jeep grand cherokee and avital 4113

Hey all! I’m new to the forum and I’m in desperate need of help. I have an Avital 4113 remote starter that I am trying to install in my 2000 Jeep Grand Cherokee but for the life of me I can’t get it to work. I have checked and rechecked that I have all the wires hooked up correctly from the remote start module to their respective wires underneath the dashboard but it still won’t work. I have grounded the neutral safety switch, connected the tachometer input wire and the hood pin wire, but still nothing. The best I can get is I can get the red light on the module or “brain” of the remote starter to light up but I can’t get it to blink like the manual says it should, and I can’t get any of the relays inside the module to click and send power to the ignition circuit and starter. At first I thought my problem was the remotes that came with the remote starter but today I tried to activate the remote starter manually by connecting a wire on one of the wiring harnesses to ground as described in the manual. Even with this technique (which is presumably is included in the manual for the installer to test to see if they have everything hooked up correctly, clearly I don’t) I simply can’t get the remote starter to work. Does anyone have any guidance or suggestions for what the problem could be here? At this point I’m hoping for a big “aha” moment or the conclusion that the brain/module of the remote starter is defective. Thanks in advance for any help!

Isn't a by-pass required for this vehicle?
If so and you've attended to that, list your Avital wiring next to where you've connected it to the vehicle wiring.
The post is too vague otherwise, too many wiring errors possible without us knowing what and where to.

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Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

Howie is correct.

Please list the wires from the avital that are connected to what on the Jeep. Also what bypass is being used and those wires. This gives us a starting point.

Did you test the vehicles wiring with a DMM?  Are your connections scotchlocked, T-Taps or soldered?

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All the red and RED / + secondary connected to a good 12v+ constant, ignition, fuse box supply or battery?
Good ground? Have you tested voltage from ground point to above?
Etc. Etc. Etc.
Does the factory security light stay on if present?
Do the instrument panel (gauges) come on when you initiate R/S?
That's why we want your connection list please.

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Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

Assuming you need a by-pass, this is one DB-ALL DB-ALL - 401.CHRYSLER2 1.09.from DEI Expresskit
Or Fortin EVO-All or INT-SL+ from Fortin.
Or ADS-AL-CA DL CH6 from idatalink.
Google them.
Any of them would have saved you loads of time on the install.
You should have posted BEFORE installing.
That's all the P's


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Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

Check your Factory ignition keys.  If they are Gray, you need a bypass module.  If they are Black,
or you are currently using a plain metal hardware store copy, then no bypass module is needed.

At a minimum, these are the wires you should have connected.
H1/8 BLACK GROUND          solder on terminal ring and connect to clean, unpainted, solid metal chassis bolt
H1/9 WHITE (+/-) LIGHT FLASH  set to (+)   Yellow @ Headlight switch  ***see relay wiring below

1 PINK (+) (30 AMP) OUTPUT TO IGNITION CIRCUIT          Dark Blue @ Ignition switch harness
2 PURPLE (+) (30 AMP) OUTPUT TO STARTER CIRCUIT Yellow @ Ignition switch harness  
3 ORANGE (+) (30 AMP) OUTPUT TO ACCESSORY CIRCUIT       RED / Black @ Ignition switch harness  
4 RED (+) (30A) HIGH CURRENT 12 INPUT   Red @ Ignition switch harness  
5 PINK/WHITE (+) PROGRAMMED to ACCESSORY BLACK/ Orange @ Ignition switch harness  
6 RED (+) (30A) HIGH CURRENT 12V INPUT           Pink/Black @ Ignition switch harness  

H2/1 BLACK/ WHITE (-) NEUTRAL SAFETY SWITCH INPUT Chassis ground
H2/2 VIOLET/WHITE TACHOMETER INPUT WIRE     See note below
H2/3 BROWN (+) BRAKE SWITCH SHUTDOWN WIRE          WHITE/ TAN (+)  @ SWITCH ABOVE BRAKE PEDAL
H2/4 GRAY (-) HOOD PINSWITCH SHUTDOWN WIRE           to Avital hood pin switch supplied in kit

Tach Note :
4.7L engine, go to any coil and use any wire that is NOT DARK GREEN/ ORANGE.   4.0L engine, use any wire with a TAN STRIPE at the coil pack.

Parking Light Relay ( 30/40 Amp SPDT, 1N4007 diode, 1300 ohm 1/4 watt resistor )
Relay Pin 85 to Chassis ground
Relay Pin 86 to Avital 4113 H1/9 White (+) Parking Light Output
Relay Pin 87a to headlight switch side of cut Yellow wire
Realy Pin 30 to vehicle side of cut Yellow wire
Relay Pin 87 to chassis ground thru 1300 ohm resistor
Connect 1N4007 diode across relay Pins 85 to 86 with band towards Pin 86
***Note some wire guide listings have resistor value of 915 ohms.

You will have to program the Avital 4113 to Tach Mode and do a Tach Learn prior to a remote start.

Also program the Selectable Ignition Pink/White output to Accessory.

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Soldering is fun!

Thanks for getting back to me guys. Sorry about my vague post, I didn’t want to bore anyone with a really long post with all of my wiring connections. And in response to smokeman1 I have the wires threaded through one another (making a hole in the wire on the ignition harness, and then pushing the wire from the remote starter through the hole) wrapped around, then soldered and taped up. I will attach a pdf of the Avital 4113 Installation Guide if anyone wants to take look at it Here are all my wiring connections:

PDF: https://www.directeddealers.com/manuals/IG/Avital/N4113_2008-07print.pdf

Primary Harness (H1), 9-pin harness:

•     H1/1 (Light GREEN/ Black): Connected to the Light GREEN/ Orange wire in the driver’s side door connector [Factory Alarm Disarm]
•     H1/2 (GREEN / WHITE): Not hooked up (this model of Jeeps doesn’t have a factory rearm wire) [Factory Alarm Rearm]
•     H1/3 (Yellow): Connected to Dark Blue wire in ignition harness [Ignition Out (to alarm)]
•     H1/4 (WHITE/ Blue): Connected to Push-button switch connected to a ground wire (to manual activate remote starter and test if it is working) [Activation Input]
•     H1/5 (Orange): Not Hooked up (this feature is not applicable for the one button remote system that I have) [Ground when locked input]
•     H1/6 (Brown): Not Hooked up (this feature is not applicable for the one button remote system that I have) [Horn Output]
•     H1/7 (RED / White): Not Hooked up (SUVs don’t have a trunk release, and this feature is not applicable for the one button remote system that I have) [Trunk Release]
•     H1/8 (Black): Connected to a factory bolt underneath the dashboard with a ring connector [Chassis Ground Connection]
•     H1/9 (White): Connected to the parking light wire in the steering column through a 463 ohm resistor [Light Flash Output]

Heavy Gauge Harness, 6-pin harness:

•     1 (Pink): Connected to the Dark Blue wire in the ignition harness [Output to Ignition Circuit]
•     2 (Purple): Connected to yellow wire in ignition harness [Output to starter circuit]
•     3 (Orange): Connected to RED / Black Wire in ignition harness [Output to Accessory Circuit]
•     4 (Red): Connected to Red wire in ignition harness [30 amp high current 12 volt input]
•     5 (Pink/White) Connected to BLACK/ Orange wire in ignition harness [Programmable output for accessory or ignition]
•     6 (Red): Connected to Red wire in ignition harness (same as H2/4) [30 amp high current 12 volt input]

Remote Start Harness (H2), 5-pin harness:

•     H2/1 (BLACK/ White): Connected to ground connection, same factory bolt as H1/8 (I removed the optional toggle switch and connected it directly to ground) [Neutral Safety Switch Input]
•     H2/2 (Violet/White): Connected to the Tan/Red wire on the first spark plug coil [Tachometer Input Wire]
•     H2/3 (Brown): Connected to the WHITE/ Tan wire at the brake switch [Brake Switch Shutdown Wire]
•     H2/4 (Gray): Connected to the hood pinswitch mounted in the front of the engine bay [Hood Pinswitch shutdown wire]
•     H2/5 (Blue/White): Not hooked up [Rear defogger ouput]

Oh and in response to needing a bypass yes I need one and yes I have one (a 556uw made by Directed Electronics) but it is not hooked up at the moment. For now I have the factory immobilizer hooked up and when I test the remote starter I put my key in the ignition (without turning it of course) so the RFID signal can be read by the immobilizer and it won’t shut down the car. However even if didn’t put my key in the ignition for the RFID signal to be read would the car at least start, but shut down soon after?

w/out imobilizer it would start then die

H1/3 (Yellow): Connected to Dark Blue wire in ignition harness [Ignition Out (to alarm)]
Not needed.
Can't really see what else you've done wrong.
Have you checked for voltage between your ground and 12V+ supplies, after the fuse?
Also try the outputs, pink, pink/white, violet (purple) and orange when you initiate the R/S.
You STILL haven't answered my question, do the ignition lights come on?

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Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

If you have a immobilizer connected and you insert a key into the ignition, it will not start as the RS is seeing two keys.  Did you do tach learn?

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Sorry howie II, no the ignition lights do not come on. I will also disconnect the yellow wire (H1/3) seeing as its not needed. Smokeman1 yes i did do the tach learning routine but with the module being as unresponsive as it has i dont know if the tach learning was successful or not. Could you elaborate on the RS seeing two keys and then not starting?

Tach Learning is on page 28 of the install manual.  I am confused. You say you have the 556 connected, and then you say it is not connected.  Can you list the connections from the 556 to what on the car or RS. 

Which module is not responsive the Avital or the bypass?

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Any flashes from the parking lights?  If so, how many flashes?

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dbl check your brake shutdown wire if you have it connected to wrong wire and it has 12 volts on it when it shouldnt then it will not even attempt to start

I think there is some confusion here between the immobilizer and the bypass. I have a bypass, the 556uw, which is meant to bypass the immobilizer built into the car. As of right now the bypass is not currently connected at all. The immobilizer, the module that gets the RFID signal from the key and lets the car continue to run, is still hooked up. To combat the immobilizer still being connected I always insert the key into the ignition (without turning it obviously) so the immobilizer wont shut down the engine. However the engine never starts with the remote starter so in reality the immobilizer is not the issue. The parking lights do not flash and the Avital module is completely unresponsive.

The fact that you have the key in the ignition means you don't have to worry about a by-pass at this point.
Have you checked the voltages yet?
If you were getting power through the circuit you should be getting the instrument lights coming on.

-------------
Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

Time to get the DMM out and start checking for voltage. Check to make sure all the connectors are in tight.

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I will go and check all my connections and check the voltages going to the module, hopefully that’s all the problem is. Some other people have been telling me my module could still be in “programming mode” (whatever that means) and that could be the reason why its not working. Anyone heard of this?

It automatically times out after about a minute with no programming or after the ignition has been turned on/off so don't listen to "some people".

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Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

First thing I would check is at the plug end of the heavy gauge harness, is there 12 volts constant at the connector end of the two red wires. If those have 12 volts, plug the harness back into the 4113 brain, check the outputs of the pink, orange, pink/white, and purple wires while attempting to remote start. You should hopefully see 12 volts coming out of the 4113 on those wires. You might have to do this a couple of times to test all four outputs.

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nss or brake wire being wrong will cause same issue

So that's two of us told you about testing plus pentavolvo just made some very good points.
Things that will abort remote start:-
Brake switch wired on input rather than bulb (output) side.
Bad ground thus test.
Hood switch wrong, shorting to ground.

With tach not learned it will R/S but will shut down after 10-15 seconds.

I once had a unit that had seemingly failed for no reason, I checked all the inputs, the owner had installed aftermarket LED rear lights, the R/S was sensing 2-3 volts on the break output.

Also seen a parking (e) brake switch failed.

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Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

PROBLEM SOLVED! I was using a factory bolt under the dashboard as a ground connection but as soon as i switched it to a bolt connected to the chassis the system worked immediately. Thanks everyone for all your help! Your suggestions to check voltages and my ground connections were spot on, thanks so much!

WINNER ! WINNER!  Another chicken dinner... Glad to hear you got it going.

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Clear case of someone not listening to the real experts here.
May I pat Kregg and smokeman on the back and a small cigar for me for all pointing out the solution on the first page?
OP next time you do an install please remember my signature line; the part about TESTING.

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Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.