Print Page | Close Window

06 4runner viper 4704v error 3 rpm

Printed From: the12volt.com
Forum Name: Car Security and Convenience
Forum Discription: Car Alarms, Keyless Entries, Remote Starters, Immobilizer Bypasses, Sensors, Door Locks, Window Modules, Heated Mirrors, Heated Seats, etc.
URL: https://www.the12volt.com/installbay/forum_posts.asp?tid=133353
Printed Date: May 21, 2024 at 3:45 AM


Topic: 06 4runner viper 4704v error 3 rpm

Posted By: dpav02
Subject: 06 4runner viper 4704v error 3 rpm
Date Posted: January 19, 2013 at 10:46 AM

Hey all, I was hoping some of you could help me.

I connected the violet/white wire to the BLACK/ white wire of E8 (Toyota ECM, 2nd plug from the bottom)

I have a Fluke multimeter and I set it to AC, I started the car and read the voltage just to make sure I had the correct wire....

Sure enough, as I reved the car, I saw the voltage increase. As I let go, it dropped. So I figured I had the correct wire.

However, now I'm questioning it.

I have a Viper 4704v with the PKALL bypass programmed. I tried to start the car with the remote and it has the 3 attempts before giving me the error.

When I check the Remote Start Shutdown/Startup Diagnostics it says: 3 flashes - Low or No RPM.

I even made the brain learn the tach by using the instructions:

1. Start the vehicle with the key. Within 5 seconds, press and hold the Control button.
2. After 3 seconds the status LED on your Control Center lights constant when the tach signal is learned. 3. Release the Control button.
Note: When the tachometer is programmed, the main unit automatically enters the Tachometer engine checking mode.

The LED stays solid and everything.

Could it be an issue with my bypass? Everything else works, the locks, the lights, the buzzer I hooked up (instead of the horn)

Can anybody point me to what I may be missing?

One thing I thought of: Anything that says it goes to the ignition harness, I have it hooked up to the bigger gaged wires going to the white plug.

The only exception was key sense. I have that going to the GREEN / WHITE wire to the blue plug below my steering column.

Maybe I have one of my ignition or accessory wires in the wrong location?

Any and all help is greatly appreciated.



Replies:

Posted By: howie ll
Date Posted: January 19, 2013 at 12:26 PM
I usually use pin 9 on the data (OBD II) socket under dash for tach on Toyotas.

-------------
Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.




Posted By: howie ll
Date Posted: January 19, 2013 at 12:30 PM
No sorry you're correct on tach location.
N.B. Keysense is GREEN/ YELLOW so check the rest of your wiring.

-------------
Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.




Posted By: dpav02
Date Posted: January 19, 2013 at 12:35 PM
Yea that's what I'm about to do.

It's just frustrating that it doesn't even try to crank when I'm getting voltage to the green black starter wire.




Posted By: dpav02
Date Posted: January 19, 2013 at 1:45 PM
So I tried to change the engine type...

Using virtual tach I get 9 flashes, and having it off it doesn't do anything.

In all cases, the car turns on, but there's no cranking.

I'm so close! If anybody could offer suggestions on what to check first that'd be great.

I'm going to start with everything to the ignition harness




Posted By: kreg357
Date Posted: January 19, 2013 at 2:44 PM

Viper 4704V H3 Harness           2006 4Runner
1 PINK (+) IGNITION 1 INPUT/OUTPUT          BLACK/ Red @ Ignition Switch Harness
2 RED / WHITE (+) 12VDC CONSTANT INPUT   Red @ Ignition Switch Harness
3 ORANGE (+) ACCESSORY OUTPUT            WHITE/ Green @ Ignition Switch Harness
4 VIOLET (+) STARTER OUTPUT        GREEN/ Black @ Ignition Switch Harness
5 RED (+) 12VDC CONSTANT INPUT             Red @ Ignition Switch Harness
6 PINK/WHITE (+) IGNITION 2 / FLEX RELAY OUTPUT         Blue / YELLOW @ Ignition Switch Harness
7 PINK/BLACK (+) FLEX RELAY INPUT 87A   Not Used
8 RED / BLACK (+) 12VDC CONSTANT INPUT   WHITE/ Blue @ Ignition Switch Harness

What happens if you unplug the PKALL and insert, but not turn, the ignition key and try a remote start?

Also, where to you connect the PKALL Blue (-) While Running wire?



-------------
Soldering is fun!




Posted By: pentavolvo
Date Posted: January 19, 2013 at 3:14 PM
a no crank points to the pkall




Posted By: dpav02
Date Posted: January 19, 2013 at 4:49 PM
Okay, I just double checked what you said.

The only difference was some things that you said went to WHITE/ Blue I had going to Red and vice versa...

But I wouldn't think that would matter because they're both just 12VDC positive.

HOWEVER, I did switch them to match what you described. I also triple checked my connections (I'm using posi-taps). Everything is tight.

I disconnected the PKALL and tried with the key with no luck. Same thing. Radio comes on, it dies, 3 times then my pager is sent the official error.

FYI, I have the PKALL connected via D2D as well as the H2/9 (dark blue) wire from the remote start to the blue/white wire of the PKALL (the same harness where key sense / TX / RX get hooked up to)

I'm stumped.




Posted By: smokeman1
Date Posted: January 19, 2013 at 5:06 PM
dump the posi-taps and solder and tape your connections.

-------------
When all else fails, Read the Instructions
Support the12volt.com Make a Donation




Posted By: dpav02
Date Posted: January 19, 2013 at 6:07 PM
You haven't seen my soldering skills... They're terrible :(




Posted By: dpav02
Date Posted: January 20, 2013 at 10:05 PM
Figured it out. The GREEN/ black wire is actually a smaller gauge than like the ignition wire for example.

I used a smaller posi-tap with the key in and boom! She fired right up!

Hooked up the bypass and that works too! So I programmed it correctly :)

Thank you all! Without people like you and this site, I could have never done this. You saved me about $450 in labor because I installed a 2102T unit as well... So now I have remote start and passive keyless entry :)




Posted By: howie ll
Date Posted: January 21, 2013 at 2:12 AM
Nice but dump the posi-taps and learn to solder, otherwise this will start to fail in a big way after about 3 months.

-------------
Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.




Posted By: dpav02
Date Posted: January 21, 2013 at 9:50 PM
Really? They're expensive and get great reviews... A lot of biker dudes use them because they resist vibration....

I bought some wire and I do have an iron / solder... Maybe I'll start practicing.




Posted By: smokeman1
Date Posted: January 21, 2013 at 11:02 PM
You don't have to snotty about some advice. I also said to dump the t-taps a few days ago.  Good Luck

-------------
When all else fails, Read the Instructions
Support the12volt.com Make a Donation




Posted By: enice
Date Posted: January 22, 2013 at 12:11 AM
if soldering a wire that big is proven difficult then I wouldn't want you near a circuit board.

Get a Weller 30watt iron at home depot. Their like 25 bucks at most. Wrap your wire around the car wire and hold the iron on it for a few seconds. Then touch the wire with the solder while the iron is still on it and you will see the wire pull the solder and seep in.

-------------
Eric
Audiomaxx
528 East Fordham Road
Bronx NY 10458
Compustar Top Gun Dealer Award 2012-2013






Print Page | Close Window