gmt900 missing oem factory disarm wire

Hi all, I am new here. I recently installed a Python 574 unit with a db-all interface hooked up via D2D in my 2011 Chevy Avalanche. I have heard many bad things about the db-all bypass but it has been good to me, well mostly. Sometimes the db-all stumbles and does not disarm the factory alarm which causes the factory alarm to go off when I lock/unlock using the Python fob. A local shop told me to hook up the python's factory disarm wire to the car's disarm wire. Well here is the problem, looking at wiring diagrams for the Avalanche, the location of the factory disarm wire is suppose to be a light green wire on the brown plug connected to the driver's door switch. Furthermore, it states it is the 4th pin, well there is no such light green wire anywhere on the switch and no wire on the 4th pin of the brown plug so I have no idea where the factory disarm wire could be. I also looked at the Silverado wiring diagrams and it states that their disarm wire is in the pink plug on the BCM 20th pin, well theres no wire there either. I was wondering if anyone has an idea where the location of this wire is.

Since I also do not want to make two threads I mind as well ask here too, going with the subject of the disarm wire, I stated that sometimes locking/unlocking with the aftermarket fob sets off the factory alarm. What could be the possible problem, or is the disarm wire the problem?

Thanks

Since junior members can't edit post, I would like to apologize, after I post this I found the section that is used to request wiring diagrams. If a mod could move this, that would be great.

Well it's been a a day or two since I posted this. Anyone want to help me out?

According to everything I have for a 2011 Avalanche, disarm is through the factory remote or data module only. But disarm without unlock is done with the passkey and ignition. So from what I can see, the DB-ALL is not working properly. Is it connected D2D or W2W?

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Kenny
Owner / Technician
KKD Garage LLC
Albany, NY 12205

X 2 with offroadzj.

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Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

offroadzj wrote:

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According to everything I have for a 2011 Avalanche, disarm is through the factory remote or data module only. But disarm without unlock is done with the passkey and ignition. So from what I can see, the DB-ALL is not working properly. Is it connected D2D or W2W?

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Thanks for the replies. It is connected via D2D. I wanted to retain the use of the factory remote controlling the aftermarket alarm. The firmware I am using is the latest for the vehicle, GM6 v2.39

From my experience, D2D is useless. The few that I did had nothing but problems and all of them ended up going to W2W. In reality, most people will never really use the factory remote for the aftermarket alarm due to its limited range. It sounds like you may need to make a decision on what is more important... factory control or having to deal with the alarm going off once in a while. I suggest changing it over to W2W.

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Kenny
Owner / Technician
KKD Garage LLC
Albany, NY 12205

offroadzj wrote:

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From my experience, D2D is useless. The few that I did had nothing but problems and all of them ended up going to W2W. In reality, most people will never really use the factory remote for the aftermarket alarm due to its limited range. It sounds like you may need to make a decision on what is more important... factory control or having to deal with the alarm going off once in a while. I suggest changing it over to W2W.

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This is my first alarm install, but w2w essentially means just hardwiring the brain to the module correct? I know that hardwiring things is always better, but how will this fix my issue even without a factory disarm wire? If the DB-all is supposedly not working properly, how will hardwiring and d2d be a difference? Or is the factory alarm going off due to a missed disarm signal through d2d?

Is somebody locking the doors with the switch on the door when they get out of the vehicle?

As long as you lock it with the viper remote and unlock it with the viper, you should not have this problem. If somebody that rides with you locks it from the doorswitch, you will experience exactly what you have going on.

Ah Craig, thanks for the common sense.
OP revert to W2W, it will be more reliable.

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Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

Howie, that is learned sense. The boss was having that problem and then he figured out it was only when I rode with him. It is habit for me to lock whatever I get out of. It took us weeks to finally figure out that I was the cause of the problem.

i am an idiot wrote:

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Is somebody locking the doors with the switch on the door when they get out of the vehicle?

As long as you lock it with the viper remote and unlock it with the viper, you should not have this problem. If somebody that rides with you locks it from the doorswitch, you will experience exactly what you have going on.

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I am aware of that possible problem, however, it does not happen even if I lock with the door switch. More or less, it is random. I have locked using both the door switch + fob without it setting off. I know exactly when the factory alarm goes off, since there is a lag when I press either lock/unlock and it will not send the signal, but cancel it without alart and set off the horn instead.

Learned becomes experience and knowledge.
How do we become experienced otherwise?
The reason our OP is having problems is because of ease he has wired this as D2D.
Other peoples' experience says D2D is unreliable.
Personally I would also check the voltages between the unit's ground point and 12V+ supplies.
At my estimate 75% of alarm-R/S problems are poor grounds and poor connections, e.g. T-tap connectors instead of soldered joints.

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Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

howie ll wrote:

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Learned becomes experience and knowledge.
How do we become experienced otherwise?
The reason our OP is having problems is because of ease he has wired this as D2D.
Other peoples' experience says D2D is unreliable.
Personally I would also check the voltages between the unit's ground point and 12V+ supplies.
At my estimate 75% of alarm-R/S problems are poor grounds and poor connections, e.g. T-tap connectors instead of soldered joints.

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Everything is soldered and grounded to bare metal. I despise anything but solder for any connection. I am going to try to w2w route, everytime there is an easy route for me there is always problems. I am going to Rewire it when I get the chance. For the time being anymore input on this can be of use. Thanks everyone.

Don't feel too bad about it, we are only being clever because we've made the same mistakes and are trying to pass on our learnt benefits.
If you haven't already, I'd still test the voltage between your ground point and the 12V+ inputs just to eliminate the "poor ground" syndrome

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Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.