where to hide alarm cpu?

Where should I hide the main cpu in a 97 civic ex.  Behind the center console where the radio is or behind the gauges? Or any other suggestions?  And how would i go about mounting it.  Also... where should i put the dual proximity sensor(clifford intelliguard 8000 alarm)?  I dunno if i should put it in the center console or under the section close to my stick shift and armrest.  It says metal will interfere with it, and everywhere  i look there is metal.  E.G., my stick shift is metal, behind the console ther is also a bunch of metal.  The instructions tell me to mount it facing outward into the passenger compartment.  Does this mean i have to mount it vertically having it face out like this,

[]--> , or horizontally having it faced upward?  Oh yea, wher should i mount the siren in the engine compartment? Sorry for all the questions, hope you understand wut im asking, Any help will be appreciated, thanks.

I usually put it in behind the radio under the stereo. I know it's a pain to get at if you ever have to do repairs or re-wire something, but you know it will be safe from a thief.Mount the proximity sensor in the center console area because it is more in the center of the vehicle than the stick shift. Mount the unit vertically like this []--> and set the sensor accordingly. Mount the siren somewhere under wires and other things so it is not so easy to get at if the hood is ever opened.

Good help, thanks.  One more question, why must i mount the sensor to a metal surface when metal interferes with the sensor?

Some electronic devices are more sensitive to metal if the device is in direct contact with metal. Usually alarm manufacturer's give you a peice of velcro or double sided tape to put on the back side of the sensor to install on metal if necessary.

Not a problem and ost your results or more questions

Read the installation manual first before you decide to go any further. You need to know what wires your are attaching to where on the car and if you do not, I would suggest a professional installation. You have to have a small amount of experience in 12 volt electronics to be able to differentiate wire characteristics. Above is all the information that you need to be able to install any remote starter or alarm system to the 1997 Civic.

The perimter sensor has an eliptical shape to it, that is why it is important that the unit be installed close to the middle of the car. You can set the sensor to make the shape larger or smaller with the proper adjustments. If you have any problems along the way, just post your questions.

Another question.  On my honda civic, it says the door trigger wire is the light GREEN/ red wire close to the anti theft module.  It says that when the door trigger is pressed it should read 12 volts, however it does not.  When i press it the voltmeter reads nothing.  Is there sumthing wrong? Or is there sum other wire.  Just to make sure, the door trigger is the unlock lock button rite?

All Honda vehicles have a negative door lock trigger. To verify this the target wire should register ground when any door is open and registers 12 volts when doors are closed. You may not have the proper wire for the door.  The door trigger is it's own separate circuit from the lock/inlock wires, do not get these two citcuits confused as they will have their own separate wires to attach to on the alarm / remote starter.

black and white is usually the crank wire.

be sure to hide that siren and its supply wire as far out of sight as possible, and dont forget  water and  heat from the engine are bad for most sirens.

There is a BROWN connector that the main ignition wires go to from the key cylinder. Unplug this from the side of the driver kick panel and try to start the car after this, you should not be able to. The starter wire for all Honda's is BLACK/ WHITE unless you have a modified or altered Civic.

But shouldn't the engine not even crank w/o taking the brown connector out? Wut could be wrong? The instructions told me to cut the ignition wire that keeps the car goin, i cut that and the car shutdown, and then i cut the starter wire (BLACK/ white) and it said the engine should not even crank, however it still does.  So i went ahead and cut the yellow wire, and still it cranks.  I need to find wut wire stops the engine from cranking to be able to connect it to the alarm. 

With the BROWN plug unplugged the car CAN NOT Start, therefore the starter wire is in this set of 6 wires. Does the car still start with the BROWN plug unplugged ?

Solder the wires back together for a headache free patch job. As for the two brown connectors, disconnect one and try to start the car. If the car still starts with one pulled out, then unplug the other one and plug the one that you took out . If the car still starts, unplug the two brown connectors and test the starter. Before you cut anything else, test with a DMM or a light tester the BLACK/ WHITE wire for this:

• target wire should have 12 volts ONLY in the CRANK position and no power in the ON or ACCESSORY positions.

For rpm monitoring, i read on the diagram that you connect the wire to the tach wire, and also to the (-) ignition coil, which wire is the ignition coil ?  Heres a link to the diagram, its on page 3 https://www.clifford.com/guides/igs/intelliguard8000_install.pdf .  Whats a tip on how to connect one wire to two?  And just wondering, have you ever connected all the wires to an alarm and upon testing it out for the first time, you find out it doesn work?  Thats what im scared of b/c there are so many wires and it would be a pain if that happens.

in addition, for the prox sensor, it says it has to be mounted on to a metal surface, does that metal surface have to connect to the car frame?  Or, can i just take a small metal sheet and mount it anywhere.

You want to attach the BLACK/ GRAY wire to the tach wire on the car.The ignition coil is where you find the TACH wire on some vehicles. Look on my post where I have listed all the wires and their locations and the tach's location is descibed there. Don't worry about the alarm not working on the first try, that's where trial and error comes into play and it will take some time but you will learn alot in the process.

Mounting the prox sensor on a metal surface is mentioned only because they want the surface to be secure and not a peice of flimxy plastic. The tach wire is a BLUE wire NOT in the brown harness under the dash. You can't miss the 2 wire plug by the firewall on the driver side.

There should be blank  firewall plugs near the battery ( you will have to take the battery out ) or look for other blank black discs on the firwall. Take them out and drill a small hole into them and pass your wires through these discs. 

last questions and im probably done.  Is it better if i connected all of the power to the constant 12 volt wire inside the car or directly to the battery?  If i do it to the battery, wont it be easy for thieves just to snip the alarm wire?  I think it would be kinda hard to open up the (+) battery wire loom and run in my alarm wire.  I would rather connect it to the inside constant 12 volt wire. 

For the drilling part, do i just drill the plug or will i have to drill through the metal wall too?

Also, installing my alarm i think i've noticed how easy it is to bypass my starter kill.  Wouldn't all they have to do is cut the alarm wires and reconnect the ignition wires?  I'm trying to disguise and hide my alarm wires as good as possible but i still think its too easy since my alarm wires run into the ignition wires in a T shape.  I've avoided connecting the wires close to the harness and ignition switch, is that a good idea?

And last, wut kinda battery should i get for backup on my alarm and siren?

oh yea, i think ive asked this question before but where exactly should i mount my siren?  Please give me a good location. Thanks

If a thief is to snip the battery cable, it doesn't really matter if you have the alarm hooked up to the inside of the car or the battery cause the power will be lost either way unless you have a back up battery. Just make sure that you use split tube looming to hide all visible colored wires to get that factory look.

You will only need to drill into the plug. The plug will be a rubber disc or plastic and if there are no spare plugs then you will have to drill a hole or go through the steering wheel boot. The wires for the ignition are usually behind and up in the dash area. A thief will not bother trying to find these wires rather they would try to disable the siren or cut the main battery instead ( I would ). It's still a good idea to blend the alarm wires into the factory wires incase someone had the time to look under the dash and see what wires are for the alarm and which are not.

The back up battery should be a dry cell and should not be very large because you want to be able to hide it in a small space , yet still be able to access it. Try to mount the siren in a spot where it will be hard for a thief to get a hold of it and be able to pull it out. Have the siren mounted with the opening facing down so it won't act as a bird bath if you end up driving through rain.

The reason i was asking that is because he could snip just the alarm wire from the battery, and still have power to run the car.  If he cut the battery wire wouldnt he be stuck with a powerless car?  So is it recommended that i connect it directly to the battery? Oh yea, and wut is a recommended place to ground all my wires?

well the idea is that you hide the siren supply wire so well that the thief cannot figure out which wires to cut. thats why i said make sure  you hide the wire /siren well. I think that the ideal installation should have atleast 2  well hidden backup sirens. I have 3 fitted to my van and an internal strobe siren for good measure. but i must admit i sleep better with  the Infared cctv system doing the night shift. 

My center console is pretty small and has a bunch of metal bars in it and my head unit is metal too.  Wouldn't that interfere with my proximity sensor?  .  Any other suggestions of where i should put it?

Have you tried placing it there. The proximity sensors is microwave based so it will pass through the metal with ease. The center console area should be sufficient for any type proximity sensor.

For the light, maybe the light bulb burned out. Check it to see if this is the case.

Check to see if the pin switch is sticking and also verifiy that the signal is going from the pin switch to the light at the pin switch.