viper 5101 with xk06 on 03 silverado dies

I have searched high and low and maybe I am overlooking something. have installed many remote starts and thought this one would be easy but the 5101 is a little more advanced than others I have done.

I have a few issues and after 5 hours, normally 2 to 3, I am trying again tomorrow night. I have received great info before so I am wishing for some help.

I am using the XK06 and the diagram says there is a 6 pin green or black plug with a white and RED / white wire and the vehicle has a 2 wire white plug and a 3 wire black plug with a RED / white. I usually use a dball and am tempted to cut my losses and use the dball instead of the XK06 since the harnesses aren't like the instructions for the XK06 and I don't want to cut wires if the wire colors and pins don't match.

I believe the XK06 only bypasses for remote start so do I need to go through the door for keyless or can I find the lock unlock wires without resistors and diodes? If so I am using the dball and cutting my losses. Will the dball control the locks if I use it instead of the XK06?

Normally there are two thicker red wires on the dei remote starts and the 5101 is different. Which wires need constant 12v on the 03 Silverado diesel? I believe I got it out of manual mode and I hear the clicks but ignition doesn't even get voltage when I remote start? I know the smaller red needs 12v but which of the thicker gauge wires need 12v on this vehicle?

Thank you for your time and help in advance

Adam Tish

The XKO6 is only for transponder override ,if you want to controll the door locks you have to use a combo module like DBALL or the XKO9 . That vehicle should be a pretty straight forward install.

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triniforever

If you get an ADS-DL or ADS-ALCA from idatalink (way more reliable IMO than any DEI bypass anyway), it will cover immobilizer bypass and door locks, factory alarm control and tach thru the module and it does it thru the data wire at the OBD-II connector.    You just need to have someone flash it for you if you don't have an idatalink account.



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I agree with shortcircuit I myself use idatalink 99 percent of the time and yes they are way more reliable that dei

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triniforever

I am going to tackle it again now so the X kayo 6 diagram for that vehicle shows to 6 pin connectors at the steering column for the bypass it seems like I have a 2 wire in a 3 wire plug

I am going to start using I data link it sounds like everyone prefers them over the Dball

Thank you for your help I will update with what was the issue

This vehicle uses Passlock II which is Type "D" on the install guide for the XK06



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Ok so I got it to start with a du fferent remote start but dies, security light since the bypass wouldnt program. Got the light off but cant get the bypass to program like the instructions for type d. Type d does seem like the wires are correct. Black yellow and RED / white. Ready to use a dball since the lt blue and white wont work or test for the locks. If I dont use the dball how would I do the doorlocks?

Thank you so much for the help. I will be up all night until I get it working. I will update.

How are you programming the bypass unit?

Also, where did you connect tach? Or are you using virtual tach?

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well I am not going to hook up door locks on this truck without a bypass so I am going to use the dball and I hold the button plug in the d2d wire org then red and when I put the key in the ignition and turn it the dball just flashes red instead of going to green. Used D2D and connected the purple / YELLOW to the purple of the diagnostic plug like most of them I have done. I am using a plain key not the one with the plastic, I don't think that matters on passlock 2 but thought I would state it.

I am using virtual tach/ should I use the tach wire in the truck?

I got it to start but when I put it in timer mode for the glowplugs it wont start, seems like it needs a longer crank or something. I thought with the familiar rs and bypass I would be in the clear but the dball wont program and flashes constantly. I flashed it again and it says it has gm4 for the dball.

I am starting to feel defeated but I don't want to give up. Truck is getting picked up in the morning.

Thanks again for your help. I ditched the pk06 since it doesn't do the locks.

I would use tach and program it. You can find it right behind the instrument cluster. It's a white wire, really easy to get to. No need to go to a fuel injector.

I thought Silverado only had gasoline engines don't they? You shouldn't need the diesel delay. I correct myself, as I write this I noticed in the wiring diagram a mention of a wait to start wire. In that case, I would definitely program a tach signal to it. And of course, the wait to start connection if you haven't already.

yes, to program it, you would press and hold the button on the DB-ALL, plug in the power D2D cable (after all other connections are made of course), once the LED turns orange, release the button and the LED turns red. Then just start the truck with the key. LED should turn green, then shut off. Before programming, I would close and then open the driver's door to wake up the BCM in case it went to sleep.

401.GM4 v1.09 is the correct firmware for that vehicle.

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So I was thinking about maybe the truck being a diff year, the vin was a replacement vin(?) and he said it was a 03. 2 years off but I flashed for a 01 and it programmed the first time and the door locks work.

Now my issue is the car wont start I am guessing due to the glowplugs not being warmed. It did start but now it is acting like the glowplugs aren't ready even after leaving it in the ignition for a minute to make sure.

I am happy at least the locks work and the dball is programmed.

I will keep updated.

I had a problem with an older F-250 diesel recently similar to yours. Not a bypass issue as it didn't have an immobilizer but due to so many starts for testing, it would no longer start. Just cranked and cranked but no start. Turned out the batteries needed charging and weren't supplying enough power to warm the glow plugs to allow it to start but were still reading 12v on my meter. Charged the batteries for about 2 hours with a heavy duty battery charger and it fired right up.

Great job on getting the DB-ALL to program. They are a pain at times!

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So I can get it to start but once I try to remote start, it wont turn over almost like it needs a longer crank. I try to start it with the key after that and nothing. I wait a little while and try it and it starts. I am not real familiar with diesels but I feel like I am so close. I thought that the 15 second delay would work instead of the wait to start (the avital does not have that wire only a delay)

so I increased the crank to 1 second and same thing it tries to crank but wont actually start and then the truck wont start with the key. Not sure why but eventually it starts with the key and a long crank and then it is ok with the key. As soon as I try to remote start it I have problems with the key again.

Big Thanks to Frank, you helped a lot. Got it done in time for pickup.
Just to update in case this helps anyone in the future. I didn't use the xko6 I used the dball and flashed it for a 01 instead of a 03 and it programmed right away. The truck had a replacement vin so maybe that had something to do with it but the lock wires seemed like a 03 even though I didn't use them.
The truck wouldn't start because of the dome light I am assuming once I got it to charge and the glowplugs it would start. Then I programmed the tach on the first try.
Note to self use the tach on diesels, pull the dome light fuse, use the better bypass for a few more dollars.