bypass, 2011 civic si

I am looking into installing an AK-104B w/remote start into a 2011 Civic Si.

I know I need a bypass module. but when I'm looking at bypass modules, it shows ones that are just Data Immobilizers, and some that are Door lock and unlock with immobilizer bypass.

I have done searching on here, but not sure what it means exactly.

How do I know which one I need. Whats the difference?

Thanks for the help in advance!

- Goku

It means that it either does the key bypass only or it will do key bypass and control door locks and or convience features.
Tip by the key bypass only version
The door lock and alarm wires are easy to get in a civic

Awesome!! Thank you very much for your response!

Also, one more question. The AK-104B has 3 wires that need to be tapped into the 12v Ignition wire. Not sure why they need 3, but since I want to solder the connections, should I connect them at seperate spots, or twist all three of them together, and solder them at one spot?

Is there a thread that shows some good pictures of people soldering connections? My search results did not find anything :(

With that vehicle install, I would run all three +12V constant input wires to the Civic's White +12V constant
power wire and make three solder connections at a convenient location.  The White +12V constant wire
is rated at 50 Amps.

When soldering two wire ends together, the preferred splice is the Western Union Splice.  Here is a link
to a how-to / diagram :  https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Western_Union_splice  This splice can be used with
stranded wire, then soldered and insulated with a piece of heat shrink tube.

When making "Tap" connections ( like the 3 R/S power connections to the one White +12V constant wire )
the preferred method is the "poke and twist" method.  First strip off a section of insulation from the
supply wire, then use a plastic toothpick like tool to separate the exposed strands into two equal sections.
Then strip off a section of insulation off the end of the wire to be tapped onto the supply wire.  Twist
the wire strands to group them together and insert them between the separated supply wire sections.
Close the separation and then twist the end of the wire around the supply wire.  Solder and apply quality
electric tape.  Add a tie wrap to secure the tape and two wires together.  Here is a link to a Bulldog Security
install guide that has some diagrams of the "poke and twist" method ( without the necessary soldering step ).
https://www.bulldogsecurity.com/manualsnew/R82MaunalEngSpangoodlow.pdf   See Page 7.

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Soldering is fun!

Awesome Information!!!

Thanks to the both of you for answering my questions!!

Last question..promise...When tapping into wires like the door lock/unlock, and trunk release, is there a way to just tap the wire into the plug that the pin is in? Or is it best just to cut back some shielding, and solder it on?


PS: Thank you for whoever changed my title, it was originally titled "Bypass Question" unsure why it just posted as "Bypass"

Working with / on the vehicle connector plugs usually requires special tools to de-pin the wires.  All of the
wires are machine crimped to the pins, so adding another wire is out, unless you have the correct style pin
and a high quality crimping tool.  I find it much easier ( and quicker ) to just strip some insulation, twist,
solder and insulate these thin wire-tap connections.  Additionally, disconnecting / re-connecting some
connectors while "hot" can cause very interesting problems.  Most installers will do the complete install
with the battery connected ( and the engine running, if working outside in the winter    ).  Think that series
of Civic has a radio with a security code that must be entered if the battery is disconnected.

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Soldering is fun!

What remote start module are you using? Is it alarm and remote start or just remote start? The reason I ask is that very few alarms have an arm / disarm input so if you were to connect the door locks directly from the AK104B to the vehicle, it would not disarm the alarm and could cause it to go off. If you are just using a remote start module then you can connect both units (remote start and AK104B) to the door lock wires. If you have a factory alarm in the vehicle, you will need to tie into the factory arm / disarm wires. If you need any help with the AK104B, please don't hesitate to ask me. I am an authorized dealer for Advanced Keys and have installed their unit before (tying in with a Compustar Remote start / alarm system), so I can do what I can to help.

-------------
Kenny
Owner / Technician
KKD Garage LLC
Albany, NY 12205

I normally always agree with metz, but I do have to disagree with him this time regarding the bypass. The idatalink AL bypass will provide a lot of your required connections including locks, factory arm / disarm, hood pin status (if equipped), door pin status (which will be required with a proper r/s for manual transmissions), trunk release, and trunk status.

You MUST disable the remote start feature of the AK104B. It is NOT designed for use on a manual transmission and does not have any safety barrier to prevent the vehicle from starting in gear. Also make sure that the remote start module you have is designed for a manual transmission and that you install it correctly for use on a manual transmission.

-------------
Kenny
Owner / Technician
KKD Garage LLC
Albany, NY 12205

offroadzj wrote:

---

What remote start module are you using? Is it alarm and remote start or just remote start? The reason I ask is that very few alarms have an arm / disarm input so if you were to connect the door locks directly from the AK104B to the vehicle, it would not disarm the alarm and could cause it to go off. If you are just using a remote start module then you can connect both units (remote start and AK104B) to the door lock wires. If you have a factory alarm in the vehicle, you will need to tie into the factory arm / disarm wires. If you need any help with the AK104B, please don't hesitate to ask me. I am an authorized dealer for Advanced Keys and have installed their unit before (tying in with a Compustar Remote start / alarm system), so I can do what I can to help.

---

I know my 2011 Si has a factory Keyless entry, and I think a base factory alarm.

I was also planning on using the Advanced Keys Remote start w/ push start.

I would love for some insight on if its double on my Si :)

offroadzj wrote:

---

I normally always agree with metz, but I do have to disagree with him this time regarding the bypass. The idatalink AL bypass will provide a lot of your required connections including locks, factory arm / disarm, hood pin status (if equipped), door pin status (which will be required with a proper r/s for manual transmissions), trunk release, and trunk status.

You MUST disable the remote start feature of the AK104B. It is NOT designed for use on a manual transmission and does not have any safety barrier to prevent the vehicle from starting in gear. Also make sure that the remote start module you have is designed for a manual transmission and that you install it correctly for use on a manual transmission.

---

From my understanding, the Advanced Key Push Start/Remote Start is designed for manual. Would it be the Neutral safety Switch wire?

It can be used on a few select manual transmission vehicles, but the vehicle MUST have a wired neutral safety switch... which very few vehicles do. I am almost certain that the Civic does not. Without the NSS wire, there is no way to safely install it.

-------------
Kenny
Owner / Technician
KKD Garage LLC
Albany, NY 12205