I had taken a different route.

I have started working on the Rogue today. 
2010 Rogue w/ Remote Ready 24921(older) w/ N20402 bypass

The key was too large to fit in the Module.  I took the Tchip off of the key and put in the Module.  the loops was bigger than the black transponder plastic.
I'd hook up, for now, only the requirement
12V+
IGN
STR
BRKE
STATUS OUTPUT

It wouldn't even crank.  Instead of playing with the positioning of the TC and the loops as recommended trouble shoot, I just got rid of the bypas module all together. After I remove all the panel below, I realized the TC fits perfectly in this groove.  I will have pictorial once everything is done.  I think this is more secure than the KIB.  Both keys works.

The remote starts and stops and starts for 10sec and repeat itself.  I think I will have to install the TAC wire (per manual trouble shoot). That will be my project tomorrow.

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Dont Drive and Text, but
Do Text Then Drive

I will start a pictorial as I go:

Cheap $20 Ready Remote RS on 2010 Rogue, Bypass ModuleLESS

1st I'd remove the TC from the key

It should look like this

Let's beginn taking thing apart.
Not nessesary but I took the side apart. No screw, just pry it open.
  

Only one hex screw holding the bottom cover/panel before pulling from the bottom up.

Next you can move the metal piece or leave it tacked so you know where best to put the RS

Now remove 3 phillips screw on the bottom of the steering
Sorry no picture, but it's there.

You can now separate the top and the bottom exposing the IGN harness. picture not mine

Here is the best part.  If you don't want to spend $50 on DBALL or PK09 or don't feel secure with leaving your KIB.
Use the TC removed from key and put/glue/tape it here.  Once you put everything back, it's also support by the cylinder trim.
 Fit perfectly no looping hassle, no worry about another module. As is, hard to find spot to put this RS.

Here's the brake

to be continue.......

tac wire.
:-( this RS has no keyless. Wachu expect from a $20 RS.

 

 

 

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Dont Drive and Text, but
Do Text Then Drive

Oh I just realized I can't edit my own post here.
That mean I can't add on progress but continues thread.

Anyway. Can I get tac wire from inside or no. To many to choose which is easy for the Rogue? If it still shut down after tac wire, must lacking the other accessories.

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Dont Drive and Text, but
Do Text Then Drive

I can't believe you are doing this install like this and hacking a key. With the proper bypass module you would have been done already. From the picture it looks like you popped off the tumbler??? I've never seen one that starts with just a key. They usually keep a key in their pocket and then just start the car with no key needed in the ignition cylinder. Then there is a key that slips out and starts the car manually if the battery in the keyfob dies. Now if your car is like that. YOU HAVE ALOT MORE WORK TO DO!!! The car will ONLY look for that transponder that you have permanently mounted() if you power up the TWO keysense wires... That means another relay, 2 diodes, and obviously more wiring. You are already saving alot of money by doing this yourself, why wouldn't you want this done the right way with the proper bypass module that on Ebay sells for less then $60. You know by doing the install the way you are doing it, there will be no way to stop someone from jumping in your car and just driving away! Well you can hook up the remote starters hood pin wire to each door pin switch wire and have the car shut down every time you get in the car... Thats 4 more diodes and of course more wiring. With this particular car, doing the install the CHEAP way should not even be an option. With the bypass module you will be able to unlock the doors and drive away. If the doors aren't unlocked or you leave the doors unlocked and somebody opens the door(thief) the car would then shut down...nice and secure!
If you still want to continue in this route, I will still help you. I'll tell you all about the keysense wires(which is listed in the EVO-Can installation manual) and I will list the door pin wires so your car doesn't get stolen and your insurance not cover it because you permanently mounted that transponder chip. Don't get me wrong even with the door pin shut down wire, if someone manages to steal your car and they recover it and find that the cars immobilizer was permanently bypassed you will not be covered.

I appreciate your concern but this is not the smart key sense version. To me this is safer than having the whole key in the box. Thief could look or yank the box under the dash and grab the key and start if they want to. My way, they will have to have a key. Put yourself in a thieves's shoes, how many thief gonna know which car have which bypass module (key less, kib or my way).

I started this because I had cheap RS and cheap KIB(didn't work) already in my hand. Proving still possible to get one done for this late model. Putting this on my brothers car.

For me I have the high end 2way bulldog deluxe with pljx

Anyway, it starts for 10sec and shut down. I need to install the tach. Relay from eBay is on the way for accessories hook up. I hope its just tach and start up once installed.

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Dont Drive and Text, but
Do Text Then Drive

Tach is at any Fuel injector the uncommon wire. There is not tach listed for inside the car.

just got time to look for the tach wire. So many wires. Could someone provide a picture of where I should be looking? Tomorrow suppose to be warm enuff for me to work on it.

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Dont Drive and Text, but
Do Text Then Drive

I think I got it


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Dont Drive and Text, but
Do Text Then Drive

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Dont Drive and Text, but
Do Text Then Drive

Can this be the plug? I locate it under where I'd circled red in pic above?


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Dont Drive and Text, but
Do Text Then Drive

ok still havent had the relay and tach install.
today after plowing the snow and was going to move the rogue onto the driveway and i tested the remote start. 1st one cranked, 2nd one actually start for sometime until i put the key in. after turn off, tried again but back to step one. is this tach symptom?

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Dont Drive and Text, but
Do Text Then Drive

What happens when you remote start it? Does it crank and not start or not crank at all? Any lights on in the dash?

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Kenny
Owner / Technician
KKD Garage LLC
Albany, NY 12205

i thought id mentioned it already. must be the other thread.
anywa, it would crank on first try and run for bout 10min 2nd time and repeat itself.

im thinkin tac wires need install and learn.

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Dont Drive and Text, but
Do Text Then Drive

i meant 10sec not min.


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Dont Drive and Text, but
Do Text Then Drive

Yea, sounds like tach. Do you see any lights flashing on the dash after it doesn't start?

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Kenny
Owner / Technician
KKD Garage LLC
Albany, NY 12205

Sorry, I just did the basic install and once I got it working properly I was gonna do the rest like doors, lights and heater/ac.

offrodzj wrote:

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Yea, sounds like tach. Do you see any lights flashing on the dash after it doesn't start?

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Ok, finally got around to take a better look again.
What I was looking at(pictured above) was the ignition coil.
Look at the diagram again, the fuel injector it's above the coil (picture below)
I think this is it but need 2nd opinion.  I dont want to hook up wrong wire for TACH as people said, it could ruin your BCM and what.

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Dont Drive and Text, but
Do Text Then Drive

The tach signal is an input so it is VERY rare for it to ever cause damage to anything in the vehicle (especially since you'll know right away if it is wrong). Pick 2 of the fuel injectors and pull back the covering enough to get a good look at the wires on each. They should have one common colored wire and one uncommon colored wire. Connect to either of the uncommon wires. That will give you your tach signal. It's tough to judge by the picture, but it looks like it MIGHT be the wires closest to the camera (but check to be sure)

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Kenny
Owner / Technician
KKD Garage LLC
Albany, NY 12205

Sorry for the stupid question but what does it means by common and uncommon wire?  Like common ground?  Connect to one that is not common(-)?

or

Common wires as they each share same color wire?

I think all of them has Brown wire.

offroadzj wrote:

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The tach signal is an input so it is VERY rare for it to ever cause damage to anything in the vehicle (especially since you'll know right away if it is wrong). Pick 2 of the fuel injectors and pull back the covering enough to get a good look at the wires on each. They should have one common colored wire and one uncommon colored wire. Connect to either of the uncommon wires. That will give you your tach signal. It's tough to judge by the picture, but it looks like it MIGHT be the wires closest to the camera (but check to be sure)

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Dont Drive and Text, but
Do Text Then Drive

Common and uncommon wire colors. If they all have a brown wire then pick one of the 4 wires that isn't brown.

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Kenny
Owner / Technician
KKD Garage LLC
Albany, NY 12205