idatalink remote start issue

Hey all. Apologies if this is the wrong area to post this. Yesterday I was installing an idatalink ads-al ca with the necessary ads-hrn ch4 harness. This went into a 2012 jeep grand Cherokee 6 cyl no pts. I followed the instructions. Flashed it with the remote start firmware. Hooked up my own hood pin (GREEN/ black wire on module), tapped into drivers door trigger(green wire on module), and hooked up a valet switch (blue/black on module). Plugged the t harness up. This is all it called for. No other connections as it said the parking lights were not mux. I then went through the programming and that showed the correct led colors and blinks like it should. I proceeded to leave the factory settings which would be to press lock, lock, lock and the truck should start. Well, it didn't. No flashes on the module telling me any issue. No blinks at all actually. So I proceeded to check my wires. Hood was closed pin functioning. The door trigger was good checked that 30 times over. And the valet switch was on showing ground. I even went as far as to disconnect the hood pin so it definitely wasn't grounded, disconnected the door trigger so that wasn't grounded, and gave the valet wire a straight ground. Lock, lock, lock, nothing. I unhooked and factory reset and reprogrammed at least 20x. I even changed the setting to lock, unlock, lock. Nothing. What is going on here? I had the same issue with a 2008 jeep patriot with a t harness and an ads-alca but with a autopage remote start. I wound up getting so frustrated that I used a compustar remote start and a blade al that I was more familiar with just to get the truck out of my garage. I usually use compustar and blade bypasses with no problems. But they claim thos t harness and bypass is so easy. Which it was if it worked. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thank you ahead of time.

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Did you learn the tach signal according to the instructions? Did it program correctly? It is a little bit tricky timing. You have to press the locks slowly (but not too slow). I usually count to 3 and press it on each number (1 one thousand, 2 one thousand...)

Also, if you connect parking lights you will need a run a wire to the battery. The lights draw too much amperage for the factory wiring. I didn't see a parking light connection listed, but something to keep in mind if you do decide to connect them.

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Kenny
Owner / Technician
KKD Garage LLC
Albany, NY 12205

when you flashed the module did you flash with RS firmware? you need to flash the ALCA to RS-CH4 firmware when you flash it make sure you chose DBI in the options, you shouldnt need to cycle the key to program the idatalink, with a tharness this install should take about 10 minutes total.

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Mike

Thank you both for your quick replies. As for tach signal I'm assuming that is the whole reason I cycle the key and all that. Which I did. I followed all the instructions on that install sheet. As for parking lights, it said it was not supported and I assumed the lights turn on when this truck is running anyway so I left it at that.

As for the flashing yes. I flashed it with the rs firmware. Twice actually. Ten minutes no. But it took me about 30 after hooking up my own hood pin bc I could not find the one in the connector under the hood. As for dbi in the options? That's new to me? What is dbi in the options. Basically the first time I flashed it with rs firmware and that was it. Plugged it up wired it up. And should have been done. Second time I flashed it I changed the sequence to lock, unlock, lock. Please explain dbi? I returned the car to the owner but I am baffled by what I did wrong. I even called a buddy who has done these before and he didn't understand what I did wrong either.

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You learn something new everyday. Whether or not you fail to file it as useful is up to you.

Do you get any flashing LED lights on the module after attempting to remote start?

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Kenny
Owner / Technician
KKD Garage LLC
Albany, NY 12205

I get no flashes at all. No flashes indicating that, lets say like the hood is open or something. I get nothing. After programming that's the last time I see any lights on the module.

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You learn something new everyday. Whether or not you fail to file it as useful is up to you.

After the key cycling, did you press the unlock button on the remote? It sounds like the module isn't reading your factory remote...

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Kenny
Owner / Technician
KKD Garage LLC
Albany, NY 12205

Yep. On both remotes too. I even heard a while back that you need to wait 30-60 seconds before you can remote start so I waited ten mins. Nothing. Am I doing something stupid here or did I just get a doodiety module/t harness?

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You learn something new everyday. Whether or not you fail to file it as useful is up to you.

I meant a doodiety* idk where doodiety came from lmao

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You learn something new everyday. Whether or not you fail to file it as useful is up to you.

Ahhh that's where doodiety came from. I didn't know you couldn't curse on here. My apologies

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You learn something new everyday. Whether or not you fail to file it as useful is up to you.

I did the exact same setup on monday night on a 2010 grand caravan.

I had It all hooked up programmed correctly. When I tried to remote start, worked like a charm.

Then I closed it all up and tested it again....NOTHING!

Pulled it all apart and realized that somehow I had blown the 5a Ato fuse that came with the ch4 harness.

Upon looking at the fuse, it seemed a bit cheap in quality,so I went and replaced it with one from the stash and now it works no problem.


Also one more thing to note, all doors must be closed when you try to remote start. If they are open, it will not remote start and will give you a blinking red light a time of start.

One more thought, in addition to the ch4harness, I needed to add the long black harness from the ads to the side with led light.

You need to connect the blue/black wire (please verify this as I'm going by memory) to ground to enable remote start. You can also connect it to a valet switch, with the other pole of the switch connecting to ground.

Jsolts. U may be onto something with that fuse. But the valet if u read the rest of the posts I did hook up. And then did give it a straight ground and nothing. But I'm gonna check that fuse.

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You learn something new everyday. Whether or not you fail to file it as useful is up to you.

delco_installer wrote:

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when you flashed the module did you flash with RS firmware? you need to flash the ALCA to RS-CH4 firmware when you flash it make sure you chose DBI in the options, you shouldnt need to cycle the key to program the idatalink, with a tharness this install should take about 10 minutes total.

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I second this.
If its programming the fuse is not blown.
Lock lock lock only works when you flash it with
DBI-RS -CH
Re flash to DBI instead of ads

metz35 wrote:

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delco_installer wrote:

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when you flashed the module did you flash with RS firmware? you need to flash the ALCA to RS-CH4 firmware when you flash it make sure you chose DBI in the options, you shouldnt need to cycle the key to program the idatalink, with a tharness this install should take about 10 minutes total.

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I second this.
If its programming the fuse is not blown.
Lock lock lock only works when you flash it with
DBI-RS -CH
Re flash to DBI instead of ads

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You are correct you do need to use the dbi firmware for oem remote start (lock lock lock)


But if he's getting no lights at all on the ads then it could be the fuse.

Also for the 2010 grand caravan, I did need to cycle the key to on, wait for it to repedidly blink green, take key out , and press unlock on the remote.

I checked the fuse in the harness. Fuse is good. And I cannot be 100% positive that I flashed it to the dbi rs ch4, but believe I did. I believe I tried all the flashing options bc I didn't know what else to do at that point. They all had the same exact way to hook it up. But figured maybe something wasn't mentioned about which to use (ads, dbi, com). But again I was so frustrated and honestly cannot say I definitely did. I will have the jeep again on Sunday and will double check and do dbi this time. If not I'm just going my old reliable route. Compustar ft-6200s-cont with a blade al and a 4 button remote. Blades never give me trouble. Just more wiring. I thank you all for your responses it is greatly appreciated. I will let you all know how I make out. Thank you again.

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You learn something new everyday. Whether or not you fail to file it as useful is up to you.

So I worked on the jeep again today. Flashed with the dbi rs ch4 firmware and still nothing. Someone told me that if the horn isn't honking it won't remote start? wth kinda shmit is that? Anyway idk what is wrong. It's not a complicated install by any means. Thank you all for the help. Only thing I can think of is a bunk module. I wound up putting a compustar with the blade. Worked like blade always does for me.

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You learn something new everyday. Whether or not you fail to file it as useful is up to you.

That would make sense. If the factory system had some sort of multiple lock signal 'block', then the module wouldn't be able to sense the 3 separate inputs. Every Chrysler I've done with that module has had the horn honk upon the 2nd and 3rd presses... so anything is possible.

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Kenny
Owner / Technician
KKD Garage LLC
Albany, NY 12205

The doors lock everytime I press the button. But no horn honks. And I got so frustrated I just went for the compustar with blade al which has never given me a problem. Just a few more wires is all. Cool that the jeep has its battery under the passenger seat. I haven't seen that one yet. Thank you all for trying to help though.

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You learn something new everyday. Whether or not you fail to file it as useful is up to you.