’05 hyundai accent tach

Hey guys, been a while since I last posted here.

I've been working on installing a remote start into a friend's 2005 Hyundai Accent and have been having issues finding the tach wire. I know that it is grey and connected to the ECU, but unfortunately there are a number of grey wires on the larger plug.

Does anyone have a good way of knowing which is correct and/or an alternative wiring setup for the tach?

Test it, either via a DMM or temp. connection to each grey and see if tach gets programmed.

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Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

That was going to be my brute force approach if no one had any other ideas. It's just that the wire harness is really difficult to get to and time consuming.

just go to injector

Too obvious and the assumption was that the installer wanted to connect inside, less trouble and probably longer lasting.

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Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

White or gray at any injector, or you can go behind the instrumant cluster and get the gray wire. It's in the corner of the plugs back there...

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Mike M2
Tech Manager
CS Dealer Services

I heard that for the 05 Accent that using an injector isn't so simple because one injector won't provide all the signal necessary. (just what I've read. Didn't want to strip wires based on that). I've also heard that the instrument cluster can be used, but that it isn't totally accurate.

I know those 3 things are really the only options.. Just trying to figure out the best approach or if someone has an idea of a known solution for the car.

That's OK with most DEI product, you can increase the tach sensitivity.
I'd go with Mike's suggestion ref. the instrument gauges, you've probably got room to mount the R/S brain there as well.

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Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

That sounds like a good idea. I noticed while I was in there that the radiator had sprung a leak too. So I'm waiting for that this weekend and then I'll give all this a shot.

Thanks again everyone. I've had nothing but great experiences with this site. When I don't post, I still use it as a strong resource.

Oh, one other thing I'd like to ask. While I'm going to probably go at the instrument cluster, if I were to brute force which grey wire was the tach at the ECU, what kind of voltage signal would I see when the car ignition off/on/starting/started?

The last remote start I installed didn't require the tach and was able to be programmed without it. Apparently "all" Audiovox systems have that option, but this one does not seem to. Have tried what they state to do multiple times and get no response. They also say to use a button that I do not have...Oh well.

A/Vox are somewhat vague on their instructions, even for a pro.
the last one I did had different colours on the loom to both the enclosed manual and the download version, went to the pin positions and hoped.
Unless data, your tacho should either have 3 or 4 connections. Trace the tracks back to the plug.
Ignition 12V+
Ground.
Tach.
Illumination, probably through an obvious bulb so ignore.
Simply your DMM set to 20VDC will eliminate 12v+ ign and ground leaving you the tach, trace that back to the plug.
Alternatively, with engine running at idle DMM to 20VAC, red to suspect wire and black to ground, should give between 2 and 8 VAC, increasing slightly as you rev up.

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Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

Thanks so much for the numbers. To be clear, are you referring to the instrument cluster wires here?

Yes but I would still look for the wire that Mike mentioned.
The reason being that many modern instrument panels post 98 are processors in themselves and if you have less that say 10 wires feeding that panel you can almost guarantee that it's data, CAN etc and there's nothing for you to pick up.

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Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

Thanks. I really appreciate all the info. I had read that going to the cluster itself wasn't accurate so that could be a sign. Unfortunately it also said that tapping one injector doesn't give an accurate reading either.

Would those voltages you mentioned be correct down at the ECM if I were to continue looking for the correct grey wire there?

Yes, having said that I've NEVER had problems with taking the tach from ANY of those places.

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Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

Well thank you again for all the input. Hopefully I'll get a chance to tackle this this weekend. I'll give feedback on whether or not I was successful then :)

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Mike M2
Tech Manager
CS Dealer Services

That's awesome Mike! I'll go ahead and give that a shot this weekend.