ford escape 2008 rs talk about noob

Hello there,

I'm an avid DIY guy, sometimes to a fault. Hopefully you all can give me a hand.

I bought the Avital 4103 Remote Start with the PKALL D2D bypass module.
I'm hooking it up to a 2008 Ford Escape as per title.


Here the connections I made:

H1/1 Light GREEN/ Black     Factory Alarm Disarm  Not Connected
H1/2 GREEN / WHITE Factory Rearm       Not Connected
H1/3 Yellow        Ignition out to Alarm      Connected to Pink Heavy Gauge
H1/4 WHITE/ Blue   Activation Input Not Connected    
H1/5 Orange       Ground when Locked  Not Connected
H1/6 Brown  Horn Output   Connected to Brown Wire at Ignition Harness
H1/7 RED / White     Trunk Output   Not Connected
H1/8 BlackGround Not Connected
H1/9 WhiteLights (+) connected to VIO/WHT Drivers kick panel

Heavy Gauge Relay
Pink      Ignition circuit wired to WHITE/ Orange cable
Purple   Starter Circuit wired to Blue/White cable
Orange Accessory Circuit wired to Violet/Green
Red 12v wired to Blue/Red
Pink/White NOT CONNECTED
Red 12v wired to Blue/Red

PKALL BYPASS MODULE:

Connected to wires 3&4 of Ignition Barrel
TX Cable connected to wire 3
RX Cable connected to wire 4

I connected what cables I thought I needed and tried to program the remote start,

Reading the Manual hasn't helped and I understand there is still more to go:

Hood pin switch - Seen installs online and on here without? Not sure if I need to use it.

Brake switch shutdown wire connected to PURPLE / White at Brake switch, is this the right place?

Tachometer, do I need it? the 2008 Ford escape has Factory anti-grind so I'm assuming I do not need to connect.


Thanks so much for looking, I would really appreciate the help and expertise of someone much more qualified than myself!




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1998 Acura TL 2.5

Found 2 problems already
Need to connect black ground to a ground
And disconnect yellow from pink its not needed

you really dont need to hook up horn. also use the negative parking light wire at headlight switch getting positive wire is harder then it sounds there are numerous wires in drivers kick panel that are that color

brake wire is at the correct place

you dont need tach just set it for voltage sense and it will work fine just set crank time at liek 4 sec or something will guarantee it starts

also dont forget to ground the NSS wire BLACK/ white

Hood Pin switch should be connected.  It is a nice safety feature.   

While I am not a big XpressKit user, I believe you will also need to connect the following wires on the PKALL ( D2D only supplies the power and ground )  :
PKALL Pink Ignition wire to the 4103 heavy Pink wire ( that also connects to the Escapes IGN1 wire )
PKALL Blue/White (-) When Running wire to the  4103 Blue Status Output wire on the 4 Pin Satellite harness.

And last but not least, you will need two, unique, non-clone keys to program the bypass module to the vehicle.

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Soldering is fun!

Thanks for all the help. I have encountered 2 problems.

1. The car starts for about ten seconds, then turns off and retries to start a couple seconds later.
2. The Heat also doesn't come on. (or cold air for that matter)


These are my current connections
H1/1 Light GREEN/ Black     Factory Alarm Disarm  Not Connected (N.C.)
H1/2 GREEN / WHITE Factory Rearm       NC
H1/3 Yellow        Ignition out to Alarm  NC
H1/4 WHITE/ Blue   Activation Input Not Connected     
H1/5 Orange       Ground when Locked  Not Connected
H1/6 Brown  Horn Output   Connected to Brown Wire at Ignition Harness
H1/7 RED / White     Trunk Output   Not Connected
H1/8 Black  Ground Connected to common Ground    
H1/9 WhiteLights (+)   connected to VIO/WHT Drivers kick panel

Heavy Gauge Relay
Pink      Ignition circuit wired to WHITE/ Orange cable
Purple   Starter Circuit wired to Blue/White cable
Orange Accessory Circuit wired to Violet/Green
Red 12v wired to Blue/Red
Pink/White NOT CONNECTED
Red 12v wired to Blue/Red

****NOTE******
The two red 12V wires are wired to the same Blue/Red cable. Should this be a problem?

PKALL Connections

PKALL Pink Ignition wire to the 4103 heavy Pink wire ( that also connects to the Escapes IGN1 wire ) ? I connect to the heavy pink wire and what other wire?

connected blue/white pkall to status blue/white

Thanks again to those who replied! I'm excited to get this thing working.



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1998 Acura TL 2.5

try setting unit for virtual tach and learning it. its either shutting down from tach signal or the bypass isnt wired correctly

If the Blue/Red +12V constant wire that both 4103 Red wires are connected to is thin gauge, I would move them to the
YELLOW/RED (+) (125AMP) wire @ SMART JUNCTION BOX BLACK 1-PIN PLUG.

The PKALL Pink wire connects to the 4103 heavy Pink Ignition1 wire that continues to the Escapes WHITE/ Orange Ignition
wire.

Running an actual Tach wire connection and programming the 4103 for Tach Mode is the most consistantly reliable way
to control a remote start-up.   Here is some Tach wire info :
 TACH   Any wire NOT BLUE (AC)    @ Any FUEL INJECTOR
 Tachometer    grn/blu, gry/yel, pur/gry, yel/org, brn, or grn/wh (ac)     @ any fuel injector, 2 pin plug, pin 1

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Soldering is fun!

You will need to remove the center console to access the heavy gauge yellow/red 12v wire @ the smart junction box.

First thing, pry up the chrome piece around the shifter know. Work it evenly from side to side.
Next remove the screws on the side of the console, one at the back and I think two at the front (same for both sides).
Next you will need to access two screws at the front of the console. To get to those, I believe it's the trim for the usb/ 12v socket that needs to be removed then disconnect connectors behind it. Now you should have access to the 2 screws holding the center column.
I don't recall any screws inside the center column box but remove if there are.
I think that should be all the screws.
Now the center column should come out easily, be sure to watch out for any harness plugged to the center column.
The smart junction box is now visible on the floor facing the passenger side.


Tip for soldering to

Tip for soldering to the heavy gauge yellow/red 12v wire. Use a mini soldering torch. Get a piece of hard paper/card board and wrap it in foil, you can use that as a heat/flame shield to protect everything else. Don't let the wire get too hot for too long.

I've removed the center console with no issue, but looking for the Black 1 pin plug Yellow/Red 12v.

I found the yellow/red 7 pin plug but assume this is not it.
Thanks!

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1998 Acura TL 2.5

rockytop3 wrote:

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I've removed the center console with no issue, but looking for the Black 1 pin plug Yellow/Red 12v.

I found the yellow/red 7 pin plug but assume this is not it.
Thanks!

---

Connected to Yellow/Red wire I described above, now LED light will not come on RS, nor with remotes interact with it.

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1998 Acura TL 2.5

I really hope you are using a DMM to get measurements and just not going by wire colors...

The Yellow/Red you are looking for is on the upper passenger side of the center console, it has a red locking connector on it.  It's covered in loom and runs almost directly under where your fuses are located. Should be easy to find considering it's huge and it's a single wire on a single connector.

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   X2 with all.    125 Amp wire is very thick......

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Soldering is fun!

I've made my two pink 12v wire connect with the 125 amp wire.
I seem to have all my connections correctly made.
I then programed the RS for a 2.0 sec cranktime.

Trying to Remote Start the car, the gauges wiggle, the car will almost start, but then do nothing.

I'm starting to wonder whether I should have left this to the professionals, but alas. If you all have any suggestions for me I'd gladly take them.


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1998 Acura TL 2.5

Did you program the PKALL exactly how the instructions say? Were there any issues when programming? Try remote starting it with the key in the ignition and see if it starts.

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Kenny
Owner / Technician
KKD Garage LLC
Albany, NY 12205

rockytop3 wrote:

---

I've made my two pink 12v wire connect with the 125 amp wire.
I seem to have all my connections correctly made.
I then programed the RS for a 2.0 sec cranktime.

Trying to Remote Start the car, the gauges wiggle, the car will almost start, but then do nothing.

I'm starting to wonder whether I should have left this to the professionals, but alas. If you all have any suggestions for me I'd gladly take them.

---

That pretty much tells us nothing.

Does everything power up and it cranks but doesn't start?  Or does nothing even power up (dash light wise)? Did the bypass program correctly? It should atleast still power everything up, maybe even attempt to crank over and then throw the security light (flashing red light on dash or cluster) if it was a bypass issue..The 4103 will not work through D2D, you either need to hardwire your 12v and ground off the PKALL or cut the power and ground on the D2D wire and hardwire those to power and ground.

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And crank time won't matter unless you turn engine checking off, your best bet is going to be to hardwire and learn a tach signal. 

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Everything powers up and it cranks but then it just seems to stall. Upon turning the key off and taking it out the gauges still pulsate.

Should I just reprogram the bypass and RS?

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1998 Acura TL 2.5

Have you tried starting it with the key in the ignition yet? Where and how did you end up grounding everything?

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Kenny
Owner / Technician
KKD Garage LLC
Albany, NY 12205

buddholly wrote:

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rockytop3 wrote:

---

I've made my two pink 12v wire connect with the 125 amp wire.
I seem to have all my connections correctly made.
I then programed the RS for a 2.0 sec cranktime.

Trying to Remote Start the car, the gauges wiggle, the car will almost start, but then do nothing.

I'm starting to wonder whether I should have left this to the professionals, but alas. If you all have any suggestions for me I'd gladly take them.

---

That pretty much tells us nothing.

Does everything power up and it cranks but doesn't start?  Or does nothing even power up (dash light wise)? Did the bypass program correctly? It should atleast still power everything up, maybe even attempt to crank over and then throw the security light (flashing red light on dash or cluster) if it was a bypass issue..The 4103 will not work through D2D, you either need to hardwire your 12v and ground off the PKALL or cut the power and ground on the D2D wire and hardwire those to power and ground.

---

the red security light is not flashing but the Yellow engine light is now on. Trying to just start the key with the key fails. Even with the RS wire harness disengaged.

My next task is to hardwire PKALL power and ground wires.

Are these the correct connections?
PKALL power to RED / Blue 12v in kick plate
PKALL ground to common ground

Thanks-

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1998 Acura TL 2.5

Hold on. Are you saying that it won't start even with the key? If so then you need to stop making random connections until you can get it running with the key again. Did you test all of the wires you connected to originally or did you just assume? Where did you connect the ground of the remote start unit?

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Kenny
Owner / Technician
KKD Garage LLC
Albany, NY 12205

Will not start with just the Key. I connected the ground to a self tapping screw and washer under the steering wheel. I pretty much just assumed they were the right wires.

I didn't unplug the battery when working with the 125 amp getting a spark. I then disconnected the battery and connected my red 12v to it.

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1998 Acura TL 2.5

My apologies, I've just been scribbling out my thoughts and pushing enter.

When I was cutting away the shell around the Yellow 125 amp wire, I I didn't disengage the battery and created a spark. Could this have shorted the system or somehow damaged the vehicle?
Currently the car will not start with just the key. It will turn on (lights, security, radio, A/C) but the engine will not engage. I'm freaking out a little bit as this is my main vehicle of transportation.



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1998 Acura TL 2.5

You probably blew a fuse somewhere. NEVER connect anything without testing. This time might just be a fuse, but next time could be sensitive electronics that cost hundreds and sometimes a couple thousand dollars to replace. It's not worth the chance.

If it is just a fuse, it's going to be a large fuse (125 amp)... and that had to be one hell of a spark at 125 amps. Look in the under hood fuse box first and check all of the fuses (large and small) with a multi-meter (not just visually). If those all check out ok, then check all of the interior fuse box fuses.

If all fuses turn out ok then you will have to have someone help you by turning the vehicle ignition to 'start' while you listen / feel for a click in the starter relay (under hood fuse box; check owners manual for exact location).



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Kenny
Owner / Technician
KKD Garage LLC
Albany, NY 12205

offroadzj wrote:

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You probably blew a fuse somewhere. NEVER connect anything without testing. This time might just be a fuse, but next time could be sensitive electronics that cost hundreds and sometimes a couple thousand dollars to replace. It's not worth the chance.

If it is just a fuse, it's going to be a large fuse (125 amp)... and that had to be one hell of a spark at 125 amps. Look in the under hood fuse box first and check all of the fuses (large and small) with a multi-meter (not just visually). If those all check out ok, then check all of the interior fuse box fuses.

If all fuses turn out ok then you will have to have someone help you by turning the vehicle ignition to 'start' while you listen / feel for a click in the starter relay (under hood fuse box; check owners manual for exact location).

---

It was a hell of a spark. You say check the fuses, if they all check out then what do I do?
I listen for the click in the Starter Relay then...
There's not really a breaker that I can just flip is there? That'd be too easy.




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1998 Acura TL 2.5

rockytop3 wrote:

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[snip]I've made my two pink 12v wire connect with the 125 amp wire. [/snip]

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The pink wires should be ignition NOT 12v Shouldn't they? Not sure if that was a typo or I am incorrect. Could be either

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To master and control electricity is perfection. *evil laugh*

Ah yes, The 12v are Red. My apologies.


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1998 Acura TL 2.5

Oh there may be a "fuse assembly" located on the battery cable itself. Right next to the battery post. Hopefully it is removable. I have had to replace entire battery cables after blowing those big ones. Helluva spark/light show when you pop one by accident. Had to replace my pants along with the cables.

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To master and control electricity is perfection. *evil laugh*