2011 suzuki kizashi viper 5704 issues

I installed a customer supplied viper 5704 along with an ads-al-ca into his Suzuki kizashi. I hoping someone has some Insite in what else I can do. Here's my problem the car starts 90% of the time. The problem I see is the way idata has you set up the system your using the starter output to power up the brake lights for the car to start. I've tried tach and the car won't run at all. Add of right now I have it on virtual tach set to 4 seconds. This way it keeps the brakes on for 4 seconds. Most of the time it works but on cold mornings the car takes a little longer to start and the 4 seconds isn't enough because there is a delay from when the brake lights come on the when the car starts. This delay causes the issue if the car has started to crank then the brake lights shut off the car stops cranking and puts the car in a state to where neither the factory fob or the viper for can be used ,also keep the ingition on the customer has to use the key in the door then press the start button to turn off the ingition.

Sorry for the ramble just trying to give as much info as possible

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If i Can't Install it    I Don't need it   Joe

On the iDatalink Tech Forums, other installers have had issues with timing on this car. The crank signal has to be sent just right while the brake wire is being energized otherwise it won't work.

Go W2W with all connections from the Viper (including tach) to the module. Set the Viper for tach setting and relearn tach and extend the crank time to the highest time.

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I'm w2w with all my connections including tach relearned it 3 times different RPMs doesn't even try too crank when set to tach. I set it to virtual and the longest crank time 4 seconds still having these issues

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If i Can't Install it    I Don't need it   Joe

If you have access to the iDatalink support forums, I would post on there to see what they suggest.

I can only suggest to double check the connections to the vehicle, ensuring the diodes are installed and in the right direction. I've not worked the vehicle personally. But others that have (including iDatalink tech support), states it's a timing issue and voltage sensing is not recommended.

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I was on the phone with tech support and they suggested I check the firmware make sure there was no updates which I did and there were none. They also suggested relearning tach to a higher rpm which I did. I'm going to call them back again. Was hoping someone on here had a suggestion I could try.

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If i Can't Install it    I Don't need it   Joe

did you try engine checking off ?

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Advanced

I've never done one of these cars, but what about trying a short Wait to start delay. That would give the ignition time to fully energize the circuit & activate the BCM which could possibly allow the brake timing to be better.

It's probably a complete shot in the dark, but it might be worth a try.

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Kenny
Owner / Technician
KKD Garage LLC
Albany, NY 12205

I haven't shut the engine checking off for 2 reasons
1. I don't like doing it
2. I don't think it will help because it will still only output the 4 second crank. Its the car that stops cranking when the brake lights shut off.

I could try the wait to start see what it does.

I have a bit writer coming to see of there's any options that will help me out. Been meaning to buy one anyway this just have me the nudge to buy. I do enough starters to justify it.

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If i Can't Install it    I Don't need it   Joe

I understand what you mean by not a fan of turning off engine checking but this isn't the usual install. I am by no means a pts expert but just stating what worked for me on the last kizashi. Between the bypass and the r/s we are only holding the brake and pushing the pts button which then means the car is going to do what it always does as long as it sees the key.

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Advanced

how did you set it up ? 4 second crank and engine checking off ?

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If i Can't Install it    I Don't need it   Joe

There are several cars from iDatalink where they have the remote starter's starter output energizing the brake lights---Nissan, Mazda CX5, and apparently your Suzuki too.

I've had nothing but problems with all of these setups. Did one CX-5, it came back, ADS had a firmware update that fixed it.

The Nissans, half of them seem to work right, half of them don't. Sometimes you'll get lucky by putting the unit in voltage sensing with maximum crank time, but that doesn't always work.

I can only think of three solutions:

1: Call manufacturer and insist on getting more help, including a custom firmware if necessary.

2: See if another bypass manufacturer makes something that the module controls the car's brake, rather than the remote starter.

3: If you're good with relays, maybe try a setup with latching relay(s), timer relay or something....I'm thinking maybe have your Viper ground-when-running output activate a timer relay to trigger the brake lights for about 7-10 seconds or so.

OK if you can learn how to make a latching relay setup maybe try this:

1: Remote starter's Ignition 2 output goes THROUGH a latching relay setup, and then to the car's brake lights.

2: Make the relay setup so that it interrupts that Ignition 2 wire AFTER remote starting, that way the brake lights will go out so the remote starter won't get a shutdown signal.

3: You'll have to experiment with what signal you'll use to latch your relay to kill the Ignition 2. Doesn't Viper have a defroster output that comes on a few seconds after remote start? That might do it for you.

Or hey another idea.....doesn't that Viper have programmable AUX outputs? Do you have a Bitwriter? Maybe program one of those outputs for 10 seconds during start, be sure to "link" it to BOTH customer remotes, and use that to trigger a relay to turn on the brake lights?

Thanks Chris I should bee getting the car back this week. So I can try some of those. I have a bit writer ordered should be here today

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If i Can't Install it    I Don't need it   Joe