transponder bypass

Hi all,

I have installed my first remote start and have not been succesful programming the transponder bypass for my 2002 Durango. The bypass i bought (back in 2004) is the type that wraps around the key cylinder after you program it by holding up to the cylinder while powering the IGN1 wire.

My question is, after looking for a replacement, why do they sell these data to data type bypasses when all you need is the wire type like I bought? Do they not work and is that why mine didn't program? Why would you want to wire the door locks, etc to the bypass? i have already completed all that wiring with appropriate relays and resisors and diodes without the bypass.

Should i just buy another coil type or do I need one of these data types. I'm new at this so forgive my ignorance.

Thanks, Jim

All in all I need something and am looking for some advice

Do you know what model of bypass you have? Bypass units that wrap around the key cylinder are tricky to get right sometimes. And some can only be programmed correctly once and otherwise it won't work again.
The newer data modules provide direct integration with the vehicle's anti-theft system which is more reliable and much simpler to connect than the type you are referring to.




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I'm at work but I think it is a PKU-CH. It is old and I remember readin something somewhere about only getting one shot with programming it so that very well could be the issue considering that the first attempt didn't seem to go well in regards to what was suppose to happen with the security light.

But it is the direct integration of the newer ones that confuse me. My remote start wires to the arm/disarm wire which also controls the lock, unlock. They also offer many other interfaces that i have already done with the remote start. Why?

I ssume they are optional.

Thanks, Jim

Some modules do controls other functions such as door locks, parking lights, factory alarm control, trunk pop, etc. These features are dependent on the year and model of vehicle as they won't work on every vehicle.

Depending on the vehicle, a data module provides a quicker way to do locks and other features, as well the immobilizer bypass.

Some modules only control the immobilizer bypass thru data.

One of the benefits to using a data module is, if it doesn't program the first time, you can usually try again until it works.

I recommend the Fortin INT-SL+ for that vehicle. It only controls the immobilizer via data. It only requires about 4 wires and programs right away with more reliability than the ring around the key cylinder. And if it doesn't program correctly the first time, you can keep trying until it does. It's not a one-time use module.





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shortcircuit161 wrote:

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Some modules do controls other functions such as door locks, parking lights, factory alarm control, trunk pop, etc. These features are dependent on the year and model of vehicle as they won't work on every vehicle.

Depending on the vehicle, a data module provides a quicker way to do locks and other features, as well the immobilizer bypass.

Some modules only control the immobilizer bypass thru data.

One of the benefits to using a data module is, if it doesn't program the first time, you can usually try again until it works.

I recommend the Fortin INT-SL+ for that vehicle. It only controls the immobilizer via data. It only requires about 4 wires and programs right away with more reliability than the ring around the key cylinder. And if it doesn't program correctly the first time, you can keep trying until it does. It's not a one-time use module.

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Thank you, that makes sense. I was actually looking at the INT-SL+ as it was recommended from another member. It does have the other features such as door status, factory alarm, tach, etc but i have alread done all that, so would you just ignore that part of it?

I'm curious how it handles the requirements for relays and diodes and resistors such as I had to do for the door locks, door status, etc? Do you have to load vehicle specific firmware? If so, what is your advice, should I keep it wired to the remote or use the features that come with the bypass unit?

Thanks for your help.

The INT-SL+ doesn't control door locks or any other convenience features on that model year. It only controls the immobilizer.

All the other features would have to be wired directly from the remote starter to the truck (you've already taken care of that).

Since this is a module that can be used on many different vehicles, the picture on the install manual will show additional wires (locks, trunk release, etc), but those are not used on your vehicle and can be ignored.

Here is a link to the manual -
https://ifar.ca/en/download/3966/int-sl%2B_installation_guide.rev-20120308.pdf

You would follow Install Type 6 on the right side "without datalink". The only wires needed are the yellow, yellow/black, pink, blue and purple.   All other wires aren't needed in your setup.

The firmware is already preloaded so there is no need to flash it to your vehicle. Just wire it up, program it and you're done.   

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shortcircuit161 wrote:

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The INT-SL+ doesn't control door locks or any other convenience features on that model year. It only controls the immobilizer.

All the other features would have to be wired directly from the remote starter to the truck (you've already taken care of that).

Since this is a module that can be used on many different vehicles, the picture on the install manual will show additional wires (locks, trunk release, etc), but those are not used on your vehicle and can be ignored.

Here is a link to the manual -
https://ifar.ca/en/download/3966/int-sl%2B_installation_guide.rev-20120308.pdf

You would follow Install Type 6 on the right side "without datalink". The only wires needed are the yellow, yellow/black, pink, blue and purple.   All other wires aren't needed in your setup.

The firmware is already preloaded so there is no need to flash it to your vehicle. Just wire it up, program it and you're done.   

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Thanks...........

One more question (sorry to be a pain): I searched for this product and found it on Amazon in a couple of places with different labels and different names but all saying INT-SL+.

Fortin lists approved distributors but they want quite a bit more than Amazon. Could they be older versions or something like that on Amazon? Are all INT-SL+ the same? It doesn't look like they are. I'm thinking it the version.

Thanks again

They should all be the same as long as it's INT-SL+ and not the older INT-SL.

They either have the name Fortin or Crimestopper on the package. The ones I buy from my distributor say Crimestopper on the bag.



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ok thanks......these say crimestopper and I did notice that some say INT-SL but are advertised as INT-SL+

So i called Fortin after ordering the INT-SL+ because the wiring diagram #6 (without Datalink) shows other connections.Anyways, they said that i have to connect the door trigger, lock and unlock, (-) while running) wires 'from the remote start unit" to the INT-SL+.

This means that I disconnect the relays and resistors and diodes that I wired already. Now I am confused because they said I have to do this. Keep in mind that I have not been successful with the ability to unlock the car with the remote. I can unlock it with the factory remote.

Thoughts? Could it be that this car has to be wired to the INT-SL+ this way?

Sorry for the confusion

Think I agree with Frank on this one ( even if Fortin Tech Support said differently ).  The Fortin INT-SL+ install
guide is listed as only doing the transponder bypass function for the 2001 - 2003 Durango.  The install guide
confirms this "transponder bypass" only capability.  Install Connection Diagram 6 - without Data-Link shows
more wires than necessary for your Durango install.  You would only need to connect the following :
INT-SL+    R/S Durango
Pink   Light GREEN/ Black  cut   car side
Blue         IGN3 GWR
Purple          Purple / YELLOW
Yellow          Light GREEN/ Black   cut    car side
Yellow/Black Light GREEN/ Black   cut    ign switch side

Plus the Plan 2 connections :
Red to +12V constant
Black to chassis ground

The current connections from the R/S to the Durango for locks, etc stay in place.

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Soldering is fun!

I hear ya........I tried to explain that the vehicle fit guide only listed transponder and tach but either he did not understand or...........

It would be nice to have just connected from the remote to the bypass for doors, trigger, etc.. Much cleaner.

In order to get locks control also, you will need a different module altogether. The relay setup for the door locks is fairly simple.

If you preferred a module that goes it all, you can get an iDatalink ADS-DL or ADS-ALCA. There are a bit more pricey and require a dealer account to flash them for your vehicle.

Also, I am not a big fan of Xpresskit modules, but you can get a DB-ALL that can also control the door locks.

You can also look thru the door locks section on this forum for info on setting up 2 relays with resistors for your locks if you wish to use the INT-SL+ and wire up the locks yourself.

I've been installing for years and this one is not that tough if you do your research and take your time.

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I agree. When i said it would be nice, I meant that i can see that doing newer cars with newer remote starts have a different approach that looks much easier. I actually did wire up the door locks using relays and resistors. My only issue there is it seems to be controversial if the car has a factory alarm so i am not sure if I should use the arm/disarm for the door locks or the door lock/unlock wire. It uses different resistors. It's a long story but in short the dealer says my VIN says I have a forced entry factory alarm and I have no indication of one but I am not sure if there is a test for that type. Nothing i do sets it off.

So I'm good but you can see, being new at this how conflicting the information coming in can be, with the alarm and now with Fortin themselves, which has made this tougher than it should have been....for me anyway.

Thanks for your help.

I agree a lot of newer cars are simpler since the bypass module controls half to most of everything else leaving only a handful of connections from the remote starter itself. Your vehicle is fairly simple though in my opinion.

To check for a factory alarm (if you haven't tried this already) is lower the driver's side window and press lock twice on the factory fob OR press the lock button inside the door with the door open, then close the door.

Wait 2 minutes and then, (without using the factory keyfob or the door lock switch), unlock the door from the inside of the door and open the door.

If the horn starts to blare, you have a factory alarm. Otherwise you don't. If you do have a factory alarm, you would use the arm/disarm wires to control the factory alarm which also controls the door locks.

If you have the door locks already connected and they work ok without sounding any alarms when you unlock and enter the vehicle, you can leave it connected the way it is.

I understand the confusion between the dealer, Fortin and all the wiring involved. I personally feel that learning thru experience from others that do it on a daily basis is the best way to learn and get it done. The VIN may show it has the factory alarm but it could have been removed at some point. The dealer wouldn't know it unless they tested it (assuming they know how).

Good Luck!



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Yes I agree completely that there is no substitution for experience here. I learned sooo much from this first install that car wiring doesn't scare me in the least anymore. Looking back, yes, it is simple, but that came at a price (a lot of time and research to learn), but it was a labor of love because I enjoy this type of stuff.

I tried testing for the fact alarm as you said already and no horn went off. The thing is I cannot unlock the doors with the remote. This was the last thing that happened along with the realization that the coil wrap bypass didn't work so I figured I would fix the transponder bypass problem first and then troubleshoot the unlock. So once the INT-SL+ comes in, I will install it and see what happens. I'm hoping maybe the lack of a bypass and the unlock not working are related.

By the way, i called and talked to another Fortin tech support guy and he confirmed that for this car, only bypassing is available. I didn't doubt you, it's just my nature to resolve all questions in my mind before continuing forward.

Thanks again for your help 

I was wondering if anyone here understands how a remote start used on on a car with one lock/unlock wire puts out seperate (-) trigger out each for lock and unlock and knows which relay to power when the hand remote only has one button both for lock and unlock. Does it know if the vehicle is locked or unlocked and therefore does the opposite when you press the one button? If so, how does it know the status.

I'm just curious and i am hoping that any help here will help me troubleshoot my inability to unlock the door with the remote.

Thanks, Jim

You might be asking two questions. 

The R/S system outputs a Door Lock command pulse on one wire and the Unlock command pulse
on another wire.  The 451M module ( or two SPDT relays with resistors ) accepts these two inputs
and they control two separate relays.  The outputs from the two relays are connected to the one
vehicle door lock wire.

Can't speak for your R/S system ( never used that brand ) but with Bulldog Security and Compustar
systems, it is just a simple flip-flop arrangement.  The R/S brain keeps track of what it did last and
does the opposite on the next button press.  It does not pay attention to the factory FOB's or the
vehicle's current condition.  i.e.  If you used the aftermarket FOB and it unlocked the doors, then when
you exited the car, you used the cars' door lock button to lock the car, the next time you you used the
aftermarket FOB's button it would be a lock command, which wouldn't do much because the car
was already locked.   I have used those systems and you learn to pay attention to the Parking Light
flashes ( and possibly horn beeps ) and end up exclusively using the aftermarket FOB's.

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Soldering is fun!

Ok thanks...I figured it was something like that. So what you are saying is that I may have to hit the button twice at times because of what it did last and what I may have done in between such as lock the door with the lock button.

With that info understood, it makes me think that if hitting it twice doesn't work then maybe the resistor value is off. I say this because when I installed it, it was low but I paid no attention to it figuring the value could be +/- 5%.

Do you happen to know how sensitive those resistance values are? I'll have to check the actual numbers when I get a chance to work on this during the weekend.

Thanks for the explanation.........Jim

Here is the info from DEI :
Lock is negative trigger thru a 820 ohm resistor. Unlock is negative trigger thru a 330 ohm resistor. MUST use relays.

With those values, I would try to stay within 2%.  I actually measure the resistors and pick the one closest to the listed
value.   Luckily, I save the unused resistors from the DEI 451M kits and those exact values are included.  You are looking for :
330 = Orange, Orange, Brown, Gold
820 = Gray, Red, Brown, Gold

You can also make your own by combining a 180 ohm and a 150 ohm in series ( 330 ohms ).

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Soldering is fun!

If I remember correctly, the unlock was down around 285 ohms. I'll recheck it this weekend when I can get to work on it. The other thing I was thinking last night is that the connection to that resistor may be loose. They came with these crimps on the end and at one point it felt like it broke loose but since it was all taped up I just measured the resistance to see if there still was a connection. The thing is that needs to be a really good connection to ground which is what the relays do so I'll have to check that out too which should be easy enough.

Thanks for the info