viper 5904 and chrysler 300

Ok my peeps, I am having an issue with the remote start. I connected everything that needed to be connected but I cannot get into programming mode to switch to automatic. I open the door, put the key in and turn it to on, then turn to off and press the control center button but no chirps or anything from the alarm system. When the system is disarmed the control center does nothing. It works just fine with chirps and all when arming or disarming. I can start my car with the key but I can also start it when the system is armed too. Crazy!!! I had to disconnect the wire going to + parking lights because it caused the lights to stay on and not turn off. I connected this D2D with a DBALL and I flashed it with the correct and updated firmware. Tell me what I may have done wrong.

Aarghhh!

Try putting the H2/6 Green (-) to ground. Maybe the D2D is not picking up the door trigger.

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I tried that for about 5 minutes. Maybe I didn't let stay grounded long enough. I gave up when it didn't work. Should I just leave it grounded forever? Could it be something in the programming options on the dball?

You have the wrong door trigger wire connected.
You have a poor ground.
Check either or both above, voltage between H1/1 and H1/2.
This is the second one of these today.

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Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

Ok, I will check those tomorrow, it's super cold and dark outside. You stated that I could have connected the wrong door trigger but I didn't connect it because I used D2D with the dball. I tried grounding H2/6 but it didn't do anything. I also removed the fuse from H1/1 for about 5 minutes also. I will check the ground though maybe it's a weak connection.

Wrong software?
Wire it W2W, DB-ALL doesn't want to work when wired D2D, it's unreliable and how can you check anything?

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Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

I did two UK GM cars last month different models, one year apart both with DB-ALL wired D2D, same electrics, wire colours, positioning etc.
I had to rip one apart and go W2W AND hardwire, I bet it isn't recognising the door trigger.

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Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

Ok I will wire it W2W and let you know what happens. Thanks howie!

What year is the Chrysler?

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Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

2006

2006

purple driver kick or instrument cluster, white 26 pin plug, pin 3
PURPLE / white pass kick or instr cluster, white 26 pin plug, pin 16
PURPLE / grey driver kick or instr cluster, grey 26 pin plug, pin 10
purple / YELLOW pass kick or instr cluster, grey 26 pin plug, pin 9
Join together with 4 x 1N4004 diodes, bands towards doors then connect to green at H2/6.






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Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

got it, thanks howie!!!

Okay peeps,

I have connected everything W2W and I am still having the same issue: I cannot get into the programming using the control center. Also, I connected the door triggers as suggested by howieII but I still cannot get in. I tested the door pins one by one by lowering the windows, arming the alarm, and then unlocking by hand and opening the door. The key fob reports that a door pin has been triggered and the alarm sounds. I have also cut the neutral safety switch, tied the two wires together and grounded it. The problem still remains though, I cannot get in to change the transmission from manual to automatic. The control center blinks three times indicating what zone was triggered and putting the key in and turning on the ignition does not clear the zone alert; still blinking. BTW, I tested all of the connections with a meter and there is also a strong ground connection. Maybe I should purchase a bitwriter and get it over with. Let me know what you guys think.

After you turn the ignition on then off, are you pressing AND holding the control center button until you get the chirps?? 1chirp...2 chirps...then 3 chirps.    If you are just pressing and releasing, you are not going anywhere in the menus.

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Yep, I hold the button for at least 20 secs before I say eefff it!

My next thing to try is swap the antenna (control center), if you have a spare one on hand. Swap the antenna cable, swap the brain. One item at a time to see if one of the componets is defective.

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Ok, my car won't start now!!!. I disconnected the battery for a while but that didn't help. I hope I don't have to make a trip to the dealer. Any suggestions? Also, the dball is flashing orange meaning it does not detect the type of vehicle.

DB-ALL guide says to put a key in the ignition and turn it to ON. It might take up to 10 seconds. Maybe you have to reprogram the DB-ALL to the car again.

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Okay peeps,

Here is the situation: I originally wired my alarm d2d but couldn't get it to work correctly because of the dball. I then snatched out everything and used w2w. Well, after connecting everything, my car wouldn't start but everything would light up on the dash like it should. I back-traced my steps and finally figured out what caused my car to not start; the neutral safety switch!!! This one wire blew my #8 fuse which is the Ignition/Run/Start Fuse. Do not connect this wire, you don't need it!!! Thanks for all of the help and I finally got everything working like it should!!!

Are you talking about the neutral safety switch input of the remote start? It should be connected to ground for an automatic transmission (as long as the vehicle has a factory safety lock-out to prevent it from starting in gear). What did you have the wire connected to in the vehicle?

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Kenny
Owner / Technician
KKD Garage LLC
Albany, NY 12205

I'm sorry, I meant the 2 wire on/off switch next to the main 6-pin harness. I had cut the switch and spliced the wires together and sent it to ground. Bad idea!!!

Not wire h2/2

Yea, those are only supposed to be connected together, not to a ground. I don't know whether the signal is + or -, but it's a open / closed loop through the switch.

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Kenny
Owner / Technician
KKD Garage LLC
Albany, NY 12205

Okay I used the bitwriter to "zap" the system to defaults so I could reprogram it like I wanted but now I cannot get the system to learn the remotes. I cannot get it to pair mode. The control center light is solid blue. I unplugged the entire system and let it sit for about 5 minutes, the light went out of course, plugged it back in and the light is still on and won't allow me to pair the remotes. Any suggestions or guidance would be helpful. Thanks!

Try turning the ignition on then off...then press and release the button on the control center once. That should turn off the LED.

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if by chance you locked the alarm with the bitwrier after programming, you need to unlock the alarm with the bitwriter be for it will go into transmitter learn routine.

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yuk
quiet rural missouri, near KC.
If your system moves you physically and not emotionally, you have wasted your money.

The bitwriter won't allow me to write to the system without a programmed transmitter. Is there another way?

Nope...Need to program a remote to the unit.

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I figured that smokeman1 that's why I was trying to figure out if there is something I can do to reset the brain. It won't allow me to get in and program a remote. It just keeps the control center light on. Side note: Last night I left it plugged in and when I went out this morning the light was off. I tried programming but no luck.

Did you try to turn the ignition on then off, then pressing the button on the control center to turn off the LED. Try it with the door open when you turn the ignition on/off. If that does not work, try with the door closed since I don't know if you have Pos or Neg door triggers.  The brain needs to see a door trigger and 12volts at the ignition 1 wire.

The LED went out after overnight because it went into a power saving mode.

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Are you sure you are doing the remote pairing procedures correctly?  I just paired a remote to a bench test unit I have, after I ZAPed it with my BitWriter. Paired up no problem.

You have to set the remote up to be paired and then set the brain up and then pair them. If not done correctly on both pieces, it will not work. 

Again the brain has to see a door trigger, Neg or Pos, and 12 volts on the Ignition 1 wire.

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Have you tried to pair the remotes by turning the ignition on, BUT don't turn it off, and then follow the pairing procedure?  It might be incorrect to turn the ignition on then off.

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Okay peeps, after having the unit tested at a friend's shop, it was discovered that the brain was defective. I am in the process of receiving another from DEI. I will let you know how that goes.

Update: DEI overnighted the new brain. Plugged it in and voila...we have success!!! Thanks peeps for all of your help and suggestions. Next add-ons will be window modules and 516L.